Gas in on the liquid side????

[akthor]

I was reading about diffusing stones and got to thinking. When carbing a keg why wouldn't you hook the gas to the liquid post? Seems that the co2 dribbling up from the bottom thru the liquid would be more efficient that the gas just sitting on top??? If the post doesn't accept the disconnect could you just swap posts? I am sure there are pros and cons but I carb my kegs in about 5 or 6 days, mostly because I have to use a cooler and water and put frozen bottles of water in it.

SO I do the 30 psi for 36 hrs and then purge and 12psi for 3 or 4 days then I put it to 30psi and store the keg. Won't be a big deal to do a set and forget method when I score a cheap fridge or freezer to use as a kegerator. But for now looking for more efficient methods just to save me time and work ie: hauling frozen bottles back and forth

Not trying to carb faster to be able to drink faster I realize the beer is better if it conditions a bit after carbing.

 

[Bumbler]

They actually sell a device that does exactly what you are talking about.

Follow the bouncing post.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/carbonation-stone-199936/

 

[akthor]

Oh yeah I have seen the stones but I am wondering about this method until I can maybe get a stone?

 

[SweetSounds]

It'll help a little. Not a lot. The CO2 will come out of the dip tube in huge (compared to a stone, enormous!) bubbles, and spend very little time in contact with the beer on their way up the keg.

Switch to a black disconnect on your CO2 line. It's a lot easier than trying to swap posts around. That's why I use MFL disconnects on all my hoses...

Alternatively, you can just flip the keg over and leave everything hooked up the way it was. Assuming your keg is sealed.

If I'm in a hurry I'll just crank the pressure on the cold keg, sit it on the lip of the keezer, and rock it back and forth like a teeter-totter for a while.
No extra plumbing necessary.

 

[akthor]

When you rock it how quick can you get it carbed?

It'll help a little. Not a lot. The CO2 will come out of the dip tube in huge (compared to a stone, enormous!) bubbles, and spend very little time in contact with the beer on their way up the keg.

Switch to a black disconnect on your CO2 line. It's a lot easier than trying to swap posts around. That's why I use MFL disconnects on all my hoses...

Alternatively, you can just flip the keg over and leave everything hooked up the way it was. Assuming your keg is sealed.

If I'm in a hurry I'll just crank the pressure on the cold keg, sit it on the lip of the keezer, and rock it back and forth like a teeter-totter for a while.
No extra plumbing necessary.

 

[ArcaneXor]

When you rock it how quick can you get it carbed?

If the beer is cold, it's a matter of a few minutes.

 

[akthor]

So I can put the beer in the keg, put it in the ice bath, when the keg is cold (overnight lets say) Crank the PSI to?????? 30? Then rock it (for how long a few isn't very exact) then take the keg out of the ice bath and set it aside for a couple weeks. Then chill it down again before hooking it up at serving pressure? Would this work?

 

[JonK331]

I was reading about diffusing stones and got to thinking. When carbing a keg why wouldn't you hook the gas to the liquid post? Seems that the co2 dribbling up from the bottom thru the liquid would be more efficient that the gas just sitting on top???

Yes! One of the guys at my LHBS recommended this when I needed to carb really fast for a party. It does work much faster. Just use the black "out" disconnect hooked up to your gas. Works well but not as well as a carb stone.

 

[ArcaneXor]

So I can put the beer in the keg, put it in the ice bath, when the keg is cold (overnight lets say) Crank the PSI to?????? 30? Then rock it (for how long a few isn't very exact) then take the keg out of the ice bath and set it aside for a couple weeks. Then chill it down again before hooking it up at serving pressure? Would this work?

Seems kind of pointless. Set it aside for a couple of weeks first (if the beer still needs some time to condition), then carb it up when you want to drink it.
"A few minutes" isn't very exact because shake-carbing isn't an exact science. It's very easy to overdo it. Refer to the sticky: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/keg-force-carbing-methods-illustrated-73328/ for more information.

 

[akthor]

I have read that the beer needs to be carbed to really condition? Right or wrong?

Seems kind of pointless. Set it aside for a couple of weeks first (if the beer still needs some time to condition), then carb it up when you want to drink it.
"A few minutes" isn't very exact because shake-carbing isn't an exact science. It's very easy to overdo it. Refer to the sticky: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/keg-force-carbing-methods-illustrated-73328/ for more information.

 

[Yooper]

I have read that the beer needs to be carbed to really condition? Right or wrong?

Completely wrong.

 

[SweetSounds]

You're wasting your time if you're going to "Set it aside for a couple of weeks"

If you're going to let it set for 2 weeks, just hook it up to the gas! It'll carb on its own by then. No special plumbing or shaking necessary.

To answer your other question, I rock it for a couple minutes. Tip it towards the top, wait for the bubbles to stop, tip it back, repeat.
But I've also overshot the carbonation several times when I've tried this.

If the beer is cold, it'll carb all on it's own if you hook it up to serving pressure for 2 weeks. If it's at room temp, you'll need more pressure, but the same applies. Hook it up and leave it.

 

[akthor]

Paranoid about leaks I guess.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

It'll help a little. Not a lot. The CO2 will come out of the dip tube in huge (compared to a stone, enormous!) bubbles, and spend very little time in contact with the beer on their way up the keg.

Switch to a black disconnect on your CO2 line. It's a lot easier than trying to swap posts around. That's why I use MFL disconnects on all my hoses...

Alternatively, you can just flip the keg over and leave everything hooked up the way it was. Assuming your keg is sealed.

If I'm in a hurry I'll just crank the pressure on the cold keg, sit it on the lip of the keezer, and rock it back and forth like a teeter-totter for a while.
No extra plumbing necessary.

If you flip or shake the keg while connected to co2, make sure you have a check valve in the co2 line or keep the keg well below your regulator. If beer runs into the regulator through the co2 line, you have big problems with the regulator.

 

[SweetSounds]

Good catch