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Heating element height - boil issue?

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Big10

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With 5 gallons in the keg, the water line is about 1 inch above my heating element. Will I have any problem coming to a boil with my heating element installed an inch below my water line? Will I be okay if I perform a vigorous manual stir?

I've just converted a keggle to an ebrew setup. I have my ball lock valve complete with a dip tube in the normal location about 3.5 or so inches from the bottom of the keg. This forced me to install my heating element above the dip tube so the heating element and dip tube do not intersect. I will be using a false bottom and hop blocker that will be installed under the dip tube.

I havent yet been able to do a test boil.
*false bottom, and dip tube not shown in picture. The keg is also dry and empty. Sorry, not the best visual example of the issue described above.

2015-03-08 17.53.30.jpg
 
With 5 gallons in the keg, the water line is about 1 inch above my heating element. Will I have any problem coming to a boil with my heating element installed an inch below my water line? Will I be okay if I perform a vigorous manual stir?

I've just converted a keggle to an ebrew setup. I have my ball lock valve complete with a dip tube in the normal location about 3.5 or so inches from the bottom of the keg. This forced me to install my heating element above the dip tube so the heating element and dip tube do not intersect. I will be using a false bottom and hop blocker that will be installed under the dip tube.

I havent yet been able to do a test boil.
*false bottom, and dip tube not shown in picture. The keg is also dry and empty. Sorry, not the best visual example of the issue described above.

How many gallons do you plan on starting with in keg? If you think you have to stir during each brew, that adds up to a lot of work. It sounds like it not in an ideal position, for sure. Considering heat rises, lower is definitely better. But since you've already done it, well, there you are.
 
Thanks for the quick response. I will probably start with 7, 7.5 in the boil with a goal of 5.5, 6 in the fermenter.
I think the bottom line is i will have to do a trial boil with water to determine how quickly I can come to a boil with my current configuration. Im hoping with a bit of stirring and luck I will be okay, but if it takes too long to boil, I can rework my keg setup. Im just not looking forward to the extra work. Im really excited to get the eBrew setup off the ground.
I suppose it will be ideal to get my rig set up right the first time. So I guess u should just accept that I am still in the R&D phase.
 
You won't have any problems as long as it's covered. Stirring won't matter. Just make sure you plan out boiloff so towards the end of the brew you still have the volume to cover it.
 
I have my ball lock valve complete with a dip tube in the normal location about 3.5 or so inches from the bottom of the keg. This forced me to install my heating element above the dip tube so the heating element and dip tube do not intersect.

It's a bit late now, but by not mounting the element directly opposite the dip tube/ball valve you would have had no problem. Better yet use a center drain in the bottom and you could kiss the dip tube goodbye.
 
If needed, most elements will tolerate a small amount of bending to lower their position in the kettle.
 
If needed, most elements will tolerate a small amount of bending to lower their position in the kettle.

I was going to suggest this too but being that his element is not ULWD and the base part would still be the same higher height I'm not sure how long the element would run without popping if the level did happen to get low. (Now that I think about it having more of the element submerged will still help.)

Regular density and low watt density elements are not very tolerable to dry firing at all... I have that same element in my HLT but wouldnt chance using it myself in a boil kettle due to possible scorching issues although many have had good success with using them... more than report scorching anyway..
 
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