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Gravity reading vs air lock.

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schia

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Hello Brew Guru's,

I've been reading enough in this forum to say that gravity reading is important more so comparing to air lock bubbles. My woth has been in the fermenting bucket for the past 2 weeks and air lock activity is low but nevertheless there. I'm brewing an Australian Pale Ale (Coopers) and the instruction says fermentation should complete within 7 days and I'm way past the deadline. My average temp is around 28-30c.

Should I in the next few days take gravity reading and if its consistent, bottle it even though on bottling day there are still bubbles coming out from the air lock?
 
Stable gravity readings 3 days consecutively. Before this happens, bottle bombs are risked.

As you know, an airlock is simply a valve, and there are several reasons why air may be escaping through that valve.

I'd let that puppy sit for 3 weeks undisturbed then begin taking readings. YMMV
 
The one thing to learn about kits....Toss out the instructions Especially for fermenting times. If you want to use a secondary, leave it in primary 2 weeks then transfer. I personally, along with a lot of other guys, just leave in primary for 4 weeks, then keg/bottle.
Even if you've reached FG, the yeast still can improve the beer through time conditioning if left alone a while.
 
Stable gravity readings 3 days consecutively. Before this happens, bottle bombs are risked.

As you know, an airlock is simply a valve, and there are several reasons why air may be escaping through that valve.

I'd let that puppy sit for 3 weeks undisturbed then begin taking readings. YMMV

Might be a silly question, when I started brewing it 2 weeks back, the yeast only kicked in after 72 hours does that mean it will also take longer to complete and not the 7 days as stipulated on the small Coopers booklet?

also, I'm not too sure if it was a stupid thing to do but I gave my fermenting bucket a twist 2 hours ago to "wake" the yeast.
 
Might be a silly question, when I started brewing it 2 weeks back, the yeast only kicked in after 72 hours does that mean it will also take longer to complete and not the 7 days as stipulated on the small Coopers booklet?

also, I'm not too sure if it was a stupid thing to do but I gave my fermenting bucket a twist 2 hours ago to "wake" the yeast.

That is a little longer start than usual but its still probably fine. I would let it sit especially if its bubbeling.Give it more time- it was slow to start it may be slow to fininish. I have a feeling a beer that would do this slow would turn out pretty awesome. Ive only had fast ferments.Using dry yeast. Did you use a liquid yeast?
 
The one thing to learn about kits....Toss out the instructions Especially for fermenting times. If you want to use a secondary, leave it in primary 2 weeks then transfer. I personally, along with a lot of other guys, just leave in primary for 4 weeks, then keg/bottle.
Even if you've reached FG, the yeast still can improve the beer through time conditioning if left alone a while.

Thanks for that, posted my reply and saw yours.
 
That is a little longer start than usual but its still probably fine. I would let it sit especially if its bubbeling.Give it more time- it was slow to start it may be slow to fininish. I have a feeling a beer that would do this slow would turn out pretty awesome. Ive only had fast ferments.Using dry yeast. Did you use a liquid yeast?

Hey Jon,

I used dry yeast - the yeast that came with the can. I hope you're right about a good beer.
 
Might be a silly question, when I started brewing it 2 weeks back, the yeast only kicked in after 72 hours does that mean it will also take longer to complete and not the 7 days as stipulated on the small Coopers booklet?

also, I'm not too sure if it was a stupid thing to do but I gave my fermenting bucket a twist 2 hours ago to "wake" the yeast.

Yeast operate on their own time schedule. How quickly they start and when they finish are really up to them. You've done your job by putting the ingredients together. Now's the toughest part; waiting for the yeast to do their thing. I like to see activity before 72 hrs, but they're going now.

RE: swirling the bucket. There's a CO2 blanket atop the beer, so I'd say it's fine. Don't make it a habit, though:mug:
 
Might be a silly question, when I started brewing it 2 weeks back, the yeast only kicked in after 72 hours does that mean it will also take longer to complete and not the 7 days as stipulated on the small Coopers booklet?

also, I'm not too sure if it was a stupid thing to do but I gave my fermenting bucket a twist 2 hours ago to "wake" the yeast.

Well I am very new but I dont think you should have gave it this twist. I think it is best not to move it at all.

Roger
 
Well I am very new but I dont think you should have gave it this twist. I think it is best not to move it at all.

Roger

Depends on the beer and yeast. In general, you are correct. However, it is one of the tools to get that stuck fermentation down, or high gravity, or stubborn yeast (looking at you Du Pont strain!!!). You never want to introduce O2, and a little twist usually wont.
 
I agree with the above posts.

I used to do more secondary transfers, but I am leaning more towards leaving it in my primary for a good 3-4 weeks regardless.

You will always have bubbles in my opinion. I've never had a beer completely stop bubbling. I've had it being extremely slow, but FG readings were consistent and it was pretty much done
 

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