Got a welder, now the fun begins...

[dmfa200]

I worked with a guy like that. He could wear a fitter out, and perfect welds consistently.
I think some people are meant to do things, and his definitely was welding.

 

[Walker]

Ed....

I haven't read ALL of this, but I have read a lot of it, and I have only one comment to make.

If your wife ever finds out about JB Weld, you might be in for the beating of your life.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ed....

I haven't read ALL of this, but I have read a lot of it, and I have only one comment to make.

If your wife ever finds out about JB Weld, you might be in for the beating of your life.

And I have just one request... If you ever meet my wife... Don't tell her about JB Weld

Truth is, I think she is okay with most any hobby that keeps in the shed and out of her hair.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Ed....

If your wife ever finds out about JB Weld, you might be in for the beating of your life.

Walker, your above reply should be made into a sticky, good one.

 

[lehr]

I find that tinfoil and tape works great for a purge chamber plus I can cover more then just one fitting and it saves me time.

Pat

 

[BrewBeemer]

Cheap and fast plus easy to custom fit, thanks Pat.
BTW, got snow? Today on the island 64* dry and sunny.

 

[lehr]

Cheap and fast plus easy to custom fit, thanks Pat.
BTW, got snow? Today on the island 64* dry and sunny.

Could not get out of my drive yesterday to go to work I even got my tractor stuck and the back tires are about 6 foot tall.

Pat

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I find that tinfoil and tape works great for a purge chamber plus I can cover more then just one fitting and it saves me time.

Pat

When I built the purge in the previous posts, I started without any back gas... I thought, "How do I purge without a purge?" I bought some aluminum tape and finished the purge with it taped up. It's far, far from perfect, but I could definitely tell the difference. I definitely see where tape & foil will be useful. I found the adhesive to be a bit of a pain though when it got hot & sticky.

Ed

 

[lehr]

When I built the purge in the previous posts, I started without any back gas... I thought, "How do I purge without a purge?" I bought some aluminum tape and finished the purge with it taped up. It's far, far from perfect, but I could definitely tell the difference. I definitely see where tape & foil will be useful. I found the adhesive to be a bit of a pain though when it got hot & sticky.

Ed

You just make the tinfoil a size where the tape stays away from the heat flatten the foil so it has a small volume as not to waste gas and off you go.

Pat

 

[ScubaSteve]

So what can you guys say about welding the mesh? I tried soldering it and it was pretty much impossible using propane. Looks like Ed tack welded his; and Monti blended the weld so nicely I can't see anything. This has some great potential on a larger scale for my "brew in a basket" crusade.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

So what can you guys say about welding the mesh? I tried soldering it and it was pretty much impossible using propane. Looks like Ed tack welded his; and Monti blended the weld so nicely I can't see anything. This has some great potential on a larger scale for my "brew in a basket" crusade.

Not even sure I would even consider mine spot welded. GreenMonti didn't warn me about welding the mesh... In reality, it is a bunch of very small wires that burn REALLY easily AND, because of the mesh, the arc was jumping all over the place. This while trying not to burn the very thin edge of the cup I was welding it to. I laughed out loud at my results, it was way tougher than I expected.

Ed

 

[ScubaSteve]

Ed, on another note, I see you have a spot for ammeter/voltmeter on your panel. You can definitely TIG by just watching your puddle, but I hear a digital meter can be handy for exact settings. Is that an easy thing to add to an older unit like this? Maybe it would help with doing the mesh....

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ed, on another note, I see you have a spot for ammeter/voltmeter on your panel. You can definitely TIG by just watching your puddle, but I hear a digital meter can be handy for exact settings. Is that an easy thing to add to an older unit like this? Maybe it would help with doing the mesh....

There is a field installable meter kit (analog, not digital). But unless maybe doing completely redundant production work, I can't imagine setting the amperage at the machine and not using the remote (pedal or finger control).

Getting the puddle started, tungsten distance from the work, your travel speed, and any number of other things will pretty much force you to adjust the current on the fly.

Ed

 

[klyph]

What about placing a small piece of filler rod on top of the mesh and starting the arc on that, or putting a small stainless washer on it and rosette welding the inside hole of the washer?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

What about placing a small piece of filler rod on top of the mesh and starting the arc on that, or putting a small stainless washer on it and rosette welding the inside hole of the washer?

Maybe, I honestly don't know. Part of the problem I had was the "cup" I used is .006" thick... probably less than half the minimum recommended for my welder. I have no doubt there are guys here that could weld it, but as soon as I finally got an arc started, it either burnt the mesh or the edge of the cup.

The real problem is my lack of experience and knowledge

When I get a chance, I'm going to make another. This time, I plan to use the coupling from the top of a sanke keg as the "cup". I also plan to use the sanke's snap ring to hold the mesh in place.

Ed

 

[GreenMonti]

So what can you guys say about welding the mesh? I tried soldering it and it was pretty much impossible using propane. Looks like Ed tack welded his; and Monti blended the weld so nicely I can't see anything. This has some great potential on a larger scale for my "brew in a basket" crusade.

I've followed your build for a little while and, welding that mesh is pretty darned hard. I don't recall, how heavy is your mesh? I was asked by another HBT member about doing a basket similar to your idea. I did a couple test welds for him. I'll check and see if they are still around or if I still have the pics. I doubt it though. Each wire on the mesh I did was .010" thick.

Just imagine, when you get anywhere near the mesh. It just melts and blows away. There isn't any mass to the material to hold up to any kind of heat. I would bet that part of the issues you had during the soldering was over heating the mesh.

Also, the volts on a welder is dictated by the length of the arc. As far as I know anyway. The more close you are the less volts.

 

[GreenMonti]

Maybe, I honestly don't know. Part of the problem I had was the "cup" I used is .006" thick... probably less than half the minimum recommended for my welder. I have no doubt there are guys here that could weld it, but as soon as I finally got an arc started, it either burnt the mesh or the edge of the cup.

The real problem is my lack of experience and knowledge

When I get a chance, I'm going to make another. This time, I plan to use the coupling from the top of a sanke keg as the "cup". I also plan to use the sanke's snap ring to hold the mesh in place.

Ed

I have had some filler for you for a while now. I've been slacking and not got it in the mail to you. I have some .020 and .045 Inco wire and some Ti wire for you.

I think your doing great so far. I think your biggest problem on the purge build was a lack of gas. Like dmfa stated. The impurities will just wreak havoc on your welds. There is no way to get rid of the sugar once it has formed. Other then removing it manually. I do think .006" is a bit on the small side for a beginner but, I also think its really cool you did it. I like your thinking about keep on trying. The more you practice on the thin material, the easier it is to weld all thicknesses IMO.

Yes, foil is a nice and simple method for purging. I don't like it cause of the fact that it melts at such a low temp. If for some reason you don't keep it far enough from the weld zone, its gonna disappear.

I gotta run for now. I have to get the ribs on the grill.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

How do you know when it's time to refill your argon bottle? My pressure gauge is basically bottomed out. I once started welding and forgot to open the valve, so I know it will melt the tungsten without argon... so do you weld till the tungsten melts, or do you go by the gauge?

I tacked up a brew stand this weekend... I'll start a thead when I get a chance to take some pictures.

Ed

 

[BrewBeemer]

Ed, when you crack the bottle open the secondary or set 50 psi should come up rather quickly as well the flow meter float, if not this is a signal the end is near. You could remove the regulator from the bottle and crack the valve to get a feel what's left in pressure, you already stated the HP gauge is pinned, your "running on fumes". Big bottle baby saves you on those expensive small bottle refills.

 

[Berniep]

How do you know when it's time to refill your argon bottle? My pressure gauge is basically bottomed out. I once started welding and forgot to open the valve, so I know it will melt the tungsten without argon... so do you weld till the tungsten melts, or do you go by the gauge?

I tacked up a brew stand this weekend... I'll start a thead when I get a chance to take some pictures.

Ed

Wow you ran through that one pretty fast.
My 120 lasts me a year.
I get nervous when it gets near zero. I worry it will run out in the middle of a project on a Saturday night. I would replace it now.

 

[GreenMonti]

How do you know when it's time to refill your argon bottle? My pressure gauge is basically bottomed out. I once started welding and forgot to open the valve, so I know it will melt the tungsten without argon... so do you weld till the tungsten melts, or do you go by the gauge?

I tacked up a brew stand this weekend... I'll start a thead when I get a chance to take some pictures.

Ed

Tricky question. IMO it depends on how much welding you have to do at the moment you look at the bottle, or.........if your approaching a weekend and the supply shop is closed.

Generally, when my needle just moves, I replace it. I don't want to ever run out of gas in the middle of a weld.

Also, I didn't get time to get this down yesterday. On the topic of welding the mesh. I like to leave it a little long all the way around so it will melt back and give me some filler. I'd say that about a 1/16" proud all around would be good enough. You can leave more if you would like.

How's your gas lens holding up? No holes in the screen right?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

When I bought the 125cf bottle I have, I got it at about half the cost of some of the going prices... I got if for $185 and most of the places in my area were $300+. There is really no place too close, so I really don't want to run out in the middle of something. I'm thinking of getting this one refilled and buying a second bottle... Same way I handle propane tanks.

GM - Gas Lens is holding up fine. I like the idea of leaving the mesh a little oversized. I think it will still be a bit of a bear, but that should help.

Ed

 

[BrewBeemer]

Mine's bigger ha ha and metric also!
My last couple 250 bottle purchases of argon and C25 in 2002
ran me $194 and $168 owner owned full out the door.
I can deal with a big bottle a son age 20 lifts vs my bad back
with longer times between refills and cheaper per cu/ft refills.
I hammered on ya Ed as well others to et the largest bottles.
I still have 975# in a 260 cu/ft helium bottle I paid $35 a court
ordered auction as well a the 215 cu/ft (?) oxy for $35.
Fun with party and 4' balloons with helium, later as spare Tig or Mig
gas bottles. The 150 nitrogen will become the stout mix gas.

 

[jiggs_casey]

sweet... I know absolutely nothing about welding. I saw a 120v welder of some sort at harbor freight last week and thought, "well, that might be fun to learn with!" Then I thought better of it as again, I know nothing about and although I learn better through trial and error, it might really piss the wife and kid off if either of them walk into the kitchen only to find his bicycle handlebars attached to the fridge.

Still, it might be fun to have!

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Mine's bigger ha ha and metric also!
My last couple 250 bottle purchases of argon and C25 in 2002
ran me $194 and $168 owner owned full out the door.
I can deal with a big bottle a son age 20 lifts vs my bad back
with longer times between refills and cheaper per cu/ft refills.
I hammered on ya Ed as well others to et the largest bottles.
I still have 975# in a 260 cu/ft helium bottle I paid $35 a court
ordered auction as well a the 215 cu/ft (?) oxy for $35.
Fun with party and 4' balloons with helium, later as spare Tig or Mig
gas bottles. The 150 nitrogen will become the stout mix gas.

I called the place where I got my 125cf bottle to see what the options were. I told them I needed a refill and wsa considering another bottle. The next size up they have is a 337cf bottle. He told me he would credit the cost of the bottle I have if I wanted to trade it in on the larger one. I think I might get the 125 refilled AND get a 337cf... then I should be set for awhile.
I forgot to even ask what the price of the refill is for my 125, but he said it's $44 to refill the 337.

Ed

 

[BrewBeemer]

Dang Ed, skip the 250 go straight to 337, your refill for the 337 is way cheaper than a 250 in my area. Last refill was $94 last time as AirGas has
purchased all the LWS in my area then jacked up all the prices. Greedy crooks!
Give a 337 a hug and lift, them suckers are heavy.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Dang Ed, skip the 250 go straight to 337, your refill for the 337 is way cheaper than a 250 in my area. Last refill was $94 last time as AirGas has
purchased all the LWS in my area then jacked up all the prices. Greedy crooks!
Give a 337 a hug and lift, them suckers are heavy.

Have to do it just cause you said your's was bigger.

Not mine yet, but I think that's the way I'm gonna go. Now I just have to find a decent way to haul it in the back of my pickup without it rolling all over the place.

Ed

 

[GreenMonti]

Have to do it just cause you said your's was bigger.

Not mine yet, but I think that's the way I'm gonna go. Now I just have to find a decent way to haul it in the back of my pickup without it rolling all over the place.

Ed

A couple small pieces of good size angle iron attached by some flat bar and you'll have a simple and easy cradle to lay the bottle into. You could even wrap a ratchet strap around it to really lock it in there.

Kinda like this one. If I find the one I'm thinking of I post up the link.
http://www.industrialstoragedepot.c...as-cylinder-rack-holds-4-cylinders-p-136.html

Edit,
Another example of what I'm trying to say.
http://www.usasafety.com/gas-cylinder-wall-bracket-1-cylinder-p-28.html

 

[BrewBeemer]

Have to do it just cause you said your's was bigger.

Not mine yet, but I think that's the way I'm gonna go. Now I just have to find a decent way to haul it in the back of my pickup without it rolling all over the place.

Ed

http://www.airgas.com/content/details.aspx?id=7000000000234

That 300 bottle is heavy, 132# watch the back.
I set the bottle on top of the 3/4" rubber bed cover, bed side padded then the bottle tied off three bed stake pockets to one side with motorcycle tie downs straps. If three straps rated at 1,200# each all break the bottle is least my worries.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I made a craddle to lay the bottle on in the bed with some 2x4 scraps.
I'll strap the cylinder to the craddle, then I just have to worry about strapping it to keep it in the bottom of the bed.

Ed