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Thanks for the info, I should run my drill a little slower.
How do you condition grain?
Can you show a pic of what the ideal crush should look like?
 
Just an aside, the “ideal” crush is one that works well with your luater system...

People have different needs so ideal crush can vary....

While simple BIAB brewers might crush finer, recirculating brewers may prefer coarser for better flow blah blah blah

Crush till your scared....nothing worse than under crush and piss poor efficiency making near beer lol
 
Here's a crush from a brew I did:

milled_barley.jpeg


You can see intact husks from the barley, some larger pieces of the internal seed, and some but not a ton of flour. This is a good crush.

Here's a crush a friend of mine got at a LHBS. Some of the barley is broken, but most is not affected. This is a terrible crush, and needs to be run through again, and perhaps the mill gap shunk.


milledbarleybadcrush.jpg


How long and what kind of conversion efficiency you achieve is dependent on a lot of things: mash temp, thickness of grist, whether you stirred or not (I do at 15- and 30-minutes), fineness of the crush, the water composition (pH, e.g.).

I used to crush w/ my barley crusher at a .020 gap; very fine flour, mostly, some larger chunks. Typically I'd have up to 90 percent conversion after about 15 minutes. I was doing BIAB.

Now I use a different mill, gap at .035. The particles are larger, and it takes longer for all the starch to gelatinize in the mash--but it still gets there, just takes longer. I'm somewhat a believer that in addition to converting starch we're also extracting flavors in the mash, so going a full hour or even 75 minutes is a standard practice for me.

The Low Oxygen folks argue that one doesn't want flour in the grist, or as little as possible. The theory, as I understand it, is those smaller particles are more subject to oxidation and thus flavor degradation. The argument makes sense, though back when I was doing BIAB and a very fine crush, I made some pretty great beers. I've been employing low-oxygen techniques myself, trying to see if those methods will produce a noticeable great-leap-forward. I've had some success, but I'm not ready to endorse the approach generally. It's a fiddly process, one that lengthens the brew day, and until I see a noticeable improvement in the beer over what I was doing.......that said, I've seen some improvement, but also struggled with some elements of it. Jury? Still out for me.
 
That “non crush” that your friend got at a LHBS is pathetic.

Truly a shame that someone would send a customer out the door with that only to waste time and effort trying to brew with it.
 
You're going to need gearing to get the RPM down and the torque up.

This drill has double gear reduction and speed control. It works quite well. My mill gap is .025", and the drill can cold start no problem with a pre-filled hopper.
 
Just now used my new CK mil set at .025. Using the High Gravity recirculating BIAB setup. I keep getting a stuck sparge. This happened last time as well with an all grain kit from my local brew shop who claims to crush at .035 (single pass).

Any thoughts on how to correct this? I would assume a coarser grind but I keep reading posts about finer grinds for BIAB. Are these folks not recirculating?
 
... mil set at .025... recirculating BIAB setup....stuck sparge.... I keep reading posts about finer grinds for BIAB. Are these folks not recirculating?

I seem to fit the profile of your question. I BIAB, I mill at .025, I do not recirculate, and I do not get stuck sparges.

I don't get stuck sparges because I don't sparge. Why would I want to sparge when I get 80+% efficiency without sparging?

Why would I bother with the expense & hassles of recirculation when I get great results without it?

Some people bring up clarity, but I get great results with a cold crash. If I wanted even more clarity I would add gelatin to my process before I'd add recirculation. But I don't need either, my clarity is fine without them.

If I did a bunch of step mashing then I might consider a recirculation system. But I don't.

There is a lot to be said for elegant simplicity. My brew days are so easy, and so enjoyable, and the beer is great.
 
I seem to fit the profile of your question. I BIAB, I mill at .025, I do not recirculate, and I do not get stuck sparges.

I don't get stuck sparges because I don't sparge. Why would I want to sparge when I get 80+% efficiency without sparging?

Why would I bother with the expense & hassles of recirculation when I get great results without it?

Some people bring up clarity, but I get great results with a cold crash. If I wanted even more clarity I would add gelatin to my process before I'd add recirculation. But I don't need either, my clarity is fine without them.

If I did a bunch of step mashing then I might consider a recirculation system. But I don't.

There is a lot to be said for elegant simplicity. My brew days are so easy, and so enjoyable, and the beer is great.

I hear ya! That is what I have been in search of for a few years now: simplicity. No reason I can't brew without recirculation with this system....but had I known that up front I could have saved a little coin I guess.
 
Spoke with Brewinabag.com folks via YouTube. It seems my setup came with a 210 micron bag and they suggest 400 for recirculating mash setups. They are making me one now. In the meantime I’m going to try another batch with a simple non-recirculating mash covered with insulation and see how that goes as well.
 
Just an aside, the “ideal” crush is one that works well with your luater system...

People have different needs so ideal crush can vary....

While simple BIAB brewers might crush finer, recirculating brewers may prefer coarser for better flow blah blah blah

Crush till your scared....nothing worse than under crush and piss poor efficiency making near beer lol
Thanks for your input.
 
I seem to fit the profile of your question. I BIAB, I mill at .025, I do not recirculate, and I do not get stuck sparges.

I don't get stuck sparges because I don't sparge. Why would I want to sparge when I get 80+% efficiency without sparging?

Why would I bother with the expense & hassles of recirculation when I get great results without it?

Some people bring up clarity, but I get great results with a cold crash. If I wanted even more clarity I would add gelatin to my process before I'd add recirculation. But I don't need either, my clarity is fine without them.

If I did a bunch of step mashing then I might consider a recirculation system. But I don't.

There is a lot to be said for elegant simplicity. My brew days are so easy, and so enjoyable, and the beer is great.
I like the way you think! Simple works well for me too!
 
You're going to need gearing to get the RPM down and the torque up.

This drill has double gear reduction and speed control. It works quite well. My mill gap is .025", and the drill can cold start no problem with a pre-filled hopper.
I used a cordless drill for my first crush, but I have a drill very similar to the one you have, so will give it a try. Need to brew a batch soon and have the ingredients for a Robust Porter.
 
Cereal killer is the best balance in quality to price for the average, dedicated home brewer. I get it, Corona mills can definitely get the job done. Its just like how people keep telling me I need to upgrade to a wilser bag, but I stubbornly stick with disposable paint strainer bags. Some people just can't be helped!
The price is right for paint strainer bags!
 
The price is right for paint strainer bags!

Yep, they will work. But...

You've invested in a grain mill, your benefits will be better efficiency and more flexibility in your brewing (grind when you want to -- not when the store is open, buy grain in bulk, etc.).

A purpose made bag also has its benefits. My Wilserbag fits my kettle perfectly. I don't need to futz with clips to hold it in place, I just cinch the drawstring tight. The fine weave of the swiss voile fabric does a much better job of filtering than the coarse weave of a paint strainer. The shape of the bag directs the drips right to the center of the kettle.

You will not regret purchasing a good bag. The cost to benefit ratio is very favorable.
 
The price is right for paint strainer bags!

Depending on how many times one uses a cheap paint strainer bag, the cost per use may actually be more using cheap bags over a better, more expensive, custom sized poly voile bag.

I drive a ten year old nissan. I love it, I've had great times in it and couldn't be happier.
That is, until I test drove a BMW.
#WONTLOOKBACK


There are advantages to a decent bag that one can appreciate after using one, sort of like the Jayjay's car analogy above, at least IMO....

sorry hijack over
 
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Depending on how many times one uses a cheap paint strainer bag, the cost per use may actually be more using cheap bags over a better, more expensive, custom sized poly voile bag.




There are advantages to a decent bag that one can appreciate after using one, sort of like the Jayjay's car analogy above, at least IMO....

sorry hijack over
I'm willing to give your bag a try, wilserbrewer.
 
The price is right for paint strainer bags!

It's not like Wilserbrewer bags are that expensive. I've got over 40 brews with mine and still going strong. How many cheep, poor fitting, paint strainer bags would I have gone thru in that time?
 
I'm willing to give your bag a try, wilserbrewer.

You won't regret it. My advice is to go ahead and get the package that also has hop bags and the ratcheting pulley lift. It is certainly more convenient than sourcing out the individual components, and the price is more than fair.
 
I have been wanting something nicer for 6 1/2 years. I took a cookie container and made a hopper extension out of it. It holds at least 7 pounds of grain. I run it with a Harbor Freight 1/2" hammer drill, hammer turned off. It is pretty adjustable and will run through the 7 pounds a lot faster than I want to go.

I am trying to justify the purchase of a Monster Mill 3 roller or even 2 roller. I can't even get to the point where I want to drop the $99 on a Cereal Killer.

I will upgrade eventually....

Well, eventually finally came. A couple months ago I got a Cereal Killer. Simple set up. I modified the milling station that held my corona mill.

I have not dialed it in fully. My efficiency has not changed. But the milling is a lot easier. With the corona my drill would have a lag in getting going then spin really fast. I would slow it down, sometimes too much and it would stop. Repeat. The Cereal Killer starts more easily and will stay running. Takes just s few minutes to chew through the average grain bill. I think at some point I will make an extension for the hopper.
 
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