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All the cheap stuff I bought when I started my electric build is sitting in a box...... Get decent stuff to start with and say yourself some money.
 
With most things : do it right or do it twice, buy once cry once etc. etc.
 
If you price those items individually bought from a reputable source. You are not really saving any money. The PID, RTD, and heat sink are not the problem. I would never ever buy an unbranded SSR. OR a Fotek SSR ever...ever...ever! They could cost you a whole lot more not if they burn up but when they burn up.
 
My 2 cents.
I've had a MYPIN TD4 SNR for a year now and it seems to work very well. The TD4 has the manual mode that allows you to adjust the duty cycle during the boil. Not all PIDs have this function. I initially purchased the TA4 without knowing this little tidbit of information. It was promptly returned for the TD4. Also, spend the extra $10 to $20 on a RTD sensor. I couldn't get the cheap K thermocouples to maintain calibration. Lots of information on here regarding the Fortek SSRs. I guess I lucked out. The two I purchased are still working. But, I am replacing them soon because of the uncertainty.
 
Ive used 4 mypins over the years and find they are very reliable.
the TD4-snr is perfect as it has both Fahrenheit as well as manual pwm mode for a smooth controlled boil. the inkbid ivh-106 also has these features however im not sure anyone has been able to get the manual mode to work with it.
 
Thanks for the info, with a little more searching I did find a lot more options of higher quality, and now I know what to look for specifically.
 
Berme branded SSRs are the best value I've found.($5 shipped on eBay) They are more reliable than the foteks which are a crapshoot. The berme ones appear to be made by MGR along with a large number of other rebranded variants like mager,kodak,ebrew and auberins branded ones. These all have a good reputation for reliability.
As far as rtds I would spend the extra $5 on pt100 sensors with disconnects at both ends of the cable. I damaged a few super cheap ones while moving to clean before doing this myself.
 
Thanks for the info once again! Definitely looking up the Berme SSR's. I'm working on a 2 burner ( HLT & Kettle) that I will control with the EZ Boil DSPR 120. If I add a few blocks to the selector switch I'll be able to switch the Pt100's as well as power to either element. A few more things to find & then order frenzy & build time!
 
I'd rather go for the Sestos than the Rex. I've used two of them for four or five years now, still works.
 
I'd rather go for the Sestos than the Rex. I've used two of them for four or five years now, still works.
Does that PID have Fahrenheit temperature readout? I believe the inkbird pids are made by the same oem company that makes the sestos branded Ones based upon the fact that they use the same enclosure and face just a different sticker. I may be wrong however
 
I agree the rex is the bottom of the barrel it was the first PID I bought very limited functionality and of course it was a fake clone as most are on Amazon and eBay the easy way to tell is they are supposedly made in Japan and if you're ordering it from a seller in China, well you do the math
 
Does that PID have Fahrenheit temperature readout? I believe the inkbird pids are made by the same oem company that makes the sestos branded Ones based upon the fact that they use the same enclosure and face just a different sticker. I may be wrong however
Didn't think about that. AFAIK it does only C unfortunately. Some quick googling didn't mention F either.
 
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