Has any one ever used this new pump?

[rgauthier20420]

A return flow will create some sort of movement in the wort in the kettle. The flow would depend on your direction your fitting is pointing inside your kettle and the diameter of your kettle. I imagine it would for sure decrease your chilling time simply because there is "some" sort of flow, but by how much I can't say.

 

[atoughram]

I ordered a couple of them - I'll tell you what I think! I'm planning on making a portable wireless transfer skid.

 

[Smellyglove]

One of mine took a dump yesterday. It shorted. It's been submerged in my herms for a few months now. I'll open it ut and see if there is something do do about it.

 

[Wacki]

Interested in this nice find. You guys are saying it's not strong enough to whirlpool but does it have enough power just to get some movement around an immersion chiller to cut down on chilling time?


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I used it to recirculate while chilling my last batch, temp dropped MUCH faster than usual. I'm sure any movement keeping the wort moving while chilling will speed it up, and this provides plenty of movement.

 

[Smellyglove]

I used it to recirculate while chilling my last batch, temp dropped MUCH faster than usual. I'm sure any movement keeping the wort moving while chilling will speed it up, and this provides plenty of movement.

I was the one who said it won't whirpool. By that I meant that it wouldn't move enough wort (6gal) with "standard" pale ale hop schedule to gather the hops in the middle. I bet you can use it for a somewhat quicker cooldown. But IMO I'd rather invest in something with more punch if you already want to cool the wort fast, to also bunching the trub together.

 

[Wacki]

I was the one who said it won't whirpool. By that I meant that it wouldn't move enough wort (6gal) with "standard" pale ale hop schedule to gather the hops in the middle. I bet you can use it for a somewhat quicker cooldown. But IMO I'd rather invest in something with more punch if you already want to cool the wort fast, to also bunching the trub together.

I should have been more specific, I use a copper immersion cooler, and recirculating the wort while using that made a huge difference, but definitely mixed the cold break and trub into the fermenter. I also have an electric element, which I imagine would inhibit the ability to whirlpool...in any way, I'm still figuring out how I can separate this out w an electric element. I'm all ears if anyone has input!!

 

[Wacki]

I was the one who said it won't whirpool. By that I meant that it wouldn't move enough wort (6gal) with "standard" pale ale hop schedule to gather the hops in the middle. I bet you can use it for a somewhat quicker cooldown. But IMO I'd rather invest in something with more punch if you already want to cool the wort fast, to also bunching the trub together.

I should have been more specific, I use a copper immersion cooler, and recirculating the wort while using that made a huge difference, but definitely mixed the cold break and trub into the fermenter. I also have an electric element, which I imagine would inhibit the ability to whirlpool...in any way, I'm still figuring out how I can separate this out w an electric element. I'm all ears if anyone has input!!

 

[Smellyglove]

I should have been more specific, I use a copper immersion cooler, and recirculating the wort while using that made a huge difference, but definitely mixed the cold break and trub into the fermenter. I also have an electric element, which I imagine would inhibit the ability to whirlpool...in any way, I'm still figuring out how I can separate this out w an electric element. I'm all ears if anyone has input!!

Into the fermenter?

This is a guess. So take it as one . Since you have a element in your BK, try to direct your WP-outlet high. It seems like the whirpool collecting trub material gets smaller (thinner) the further down in your BK you get. If you can get the hops/break-material to start swirl high up, it will gradually compact on it's way down, evading the element, that's why you see a little poop with trub in the middle, not scattered all over the place on the bottom. Momentum of the wort covers all the kettle, but maybe it works even if the outer momentum is disturbed.

A quick saison-influenced thought

 

[Wacki]

Into the fermenter?



This is a guess. So take it as one . Since you have a element in your BK, try to direct your WP-outlet high. It seems like the whirpool collecting trub material gets smaller (thinner) the further down in your BK you get. If you can get the hops/break-material to start swirl high up, it will gradually compact on it's way down, evading the element, that's why you see a little poop with trub in the middle, not scattered all over the place on the bottom. Momentum of the wort covers all the kettle, but maybe it works even if the outer momentum is disturbed.



A quick saison-influenced thought

I meant that by circulating the way I do w an immersion chiller, the cold break is still mixed back in...or are you saying to do a whirl pool after it's cooled and I remove the chiller??

Btw I've only brewed on this setup once, so still figuring **** out!!

 

[Smellyglove]

I meant that by circulating the way I do w an immersion chiller, the cold break is still mixed back in...or are you saying to do a whirl pool after it's cooled and I remove the chiller??

Btw I've only brewed on this setup once, so still figuring **** out!!

Yes. Get a whirpool going after you've removed the chiller to compact trub material on the bottom of the kettle.

 

[brettwasbtd]

Can this pump handle hop pellets without any type of filtering device?

 

[rgauthier20420]

Can this pump handle hop pellets without any type of filtering device?

I would venture to say no, but I haven't tried. I don't think I would either.

 

[atoughram]

I ordered a couple of them - I'll tell you what I think! I'm planning on making a portable wireless transfer skid.

Nearly a month after ordering and they're still not here...

 

[evanmars]

Nearly a month after ordering and they're still not here...

From their ebay site:

"If you have not received your shipment within 30 business days from payment, please contact us. We will track the shipment and get back to you as soon as possible. Our goal is customer satisfaction!"
If it takes more than 35 days after ordering, you're supposed to get a refund.

HTH

 

[Smellyglove]

I live in Norway, Europe. China-stuff can take for ages to show up here if the timing is bad.

My guess is that they may "ship" the thing you ordered the same day or after, then your package is supposed to go on a container ship. If the ship just left the dock without your package then it will have to wait for the next ship designated for the container with your package.

I've been waiting from 2-6 weeks for stuff.

I've also heard that the ocean is a dangerous place due to lots of containers floating around.. I'd wait until the 30 day mark and send them an email. I got a DOA-pump once and they offered me a refund of 3/4 of the price I paid, that's because they don't want to refund the shipping costs, which are baked into the price (free shipping).

But, when they say "our goal is customer satisfaction" I've experienced that most of them really mean it. Most of them have a really tight business, moneywise, so I don't think they want to get bad rep or lose a customer.

 

[atoughram]

From their ebay site:

"If you have not received your shipment within 30 business days from payment, please contact us. We will track the shipment and get back to you as soon as possible. Our goal is customer satisfaction!"
If it takes more than 35 days after ordering, you're supposed to get a refund.

HTH

I ordered it 7/1

It's 7/29 now

I'll give it a few more days

 

[atoughram]

Got them yesterday! I'll set up a 10 gallon boil and pump the hot water through a chiller and test them. They look well made and have heft to them. The threads are a straight thread, but I can force a 1/2" npt on them.

 

[atoughram]

OK - and initial test has been completed.

Items used:

1) old motorcycle battery - charged overnight
1) Associated wiring and switch
1) Trickle Charger for between tests
10) Gallons of water

It pumps ten gallons of 52f degree water in five minutes - I tested it twice and the results were seconds apart.

I measured 14" between the outlet and the bottom of the keggle I was pumping it into.

It's a very quiet pump.

 

[atoughram]

It's whirlpooling my kettle at 180f right now. Not sure how it would do with hops but pellet hops might be ok.

 

[atoughram]

Overall first impressions are very positive, this is a nice pump. It is able to pump through my chiller at a reduced rate. The price is right but the shipping takes a LONG time. It'll be a good pump for transferring beer or other liquids.

 

[Wacki]

I have two of these little pumps, and my first few experiences have been very positive as well.

I've used them to recirc at the end of mashing, keep liquid temps from stratifying during electric heating (both wort and water), recirculating during chilling, and transferring liquids from mlt to bk and bk to fermenter.

Overall they have worked great, the last time I used it some grains got stuck in the inlet section, next to the propeller, but it still pushed through although at a limited rate. I've been very happy w this pump...

 

[Smellyglove]

It's whirlpooling my kettle at 180f right now. Not sure how it would do with hops but pellet hops might be ok.

I did my initial tests with plain water, but with hops and wort it didn't cut the cheese. Instead of getting a more powerful pump my solution was to add a mount for my 809 at the BK and some QDs (same as Moorebeer but way cheaper straight from AliExpress). Saved me a bunch of cash going this route.

 

[DrWill]

So a little more follow up. I've used this a few times now. I use it to sparge and to run wort through the chiller. Worked without any problem at all. I'm really pleased with the purchase and grateful to those on this thread in particular who helped me out.


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[orangehero]

Any reason this wouldn't work to control output?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Led-Wholesa...ing_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item43cda5312f

 

[Wacki]

I don't see why it wouldn't work, and it's nice already having the plugs/connectors on it...this is the one I use for my pumps:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171104731465

I plan to disassemble it and use the guts mounted in my control panel...

 

[Smellyglove]

It's a magnetic driven pump. You can just use a ball-valve on the output.

 

[Wacki]

It's a magnetic driven pump. You can just use a ball-valve on the output.

I'm no expert on pumps, but from my experience limiting the output on my little pump seems to put a lot of strain on it, not that it purrs as nice/quietly running it at 50% vs 100% using the dimmer, but $3 for the dimmer that also has the ability to turn it off quickly was worth it in my opinion.

 

[Minbari]

I don't see why it wouldn't work, and it's nice already having the plugs/connectors on it...this is the one I use for my pumps:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171104731465

I plan to disassemble it and use the guts mounted in my control panel...

As long as you dont exceed the 800mA limitation of the dimmer, you are golden. Most of those little DC "solar pumps" are in the area of 800-1200mA for 12Volts.

 

[Smellyglove]

I'm no expert on pumps, but from my experience limiting the output on my little pump seems to put a lot of strain on it, not that it purrs as nice/quietly running it at 50% vs 100% using the dimmer, but $3 for the dimmer that also has the ability to turn it off quickly was worth it in my opinion.

I don't think you'd put much strain on it.

Whenever the flow gets too tight the impeller will just "skip". Meaning the motor-shaft will spin as normal, but since it's magnetically coupled the resistance against the impeller will make the impeller not spin as fast as the shaft. When the resistance against the impeller is small enough the magnets will grab and the impeller will spin. The motor works as it should, either way. It's the motor you're worried about burning out.

This way the pump gets it rated voltage and amps all the time and is operated as according to its specs.

Correct me if i'm wrong, someone.

 

[Wacki]

I don't think you'd put much strain on it.

Whenever the flow gets too tight the impeller will just "skip". Meaning the motor-shaft will spin as normal, but since it's magnetically coupled the resistance against the impeller will make the impeller not spin as fast as the shaft. When the resistance against the impeller is small enough the magnets will grab and the impeller will spin. The motor works as it should, either way. It's the motor you're worried about burning out.

This way the pump gets it rated voltage and amps all the time and is operated as according to its specs.

Correct me if i'm wrong, someone.

Yea, not trying to argue at all, but honestly from what I've read throttling the output via valve, using variable voltage power supplies, or a PWM device all are acceptable for DC pumps...I'm not an expert though as to what may be best for the life of the pump.

BUT.... With the LED dimmer I bought I got to play with my soldering iron to do this:

http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/09/led-dimmer-pwm-hack.html?m=1