Going Electric

[sillbeer]

I received my 5500W 240V heating element from Bobby M tonight and wired it up. I'm dropping my brew kettle off at a shop tomorrow to have the 2" tri-clamp fitting tiged in and I should be good to go. I'm just waiting on my false bottom from Jaybird and I'll be rocking. Hopefully I can squeeze a brew day in sometime in the next two weeks.

 

[30Bones]

Haven't researched the HG stuff much, but maybe you can answer my questions. Why 2 110V plugs when there is only one switch? What the potentiometer on the side for the boil? Why not just use the PID? How do you switch from PID to potentiometer?

 

[Bellybuster]

i believe the potentiometer circuit runs in series with the PID. it gives you linear boil control. I wish my system had it although I would run a separate switched circuit for it. Controlling boil with the PID (%) works but is a pain in the ass. Turning a dial is easy as that
I would guess the second 110 outlet is always on

 

[Bellybuster]

Sillbeer... you're gonna love electric brewing!!!!

 

[30Bones]

i believe the potentiometer circuit runs in series with the PID. it gives you linear boil control. I wish my system had it although I would run a separate switched circuit for it. Controlling boil with the PID (%) works but is a pain in the ass. Turning a dial is easy as that
I would guess the second 110 outlet is always on

Be nice if they stated that in the description. Unsure how that would work with the PID and potentiometer working in sync????

 

[Bellybuster]

once again I'm making assumptions but with the SSVR in series down range of the SSR it will control the full power from the PID being set at 100%. During PID use the potentiometer needs to be full on. I guess it could work the same ahead of the SSR but......
Regardless, the more elegant solution would be able to switch between SSR/PID or the boil control. The above method is cheaper by some wire and a switch.

 

[MikeSkril]

I received my 5500W 240V heating element from Bobby M tonight and wired it up. I'm dropping my brew kettle off at a shop tomorrow to have the 2" tri-clamp fitting tiged in and I should be good to go. I'm just waiting on my false bottom from Jaybird and I'll be rocking. Hopefully I can squeeze a brew day in sometime in the next two weeks.

How much did you pay for that?

 

[sillbeer]

How much did you pay for that?

The controllers are still on sale at 20% off from high gravitybrew.com $395
The heating element from brewhardware.com was $41
Element guard kit from still dragon.com was $36
L6-30 connector from Lowes was $19.98
10/3 wire from Lowes was about $1.80 per foot

You can build a controller for cheaper but I don't have the time or desire to learn how to build one. After doing a little research this one fit my needs the best.

 

[sillbeer]

Haven't researched the HG stuff much, but maybe you can answer my questions. Why 2 110V plugs when there is only one switch? What the potentiometer on the side for the boil? Why not just use the PID? How do you switch from PID to potentiometer?

I can't answer your question about the 2 110v plugs, I haven't even plugged it in yet but it makes sense that one is always hot. The knob on the side adjusts how fast the element heats up to the desired temp. The temp is set and displayed on the panel.

 

[30Bones]

I can't answer your question about the 2 110v plugs, I haven't even plugged it in yet but it makes sense that one is always hot. The knob on the side adjusts how fast the element heats up to the desired temp. The temp is set and displayed on the panel.

Interesting, all PIDs I have been around function with percentage to get to your desired temp. That potentiometer to me seems unnecessary.

 

[Bellybuster]

The potentiometer is a nice addition. The PID is set at 100% then the pot knob is rotated to give your desired boil.
I fully plan on adding this to my controller as well as pump control.

 

[30Bones]

It's just not needed is my point.

 

[doug293cz]

It's just not needed is my point.

With peoples' hobbies, want is often more important than need, and that's the way it should be.

Brew on

 

[30Bones]

With peoples' hobbies, want is often more important than need, and that's the way it should be.

Brew on

Understand that, but this is a commercial product that could be done cheaper the way I am seeing it. trust me I am all for building weird **** that serves zero purpose

 

[zgja2]

It's just not needed is my point.

I have this same panel and

1. the boil control is so fast and easy. When you are about to have a boil over, turning a knob is a hell of a lot faster than mashing buttons.
2. I recirculate to maintain mash temps. Turning the power to the element down avoids overshooting set temp.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[sillbeer]

I have this same panel and

1. the boil control is so fast and easy. When you are about to have a boil over, turning a knob is a hell of a lot faster than mashing buttons.
2. I recirculate to maintain mash temps. Turning the power to the element down avoids overshooting set temp.

Just my 2 cents.

That's what I was thinking. It's probably handy to help maintain a specific temp and not overshoot.

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't know anything about the HG panel but if it is true that the SSVR is in series with the PID controlled SSR, it's a good design. People are constantly dismissing the feature off hand without really thinking about it. Just because a PID can be cycled into manual mode doesn't mean it does the job particularly well. Many PIDs such as the Aubers are based on a long 2 second cycle. 50% power is 100% on for one full second. Having a throttle that acts outside of the PID is good stuff when you want to limit the power during mash control such as BIAB rigs and RIMS. I'm also warming up to the idea that a knob is more intuitive for boil control than up and down arrows. Even though I don't think it's particularly difficult to change a PID's output, it's not fast by any means. SSVRs are pretty cheap but the down side is a non linear control curve. The auber Power Regulator would be better but that's a $40 premium.

 

[cod3ck]

I don't know anything about the HG panel but if it is true that the SSVR is in series with the PID controlled SSR, it's a good design. People are constantly dismissing the feature off hand without really thinking about it. Just because a PID can be cycled into manual mode doesn't mean it does the job particularly well. Many PIDs such as the Aubers are based on a long 2 second cycle. 50% power is 100% on for one full second. Having a throttle that acts outside of the PID is good stuff when you want to limit the power during mash control such as BIAB rigs and RIMS. I'm also warming up to the idea that a knob is more intuitive for boil control than up and down arrows. Even though I don't think it's particularly difficult to change a PID's output, it's not fast by any means. SSVRs are pretty cheap but the down side is a non linear control curve. The auber Power Regulator would be better but that's a $40 premium.

I went the cheap route so I use an SSVR with a pot and it works like a champ for boils! Being able to quickly throttle the heat is a HUGE step up from propane (and it keeps my basement floor from having hot wort spilled all over). Only downside with the SSVR/pot is easily overshooting my target temps for mash and sparging...

When I do build out a nice full size panel, the SSVR with the pot will be my weapon of choice for the boil kettle (with the pid's on the HLT and RIMS MT).

 

[sillbeer]

Picked up the kettle and dropped the false bottom in. I need to cut a small piece out of the bottom bracing so the false bottom will sit evenly over the element. Other than that, I'm ready for my practice run this weekend. It might turn into a regular brew day.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

I love my Jaybird false bottom!

 

[atoughram]

the SSVR with the pot will be my weapon of choice for the boil kettle (with the pid's on the HLT and RIMS MT).

Precisely the way mine is setup and I love it.

While the SSVR may not be linear, my ammeter is, and I know that 13 gallons will stay at a rolling boil without boilover at 15-17 amps on a 5500 watt element.

 

[elerten]

I have the same controller. The dial on the side is probably the thing I use the most. If you have 15 gallons about to foam over you can get it under control in a hurry with the knob, then right back up after it breaks.

 

[30Bones]

I admit defeat, glad it works for everyone. Maybe I will incorporate it into my current build, I have one I am not using at the moment

 

[sillbeer]

I did a test run tonight with 5 gallons of PBW through my pump, plate chiller, and back into the top for about 30 minutes at a slow boil then ran a few gallons of fresh water through it. Everything ran smoothing. I was surprised how quick the temperature came up and it was quiet.

 

[sillbeer]

I'll try my favorite Murphy's Stout clone tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

[thekraken]

Just because a PID can be cycled into manual mode doesn't mean it does the job particularly well. Many PIDs such as the Aubers are based on a long 2 second cycle. 50% power is 100% on for one full second.

Just curious, in your opinion what are some of the problems with this? (I'm mainly curious in regard to boil)

 

[Bobby_M]

It doesn't work badly, just not ideal. The adjustment of the power does take some time because you have to press either the up or down arrow once, wait about 1 second to have it enter set mode and then push or hold down the arrows to adjust. It's not suitable for an emergency boil over event. For example, I'll set it on 100% output to reach boil quickly, then when it's about to boil I drop it down to 65%. To save a boil over event I either have to start sooner or hit my "element off" kill switch, then take my time setting the power before turning it back on again. All controllers would benefit from a positive "OFF" on the element circuit so it's not that big of a deal. However, a quick knob is very intuitive after years of using a kitchen stove.

 

[augiedoggy]

Just curious, in your opinion what are some of the problems with this? (I'm mainly curious in regard to boil)

I Have been told the cycle time can be turned down to 1 on the auber pids from the default of 2 can anyone confirm this?

My cheaper mypin TD4 pids come that way by default... It would be ironic if the mypins really do have this edge over the more expensive Auber units.
If I set my pid to 50% in manual mode its on for 50% or EACH second which would allow much tighter control over the element power vs pulsing every 2 seconds.

 

[augiedoggy]

It doesn't work badly, just not ideal. The adjustment of the power does take some time because you have to press either the up or down arrow once, wait about 1 second to have it enter set mode and then push or hold down the arrows to adjust. It's not suitable for an emergency boil over event. For example, I'll set it on 100% output to reach boil quickly, then when it's about to boil I drop it down to 65%. To save a boil over event I either have to start sooner or hit my "element off" kill switch, then take my time setting the power before turning it back on again. All controllers would benefit from a positive "OFF" on the element circuit so it's not that big of a deal. However, a quick knob is very intuitive after years of using a kitchen stove.

To avoid all of this, I set my pid to 207 degrees and then when the alarm goes off I switch it to manual mode BEFORE the boilover could happen... it works well. I have seen how to switch and set manual mode on the auber units and it is more labor intensive than doing so on the mypin which is fairly easy once you know how.

 

[cod3ck]

However, a quick knob is very intuitive after years of using a kitchen stove.

Intuitive controls always get my vote. Especially when Murphy shows up...

 

[thekraken]

However, a quick knob is very intuitive after years of using a kitchen stove.

Whelp, good thing my controller uses a rotary encoder

 

[Bobby_M]

To avoid all of this, I set my pid to 207 degrees and then when the alarm goes off I switch it to manual mode BEFORE the boilover could happen... it works well. I have seen how to switch and set manual mode on the auber units and it is more labor intensive than doing so on the mypin which is fairly easy once you know how.

Agreed with the sub boil temp setpoint. That's how I do it but I still like having a kill switch on the element. The Mypin sounds like a superior PID to the Auber in a few ways. I have one new in box just but I decided to put a Brew-Boss board into my next control box.

 

[augiedoggy]

Agreed with the sub boil temp setpoint. That's how I do it but I still like having a kill switch on the element. The Mypin sounds like a superior PID to the Auber in a few ways. I have one new in box just but I decided to put a Brew-Boss board into my next control box.

One of these days I will Buy an auber unit just to make sure there isnt some advantage I'm missing but I have no complaints on the mypins other than the directions are terrible.

 

[sillbeer]

I am still enjoying the High Gravity EBC-SV. Zero complaints. It holds temps really well and I'm getting use to the rheostat. EBIAB is awesome. I've been cutting down on 2 hours each brew day pretty easy. I had a couple home brewers over two weekends ago and they were both impressed with the process.