Help me decide between Spike CF10 and SSBrewtech Unitank

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Just a quick post. Most of the posts here are pretty spot on. I just received my Spike CF10 today. ive spent the day cleaning and assembling etc. I also have a SS BME Chronical (14 gallon). While I havent had a chance to actually use the spike I will say compared to the BME its a step up in quality. I cannot speak to the unitank which is definitely a better comparison. Ive had my BME for years now. its never failed me and is a quality piece of equipment that is miles above a bucket and has improved my beer considerably. In short, both of what I have I am very happy with and can find few flaws. The spike is just better built than the BME and I look forward to using it as a pressurized vessel. That said I also pressure push etc from my BME and with a little ingenuity you can use it for many of the benefits of the unis (not all of course). Ive accessed customer service with SS more than a few times and they are great. My Spike came with all the accessories I ordered (and there were more than a few) in just THREE DAYS. Much of it is simply gonna come down to personal choice honestly. The quality of both companies is very high.

I had the opportunity to communicate with an unbiased reviewer who compared Ss Uni with the Spike CF10 you just got. Their review was that the quality of both units was Neck and Neck, and they reviewed both tanks as high quality and well built. By that review I'm thinking Ss has possibly made some quality headway since your BME Chronical tank was produced. Maybe someone who has one of each of the current tanks can give a heads up.

BTW....congrats on your new tank!
 
Well the BME Chronical isn't the "high end" of SS so it fits a niche and its very well built for what it is. Mine has given me ZERO problems. I may have run some 2o batches through it. It stays FULL. I have zero plans to sell it and simply am adding a new fermenter to my brewery so they will both be in use full time. I wouldn't buy one now again, Id just get a uni because after all the accessories Id want for it Id spend as much as my spike cost (or a uni as there are similarly priced). So moving up to a uni/ cf10 would be my best option. Id have zero fear in buying a uni. I had already purchased the cooling coil for the CF10 last march to use in speidel and that's honestly why I went with it versus a uni. It would be a tough decision if I hadn't had it to be honest. hell I may have had to flip a coin.
 
Yeah, another HBT friend and I discussed "flipping a coin" between the two. Now that Spike has released their cooling coil and Temp Control package with heat option.....looking mighty good!
 
One thing I will say here, I can confirm the SSBT 14 gallon unitank can not properly cool a half batch, at least not with SSBT glycol chiller. I have done 3 straight 5 gallon batches and each time the lowest I could get to was around 38 f. This is in a room that has been between 55-60 f so really not looking forward to how it performs as it warms up. To stay around 38 the pump was pretty much running non stop and also ice formed on the top of the coil. Seeing the pics of the coil in the Spike, that looks like a better design. Love everything else about the SSBT tank, but just beware to either size to the size batch you are most likely to make or forget about a proper cold crash with chiller.
 
One thing I will say here, I can confirm the SSBT 14 gallon unitank can not properly cool a half batch, at least not with SSBT glycol chiller. I have done 3 straight 5 gallon batches and each time the lowest I could get to was around 38 f. This is in a room that has been between 55-60 f so really not looking forward to how it performs as it warms up. To stay around 38 the pump was pretty much running non stop and also ice formed on the top of the coil. Seeing the pics of the coil in the Spike, that looks like a better design. Love everything else about the SSBT tank, but just beware to either size to the size batch you are most likely to make or forget about a proper cold crash with chiller.

Are you using the coil extensions for your half batch’s? Can I ask why you need to crash below serving temps? 40 is perfectly fine for yeast drop.
 
One thing I will say here, I can confirm the SSBT 14 gallon unitank can not properly cool a half batch, at least not with SSBT glycol chiller. I have done 3 straight 5 gallon batches and each time the lowest I could get to was around 38 f. This is in a room that has been between 55-60 f so really not looking forward to how it performs as it warms up. To stay around 38 the pump was pretty much running non stop and also ice formed on the top of the coil. Seeing the pics of the coil in the Spike, that looks like a better design. Love everything else about the SSBT tank, but just beware to either size to the size batch you are most likely to make or forget about a proper cold crash with chiller.


I'm glad you reported this. I had previously talked with Ss about half batches in the 14G tank, and while they said it could be done with only 30-40% of the coil submerged into the wort, crashing could be questionable. They want to sell tanks of course so some of the answers are marketing driven, but I think your answer confirmed the same doubts I had myself. I ended up buying both 14G and 7G tanks for the appropriate sized batch as designed, and this removes all questions...albeit a more expensive option than one size fits all.

Some of the posts from Spike show sketches that illustrate their new conical/uni series which offers coils that extend deeper into the wort theoretically making it more feasible to do small batches in larger tanks.
 
I’m one of the earlier testers of the Spike CF10. I also own two Chronicals (7 and 14) that I use all the time and love (minus the weldless fittings) The Spike unit (even though it was a test unit) functioned flawlessly.

Two comments I will make on the Spike one:

1. The lid has its pros and cons.
Pros are that you can remove it and clean the interior of the conical without any issues and get a better clean.

The cons are: the damn lid seal. When you take the lid off after being compressed for so long, the seal tends to fall out of the lid as your lifting it or putting it back on, it can fall right into your wort. Simple fix is to “dimple” the channel where the seal sits in so it pinches the seal a bit to hold it in. The other con is the 2inch trub valve. This valve is a blessing and a curse. Blessing where you won’t get any clogs (yeast, hops, etc) but a curse where the wort comes out at a lot a faster pace if you’re not careful, you could lose a lot of wort.

Other then that, everything has worked great and you wouldn’t be disappointed with the Spike conical.

I can’t comment on the Ss brewtech Unitanks to compare it to. I was leaning on buying another Spike to replace the other 14 gallon Ss chronical I have, I really dislike the weldless fittings in the Ss Chronicals.
 
"Are you using the coil extensions for your half batch’s? Can I ask why you need to crash below serving temps? 40 is perfectly fine for yeast drop."

I am not sure what you mean by coil extensions. SSBT recommends getting down to as close as 32 as possible for cold crash and more importantly for carbing with the carb stone.

I actually reached out to them and they admitted it was an issue and they are working on possibly releasing a new coil at some point in the future to accommodate 1/2 batches but could not commit. Wish I knew that going in. I do a lot of 5 gallon batches.
 
"Are you using the coil extensions for your half batch’s? Can I ask why you need to crash below serving temps? 40 is perfectly fine for yeast drop."

I am not sure what you mean by coil extensions. SSBT recommends getting down to as close as 32 as possible for cold crash and more importantly for carbing with the carb stone.

I actually reached out to them and they admitted it was an issue and they are working on possibly releasing a new coil at some point in the future to accommodate 1/2 batches but could not commit. Wish I knew that going in. I do a lot of 5 gallon batches.

Dcpcooks is referencing an older SsBT system in which they offered two short extension pieces that could drop the coil lower. I had a set of these extensions for an older model Brew Bucket I started out with. These new Uni Tanks have no provisions for the extension system to be used, but I'll be interested to know that Ss is aware of this and making strides to make the system more universally user friendly.
 
I wonder first why you need to go below 38F. Second, it sounds like you are running the glycol chiller too cold. Keep it ~31F-32F and it should not ice up.
 
"Are you using the coil extensions for your half batch’s? Can I ask why you need to crash below serving temps? 40 is perfectly fine for yeast drop."

I am not sure what you mean by coil extensions. SSBT recommends getting down to as close as 32 as possible for cold crash and more importantly for carbing with the carb stone.

I actually reached out to them and they admitted it was an issue and they are working on possibly releasing a new coil at some point in the future to accommodate 1/2 batches but could not commit. Wish I knew that going in. I do a lot of 5 gallon batches.

I find that funny because I asked them about doing half batches before the unitank was released and I was told it wouldn't be a problem.
 
So I've been looking at both of these over the last several days and I'm leaning heavily towards the Spike CF15 uni, but the one thing that gives me some concern is that the Spike has the 4" TC fitting in the lid, another 1.5" fitting and then besides the dump port and raking port there are only two more TC fittings, one for the thermowell and one for the sample valve.

Ss gives you a lot more openings at the top, with two 1.5" TCs, a 3" TC, (which seems weird and oversized for a pressure relief valve) besides their huge 6" main opening at the top and then one extra opening on the cone that can be used for CO2.

I like those extra openings for possible modifications or future accessories.

Will spike add extra TC ports on a custom order basis? The downside would be that I'd have to cut my own ugly hole in the neoprene jacket, but I could live with that.
 
I don't know if they will modify it - given the pressure rating, etc. Ask and report back here. However, I have a couple of the Spikes and other than perhaps a carbonation port, what else would you want? Even the carbonation port is not necessary with their fitting. Less ports also means easier cleaning, btw.
 
I don't know if they will modify it - given the pressure rating, etc. Ask and report back here. However, I have a couple of the Spikes and other than perhaps a carbonation port, what else would you want? Even the carbonation port is not necessary with their fitting. Less ports also means easier cleaning, btw.
Good points, I just like options. I don't have any immediate plans for additional ports. With their manifold they do with one 1.5"TC port what it looks like it would take Ss Brewtech to do with 3, and one of those is a 3" port.

I will not be purchasing for some time. When I start getting serious I will contact them. Who know's, maybe there will be a whole different set of options 6-8 months from now.
 
I talked with spike about adding additional ports to the lid and they said they are currently not offering customizing to conicals.
 
Does anyone know if Spikes heater fits well on the SS Unitank? I need a heater and dont really want to have to MacGyver something to heat.
 
I find that funny because I asked them about doing half batches before the unitank was released and I was told it wouldn't be a problem.

This is what I received from SSBrew when I inquired about batch sizes in the Unitanks:


“Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely ferment whatever partial volume you want in the unitanks, but you are right about the restricted chilling capabilities.

Our Unitanks can be used to ferment a wide range of batch sizes but cooling and carbonating are pretty much limited to the operating capacity sized batches.

Min Batch size on 7 Gallon Unitank would be 4 gallons and was designed for 5-5.5 Gallons
Min Batch size on a 14 Gallon Unitank would be 8 - 8.5 gallons and was designed for 10-10.5 Gallon batches.
Min Batch size on a 1/2 BBL Unitank would be 11.5 - 12 gallons and was designed for 15.5 Gallon Batches.

These are the unitank's minimum batching recommendations for adequate cooling efficiencies”

In the end, I went with a Spike CF10. I already had a CF10 (pre-production unit, I was one of their testers) and I liked it enough to purchase an additional one to replace the SSBrew Chronicals I had. I’m not a big fan of weldless fittings inside a fermenter which is why I was looking to replace the Chronical.

Overall, I’m extremely happy with the Spike CF10, it’s built really well, cool goes way down into the cone of the fermenter for small batches and the price was on point for me. The support I received from Spike (I also own their kettles) has always been quick as well.

The unit to the left (blue handle valves) is the preproduction unit, there are a lot of welcome differences from that to the production one. On the production units, the legs were brought out further for a wider stance, the racking arm was brought up a little higher and ports were slightly moved around. Since the preproduction unit was never sold (only a few made), jackets were never made for it so I had to purchase a production jacket and make a few cuts in it to fit it so don’t judge the jacket fit on the preproduction unit. Also, I ran the wire for the temp probes inside the jackets to keep it neat, that’s the lump you see on the right side of the conical.
IMG_4507.jpg
 
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I have the cf15 and very happy with it. I also like that it can be bought in seperate pieces which could make it a better deal depending on what you need
 
I'd be inclined to say it would almost be mandatory for a person reviewing Ss against Spike to have one of each of the same size to compare accurately. I only have one brand (Ss) so I feel it would be terribly unfair for me to judge a Spike.

Of course we can look at specs such as pressure ratings and make some sort of a preference judgment from numbers alone. My best brewing buddy has a Spike so he and I compare pros and cons easily, but it truly isn't the same as running an Ss and a Spike side by side.

I made my final decision based on correspondence with an impartial professional reviewer who had one of each. I point blank asked him if he was buying one or the other which would he spend money on. He said it was a most difficult decision and he hated to guide me one way or the other. At the end of the day, if you dressed up a Spike like a Ss Uni comes standard, the price is neck and neck. Some choose Spike since the bells and whistles can be added a la carte avoiding the features you don't need. All said and done, it was ONE key feature that sold me on the Ss....lid design. I like the TC clamp system over the ring band system on the Spike. Other than that, I'd flip a coin.
 
I'd be inclined to say it would almost be mandatory for a person reviewing Ss against Spike to have one of each of the same size to compare accurately. I only have one brand (Ss) so I feel it would be terribly unfair for me to judge a Spike.

Of course we can look at specs such as pressure ratings and make some sort of a preference judgment from numbers alone. My best brewing buddy has a Spike so he and I compare pros and cons easily, but it truly isn't the same as running an Ss and a Spike side by side.

I made my final decision based on correspondence with an impartial professional reviewer who had one of each. I point blank asked him if he was buying one or the other which would he spend money on. He said it was a most difficult decision and he hated to guide me one way or the other. At the end of the day, if you dressed up a Spike like a Ss Uni comes standard, the price is neck and neck. Some choose Spike since the bells and whistles can be added a la carte avoiding the features you don't need. All said and done, it was ONE key feature that sold me on the Ss....lid design. I like the TC clamp system over the ring band system on the Spike. Other than that, I'd flip a coin.


I was concerned about the ring band, but, during my beta testing of the pre-production unit, I came to conclusion that I don't have to remove the band since the 4 inch TC at the top is perfectly fine for additions without disturbing the ring clamp. Also, with the CIP, I can still clean the Spike conical as you would be doing with the SSBrew Unitank. The only difference is that I have the luxury to remove the ring clamp in the event I need to give it a really good cleaning with some old fashioned elbow grease.
 
I was concerned about the ring band, but, during my beta testing of the pre-production unit, I came to conclusion that I don't have to remove the band since the 4 inch TC at the top is perfectly fine for additions without disturbing the ring clamp. Also, with the CIP, I can still clean the Spike conical as you would be doing with the SSBrew Unitank. The only difference is that I have the luxury to remove the ring clamp in the event I need to give it a really good cleaning with some old fashioned elbow grease.
I was just going to post the same thing. If the band clamp is a concern you can always just leave it on. Now it's the same as the SS just with the option to open if needed. I felt the SS stuff to be somewhat more novelty with the little sample port and cheesy digital temp gauge. I know there small unimportant details but it was still a odd choice on as part. I'm in Canada and the price difference is significant as well. 1250$ for the cf15 with all the extras and 1700 for the SS....... On top of that when I bought my cf15 it was 20% off on top of that. If I bought the SS I'd then also have to go the whole glycol setup also to make use of the coil I had to buy which for a single 18 gallons is way overkill and overly complicated I'm my opinion. Cheers
 
I was concerned about the ring band, but, during my beta testing of the pre-production unit, I came to conclusion that I don't have to remove the band since the 4 inch TC at the top is perfectly fine for additions without disturbing the ring clamp. Also, with the CIP, I can still clean the Spike conical as you would be doing with the SSBrew Unitank. The only difference is that I have the luxury to remove the ring clamp in the event I need to give it a really good cleaning with some old fashioned elbow grease.

I like the way that sounds. My only concern with leaving the lid in place and cleaning (only) with CIP and not breaking the lid and gasket down, is that nasties may hide in those crevices. Has that been an issue?

Honestly, I'd really like to have a Spike TOO!
 
I like the way that sounds. My only concern with leaving the lid in place and cleaning (only) with CIP and not breaking the lid and gasket down, is that nasties may hide in those crevices. Has that been an issue?

Honestly, I'd really like to have a Spike TOO!
I don't think it would be a issue as the cip ball is designed for that exact reason. It would defeat the purpose if you still had to remove the top as after its off it only takes a few min to clean by hand. I think after having the lid off and cleaning the first time you would prefer being able to remove the lid. That and the carb stone are my favorite parts of the unit. I immediately got rid off all my glass carboys and bought a few fermonsters for my secondary setup for the same reasons removable lid. Cheers
 
I don't think it would be a issue as the cip ball is designed for that exact reason. It would defeat the purpose if you still had to remove the top as after its off it only takes a few min to clean by hand. I think after having the lid off and cleaning the first time you would prefer being able to remove the lid. That and the carb stone are my favorite parts of the unit. I immediately got rid off all my glass carboys and bought a few fermonsters for my secondary setup for the same reasons removable lid. Cheers
The cip is only to clean the tank... Your still expected to remove and clean all seals and fittings manually. This is why CIP with a sprayball is almost more of a novelty at this size vs the larger conicals and tanks where manual cleaning is not as simple or quick. I do CIP... manually with a sponge while leaving the conical "in place"
 
The cip is only to clean the tank... Your still expected to remove and clean all seals and fittings manually. This is why CIP is almost more of a novelty at this size vs the larger conicals and tanks where manual cleaning is not as simple or quick.
Good point. I agree some of these accessories are oftan pointless for tanks on the homebrew scale. I hand clean mine and cool / heat it in a stand up 80$ freezer. No need to overcomplicate things on a small scale. Cheers
 
Good point. I agree some of these accessories are oftan pointless for tanks on the homebrew scale. I hand clean mine and cool / heat it in a stand up 80$ freezer. No need to overcomplicate things on a small scale. Cheers
I agree too but I respect that for some the whole engineering aspect of all this is more fun than actually making the beer... to each his or her own, I enjoy both aspects of the hobby and I dont mean to imply that all cip is a waste im sure there are setups and situations where it makes good sense too but faor as easy as it is to clean my 4 conicals I wouldnt even bother with the hardware for cip especially since I only use the internal coil in one conical..... now at the nanobrewery its another story... everything already purchased for cip. we are just waiting to find a mechanical engineer to put on paper that a coolbot with an ac unit is safe to run indoors for the inspector..
 
this is taken from spikes website



Here is the procedure for cleaning out your conical after fermentation is complete and you've racked out of the vessel

Attach the CIP Ball to the 1.5" TC port on the lid of your conical.

Attach a 1.5" TC x barb fitting to the CIP and 6 foot of silicone hosing

Attach a "vent" to the thermowell port using your 90 degree elbow 1.5" TC cap and another hose.

Run hot water through the hose/CIP ball and drain through the bottom port. Repeat 4-5 times till most loose material fall out

Attach a 2" TC x Barb fitting to the bottom port and 3 feet of silicone hosing to the barb

Add 2 oz of ABW to the conical and 1 gallon of hot water through the top 4" port, cap the 4" port or feel free to keep your coiling coil in there if you use one.

Attach both silicone hoses to a chugger pump and open the bottom port butterfly valve.

Turn on the pump. Allow the ABW solution to cycle through the CIP for 30 minutes

Remove the bottom port 2" TC barb fitting and drain PBW

Repeat step 3 till water is no longer slimy and conical is clean

Open all ports and rinse all ports with water. Allow to air dry


Be sure to sanitize the conical again before next use.



Seems the cip ball is actually designed to be used without removing the top. Again I don't use one and think's it's a waste of time but it's a option. Cheers
 
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I agree too but I respect that for some the whole engineering aspect of all this is more fun than actually making the beer... to each his or her own, I enjoy both aspects of the hobby and I dont mean to imply that all cip is a waste im sure there are setups and situations where it makes good sense too but faor as easy as it is to clean my 4 conicals I wouldnt even bother with the hardware for cip especially since I only use the internal coil in one conical..... now at the nanobrewery its another story... everything already purchased for cip. we are just waiting to find a mechanical engineer to put on paper that a coolbot with an ac unit is safe to run indoors for the inspector..
I understand people enjoy building things etc. Just seems alot of people are trying to reinvent the wheel or solve a problem that doesn't exist lol. An example is I saw a guy post a DIY glycol chiller. Essential he has a chest freezer modified and full of glycol sitting beside the conical. It's a cheap build but I imagine if you add up all the Knicknacks including the coil/jacket/pump/ controllers/ glycol/ lines/ leg extensions/brace all that it's still 3-5 hundred dollars. Plus the floor space it takes up is basically another conical. For the same money the chest freezer alone cost you can buy a properly sized fridge and just put the conical inside it.... Same end result. Cheers
 
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I understand people enjoy building things etc. Just seems alot of people are trying to reinvent the wheel or solve a problem that doesn't exist lol. An example is I saw a guy post a DIY glycol chiller. Essential he has a chest freezer modified and full of glycol sitting beside the conical. It's a cheap build but I imagine if you add up all the Knicknacks including the coil/jacket/pump/ controllers/ glycol/ lines/ leg extensions/brace all that it's still 3-5 hundred dollars. Plus the floor space it takes up is basically another conical. For the same money the chest freezer alone cost you can buy a properly sized fridge and just put the conical inside it.... Same end result. Cheers

Oh, you cruel cruel person! Why come in here and crush all of our good (bad) ideas with logic!

I've gone through the same cycle many times. I could probably flip a coin and determine if I'm going to do it the easy way or the hard way. For me it's about the fun and the challenge, and also how much time I have available for that particular thing.

...don't judge me! :p
 
Oh, you cruel cruel person! Why come in here and crush all of our good (bad) ideas with logic!

I've gone through the same cycle many times. I could probably flip a coin and determine if I'm going to do it the easy way or the hard way. For me it's about the fun and the challenge, and also how much time I have available for that particular thing.

...don't judge me! :p
Haha sorry I don't mean to be cruel. I definitely don't have anything against building stuff. I built my eherms and everything else in my brewery. My point was more so that with the small size of the homebrew conicals imho things like glycol and cip are overkill and really meant for much larger vessels but seem to be must haves as soon as adding a conical. I'm just waiting for someone to cool a 5 gallon carboy with a penguin chiller lol. Cheers
 
I understand people enjoy building things etc. Just seems alot of people are trying to reinvent the wheel or solve a problem that doesn't exist lol. An example is I saw a guy post a DIY glycol chiller. Essential he has a chest freezer modified and full of glycol sitting beside the conical. It's a cheap build but I imagine if you add up all the Knicknacks including the coil/jacket/pump/ controllers/ glycol/ lines/ leg extensions/brace all that it's still 3-5 hundred dollars. Plus the floor space it takes up is basically another conical. For the same money the chest freezer alone cost you can buy a properly sized fridge and just put the conical inside it.... Same end result. Cheers
Again, depends on setup... I control temps on 4 conical fermenters with a single 1/3hp chiller... It doesnt run very much and uses less juice than 4 fridges to do so and takes up way less space. The whole setup only cost me a couple hundred bucks but I got the chiller free as it was being tossed. and then theres the fact that this is a hobby and for the folks who have the extra money... looks are usually more important.
 
Haha sorry I don't mean to be cruel. I definitely don't have anything against building stuff. I built my eherms and everything else in my brewery. My point was more so that with the small size of the homebrew conicals imho things like glycol and cip are overkill and really meant for much larger vessels but seem to be must haves as soon as adding a conical. I'm just waiting for someone to cool a 5 gallon carboy with a penguin chiller lol. Cheers
They do make cooling jackets for carboys.. I use one on my stout 12.5 gallon conical. (I dont use the smaller "conical jackets" or 1 gallon jackets which are a gimmick to sell more). works pretty well and easy to remove with velcro again the idea is you can cool multiple vessels and hold them all at different temps using one chiller...

http://www.gotta-brew.com/products/cool-zone-cooling-jacket.html
 
That was funny @NeoBrew....as you said "crushing our good ideas with logic". LOL

The CIP idea may or may not be embraced by all, but for the sake of argument, I personally use it and it works for me. Kinda-

BUT....HOWEVER....CIP is not the answer to making life so simple you can run it and walk away. With my Ss tanks, after CIP I take apart the TC fittings and the faces of the ferrules are still covered with yeast and gunk. On each ferrule the TC assembly needs to be broken down, cleaned out with a star san soaked bottle brush, gaskets cleaned and sanitized and all reassembled.

Like @augidoggy and I have talked about this before, since we are breaking down the tank to do this cleaning/sanitizing anyway, why bother with CIP? I see his point and largely agree. Since I had a sump pump anyway, I use it to drive the CIP, so my situation may be different than many. CIP knocks down the krausen ring, but by no means would I consider CIP the answer to all of my cleaning needs. For those who only do CIP and walk away w/o a complete break down, hope infections wont cause problems in the future.
 
Again, depends on setup... I control temps on 4 conical fermenters with a single 1/3hp chiller... It doesnt run very much and uses less juice than 4 fridges to do so and takes up way less space. The whole setup only cost me a couple hundred bucks but I got the chiller free as it was being tossed. and then theres the fact that this is a hobby and for the folks who have the extra money... looks are usually more important.
4 conicals is a different story. I can see using the chiller in that case. My comments were more directed at single conical users. Cheers
 
I like the way that sounds. My only concern with leaving the lid in place and cleaning (only) with CIP and not breaking the lid and gasket down, is that nasties may hide in those crevices. Has that been an issue?

Honestly, I'd really like to have a Spike TOO!

Not an issue, if you're fermenting a 5 gallon batch, krausen never reaches the seal so a quick wash with a soft sponge. With 10 gallon batches, chances are Krausen will hit the lid, BUT, you want to pop that lid open after a CIP just to give it a once over.

I leave the lid on throughout fermentation, never remove it even if I am dry hopping. The only time that lid comes off is after i use the CIP. The CIP does an awesome job in cleaning, I have it hooked up to a sump pump so it has a lot of pressure coming out which leave the conical bright and shiny clean. I remove the lid afterwards to inspect the seal and to clean and sanitize it and to give me piece of mind that the entire interior of the conical is 100% clean.

Some people will say the CIP is a novelty, but, it's not if you have it configured properly. It also prevents any accidental scratches to the interior of the conical from hand washing (jewelry, using the scruby side of the sponge, etc).

And, yes, if you use CIP, you still have to remove the valves and all TC fittings to clean those, even the big brew houses remove their TC fittings after a CIP, it's not magic.

Go for the SPIKE conical, you won't regret it. The lid is only a pain if you're removing it during fermentation to add hops and what not, don't do that and add it from the 4 inch TC at the top.
 
From my experience working in the food manufacturing industry with triclamp/sanitary fittings I kind of disagree with having to disassemble them after cip. The entire purpose of a sanitary fitting is to be just that, sanitary. We have miles of stainless pipes and triclamp fittings throughout my production plant that never get taken apart. The key to them being sanitary and cip is having the proper sized fittings and gaskets. If you are used the gaskets that match the pipe i.d. you are using there will be no nook for anything to get into at the fitting flange. So in this case a cip is absolutely effective without breaking apart the fitting. (We perform regular microbial testing on our equipment to verify the cip effectiveness) I will say being in a commercial environment we do use much stronger caustic detergents for our cip than what homebrewers are using. But my main point is tri clamp fittings were not designed to have to be broken apart after a cip. Although I wont disagree that it's a good practice for the sake of verifying cleanliness. Just my .02
 
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