Guide to set internal chest freezer thermostat to >32F; Eliminate external control

[BlurryEyed]

I found what seems to be the screw, but it seems to spin around like it's stripped or something, I barely touched it. Maybe it's reverse threaded? Anyway, it didn't seem to affect the temp, it's still getting down to the same temp of 40ish, maybe I'll try screwing it to the left.

It's possible it just doesn't have a lot of friction to it.

Whatever you do....don't back the crew all the way, you might have a hell of a time getting it back in and then who knows how your thermostat will behave and you'll be forced to rig up a 3rd party thermostat controller

Was your kegerator purchsed new or used? Maybe someone else tampered with it before you?

 

[BlurryEyed]

Greetings all,

Having sold my Haier kegerator, I have upgraded to a Frigidaire Kegerator FRTB7B4EMB.

At it's lowest setting (below 1 on the thermostat controller) the liquid temp of a water bottle was around 42 degrees. Not nearly cold enough for my taste. The manual's recommended setting was 5. I can only imagine the flat warm beer this setting would have poured...

I managed to remove the thermostat controller housing (4 bolts), disconnect the main connector, and access the thermostat.

UPDATE: Removing the thermostat controller housing is not necessary. Just pull the knob off the front and the set screw is easily accessible. Lesson learned!

After removing the knob, I was able to remove the thermostat. I found the thermostat set screw just to the right of the knob. It was set at about the 10 o'clock position. I have since adjusted it counter-clockwise to the 8 o'clock.

Here's to hoping! I took some pics in the event someone want's to make this modifcation to their Frigidaire. I found that they use the same controller unit on most of their top-freezer units.

Will return back here with the results. If this doesn't work, I'll be purchasing/installing the ITC-1000 Temperature controller.

Update: I was able to get my kegerator down to about 38 Degrees F by adjusting the thermostat set screw. That's about as cold as I can get it without backing out the set screw too far.

I adjusted it starting from 10 o'clock counter-clockwise to 12 o'clock in several increments. I think I went from 10, to 8, to 6, to 3, to 12. I may try going to 10 if it pours foamy.

Now I just need a keg and we'll see how she pours :rockin:

 

[-MG-]

I just bought an Igloo FRF1050 and turned the screw all the way in, but that still had the lowest setting on the dial below freezing. I'm going the other direction to see what that does. However, from where the screw started to all the way in didn't really seem to affect the temperature inside that much.

I'll try the other way. Anyone have experience with Igloo CFs?

 

[BlurryEyed]

I just bought an Igloo FRF1050 and turned the screw all the way in, but that still had the lowest setting on the dial below freezing. I'm going the other direction to see what that does. However, from where the screw started to all the way in didn't really seem to affect the temperature inside that much.

I'll try the other way. Anyone have experience with Igloo CFs?

You can see if this guy had any luck:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/g...ernal-control-249612/index41.html#post4500434

 

[fizgig]

It's possible it just doesn't have a lot of friction to it.

Whatever you do....don't back the crew all the way, you might have a hell of a time getting it back in and then who knows how your thermostat will behave and you'll be forced to rig up a 3rd party thermostat controller

Was your kegerator purchsed new or used? Maybe someone else tampered with it before you?

It's a fermentation chamber, glass door mini-fridge, it didn't look opened, had add all the plastic film on the metal and smelled new.

 

[BlurryEyed]

It's a fermentation chamber, glass door mini-fridge, it didn't look opened, had add all the plastic film on the metal and smelled new.

You're trying to get a glass door danby down below 50 degrees?

I just don't know if that's physically possible without disabling your defrost cycle and possibly blowing out your compressor, but I'm no expert.

If the set screw isn't getting it any lower and you don't care about blowing your fridge up, then perhaps its time you considered a 3rd party thermostat. I'd recommend trying the STC-1000 or a Johnson Control A419.

But seriously, you might consider trading/selling for a keezer IMO.

 

[BlurryEyed]

You're trying to get a glass door danby down below 50 degrees?

I just don't know if that's physically possible without disabling your defrost cycle and possibly blowing out your compressor, but I'm no expert.

If the set screw isn't getting it any lower and you don't care about blowing your fridge up, then perhaps its time you considered a 3rd party thermostat. I'd recommend trying the STC-1000 or a Johnson Control A419.

But seriously, you might consider trading/selling for a keezer IMO.

UPDATE - I might be wrong in my statement..according to this unit, it should get down to 43 degrees:

http://www.danby.com/en/US/our_products/refrigeration/dbc120bls

Is this in hot environment perhaps?

 

[BlurryEyed]

It's a fermentation chamber, glass door mini-fridge, it didn't look opened, had add all the plastic film on the metal and smelled new.

There is talk of adding a resistor of some sort to it here to get it down cooler:

http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-...-thermostat-cant-adjust-stuck-43-degrees.html

 

[fizgig]

This isn't a wine fridge, it's a pop can cooler, it gets down to about 40, I want to get it down to about 29 though for lagering. I use an STC-1000 to control the temp and have the thermostat dial maxed out. There's no temp read-out on the front. I saw on youtube a guy installed a 3rd party thermostat, I couldn't find the part he used though.
the fridge:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPLYEW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

video:[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp5xG_1FLYA[/ame]

 

[BlurryEyed]

This isn't a wine fridge, it's a pop can cooler, it gets down to about 40, I want to get it down to about 29 though for lagering. I use an STC-1000 to control the temp and have the thermostat dial maxed out. There's no temp read-out on the front. I saw on youtube a guy installed a 3rd party thermostat, I couldn't find the part he used though.
the fridge:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPLYEW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp5xG_1FLYA

I think you should sell it and build a keezer if lagering is your goal. You're likely to burn out your pop cooler as it wasn't designed for that. If you don't care, then you're going to have to disable the defrost timer and run a 3rd party thermostat. Even then it won't get down to 29. It's not a freezer.

 

[comfortsteve]

Can anyone provide guidance on where the coarse adjustment screw might be???

This is a Matsu****a compressor. (mat sushi ta)

 

[joe_four_strings]

Can anyone provide guidance on where the coarse adjustment screw might be???

This is a Matsu****a compressor. (mat sushi ta)

The screw you seek is in the thermostat, not in the compressor. What you see there are the Overload switch and the relay.

 

[comfortsteve]

Ooooooh checking.....

 

[comfortsteve]

Thoughts? I'm thinking I might have to shear the spinning dial plate (first pic) at the end where it sticks out and pushes the tiny switch 'doo-hickey' which shuts it off.

 

[joe_four_strings]

Yeah, you may have to do that. That thermostat don't seem to have a set screw. Or go with a STC type temp control.

 

[comfortsteve]

Yeah, you may have to do that. That thermostat don't seem to have a set screw. Or go with a STC type temp control.

Thinking about it... shearing it off would just make it colder. STC it is.

 

[kenc_zymurgy]

Thinking about it... shearing it off would just make it colder. STC it is.

I mentioned this a while back, but this is a loooong thread, so I'll repeat it:

Using an STC is a good option, but wouldn't it be simpler to find a generic refrigerator thermostat, and just wire that to where the freezer thermostat goes?

I'd need to look at specific models to know what to use for certain, but I'm pretty sure these are mostly just two-wire, simple on/off thermostats? Couldn't a generic on/off fridge thermostat directly replace the freezer thermostat?

Then you would not need to wire an STC-1000 for power. Just a thought. The STC would be a bit more flexible though, so not a bad way to go at all.

If you don't need auto switching between heat/cool - I just saw this on ebay - even cheaper than an STC-1000 @ ~ $7:

http://goo.gl/d7xW4E


And here's a cheap thermostat - looks like a standard adjustable unit - 6A capability, <$3, ~ $8 with shipping?

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...l-Thermostat/RF7350122/1224590?ss=a4i516&mr=0

-kenc

 

[BlurryEyed]

I mentioned this a while back, but this is a loooong thread, so I'll repeat it:

Using an STC is a good option, but wouldn't it be simpler to find a generic refrigerator thermostat, and just wire that to where the freezer thermostat goes?

I'd need to look at specific models to know what to use for certain, but I'm pretty sure these are mostly just two-wire, simple on/off thermostats? Couldn't a generic on/off fridge thermostat directly replace the freezer thermostat?

Then you would not need to wire an STC-1000 for power. Just a thought. The STC would be a bit more flexible though, so not a bad way to go at all.

If you don't need auto switching between heat/cool - I just saw this on ebay - even cheaper than an STC-1000 @ ~ $7:

http://goo.gl/d7xW4E


And here's a cheap thermostat - looks like a standard adjustable unit - 6A capability, <$3, ~ $8 with shipping?

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...l-Thermostat/RF7350122/1224590?ss=a4i516&mr=0

-kenc

I like your thoughts here. To play devils advocate I'd suggest that if you're going to use a 3rd party thermostat, do it right the first time. Get a unit that's got good resources on the web for support. Using a cheapo-thermostat would work...but is it digital? Is it accurate?

The STC-1000 comes in Fahrenheit and costs $16...it's really not that expensive and comes with at least the peace of mind that homebrewers are already using it and have posted some of their setups for ideas/support.

http://amzn.to/1JlsPvY

 

[kenc_zymurgy]

I like your thoughts here. To play devils advocate I'd suggest that if you're going to use a 3rd party thermostat, do it right the first time. Get a unit that's got good resources on the web for support. Using a cheapo-thermostat would work...but is it digital? Is it accurate?

The STC-1000 comes in Fahrenheit and costs $16...it's really not that expensive and comes with at least the peace of mind that homebrewers are already using it and have posted some of their setups for ideas/support.

http://amzn.to/1JlsPvY

Yes, I think you are right. The STC style really just are not that much more than you might find a cheap mechanical thermostat (there are probably shipping charges for the ones I found), and have other advantages.

I guess I was thinking in terms of some of the techno-phobes - some people are put off by the wiring of an STC-1000 (it's simple, and people here will help, so they should not be), and that gets a little more complex if you need to add a higher current relay (probably not required in most cases).

I've got that inkbird you linked, just tested it today as I got it a few weeks ago and have not had a need for it yet. I like that it is in F, though I really should get my head around thinking C, so far all I can do automatically is 0 and 100C, 25C is warm room, and -30C = -30F. Have not memorized mash temperatures yet.

BTW, somewhat related to all this, I started a thread on replacement probes and compatible thermo*meters* (no controlling action, just temperature readings) to the STC series:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=6862936#post6862936

-kenc

 

[Brian77095]

Anyone try this on a digital upright?

 

[islandhopper]

If I was a coarse adjustment screw for this Evalet freezer, where would I be?
Any pointers? Rip off the red cover on the back? Rip off the white front that the fine adjustment screw attaches to?

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Pull the knob off, and see what secures the thermostat to the white cover.........Remove that, and look for the adjustment screw..........It may be under a piece of tape, if it has one.

 

[islandhopper]

Pull the knob off, and see what secures the thermostat to the white cover.........Remove that, and look for the adjustment screw..........It may be under a piece of tape, if it has one.

Thank you sir, I will try that and post the results

 

[gstojk]

How do you go about removing the cover from the front of the freezer? Jammed a couple of screw drivers in the edge but I'm afraid it's gonna bust before it comes loose. Is there a trick to it?

 

[McTwidget]

How do you go about removing the cover from the front of the freezer? Jammed a couple of screw drivers in the edge but I'm afraid it's gonna bust before it comes loose. Is there a trick to it?

A picture might help. Can you get to it from a side panel or something? It's probably held in by a couple plastic or metal pieces that need to be squeezed to pop it loose. You should be able to get the nob off the thermostat easier, that might help see what's behind it.

 

[user 125772]

I have an Amana 5.3 cu ft that I'm trying to run off the built in thermostat.
I have it turned down to the lowest setting (1) and have turned the "coarse" screw in (clockwise) about 20 turns , and it appears to be cycling between 35-40 degrees F. Nothing below 32 so far.

Thanks for this thread OP.

 

[GatorWayne]

I bought the FRF-470-Black from Wal-mart. It supposedly had a refrigerator setting. The first one showed up with a big dent in the side so I had to re-order. The second came in great shape. It does not have the refrigerator setting though. I take the side panel off, popped the tabs for the thermostat panel. The coarse adjust screw was on the left side. I screwed it all the way in, set the freezer to the warmest (so I screwed up at first and set it to the coldest setting) and let it set over night. My temperature is around 34 degrees.

 

[Manny_E]

Post number 54 is mine and I did this mod on the same keezer
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gu...liminate-external-control-249612/#post3015206

you need to remove it from the plastic housing. the coarse set screw is on the side with the green wire.

-=Jason=-

I also have a Magic Chef Model # HMCF7W2. I am unsure which is the coarse set screw. See pictures... I have adjusted (all the way clockwise) the screw from the 3rd pic (white cable) without much changes..

Please advise.

Thanks

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Did you "remove it from the plastic housing", as mentioned above?

Looks as if it's still on / in the "plastic housing" from the pic.

You'll probably find said screw on the "face" of the thermostat body, once you take it from the "plastic housing".

I got faith in ya'!

 

[Manny_E]

I also have a Magic Chef Model # HMCF7W2. I am unsure which is the coarse set screw. See pictures... I have adjusted (all the way clockwise) the screw from the 3rd pic (white cable) without much changes..

Please advise.

Thanks

I think my thermostat is busted... I turned the screw all the way to the right but the compressor stays on... last temp reading -31c...