Grainfather g30 v3 design of current controller?

[ferm.adventures]

Just finished another brew on my Grainfather g30 (t500 really) and the ole controller plug melted again. This is the 4 th time.

Anyhow, are the current US 110v controllers redesigned to handle the current better? If so how. I’m debating buying an over priced g30 controller, but if it’s the same garbage, I may as well just repair again.

I got a warranty replacement like 5 years ago and was sent an identical unit, so I doubt they are replacing this one.

 

[Chorgey]

It wouldn't hurt to ask, right?

 

[Snuffy]

Are you using the cord that came with the unit and not just one from some other appliance or PC? Are you using an extension cord?

I can see how it may be possible to get a controller that has an issue and needs replacing. Once replaced, if it fails again it may be possible that there was a run of controllers with an issue and you were just unlucky enough to get another one. Failures 3 and 4 point to some other cause related to either practices or infrastructure.

I bought my G30 used with 8 brews on it and I've put 40 more on it. The controller never even gets unusually warm. I plug it directly into a 120v GFCI outlet using the OEM cord. I have an old Mash and Boil across the way on the same circuit - again directly plugged into a GFCI outlet - heating sparge water. They are the only devices on that circuit at the time. Never tripped a breaker. Never over-heated any component.

 

[Whisky River]

Maybe worth trying a repair and adding this.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/conductivecompoundkit1ml.htm

 

[Ballaratguy]

I’m in Australia (2400v) and have found that you need a 15amp lead from the control unit to the SVB to power the heater. If not the lead will overheat and melt the plug. (I’m using a50Lt Guten SVB modified to be controlled by the grainfather control box)