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Help going from 5gal to 10gal batches

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I had the same issue as the OP before expanding to do 8 and 10 g batches on a setup with one 15g BK, one 10g HLT, one 10g MLT and two 10g igloo CLT's. Works like a charm, thoogh my "chokepoint" is always the 10g MLT. Everything else will handle whatever I throw at it. (To be completely transparent, though, I have boiled over the BK once having forgotten my femdrops.)

To help deal with the MLT chokepoint - as I am adamant to stick with 10g here - I moved to dual batch sparges and warm the sparge water while the mash is ongoing. I also simply limit the really high gravity specialty stuff to 5g. No issue for me at all since I never really need more that 5g of Kentuckiy Breakfast Stout, anyway. Finally, for my high gravity IPA's, I usually make 8g, or if I really need 10g, I supplement with a little DME.

So, the moral of the story is you can work with whatever you have if you get creative enough with your processes and really examine your needs on a recipe by recipe basis.
 
20G kettles are not much more $$$ than 15G, so you can go either way (nobody ever regrets getting the engine with more horsepower). I would recommend a burner with leg extensions (such as Blichmann), so that you can drain your chilled wort directly into a fermenter. Carrying 2 full 5G fermenters isn't so bad (use straps if you like carboys!). My recommendation to a friend was a 15G aluminum kettle, with a blichmann burner w/leg extensions.

With a 15G, you can mash at 1.25 qt / gal., and do all but the highest gravity beers. I would use an extra pot for a few gallons on the stovetop, sparge with that. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=123585

I have a hook in my ceiling, use a Wilserbrewer bag (with a cord / ratchet pully), works great. I have a 3-tier also, but BIAB is the simple, cheap way to go.
 
Yeah its about a 2" lip and the bags flare out at the bottom which is why I'm thinking of the cone shape I've seen on this forum somewhere. The current weight isn't an issue but sure would be with the larger grain bill.


Yes, we are now making specific keggle shaped bags with a heavy taper that are smaller and more narrow at the bottom to keep the grain bill as small as possible to ease extraction from the kettle.

I'll post a photo when I get a chance.
 
Please help! :mug:

one piece of advice that i wish i would have gotten when switching from 5 to 10 gallons.

Don't start drinking until the boil starts. Getting 14 gallons to a boil with the same burner i used for 7 gallons took A LOT longer.

My first 10 gallon batch got a little fuzzy when i started drinking at mash out like I do when only doing 5 gallons. I think i missed a hop addition near then end. :drunk:
 
Managing two boil kettles at the same time just sounds like a PITA. Twice the burners, chilers etc...

Actually may be easier. Not as heavy so no pumps or bad backs. The small kettles cool faster as well. It takes the same 5 hrs weather it is two kettles or one big one. It is no big deal and easy done.
 
@TexasDroughtBrewery Take what you will from these comments. My recommendation stands for a 20G assuming you are buying a new kettle anyway.

Yes, I will be buying a new kettle. The biggest eye opener so far is the weight it will add and not being able to lift it unless I change my process to BIAB or get some type of pully system.

These insights made me want to save a little longer and move to all electric brewing won't have to worry about moving pots or any of these hassles.
 
Yes, I will be buying a new kettle. The biggest eye opener so far is the weight it will add and not being able to lift it unless I change my process to BIAB or get some type of pully system.

These insights made me want to save a little longer and move to all electric brewing won't have to worry about moving pots or any of these hassles.

you don't need to go electric...you just need a pump.
 
I use a 20 gallon concord pot with the basket (ebay) Great pot.1/2 auto siphon fills a 5 gallon bucket in one minute.So I don't use a valve.Do yourself a favor and buy the basket.I forgot to use the basket once and it sucked squeezing a sticky bag.And it makes for an easier sparge with an open bag in a basket..I made this hoist and it works awesome,I brew in my kitchen and a mounting a pulley on the ceiling would have led to a divorce.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=508766
 
I use a 20 gallon concord pot with the basket (ebay) Great pot.1/2 auto siphon fills a 5 gallon bucket in one minute.So I don't use a valve.Do yourself a favor and buy the basket.I forgot to use the basket once and it sucked squeezing a sticky bag.And it makes for an easier sparge with an open bag in a basket..I made this hoist and it works awesome,I brew in my kitchen and a mounting a pulley on the ceiling would have led to a divorce.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=508766

Two thing...don't mount a pulley to the ceiling...mount a plant hook.

Squeezing also is not necessary. If you forget your basket or just choose not to use it, let the bag hang until it is time to chill. In my 9 gallon (net, 10.5 preboil) system I loose two measly cups of wort by not squeezing or about 1.2%.
 
Two thing...don't mount a pulley to the ceiling...mount a plant hook.

Squeezing also is not necessary. If you forget your basket or just choose not to use it, let the bag hang until it is time to chill. In my 9 gallon (net, 10.5 preboil) system I loose two measly cups of wort by not squeezing or about 1.2%.
My method is to come in a little under volume post mash.I use a basket with the bag clipped to the basket rim.I squish the grain with a pot lid to get out as much sugar as possible and then dump some water over the grain to get my volume to the correct level. I like knowing Ive gotten the goodness out of the grain.Then I lower the basket out of the way in a tub.I like having an open area over the kettle for the boil.The bag over the steam for an hour boil isn't going to help dry anything out either. No real right or wrong,or debate.Just a matter of preference I suppose.
 
No real right or wrong,or debate.Just a matter of preference I suppose.

Agreed and was not offering it as such. Was mentioning it as an alternative method should you forget again.

The fact that you sparge does change the equation as that is more difficult and the bag must be resting and open. On my small scale test rig I saw about 79-81% efficiency using a dunk sparge where I only get about 75% with no sparge. So again, that 5% was not worth the hassle (though not a big hassle at all) of sparging. It is like a $1.20-2.00 in savings but burn more "active brewing" time verses passively letting stuff do its thing to make sweet delicious wort. Part of the reason I went from a gravity 3-tier was the simplicity.
 
Yes, I will be buying a new kettle. The biggest eye opener so far is the weight it will add and not being able to lift it unless I change my process to BIAB or get some type of pully system.

These insights made me want to save a little longer and move to all electric brewing won't have to worry about moving pots or any of these hassles.

From your above comments I guess you haven't been reading/understanding any of my posts...You do not have to lift anything heavy the way I do it. And you don't need to dunk or lift a bag full of grain which takes up volume in your pot better used to collect wort only.
You can lift 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 gallons of wort max at a time and transfer to your main boil pot its up to you. The only time I lift the grains is when I'm ready to dump them and clean the cooler...and then Im lifting down not up and maybe 25 lbs total weight including the weight of the cooler for a 10 gal batch.
The pot I linked includes the SS valve needed for what I'm explaining and will boil 99% of any 10gl batch you will ever care to do. A 20gal might be better for BIAB but isn't needed for 10 gal batches with a cooler.

Feel free to PM me if it still isn't clear to you and I will walk you through it..
 

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