Has anyone seen this style of lid?

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Brewjangle

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I have a fermentation chamber (so no collar). I have also dont a keezer build. I am not sure this is the best freezer for a keezer. I looked at mine to see if there is any obvious way to get the hook out of the base and remount to collar. I dont see a good way to do it. Also on another note these freezers are typically old. Hate to have you build a keezer and then the compressor goes out.
 
i have not, but it seems like they unbolt from the back. you would just have to make the same pocket holes for the hinge things on your collar.
 
Yes, except its designed to go in the middle of the freezer wall, not the back of it like a surface applied hinge. It may be easiest to remove the lid (with hinge attached) from the base, then adjust the collar shape so the bottom applies to the exterior at the back. Maybe the rear of the collar is 2 layers of 2x6 (or whatever you panned to use) Attach the hinge base to the first 2x6, then cut out as required and apply a second 2x6 over it. The important thing is to ensure the lid perimeter seal makes firm contact with the lid seal so you don't leak cold air.
 
I have a fermentation chamber (so no collar). I have also dont a keezer build. I am not sure this is the best freezer for a keezer. I looked at mine to see if there is any obvious way to get the hook out of the base and remount to collar. I dont see a good way to do it. Also on another note these freezers are typically old. Hate to have you build a keezer and then the compressor goes out.

If the lid is not able to have a collar added I may go with cutting a hole and adding a tower. And for $25, this is worth the risk. Not out too much if it doesn't work out. Still, its running pretty strong at the moment so if nothing else we can chalk this up to a learning experience!! Cheers!
 
i have not, but it seems like they unbolt from the back. you would just have to make the same pocket holes for the hinge things on your collar.

This is what I am hoping for! If they will come loose enough to take the lid off, but not mount to a collar, I will probably try to find after-market hinges to attach.
Thanks for the reply!
 
Yes, except its designed to go in the middle of the freezer wall, not the back of it like a surface applied hinge. It may be easiest to remove the lid (with hinge attached) from the base, then adjust the collar shape so the bottom applies to the exterior at the back. Maybe the rear of the collar is 2 layers of 2x6 (or whatever you panned to use) Attach the hinge base to the first 2x6, then cut out as required and apply a second 2x6 over it. The important thing is to ensure the lid perimeter seal makes firm contact with the lid seal so you don't leak cold air.

Good Idea! Ill definitely post back once I find a solution!
Thanks
 
If the lid is not able to have a collar added I may go with cutting a hole and adding a tower.

The one thing to watch out for when adding a tower is that most chest freezer lids don't have reinforcement across the lid area. Generally when the lid is open you can easily flex the lid diagonally.

For me it meant that one of my chest freezers got badly dented in when someone sat a big stack of crap on it. I'd worry about the tower flexing/bending the lid with use over time.
 
Also, my freezer would not have fit a third keg withoug the collar. The height allows me to put a conditioning keg on the compressor hump. Mounting the taps through the collar for me is just icing.
 
If the lid is not able to have a collar added I may go with cutting a hole and adding a tower. And for $25, this is worth the risk. Not out too much if it doesn't work out. Still, its running pretty strong at the moment so if nothing else we can chalk this up to a learning experience!! Cheers!

So sorry about my response. I just reread it and i should not be responding while tired. It reads like my second grade son wrote it. Anyway. I do have this freezer but didnt have to add a colar to it. May be able to add a hinge to the lid and collar? Hey if all else fails add a temp controller and make it a fermentation chamber (thats what i use mine for) or use it to store your full "on deck kegs".
 
So sorry about my response. I just reread it and i should not be responding while tired. It reads like my second grade son wrote it. Anyway. I do have this freezer but didnt have to add a colar to it. May be able to add a hinge to the lid and collar? Hey if all else fails add a temp controller and make it a fermentation chamber (thats what i use mine for) or use it to store your full "on deck kegs".


No worries! I am fluent in sleep-response!
I thought about using it for fermentation, but have concerns about lifting full carboys out. It's actually a pretty decent sized freezer so lifting full carboys out will be a hassle especially while trying not to disturb the yeast cake on the bottom. Maybe I'll just use it with picnic taps until I think of something else. Thanks for the ideas!
 
Tried looking it up but didn't find much. What is a wedge collar? Sounds interesting.


I believe he is referring to having your collar slope on the sides from full height in front to points on the back sides near the hinge side so you'd have 2 wedge shaped collar boards on sides and one full height collar board across the front for your taps.
 
I believe he is referring to having your collar slope on the sides from full height in front to points on the back sides near the hinge side so you'd have 2 wedge shaped collar boards on sides and one full height collar board across the front for your taps.


Wow! That really is a brilliant idea!!! Seems simple enough. Do you know if there are any seal issues that need to be planned for if going this route?
 
Not that I can think of. I would imagine it would have the same seal issues that any standard collar would have. Having not built a collared keezer I really wouldn't have any practical first hand experience to help guide you with.
 
The only thing that I would want to make sure of with the wedge style collar, is to ensure that you bevel the front correctly for a good seal. The easiest way in my mind would be to measure the angle, and set your circular saw to that particular angle (a Table saw would be better), and then rip the bevel along the edge.

If you kept the front board square on top, I don't think you'd get a good seal.

Also, depending on how tall you make the front, you may want to add latches to the front to force it down some to create a better seal, as you won't have as much force down due to the angle of the lid.
 
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