Help me settle a bet - transferring wort to ferm buckets

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br1dge

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So me and my brew partner had a big brew day today making two 12G batches all-grain, and the suggestion was made by one of us (I will keep it neutral until we come to a conclusion as to who thought what,) to get more consistent beer while using 2 seperate fermentation buckets.

We brewed 12G in a keggle, then transferred it into to two 6.5G buckets. One of us thought it would be a good idea to install a tee or a wye out of the boil kettle so that we could drain the wort simultaneously into each bucket, thinking that we would get both the "bottom wort" and "top wort" equally distributed into the 2 buckets, as opposed to filling up one bucket then moving on to the next.

The side of the argument that said it wouldn't matter claimed that the sugar is equally "suspended," for lack of a better word, throughout all 12 gallons, so the wort at the bottom of the keggle is no different than the wort from the top, but at the same time acknowledged that the last bucket (assuming we drain one at a time,) would likely have more break in it, which may affect how the yeast reacted, assuming the break would provide nutrients for the yeast.

Recognizing it really probably doesn't make a sh*t, and both beers will be just fine, entertain us and let us know which side of the argument would you fall, assuming the goal was a really critical process to ensure consistency between the beer in each of the 2 fermentation buckets.


Jeff
 
The wort is homogenized by the rolling action of the boil...there is no "top wort" or "bottom wort." The break material and other trub can be strained through a 5gal paint strainer. I don't think you would get perfectly even flow through a tee anyway. Just stir the **** out of it, siphon through a paint strainer, and pitch your yeast. There are far more factors to be concerned about than differences in wort split between 2 buckets!!!

Or you could forget everything I just said and conduct a split batch experiment...

:mug:
 
well if you are concerned, you could also fill one to 3 gallons (off the bottom) then fill the otehr to 6 gallons (off the middle) and the 1st the rest of the way to 6 gallons (adding 3 more gallons) off the top...
But I'm inclined to agreewith TANSTAAFB that if you have a rolling boil going shortly before hand, you will have everything mixed. While a little bitt of dense bottom and light top will occur over time (if kept sanatized etc) but it takes time to seperate like that, probably several hours before you'd even begin to notice it
 
I'm on the side of it doesn't matter. The boil should have mixed the wort and the tee wouldn't make a hill of beans difference.
 
The important stuff (sugars, hop oils, etc.) is dissolved and will be evenly distributed. The solid trub will not be so if you strain it the two buckets should be the same.
 
cf. "TANSTAAFB"s post: beer coming off the boil / chill will be completely homogeneous. Doing as is described in the OP will be a waste of time.
 
I do 10 to 12 gal. batches as well and just fill each bucket/carboy one at a time. I haven't had any difference between gravity readings and no noticeable difference in color or taste (of the gravity samples). I do, however, blend the beers when I keg, just to be sure of consistent taste. e.g. Fill 2 kegs 1/2 full each from one bucket then top kegs off with the other bucket. Side note: Just ordered a 15 gal. conical yesterday, so no more blending! :)
 
if fill the fermenters when the wort is hot, i would say that there is no difference.

...BUT, if you use extract, and use a chiller to cool the wort in the pot, i think it is totally possible that some of the extract would settle toward the bottom during cooling, and the first bucket would have a higher OG.
 
A third option: blend them back together prior to bottling/kegging if you are worried they will be significantly different?
 
The sugar is dissolved not suspended, there will be no difference. The only difference would be the actual suspended stuff like break material and hops.
 
Wellll, I "no-chill". I used to brew 11 gal batches and split them between 2 fermenters. For whatever reason (dry yeast, break, trub, etc...), I got different readings on 2 batches. I now ferment in a Sanke, split it in 5 gal batches for carbonation, no problems.
 
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