Heating element on for 15sec.

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jcs401

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I accidentally turned my heating element on for about 15sec. Without water/liquid in the kettle. Is it ruined? Has a slight “burnt” Oder mildly but still functions (with water of course). Can I use it with no off flavors? Can I use something like vinegar to clean it to see if the burning smell resides? Suggestions? Had this ever happened to anyone and still produce good beer?
 
Clean it off really well and no it's not ruined. I did it once myself and still use it no problem no off flavors if you clean it really well. A good soak in hot cleaner and a scrub and you'll be good to go
 
I've dry fired mine till it was cherry red. The burnt smell is all the crud burning off. It looks like new afterward
 
Clean it up and it should be fine.

If I recall correctly, @passedpawn, fires his dry intentionally till it's red hot after every brew to clean it with no ill effect.

If incoloy element (the gray metal), and ULWD, this isn't a problem. I think it's a bad thing if your element is stainless or not ultra-low-wattage-density. I do this after EVERY brewday.

 
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If incoloy element (the gray metal), and ULWD, this isn't a problem. I think it's a bad thing if your element is stainless or not ultra-low-wattage-density. I do this after EVERY brewday.



This works for passedpawn and probably for others as well with their particular element, but its done while closely supervised.

However I would not advise it for every element in every situation.

Heating elements like we use are damaged when they get accidentally dry fired for too long a time period. They are not designed to be powered while not covered with liquid.
 
To clean my elements I soak them in PBW. When cleaning the kettle I fill it high enough to cover elements and ports and such, heat the water to 160 degrees and adding appropriate amount of PBW. The element comes out shiny new.

For my RIMS element, I have a tall skinny plastic pitcher; I fill with hot water and PBW and suspend the element in it to clean it.

I don't have the guts to fire mine up to cherry red hot. :)
 
To clean my elements I soak them in PBW. When cleaning the kettle I fill it high enough to cover elements and ports and such, heat the water to 160 degrees and adding appropriate amount of PBW. The element comes out shiny new.

For my RIMS element, I have a tall skinny plastic pitcher; I fill with hot water and PBW and suspend the element in it to clean it.

I don't have the guts to fire mine up to cherry red hot. :)

This is also how I do my boil kettle element.

I get a buildup of hard water mineral deposits on the element and bottom/sides of my HLT over the course of a year. I fill it with enough white vinegar and water to c over the element and heat it up. This does a good job and the mineral deposits disappear leaving everything shiny again.

I do CIP on the RIMS heater, pump, and tubing. Just circulate hot PBW solution through everything. I pulled the element out for inspection after a couple of years of doing this and the element and housing were spotless. Work smarter, not harder.
 
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To clean my elements I soak them in PBW. When cleaning the kettle I fill it high enough to cover elements and ports and such, heat the water to 160 degrees and adding appropriate amount of PBW. The element comes out shiny new.

For my RIMS element, I have a tall skinny plastic pitcher; I fill with hot water and PBW and suspend the element in it to clean it.

I don't have the guts to fire mine up to cherry red hot. :)

How long are you soaking? I've been recirculating an Oxiclean solution through my kettle, pump, and chiller for around 45 minutes after I brew and I've still had to take out the element and clean between the folds (that sounds bad).
 
How long are you soaking? I've been recirculating an Oxiclean solution through my kettle, pump, and chiller for around 45 minutes after I brew and I've still had to take out the element and clean between the folds (that sounds bad).

I, for one, am a staunch supporter of keeping any and all folds as clean as possible to avoid any, uh...complications.

Your oxyclean may not be caustic enough to do the cleaning on tough deposits. I know PBW has caustic cleaners in it, and one of the home-made PBW substitutes calls for TSP to add a caustic cleaning component.

This works well for my kettle element, but may be too strong for, uh...some other folds...
 
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How long are you soaking? I've been recirculating an Oxiclean solution through my kettle, pump, and chiller for around 45 minutes after I brew and I've still had to take out the element and clean between the folds (that sounds bad).

I probably let it run for 15 minutes, maybe 20.

How hot is the water into which you're dissolving the PBW? When I first started using PBW I would use water that was just about too hot to put my hands in, cleaning and wiping down with that. Maybe 115-120 degrees. I was disappointed in the results.

Then I read about using HOT water--probably 160 degrees. Guess what? It works and works VERY well.

When I recirc through the kettle and counterflow chiller and pump, I'll usually run some water through and dump the hose output into the sink to get the gunk out. Then I will fill up to whatever level I want, add PBW, then fire up the system to get the water HOT.

If you're not using HOT water then it's not going to work.

Here's a pic showing the results of this approach; the element wasn't removed nor did I have to scrub it:

cleankettleelement.jpg
 
I probably let it run for 15 minutes, maybe 20.

How hot is the water into which you're dissolving the PBW? When I first started using PBW I would use water that was just about too hot to put my hands in, cleaning and wiping down with that. Maybe 115-120 degrees. I was disappointed in the results.

Then I read about using HOT water--probably 160 degrees. Guess what? It works and works VERY well.

When I recirc through the kettle and counterflow chiller and pump, I'll usually run some water through and dump the hose output into the sink to get the gunk out. Then I will fill up to whatever level I want, add PBW, then fire up the system to get the water HOT.

If you're not using HOT water then it's not going to work.

Here's a pic showing the results of this approach; the element wasn't removed nor did I have to scrub it:

View attachment 629217
I've been filling to around 9 gallons, heating to mash temp (around 150) and then add the Oxiclean once it's heated.
 
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I've been filling to around 9 gallons, heating to mash temp (around 150) and then add the Oxiclean once it's heated.

Maybe you should try some PBW and see if that works better. And "around" 150 could mean below it. Try 160 degrees, actual, and PBW, and see how that works. I'm sure it'll work--it has for me.
 
Maybe you should try some PBW and see if that works better. And "around" 150 could mean below it. Try 160 degrees, actual, and PBW, and see how that works. I'm sure it'll work--it has for me.

Thanks! Next time I run to my local HBS I'll get a small bottle of PBW to try. I'll also try the Oxiclean at 160 to see if it performs any better.
 
Thanks! Next time I run to my local HBS I'll get a small bottle of PBW to try. I'll also try the Oxiclean at 160 to see if it performs any better.

There are supposed to be homemade versions of PBW, but I don't think PBW is just oxyclean.

I buy mine from Ritebrew. Neil sells it in the usual canisters, 4#, 8#, but you can get a 4# refill from him for $16.49. It comes in a plastic bag, but it's almost the perfect amount for putting in a plastic coffee can. I have a 4# canister that I refill, but I buy extra and keep it in the spare coffee can. So no need to pay for the canister.

So, if you buy a 1# canister from your LHBS, you'll probably pay around $9. You can get 4# for under $17. Plus shipping. Anyway, my guess is you're going to like it, so it might make sense to just get 4#.

He also sells 50# for $159.99. I'm trying to convince myself and a couple buddies to go in together on that. :)
 

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