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Full port barb fittings?

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ScubaSteve

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Okay, I bought some 1/2" SS barb fittings from KLG stainless, and while i have absolutely nothing bad to say about the business, the barb fittings are severely restricted. The ID is 3/8", maybe even 1/4"....mainly because the wall is so thick. Usually sturdiness is a good thing, but i don't want to sacrifice flow.

Does anyone know of a source of affordable stainless "wide-mouth" barb fittings? I checked at buyfittingsonline (another awesome vendor) but the pics don't show a whole lot. :mug:
 
http://mainlandvalveandfitting.com/

Just email them and tell them what you want. The online store is a farily crappy ebay store that lacks cricitical details about the parts.

If you email them, they will get back to you promptly. Their prices are pretty good, too.

1/2" stainless barbs, described as "full flow", for $3.50
 
Ah! I found my email from the guy (Tim White) that owns the place.

I had asked about 1/2" barbs because I couldn't identify on the ebay store whether the parts were what I wanted.

He sent me links to two different barbs on ebay so that I could purchase from ebay if I wanted to.


I have two types of hose barb fittings. Both can accommodate ½” ID hose. The hex type is considered full flow and is 316S/S. Please review both and make you selection.
304S/S - $3.25 EACH http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200435984749&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
316S/S - $3.49 EACH http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200435987759&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

I ended up placing my order via email and just having them invoice me through paypal.

I really like this guy and have no plans to purchase stainless from anyone else unless I need something he doesn't have.

Combined shipping on all the parts to build a stainless 1.5" diameter RIMS tube as well as a couple dozen 1/2" couplings came to about $10 I think.
 
last post here, I promise.

I was worried about flow on barbs in general, and wasn't stuck on having stainless, so I actually ended up just using 1/2" threaded copper fittings and stretching my hose over them and clamping them down.

WIDE. OPEN. CONNECTIONS.
 
Yeah, I've considered using just a close nipple too....just like the camlocks; you're probably on to something. I may just go that route!
 
This has been a problem early on. Finding a reliable source of quality machined full flow hose barbs is not a simple thing.

I've purchased many of my competitors sets to see what parts are being used and my current source of hose barbs is the largest ID I can find for the money.


Edited for clarity.
 
MoreBeer used to have some great ones but they changed suppliers. Tubing barely fit on the barb, you really had to work it on. The current crop looks the same as the KLG Stainless supplier. I haven't had any luck finding any as good yet.

16351995.jpg

29868987.jpg
 
Here is a comparison of what we carry compared to the competition:

Ours has a larger hose shank. 1/2" ID silicone tubing has to be pushed onto ours.
The ID is larger. The competitor's barb is loose inside the 1/2" ID tubing.

barb3.jpg

barb4.jpg
 
cool bargain thanks for the info =) I'm not sure what I need as of yet... because I want QD too.... I gotta figure it out... got the kegs... getting the stand....
 
yeah, I put 1/2" males on the lathe, turned the threads off and the silicone hose goes right over it. Full flow. Could be done with a grinder too.
 
I ended up going with 1.5" triclover x 3/4" barb. These are FULL flow, really wide barbs. Much more expensive than buying a nipple, but I already had triclovers and was going to have to use a 1.5: TC x 3/4" FPT adapter PLUS buy a nipple. It was the cheapest and cleanest option for me. FWIW, elsewhere in my rig, I plan on buying a few 3/4" x 1.5" SS nipples and grinding one end down.
 
Okay, I bought some 1/2" SS barb fittings from KLG stainless, and while i have absolutely nothing bad to say about the business, the barb fittings are severely restricted. The ID is 3/8", maybe even 1/4"....mainly because the wall is so thick. Usually sturdiness is a good thing, but i don't want to sacrifice flow.

Does anyone know of a source of affordable stainless "wide-mouth" barb fittings? I checked at buyfittingsonline (another awesome vendor) but the pics don't show a whole lot. :mug:

Hey guys, what about these beauties!!??

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html

Best ones I've seen yet in this size. Just sayin'..................

Cheers! :mug:

John
 
I understand wanting full flow to reduce overall system head loss to friction...however...don't we usually just choke down flow with the valve anyway? On the MLT during sparge or when running a pump I never hear of people cranking things wide open, so isn't the full flow concern everyone seems to toss out somewhat moot? If I am way off base, please enlighten me so I don't buy the wrong stuff in a few months!
 
During your main process of mashing, you'll dial down the pump.....but for transferring, whirlpooling, chilling, and cleaning, it can be helpful to let the juice loose ;) Plus, 3/4" is the new 1/2" :D
 
hrm makes me wonder at about barbs I just got flow seemed kinda slow when I leak tested my newly soldered coupling , valve and barb.

-=jason=-
 
hrm makes me wonder at about barbs I just got flow seemed kinda slow when I leak tested my newly soldered coupling , valve and barb.

-=jason=-

Every restriction within the system adds up to reduced GPM flow add internal tube friction, bad enough with a 100% 1/2" ID system dealing with only a 1/25 hp pump to begin with.
 
hrm makes me wonder at about barbs I just got flow seemed kinda slow when I leak tested my newly soldered coupling , valve and barb.

-=jason=-


Jason,

Depends on how deep the water was and if you had a piece of tubing on the barb. The lower the water was, the slower it will drain.
 
Hell, I was drunk when I started this thread. I was just joking....I just wanted to see what you guys would say :mug:
 
Jason,

Depends on how deep the water was and if you had a piece of tubing on the barb. The lower the water was, the slower it will drain.

ahh water level was just barely above my coupling for my leak test. makes sense more water equals more pressure and better flow.

-=Jason=-
 
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