Goose Island Matilda

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Gear101

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Location
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Recipe Name: Matilda
Brewed On: N/A


Batch Size (Gal): 6.00
Est. IBU: 31.1
Est. OG: 1.063 Plato: 15.38


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
78.4 10.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) Belgium 1.037 3
7.8 1.00 lbs. Wheat Malt Belgium 1.038 2
3.9 0.50 lbs. CaraMunich 40 France 1.034 40
9.8 1.25 lbs. Brown Sugar (dark) Generic 1.046 60

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 oz. Czech Saaz Whole 3.50 10.2 60 min.
1.00 oz. Styrian Goldings Whole 3.90 11.4 60 min.
0.50 oz. Styrian Goldings Whole 3.90 4.4 30 min.
1.00 oz. Czech Saaz Whole 3.50 5.1 15 min.


Extras

Amount Name Type Time
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 Unit(s)Whirlfloc Fining 5 Min.(boil)


Yeast
-----

Wyeast 3522 Belgian Ardennes for primary and Wyeast 5112 Brettanomyces Bruxellensis for a secondary


Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Multi Step

Grain Lbs: 11.50
Water Qts: 23.00 - Before Additional Infusions
Water Gal: 5.75 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 2.00 - Before Additional Infusions

Acid Rest Temp : 0 Time: 0
Protein Rest Temp : 121 Time: 20
Intermediate Rest Temp : 140 Time: 15
Saccharification Rest Temp : 160 Time: 25
Mash-out Rest Temp : 168 Time: 15
Sparge Temp : 166 Time: 60

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.
 
Any words of advise berfore I try this clone, I now have enough GI Matilda bottles to do fivr gallons, so I'll be able to let the beer rest inside of them for over a year.
 
I would either use light brown sugar, or just cane/beet sugar. I think dark brown sugar might make the beer a little too dark.

Sacc rest seems too high to me, I'd probably do 150ish -155max.

Other than that, looks tasty.

I've had a few of these that were young, and a few that were over two years old. Let these age as long as you can stand. It'll be worth it.
 
agree, I have had 2008-2011 bottles of the beer, the more the aging of this beer the better
 
I brewed a Matilda clone earlier this year (see THIS thread)

Similar recipe, but used Brett L. I found mine not to be a full bodied or sweet as the original. very nice flavor. Close to the original. I think I will try this one again as I love Matilda.
 
well that alot of help, thanks for the link. I might cut the brown sugar back a little if not all of it.
 
NP. Looking at my notes from that brew, it appears that I did add 1LB of home made light candi syrup (see below for the recipe or search for the thread on making Belgian Candi Syrup). Somehow that part doesn't appear in my ingredients list, though! I think that may have helped contribute to drying out my beer. My plan for next time I brew this would be to mash higher, and try Brett B instead of Brett L (I don't know how that will affect things, but there seems to be agreement that GI uses Brett B).



LIGHT SYRUP

The procedure for making the syrups starts with 2 lbs of sugar, a varied amount of Di-Ammonium Phosphate (DAP Yeast Nutrient), and 1 cup of water. You bring these three ingredients to a boil over medium heat. You do not want to stir, the gentle convection will do all the mixing that is necessary. Using a thermometer, stop the boil at the desired terminal temperature by adding a varied amount of water while gently stirring the solution. This is the dangerous part, a fair amount of spitting and sputtering might occur. After adding the water you will need to dissolve the syrup by stirring gently until the solution reaches the stage called soft ball (240F). This is when the syrup is done. Stop the cooking by submerging the pan in cool water or by transferring the syrup to a preheated mason jar.

Light (260F)
-Apricot colored with mild flavors reminiscent of peaches and white grape juice. Some very mild warm flavors like soft rounded vanilla.
2 Lbs Sugar
1 Cup Water
1 tsp DAP
3/4 Cup Water
 
confused, I understand what you are making there, but the water is listed twice?
 
the real question that I have is, would it be a good plan to let it set in the primary for a month than into the secondary with the brett b for another three to four months, than off tot he bottles to rest for the next year?
 
So, in making the Candi Syrup you add the first volume of water and bring it up to temp then add the second volume of water to knock it down. for some of the darker syrups (like D2)you do a few cycles of getting it to temp then adding some water to knock down the temp then bring it back up to temp and do it again. I think for the light sugar it is just one cycle, Some say that the second addition will also keep it from crystallizing if you make this ahead of time and store it.

As far as when to add the Brett, I added Brett and yeast at the same time. I have read a lot about brett use (though only have limited first hand experiences). People do everything from pitch the brett first and give it a few days head-start before pitching the yeast(the theory is that Brett *can* grow slower, so if you want it really funky do this), to pitch at the same time (this is what I did, and it has about the same level of funk as GI's Matilda), to primary with yeast and add Brett to the secondary (will be less funky...lots of people say that Brett won't super attenuate without lacto or pedio bugs present, so it is competing for the same sugars as the yeast, to finally adding Brett at bottling (like Orval). over time it should get funky, but perhaps not as funky as other methods above.

I don't think there is a wrong answer, and there is lots of conflicting information out there. I think you will come out with a good beer no matter what.
 
For those interested (and are search averse) here are the threads on making Belgian Candi Syrup:

THIS thread is incredibly helpful...it has gotten VERY long, but is extremely informative. the "color chart" about 4 pages in is very interesting. Many thanks to SnickASaurusRex and others for the contributions!


Not really relevant to this thread, but If you are interested in making the very dark D2 Syrup look HERE
 
so my thoughts of a month or two between the two pitches isn't a good idea then. I am trying my best to come out with a dead on clone.
 
I brewed a Matilda clone that was off a little on the malt bill, but nailed everything else. I pitched the yeast and let it go for 3 weeks and then moved to a better bottle and pitched Orval dregs. A year later it was perfect.
 
So you bottled it with the Orval into the bottles in three weeks, as someone that only been up to this for about a year, would that not be the right way, becasue i hahve read alittle about this.
 
No, I pitched Orval dregs (2 bottles) into a secondary after an initial 3 week fermentation. Secondary was a Better Bottle, and let it sit like that for a year before bottling.
 
cool that is what i was looking for, I am thinking about doing the same. Thanks
 
I was thinking about getting one of these
Austin Homebrew Supply

And let it set in there for a year or maybe even the bigger one, think there's a 25 gallon one at the pet shop
 
Just my personal opinion, but for long term aging I would only use either steel (keg) or a glass carboy. Plastics are oxygen permeable, and if you're waiting a year for your beer, I'd hate to see it get oxidized because of the vessel.

Of course, YMMV, etc.
 
I wouldn't age it in a bucket. I've aged numerous sour beers in Better Bottles and never had an issue with oxidation. Mike at themadfermtationist.com & OldSock on here uses Better Bottles and he's well known for his aged/sour beers.
 
well got everything for the LHBS but the Brett... but I had already talked to them about that and knew it was a speical order. Brewing this, american ale(from one of the mods here) and a Big B Ale..
 
first try today.. everything looked good until the OG was off.
 
Well going to give this another try tomorrow, I made the starter about three days ago. Hope this time it turns out better, I drank all the other beer, it was pretty good, but didn't want to wait over a year to find out it wasn't right. Now just thinking to myself I might just want to brew beer and not clone things anymore. LOL
 
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