Grainfather Conical Fermenter Owners Thread

[OKCAg2002]

The hole in the lid is a standard 1.5" triclamp. I got one of these for closed transfers:

1.5" TC TO BALL LOCK GAS POST

You can clamp it on at the beginning of fermentation and purge sanitizer out of your keg with a ball lock jumper. Then when you're ready to keg, leave the jumper connected, run a hose from the lower valve to the liquid post of your keg, and open the valve. Bam. A closed transfer with free CO2.

Interesting. So let me get this straight. You dump the CO2 from fermentation into a keg filled with sanitizer. I would presume that the keg has a liquid line that is dumping the pushed sanitizer into a bucket. At the end of fermentation, the keg is empty of sanitizer and filled with CO2?

How do you pressurize the GFC at transfer? And I presume you'll need to dump the rest of the sanitizer from the keg by pressurizing from your CO2 bottle? Your solution sounds cheap and, honestly, brillilantly simple.

 

[Raider7296]

Correct. The CO2 from fermentation pushes the sanitizer from the keg into a bucket. Fermentation produces enough CO2 to empty the keg many times over. To get the last pint or two of sanitizer out of the keg, I'll usually just hit it with a few pounds of CO2 from my tank, flip the keg upside down over the bucket, and slowly pull the PRV. If you're careful, you'll only get about half of it on your shoes .

Now, the beer transfer only works because I've got the GFC on an equipment stand just a bit taller than the keg. Gravity does all of the work. It can take a while to fill the keg (like up to 30 minutes), but once it's flowing you can walk away and do something else.

I guess I should also mention that there's no safety valve in this system. If you pop the ball lock off the fermenter for some reason and forget about it, well... don't do that.

 

[OKCAg2002]

Correct. The CO2 from fermentation pushes the sanitizer from the keg into a bucket. Fermentation produces enough CO2 to empty the keg many times over. To get the last pint or two of sanitizer out of the keg, I'll usually just hit it with a few pounds of CO2 from my tank, flip the keg upside down over the bucket, and slowly pull the PRV. If you're careful, you'll only get about half of it on your shoes .

Now, the beer transfer only works because I've got the GFC on an equipment stand just a bit taller than the keg. Gravity does all of the work. It can take a while to fill the keg (like up to 30 minutes), but once it's flowing you can walk away and do something else.

I guess I should also mention that there's no safety valve in this system. If you pop the ball lock off the fermenter for some reason and forget about it, well... don't do that.

Do you need to purge the gas out of the keg somehow as you transfer from the keg via gravity? Or, by keeping them connected, the gas gets displaced from the keg to the fermenter?

 

[Raider7296]

Do you need to purge the gas out of the keg somehow as you transfer from the keg via gravity? Or, by keeping them connected, the gas gets displaced from the keg to the fermenter?

The latter. As gravity pulls the beer into the keg, the CO2 is pushed out the gas post of the keg into the headspace of the fermenter. Eventually you'll have a keg full of beer, and a fermenter full of CO2.

This video illustrates the whole idea pretty well:

 

[OKCAg2002]

Thanks so much! That’s super helpful and I’ll do that on my next brew. How would you dry hop in the keg? I guess you’d need to purge it with CO2 from your tank.

 

[snafferty]

As someone who's used this fermenter three times so far, I'm wondering how many people have fully positive experiences with it. I splurged for it during the Black Friday sale. For reference, I was using glass carboys, then buckets, then Fermzillas before (and continue to), although I always put my most "special" beers in the Grainfather.

Unboxing. The clamp included with the 2" connection at the bottom was bent and unusable. I had plans to figure out an oxygen free dry hop solution anyway, so I just got an extra 2" clamp at that time. I might throw this in the vise with a mallet at some point.

First use. No problems. Happy for the 1.5" TC at the top to be able to build out my custom dry hop valve.

Second use. Leak at the bottom stem of the dump valve when I was sanitizing. The o-rings (2 of which seemed like hard plastic) were broken. Ended up capping the bottom and not dumping trub during that fermentation (I put together a dry hopping assembly that allowed for pressure transfer through the top). I got the o-rings mentioned in post #52. Luckily my dry hop solution also allowed for pressure transfer from them top.

Third use (today). Things felt pretty good—no leak from the bottom. I transferred from the kettle and ended up at about 25° when I was targeting 18°. I ran my glycol chiller to get it the rest of the way there. When it finally got to temp I found my entire floor covered in leaked glycol. I thought it was this weird slot I found where base connects (picture attached). As it turns out, it was the cooling kit connector, which I hand-tighten. A good wrench tightening and the leak stopped. So I'm an idiot they're, but the idea that I immediately decided to blame Grainfather because I don't understand what's going on in since so much is nonstandard.

That's my experience to date. I have buyer's remorse from this thing. I guess a lot of people got this because it's all in one, but if you love modularity, understanding exactly what's going on, and managing it yourself, I wouldn't recommend the Grainfather conical for you.

 

[Jamkin]

Anyone used a different glycol chiller with the GF conical? Looking at the Kegland G20 but just want to make sure they’re compatible.

 

[BrewAgain]

I'm using an IceMaster Max 2. If you have the grainfather cooling kit with the pump, I used the hoses and more importantly the cable from it. The grainfather controller can control and power the pump included in that chiller. Just need a matching pair of connectors that match the cable.

 

[Jamkin]

I'm using an IceMaster Max 2. If you have the grainfather cooling kit with the pump, I used the hoses and more importantly the cable from it. The grainfather controller can control and power the pump included in that chiller. Just need a matching pair of connectors that match the cable.

Thanks for this, it sounds promising.
Which pair of connectors do you mean? Any chance you could post a photo of your set up? Cheers - appreciate your help.

 

[BrewAgain]

These are the cables from Amazon that matches the grainfather cooling pump.

(Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Copper Strands) 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable Wire, 12V 5A Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5mm, Ultra Thick) Amazon.com : (Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Copper Strands) 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable Wire, 12V 5A Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5mm, Ultra Thick) : Electronics

With the pair, they can be added in line to connect the controller directly to the pump. If you add the mate to the built in controller, the controller can be used with other setups.

 

[OKCAg2002]

Anyone try a unit like this to keep water cold in an ice chest? I currently use the GF pump to keep my ales cold in the garage, but with summer approaching I'm trying to avoid the glycol chiller for a single GF conical. This is my current set up (below). I'm thinking a little aquarium cooler could keep that water in the ice chest colder than using frozen water bottles. It would theoretically be A LOT more convenient and consistent.

 

[BrewAgain]

I looked into that setup with the idea of chilling the chilling water with that setup. The issue that kept coming up was that it was limited to the cooling capacity of the aquarium chiller. They typically won't go that close to freezing. It limits how low you could take the fermenter. It should be able to hold temp at 55 deg. But it would be hard pressed to get it to 36 deg.
If you have access to one or can find it cheap, please try.
If you need to buy it, it maybe better to do the window ac build.
Please post any updates and good luck with the build.

 

[Smudgey]

Is that a kegerator or freezer next door? Can you run lines through that to a small radiator or glycol container etc if it's just for a single fermenter? Getting an additional jacket for your fermenter may help your cause too...

 

[OKCAg2002]

Is that a kegerator or freezer next door? Can you run lines through that to a small radiator or glycol container etc if it's just for a single fermenter? Getting an additional jacket for your fermenter may help your cause too...

I’ve thought about that, too. Most of what I’ve read is that the keezer won’t be able to keep the glycol container cold enough in order to keep with the fermenter. Right now my little system works great because it hasn’t gotten above 90 yet where I live. I use two milk jugs of frozen water and it’s keeping my Kolsch at a constant 60 degrees without any issue. The little pump kit that Grainfather sells works pretty well. Now in the summer? I don’t really know how well this will work. I could always bring my fermenter indoors, but the wife prefers I keep it in the garage.

 

[franknbeans]

Does anyone happen to know the size/thread pitch of that little elbow beneath the ball valve on the very bottom of the dump valve assembly? Somehow I lost mine and will have to cobble something together as my IPA is about ready to keg. That part isn't even listed anywhere with specs!

 

[Raider7296]

I believe it's a 3/8" BSP thread.

I ordered this and this to replace the elbow with duotight fittings. This lets me use EVABarrier during transfers and gives me peace of mind. My previous setup with the elbow + silicone tubing + clamps always made me nervous that air was sneaking in.

 

[franknbeans]

I believe it's a 3/8" BSP thread.

I ordered this and this to replace the elbow with duotight fittings. This lets me use EVABarrier during transfers and gives me peace of mind. My previous setup with the elbow + silicone tubing + clamps always made me nervous that air was sneaking in.

No way! That's a hell of an idea, love it! I had a piece of 1/2" silicon with a piece of 1/4" vinyl shoved in it going to a ball lock I was afraid of seeping air into.. it wasn't a good way, but all I could figure.

 

[Smudgey]

A bit of news: I received an email udate from GF this week that they've completed a tilt-bridge-wifi conical controller. There was a bit of interest in it on the GF suggestions section on their site but it's such an obvious next step its frustrating it wasn't already on board on board last controller upgrade.. I'm looking forward to simplifying the whole online SG monitoring for sure. I haven't seen any sign of it retailing yet... (called GCAST). Has anyone heard anything more on it?

 

[shoeboo2]

A bit of news: I received an email udate from GF this week that they've completed a tilt-bridge-wifi conical controller. There was a bit of interest in it on the GF suggestions section on their site but it's such an obvious next step its frustrating it wasn't already on board on board last controller upgrade.. I'm looking forward to simplifying the whole online SG monitoring for sure. I haven't seen any sign of it retailing yet... (called GCAST). Has anyone heard anything more on it?

Looks like the GCAST is available for puchase on the website, but by the description is more geared towards connecting the G30 but has a section in the instruction manual for tilt integration. From your post description, I was hoping this was a replacement conical controller that would connect to tilt natively and display gravity which would be much more useful, similar to what my ispindel and nautilis iRelay currently give me.

 

[jschein]

Looks like the GCAST is available for puchase on the website, but by the description is more geared towards connecting the G30 but has a section in the instruction manual for tilt integration. From your post description, I was hoping this was a replacement conical controller that would connect to tilt natively and display gravity which would be much more useful, similar to what my ispindel and nautilis iRelay currently give me.

I received the GCAST last week. It is not a conical controller replacement or G30 controller replacement.
It will bridge Bluetooth to WiFi so you can control the G30 out of Bluetooth range. It will also send Tilt data to your brew session. I always had to place my iPhone on top of the GF conical to get a Tilt reading. I placed the GCAST about 4 feet from the connical. I haven’t hooked it up to the G30 yet but it will be very useful when out back cleaning stuff and can monitor from a distance.

 

[OKCAg2002]

Help! My cooling pump kit just stopped working. It’s 100 degrees for the next few days and this batch could get ruined. Is there a way to do a factory reset?

 

[BigDave1303]

I'm so glad I bought a glycol chiller a couple of years ago. Temperature here in the UK has been the hottest on record over the past week. But my system has coped well maintaining a consistent temp between 19.4c - 20c.
The setpoint is 20c so I am well impressed with it.

 

[Markdj]

These are the cables from Amazon that matches the grainfather cooling pump.

(Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Copper Strands) 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable Wire, 12V 5A Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5mm, Ultra Thick) Amazon.com : (Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Copper Strands) 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable Wire, 12V 5A Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5mm, Ultra Thick) : Electronics

With the pair, they can be added in line to connect the controller directly to the pump. If you add the mate to the built in controller, the controller can be used with other setups.

Hello

I have purchased cables as you have detailed in your post. My query relates to how does it connect to the Icemaster temperature probe socket? I have joined cables (red to red/black to black), plugged in the GFather cable with the fermenter lead, however when I plug into the Icemaster temp probe I get EE on the display and an alarm sounds. Is there something I am missing? Appreciate any advice you may be able to offer. thank you in advance..regards Mark

 

[BrewAgain]

Hi Mark
Once you splice into the pump wires in the icemaster, you don't use the icemaster temperature controller. The grainfather controls the cooling in addition to the heating.

 

[Markdj]

Hi there

. Thanks for your response.
Any chance you could share a jpeg of the splice on the Icemaster please?

Many thanks
Mark

 

[OKCAg2002]

Here’s a question for the math nerds. I want to start adding gelatin finings to the fermenter without any oxygen ingress. Here’s my plan.

I have a small soda bottle that I will pressurize to about 10 psi via a carbonation cap. I’ll then transfer the gelatin finings into the fermenter that is at 0 psi through the ball lock gas post on the lid (see picture). Also,
This will be after a cold crash of the beer. Being that the fermenter isn’t able to take pressure beyond 1 or 2 psi, will the small soda bottle introduce enough pressure on the fermenter? I can’t imagine that it would make that much difference. Obviously the head space is reduced with the finished beer, so maybe it would?

If this doesn’t really work, I will just do it in the keg. However, I would prefer to add finings to the fermenter.

This is essentially what I want to do but with the fermenter.

 

[Lothar1974]

I leave the pressure transfer kit on all the time. I just fit and remove the airlock and the solid cap that seals the unit as required.View attachment 717735

Sorry to dig up an old thread but was wondering if you could tell me what part(s) you used with the pressure transfer kit in your setup in this pic? Assuming your using some other part(s) as my GF pressure transfer looks a bit different . Thank you!

 

[waynetempro]

I have wondered how the original GF controller could have gotten out of R&D with the pogo pins connector that everyone is complaining about. In a very controlled environment, they work well. But in this situation they are asking for trouble.
I have one of these controllers that I have converted to do the equivalent of an STC-1000 box. So I have 2 questions on this:
Has anyone just bypassed the pogo pins of the original controller and just hard wired it in?
Is there any interest here for instructions on how to repurpose the controller to serve as a generic temp controller?

 

[franknbeans]

Here’s a question for the math nerds. I want to start adding gelatin finings to the fermenter without any oxygen ingress. Here’s my plan.

I have a small soda bottle that I will pressurize to about 10 psi via a carbonation cap. I’ll then transfer the gelatin finings into the fermenter that is at 0 psi through the ball lock gas post on the lid (see picture). Also,
This will be after a cold crash of the beer. Being that the fermenter isn’t able to take pressure beyond 1 or 2 psi, will the small soda bottle introduce enough pressure on the fermenter? I can’t imagine that it would make that much difference. Obviously the head space is reduced with the finished beer, so maybe it would?

If this doesn’t really work, I will just do it in the keg. However, I would prefer to add finings to the fermenter.

This is essentially what I want to do but with the fermenter.

@OKCAg2002 Have you had a chance to try this out yet? I'm curious how well it works out being these tanks cant handle much pressure.

 

[franknbeans]

So I brewed a hefeweisen this afternoon. I haven't used the conical in close to a year now. It shows being connected to wifi and the app has a green light for being active, however it's not showing or allowing me to adjust the temperature from the app. Has anyone had this issue?

 

[Jocky]

Here’s a question for the math nerds. I want to start adding gelatin finings to the fermenter without any oxygen ingress. Here’s my plan.

I have a small soda bottle that I will pressurize to about 10 psi via a carbonation cap. I’ll then transfer the gelatin finings into the fermenter that is at 0 psi through the ball lock gas post on the lid (see picture). Also,
This will be after a cold crash of the beer. Being that the fermenter isn’t able to take pressure beyond 1 or 2 psi, will the small soda bottle introduce enough pressure on the fermenter? I can’t imagine that it would make that much difference. Obviously the head space is reduced with the finished beer, so maybe it would?

If this doesn’t really work, I will just do it in the keg. However, I would prefer to add finings to the fermenter.

This is essentially what I want to do but with the fermenter.

Interested if this worked? I'm thinking it would work - the pressure is in the bottle to push out to the fermenter, but the only issue is that any pressure above the couple of psi the fermenter can handle will pop out through the lid seal.

My only comment is that I've usually found that adding gelatin tends to work a bit better when added to the keg before racking chilled beer into it. It just mixes completely that way, whereas squirting stuff into a fermenter just doesn't.