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HELP!! SSR smoked in middle of boil. Overide options?

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I have bought new Crydom's for less than $10. If you are patient, you can get great deals on Ebay. Surplus, old stock, etc. I bought some for spares that looked about 20 years old but were still "new in the box". I have never used them because I have never had one go bad. When you think about it, these industrial components are made for 24/7 use - I use mine for 6-8 hours a month. I will likely croak before my SSRs...
 
I thought they dont fake the Crydoms which is why I bought them.

The one I received already came in a white box. The box is in perfect condition but has that old,been sitting around look to it.

Good point on the other 2 being sealed in a bag. I might call Crydom just for the heck of it to see if they ever sold them like that.

The seller has over 7000 reviews with 100% positive feedback. That's pretty good and puts my mind at ease a bit. Of course if they are fake he might not even know...which brings me back to I thought Crydoms are not faked
 
So my new crydom D2440 is all hooked up and working flawlessly...hopefully it stays that way.

I went to HF to pick up the ratcheting crimpers...Theres a void in the center by design and I wasn't sure if after it was fully compressed it would crimp tight enough. So Right next to those was this pair..cant tell in the pic but there like 8" long so you can get some leverage on the crimp. I figured all I'm doing is 2 ends and not needing a major tool....I goota say for crimping the ends they worked great...nice flat solid crimps...The tool itself is mighty low quality but as a crimper it works perfect.

So I walked out of HF with this tool AND my FREE multi purpose screwdriver with ANY purchase for a whopping $1.78 total...No complaints

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...0.html&usg=AFQjCNGbzGf2wz4FnF2-UkEspMHHPMLT3A
 
Thats the cheapy set I have but the handles broke or fell off making it hurt to crimp lol.... Im actually buying the ratcheting ones next time im there... They do work a lot better even though the ones you got are a step up from pliers for sure.
 
So my new crydom D2440 is all hooked up and working flawlessly...hopefully it stays that way.

I went to HF to pick up the ratcheting crimpers...Theres a void in the center by design and I wasn't sure if after it was fully compressed it would crimp tight enough. So Right next to those was this pair..cant tell in the pic but there like 8" long so you can get some leverage on the crimp. I figured all I'm doing is 2 ends and not needing a major tool....I goota say for crimping the ends they worked great...nice flat solid crimps...The tool itself is mighty low quality but as a crimper it works perfect.

So I walked out of HF with this tool AND my FREE multi purpose screwdriver with ANY purchase for a whopping $1.78 total...No complaints

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...0.html&usg=AFQjCNGbzGf2wz4FnF2-UkEspMHHPMLT3A


The goal of crimping is the right geometry and force to create proper long-term contact, not maximum leverage. When you buy a tool with a proper die, the engineering has been done for you. When you buy a $2 tool you will get a non-engineered POS. Not saying their other crimper is better, but I do know this is not a tool you should be using. You have already had a meltdown... why risk another one? An electrical box fire is no joke.
 
So my new crydom D2440 is all hooked up and working flawlessly...hopefully it stays that way.

I went to HF to pick up the ratcheting crimpers...Theres a void in the center by design and I wasn't sure if after it was fully compressed it would crimp tight enough. So Right next to those was this pair..cant tell in the pic but there like 8" long so you can get some leverage on the crimp. I figured all I'm doing is 2 ends and not needing a major tool....I goota say for crimping the ends they worked great...nice flat solid crimps...The tool itself is mighty low quality but as a crimper it works perfect.

So I walked out of HF with this tool AND my FREE multi purpose screwdriver with ANY purchase for a whopping $1.78 total...No complaints

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...0.html&usg=AFQjCNGbzGf2wz4FnF2-UkEspMHHPMLT3A

That's the tool I used to crimp the fastons in my box. Then, I did have a box fire :( Bad crimp, burned up one end of one corner of one of my crydom D4440D dual SSR. Get the ratcheting crimpers next time.

On a side note, I sat down with the crydom rep yesterday. My next box will have wireless (PCB Mount) 40A SSRs. More on that later.
 
The goal of crimping is the right geometry and force to create proper long-term contact, not maximum leverage. When you buy a tool with a proper die, the engineering has been done for you. When you buy a $2 tool you will get a non-engineered POS. Not saying their other crimper is better, but I do know this is not a tool you should be using. You have already had a meltdown... why risk another one? An electrical box fire is no joke.

While I do actually agree here I though it important to point out that same simple crimper design is sold at any autoparts store or hardware store and even sears and has been for many years..it came with a lot of kits too. like I stated earlier my dad had a lot of pairs laying around when I was a kid (even American made ones) long before the NAFTA days where everythings from china or harbor freight even existed... They might suck compared to the professional style ones but they can work ok .. I usually crimp twice with them to ensure a larger crimped surface area because I shared the concerns you mention...

Still I agree they are not very ideal and suggested the better design which are a clone of a more expensive brand and would have worked a lot easier and likely done a better job. And If one wants to take the moral high ground find the company that designed them and pay top dollar for the R&D and marketing that went into them then thats even better I guess but for something as simple as this I have my doubts that the HF ratcheting ones wouldnt work just as well.
 
Angie,

The HF ratcheting crimper is junk. I bought one a couple of years ago to do some boat re-wiring. Despite trying to adjust it the crimps it made would not pass the pull test. Racked it up to a bad tool purchase.
 
The goal of crimping is the right geometry and force to create proper long-term contact, not maximum leverage. When you buy a tool with a proper die, the engineering has been done for you. When you buy a $2 tool you will get a non-engineered POS. Not saying their other crimper is better, but I do know this is not a tool you should be using. You have already had a meltdown... why risk another one? An electrical box fire is no joke.
I appreciate all the help but this is over doing it for a simple crimp.
After swapping out the old SSR and having the wires in my hand the crimps were as tight as the day I built the box years ago...Zero wiggle and passed the pull test.
My issue was either a bad SSR or quite possibly a loose screw. With the Fotek design the screw lugs are recessed making it more difficult to see whats going one...Not that its brain surgery to hit it with a screwdriver every once in a while I just never did.
The Crydom has a much better design with the screws on top. Its easier to see that nothing is holding up a tight connection.
In an ongoing thread someone mentioned the fact that ssr's get hot and cold continuously the connections can become loose over time.
Like auggie pointed out they sell these tools at every hardware store,auto store and electrical store across the nation. There woud be law suits everywhere and no longer being sold if they didn't work. After using the little wire stipper/crimper tool with the spring that everyone has used at some point I will say this larger one with more leverage made for a better/easier crimp. Would I use this thing out in the field on a daily basis, not a chance.
But for one single crimp.I'm perfectly content and feeling safe with my $2 POS crimp tool..and crimp

If it lets go Ill eat my words but I don't see it happening

20170316_110018_resized.jpg
 
Angie,

The HF ratcheting crimper is junk. I bought one a couple of years ago to do some boat re-wiring. Despite trying to adjust it the crimps it made would not pass the pull test. Racked it up to a bad tool purchase.
That was what I meant when I said the space looked to big fully compressed...didn't seem like it would hold a crimp
 
I appreciate all the help but this is over doing it for a simple crimp.

I think the discourse on crimping is valuable for our general membership. So while you are just doing one crimp, the other 1000 members reading this will learn something for when they are building theirs, and making 100+ crimps. The forum's a searchable knowledge base.
 
Do any of you guys have any idea of a vendor who sells real Foteks for sure? (Don't tell me to Google it, it's a black hole.) I wonder if the ones sold at "Sparkfun" are real.. they have ones that look like they are built for them, but the datasheet on their site is Fotek's.

I can't answer if sparkfun's fotek is real or not but I can say that I do like sparkfun, I'd trust the company enough to give the ssr a chance.
 
I appreciate all the help but this is over doing it for a simple crimp.

After swapping out the old SSR and having the wires in my hand the crimps were as tight as the day I built the box years ago...Zero wiggle and passed the pull test.

My issue was either a bad SSR or quite possibly a loose screw. With the Fotek design the screw lugs are recessed making it more difficult to see whats going one...Not that its brain surgery to hit it with a screwdriver every once in a while I just never did.

The Crydom has a much better design with the screws on top. Its easier to see that nothing is holding up a tight connection.

In an ongoing thread someone mentioned the fact that ssr's get hot and cold continuously the connections can become loose over time.

Like auggie pointed out they sell these tools at every hardware store,auto store and electrical store across the nation. There woud be law suits everywhere and no longer being sold if they didn't work. After using the little wire stipper/crimper tool with the spring that everyone has used at some point I will say this larger one with more leverage made for a better/easier crimp. Would I use this thing out in the field on a daily basis, not a chance.

But for one single crimp.I'm perfectly content and feeling safe with my $2 POS crimp tool..and crimp



If it lets go Ill eat my words but I don't see it happening


Not trying to call your baby ugly, just keep you from getting hurt!

That said, trim the screw! It's just begging to become a shorting post!
 
That said, trim the screw! It's just begging to become a shorting post!
I used to have a short screws below the top of the ssr but the design of ssr's with the "tunneled out" attachment area makes it so a deep socket or wrench doesn't fit in there. I had a nightmare getting the nut to set on the screw. And after changing out 6 ssr's I was ready to throw it across the room with my fat fingers( needle nose pliers were just as bad)
So I went with longer screws to make things easier.

I could have went a little shorter though...
 
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