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HELP> Do you mechanically filter your homebrew? If so, I need your advice.

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Update: 8:00 AM on the farm. Checked on the filtering this morning. Id estimate I'm halfway finished. The carbonation in the receiving keg must've built up and surpassed the 5psi I'm pushing with the CO2 tank. I burped the receiving tank to release all the CO2. It is flowing again......very slowly.
 
Update: 8:00 AM on the farm. Checked on the filtering this morning. Id estimate I'm halfway finished. The carbonation in the receiving keg must've built up and surpassed the 5psi I'm pushing with the CO2 tank. I burped the receiving tank to release all the CO2. It is flowing again......very slowly.

Not really following along here, so not sure what you're doing, but I could filter 5g of beer through my plate filter in less than 10 minutes. I never timed it, but it was not long. If it slowed too much, I know a) the plate filters had clogged, and b) the beer wasn't clear enough to filter (or I picked up trub from bottom of fermentor).
 
Not really following along here, so not sure what you're doing, but I could filter 5g of beer through my plate filter in less than 10 minutes. I never timed it, but it was not long. If it slowed too much, I know a) the plate filters had clogged, and b) the beer wasn't clear enough to filter (or I picked up trub from bottom of fermentor).

basically I'm attempting to filter already carbonated beer through a two-filter plate....5 micron. I've switched out filters once.....my first attempt at this, and it is going rather slow lol
 
I filter my lagers at 1 micron and my west-coast IPAs at 5 microns as I like them bright, clear, and fresh. My process is similar to @Beermeister32 and @ntempleton. I use a canister filter rather than a plate chiller with John Guest 1/4" NPT to quick disconnect fittings and use BevSeal Ultra 235 beer lines as my beer hoses. I fill the canister and lines with StarSan and purge the everything with carbon dioxide prior to filtering. I flip the canister upside-down so that the gas completely purges the StarSan from canister (otherwise the gas just bubbles through the StarSan). For my IPAs, I use a mesh screen inside the dry-hop keg to pre-filter so that the 5 micron canister doesn't get plugged with hop material.

Before filtering, I cool to 34F so that the haze-forming proteins come out of solution and form larger complexes prior to filtering. If you filter warm beer, then you can still get haze in the filtered beer, as the haze forming molecules can escape the filtering.

I also regularly filter carbonated beer as I spund and condition my lagers in my unitank prior to filtering and force carbonate my IPAs while they are dry hopping. The trick is to make sure that the receiving vessel is at the same pressure as equilibrium pressure for the carbonated beer. To make the process easier, I have a 1.75 gal mini keg that I fill 1/3 with StarSan and connect a sounding valve to the gas out. A regular keg would also be fine for this, but I picked up the mini-keg cheaply a while ago and it's easier to handle.

My setup is then:

CO2 regulator -> gas in - keg/unitank with unfiltered beer - liquid out -> canister filter -> liquid in - receiving keg - gas out -> liquid in - StarSan in mini keg - gas out -> spunding valve set at equilibrium pressure

Before filtering, the whole system is purged with carbon dioxide and pressurized to the equilibrium pressure of the carbonated beer. I then set the regular to 2 or 3 psi higher than the equilibrium to push the beer into the purged, pressurized receiving keg.

You could get away without the StarSan mini keg, but I've had one too many instances of beer squirting out of a spunding valve and this keg collects any spillage.

Kunze says that filtering should be done after maturation and lagering, but I often filter after cooling the beer and a short maturation in the unitank, with a longer maturation in the lagering keg.
 
Update 1200AM:
Finally finished up. Here are just a few things I learned with my first plate filtering attempt.

Filtering carbonated beer - bad
Filtering beer with a lot of "gunk" - bad
Not opening the relief valve on the receiving keg - bad

What I'll change. I'll get a spunding valve for the recieving keg to keep the pressure slightly lower than just opening up the relief valve all the way.
I'm going to try gelatin prior to filtering. Not sure at what stage of the process I'll do it, but many of you have suggested it.
Buy more filters. I ended up using two 5-7micron filters, and one 1-2 micron filters.
Buy another regulator, or move my CO2 tank outside the fridge.

The Maibock turned out pretty clear though.
 
It's completely possible to filter carbonated beer but the receiving keg needs to be held at the carbonation pressure with a spunding valve and the donor keg boosted to about 5 psi over that pressure. That's what's going to keep foaming to a minimum. Priming a keg prior to filtering just adds additional sediment that has to be filtered out making it more likely to clog the filter. Priming after filtering will take longer due to yeast removal and just put a bunch more sediment. What is the aversion to force carbing it?

If I were you, I'd get it into the first keg, push it through the filter to another keg and force carb it there. The time you'll need to lager will be greatly reduced given the filtering because most of what you're trying to achieve in lagering is the clarity. Filtering is express lagering.

THE most important thing is keeping oxygen out of everything. You should be filling your first keg with starsan to the top, then pushing that through your lines/filter and into the second keg, finally pushing all that out of the second keg with CO2. It's a lot of CO2 use for sure, but if you don't do this, you'll have nice clear dreadfully oxidized beer.
 
Has anyone used Bevbright filters? Any success?

Yes, I use them regularly and they are great. I use the coarser 3 micron ones to filter my West Coast IPA and just used the 99.8% 1 micron on a helles that has been lagering for three months. Came out absolutely crystal clear and tasted great.
 
One thing to add: There are supposed to be sterile, but I don't trust the flimsy plastic that they come in, but since I purge my filter canister with starsan and then CO2 before filtering, they get sanitized before use anyway.
 
I used the 3 micron, followed by a 1 micron. 90% rating. Very limited success.
 
I used the 3 micron, followed by a 1 micron. 90% rating. Very limited success.

Are they clogging or not clearing the beer up? I only use the 98% and the 99.8%. I also only use them to push from keg to keg, not fermenter to keg (except for my unitank), so I'm typically pushing with about 5 - 10 psi of relative pressure.
 
Are they clogging or not clearing the beer up? I only use the 98% and the 99.8%. I also only use them to push from keg to keg, not fermenter to keg (except for my unitank), so I'm typically pushing with about 5 - 10 psi of relative pressure.

Not clogging, but not clearing the beer very well. 90% efficiency rated.
 
This lager was filtered with the 99.8% 1 micron filter. Crystal clear.

IMG_2046.jpeg
 
Not here seeking opinions on whether to mechanically filter or not. I've recently bought a plate filter, so I'm past that decision point. I do have a couple questions though.

My situation: I brew lagers primarily. I keg condition these beers by carbonating with corn sugar in the keg after primary fermentation. When it comes time to serve, I'll place in my beer fridge, connect the keg on serving carbonation (~14 psi), then start serving several days later.

My questions are these:
When should I filter? I think my options are pre-lagering (immediately after primary fermentation when transferring into keg) or post lagering?
If filtering pre-lagering, do I still keg condition with corn sugar? Will the beer "spoil" if I lager for extended times without keg conditioning? Do I just add enough corn sugar to build to ~ 5-10 psi?
If filtering post-lagering, I suspect I will have to release all the CO2 built up from the keg conditioning? Does this make sense?

What do you do?
I used to filter in the pressure transfer between primary and the keg, but I don’t do it much anymore. They get 90% as clear on their own after a few weeks and I don’t have to clean the filter or waste extra beer.
 
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