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So I'm kind of in a pickle here. I really like the crankandstein 3E but the available hopper and base are ugly junk. The equivalent Monster mill costs about $60 more but the hopper is nice. How important is the stainless steel option for the MM when crushing conditioned grains? Or should I get the crankandstein and build my own base and hopper?
 
So I'm kind of in a pickle here. I really like the crankandstein 3E but the available hopper and base are ugly junk. The equivalent Monster mill costs about $60 more but the hopper is nice. How important is the stainless steel option for the MM when crushing conditioned grains? Or should I get the crankandstein and build my own base and hopper?

I don't have either of those mills but as I said earlier in the thread I have the cereal killer, which does not have stainless rollers. I have always conditioned my grain and my rollers have never had even the slightest indication of rust. I think by the time we're milling, the grain has soaked up the small amount of moisture we've added it makes no difference at all. So you'll likely be fine either way.
 
If you are worried about rust using conditioned malt, you could take about 1-2mins of extra time to make sure there is no moisture on your rollers buy just using a blow dryer on the rollers on high or medium for a couple minutes. It'll remove all the moisture that might be left behind but just like another poster said - if it's lightly wetted - much if it will be absorbed by the grain (which is what you want). You don't need to saturate it or flood the grain before milling it. It just needs wetted and then sit for a bit...it's absorbed and therefore softens the grain a tad including the all important husk...which in turn allows it to be more pliable and thus stays intact during the milling process. The SS roller version to me is selling the - don't worry about it version but depending on where that stainless steel was made and what quality it is...it may rust as well....especially if you are wetting the grain more because you know you have SS rollers.

Just something to keep in mind....personally save your money and get the non-SS roller versions and go ahead and condition your malt.....but just make sure your rollers are dry afterwards...use the blower dryer - it works.
 
Thanks Kuhndog. Do you also have a recommendation MM vs Crankandstein? I would like to order this week so I'm actively trying to get as much input as possible. :mug:

You'll probably be happy with either one. Especially if both of them worked on mills together at one point. I guess the only deciding factors would be $ and warranties/customer service.

I am a little partial to MM only because that is what our local brew shop bought as their store mill and I like it. Of course I don't like paying $2/lb for grain either...so that's why I'm went with the MM. I'll actually be ordering it here soon.
 
If you are concerned with rollers getting stuck etc, having gear driven would be the way to go. Just my 2 cents.
 
Gear motor is the way to go IMHO: lots of power, low speed, and less safety issues than with belt and pulley. However, I used to have problems with my Barley Crusher powered by gear motor. The non-driven roller would stick while the driven roller would spin. I frequently had to take it apart, clean out the barley dust and gunk in the bushings, lubricate with mineral oil, and reassemble. This kinda sucks when you're in the middle of brewing. I switch to Monster Mill with 3 rollers and a beefier frame and no problems.
 
JSP Malt mill been around for 20+ years manufacture for breweries. Bought mine used 3250 lbs run by me can't beat 10 inch rollers
image-2542409837.jpg
 
My LHBS has left a JSP mill out for customers' use for years, and I always said "whenever I but a mill, it's gonna be that model!" Pretty indestructible. And yes, I did buy that one, and am quite happy. The JSP maltmill has one adjustment screw (instead of two), which is good and bad. Good because it's so quick and easy to adjust, but bad because the gap varies a small bit across the length. But this is minimized by using rollers that are so long, and having the guards that direct the grains to mainly just the center. So this gap variance is probably just academic.
 
My LHBS has left a JSP mill out for customers' use for years, and I always said "whenever I but a mill, it's gonna be that model!" Pretty indestructible. And yes, I did buy that one, and am quite happy. The JSP maltmill has one adjustment screw (instead of two), which is good and bad. Good because it's so quick and easy to adjust, but bad because the gap varies a small bit across the length. But this is minimized by using rollers that are so long, and having the guards that direct the grains to mainly just the center. So this gap variance is probably just academic.

Mine has adjustment screws on both ends. I removed the guards on mine when I rebuilt it the hopper now is centered right between the rollers for a better feed and the gear motor has no problem starting with a full load of grain across the length of the rollers.
 
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