From "OK" to "Wow"....how to get there

[Horseflesh]

Having control does you no good if you don't know what to do with it. I find this fascinating since the reading I've done is always along the lines of ferment between x and y with the range typically being around 10 degrees.

For any yeast strain you can probably find a thread discussing fermentation temperature, and how flavor changes as you move through that strain's optimum range. This is part of my recipe research, every time.

I really like using a small fridge and external controller like the Inkbird. I'm fermenting a beer right now, and it will be locked in at 66F for 3 weeks and I don't have to lift a finger. That's... that's as important as having a nice kettle. It's a big deal!

I cannot imagine brewing with tubs of ice or swamp coolers... I don't want to spend the time to babysit it, and when I decide I want a specific temperature... I WANT A SPECIFIC TEMPERATURE! Ferm temp impacts flavor and I like to see how a few degrees changes the beer from batch to batch. Not having good ferm temp control seems like mashing without a thermometer.

I have found that the Magic Chef/Vissani 52-bottle wine cooler is a great fermentation fridge. This fridge is big enough to fit a typical plastic bucket or the 7 gal SS Brew Tech Brewmaster Bucket, with room for a bottle of sanitizer for an airlock.

This Vissani is no longer made, but you can find them on Craigslist if you are patient and lucky. I got my second one a couple of months ago for $50.

They look like this:

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.52-bottle-wine-cooler-black.1000411203.html

There is a thread on HBT where you can find out how to hotwire the thermostat so you can use an external temperature controller--it takes cutting a couple of wires and joining them with a wire nut, super easy, and reversible.

$50 for the fridge if you are lucky, less than $50 for an Inkbird, and a cheap heater of some sort... I like the sort you can wrap around the fermenter... You could be controlling fermentation temp for about $120.

After ferm temp control I would look into mash pH. Modifying pH with acid made a big difference in the quality of my lighter beers.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Wow, most of you must either be single, have massive homes, or wives that will put up with anything. My wife (no pics) likes beer and supports my brewing, but there is no way I could find room in my house for a dedicated fermentation chamber (fridge, chest freezer, etc.).

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Wow, most of you must either be single, have massive homes, or wives that will put up with anything. My wife (no pics) likes beer and supports my brewing, but there is no way I could find room in my house for a dedicated fermentation chamber (fridge, chest freezer, etc.).

I have a section of my basement where I keep everything. Unfortunately, since it is below-grade, I don't have drainage, and therefore, no water, so I have to move everything upstairs or outside when I am actually brewing and use the kitchen sink for filling and cleaning.

I get the occasional comment about leaving kegs or carboys full of cleaning solution sitting in the kitchen, but usually it's okay if they're only there for a day or two.

So having/using a portion of the basement is great, but it's not as good as a garage, because since I have to transport everything (usually outside to brew), I can't have a fixed brewing setup. Everything, including full kegs and fermenters, get carried manually up and back down the basement stairs. Fortunately I have a strong back, good balance and an unfailing grip (otherwise those trips up and down the stairs with full glass carboys could get hazardous)!

 

[Horseflesh]

there is no way I could find room in my house for a dedicated fermentation chamber (fridge, chest freezer, etc.).

I might be a heretic, but I actually would not brew if I could not control temperature.

 

[JayInAmes]

Cooler filled with water, and frozen water bottles is a good way to start temp control. Takes a little maintenance, but better than nothing.

 

[JLump]

I recently built my system for controlling temp. I was stalled out on it for a while because I wanted to find a cheap way to do it. I ended up spending maybe $60 on a chamber where I have control from freezing temps to over 100F. I just build a simple, cheap frame from 2x4's and some scrap plywood and cut out rigid foam isolation for the walls. It opens up like a chest freezer and uses an STC1000 to control a heating blanket and a compressor scrounged from a trashed mini fridge. I'm just saying there are cheap ways to gain good control if you put your mind to it.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

I might be a heretic, but I actually would not brew if I could not control temperature.

Agreed, but in reality, "close enough" is close enough.
If your yeast's optimal range is 50-55, it doesn't care if you are at 51 or 54. Or if it likes 70 but you are at 68 or 72, it doesn't really matter. The yeast won't know the difference and neither will you.

My point: in most cases with brewing, "close enough" is close enough (applies to mash temps too).

 

[Horseflesh]

Sure, those ranges won't hurt your ability to make good beer, and I'd keep going if that was all I could do. But there's no way I'd let temps run wild and hope for the best, which seems to be pretty common.

I definitely enjoy the ability to specify temperature and see flavor results. A 4 degree change within the yeast's specified happy range can make a noticeable difference, and those experiments are fun for me.

 

[bolus14]

I would say start with keeping things simple, KISS rule. After my first few brews I have always messed with something in a recipe, used different yeast strains, used different hops, mashed higher/lower thinking that i knew what would be better for the mouthfeel or FG, etc, in the end I have started sticking very closely to recipes. In 3.5 yrs I would say I have come up with 3 recipes of my own and the grain bills and hops are quite simple.

The beers I have kept simplistic have been my best.

I would also practice patience. Go into each brew expecting to wait a min of 4 weeks before you get to drink it. Yes, some will be ready sooner, especially if your kegging, but if you have the mindset that it'll be a month when you start it makes it easier. Don't expect or plan on opening the bucket for at least 2.5 - 3 weeks, again there are exceptions to this.

Lastly, work on some lower ABV beers first, stick with 4.5% - 6% until you get your processes down. Typically these beers won't give you as much to hide behind and should help you figure out what to focus on fixing. Figure out what base malt you like for certain styles, an IPA might be really good for one person using 2-Row where you might prefer Pilsner, same for Amber, Porters, Stouts, some say they like Maris Otter others same 2-Row is good for them, some people prefer Crystal 40 and some Crystal 60. Don't go full bore into crazy IPA's with hop schedules adding hops every 5 min and dry hopping 3 times. You may find you prefer an IPA that only has 3 or 4 hop additions during the boil, might prefer later hopping and whirlpool additions, this is something you have to try a few different ways with different hops, but I think starting simple makes it easier to figure out what you will like.

Many times the difference between good and WOW will be a small thing. If it took perfect water, expensive equipment, specific fermentation temps, then very few people would be home brewing great beers. At the same time depending on your process equipment, recipes, etc your water, fermentation temps, etc will be the little thing you need to change.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Sure, those ranges won't hurt your ability to make good beer, and I'd keep going if that was all I could do. But there's no way I'd let temps run wild and hope for the best, which seems to be pretty common.

I definitely enjoy the ability to specify temperature and see flavor results. A 4 degree change within the yeast's specified happy range can make a noticeable difference, and those experiments are fun for me.

Don't get me wrong, I agree with you, but the inability to dial in a specific temperature shouldn't be a limiting factor. Before I got temperature control I knew my basement was reliably 68-70 degrees around the clock, year round, so it was ideal for ale fermentation. I have a crawlspace under my living room that stays rock solid 50F from about November through March, so that's when and where I would ferment my lagers.

Precise temp control is certainly nice (I use it on my lagers but still cowboy it with ambient basement temps on ales, knowing it will reliably be 68-70), but shouldn't be a deal-breaker if there's a place in the house that is pretty consistent without wild fluctuations. And even then, the thermal mass of the fermenter will prevent the wort from changing with fluctuations throughout the day. It'll probably stay at about the average temp.

 

[McKnuckle]

I would argue that a lot of the quality control in homebrewing occurs once the wort hits the fermenter. Even though many of us spend a ton of energy and money on the hot side brewing gear, ultimately that part of the process is not the most critical.

Yes, obviously you have to mill grains fine enough, mash at an appropriate temperature, etc. etc. - but we're talking about "WOW" where every little thing matters. And a lot of that comes into play once the wort cools.

Have a solid recipe (malt/hops);
Get the water right - no extremes, proper pH;
Control fermentation temps appropriately for the yeast/style;
Drastically limit oxygen post-pitch; and
Keg the beer.

This means stop obsessively peeking at it during fermentation. Stop taking a million samples. Just let it go, be patient, and package it when it is ready. A big reason for mediocre homebrew - competently made but not WOW - is lack of freshness. And freshness is easily compromised on our scale and with our typical equipment.

 

[ChelisHubby]

Hawk 8 Go ahead and do the all grain and focus on tempature control. Dont be cheap and not use the camphen. If your water taste good it should make good beer. I have found that unless you are making a stout or a porter, that the simpler the recipe the better. I also find that using some of the members recipes here are very good. Yoopers, the guy from Cave Creek texas, and several others. While you are trying to improve the Beer dont overlook the amount of yeast you pitch. if the gravity is over 10.60 pitch a second pack or vail. If you dont like the flavor of your water then move into water chemistry. I found that the move from to allgrain and fermentation temp control made the largest improvements.

 

[bleme]

Wow, most of you must either be single, have massive homes, or wives that will put up with anything. My wife (no pics) likes beer and supports my brewing, but there is no way I could find room in my house for a dedicated fermentation chamber (fridge, chest freezer, etc.).

I guess that is me... Our house in only 1250sf but I still have a wall in the garage for all my grain and equipment, then a freezer, fridge and dorm fridge on the back porch for hops/kegs/fermenting (respectively). It took her 3 years, but she finally has the use of the master shower again...

 

[mongoose33]

Wow, most of you must either be single, have massive homes, or wives that will put up with anything. My wife (no pics) likes beer and supports my brewing, but there is no way I could find room in my house for a dedicated fermentation chamber (fridge, chest freezer, etc.).

You need either a new wife, a new house, or a new hobby.

My ferm chamber (refrigerator) is in my garage. Many have them in basements (you may not have one), or tucked into a corner somewhere. There are smaller refrigerators that will suffice if you need something for limited space.

Check Craigslist; it's like fishing, you may not get a bit the first time, but I'll bet you can find a compact refrigerator you could use.

For instance, here's one for under $200: https://dubuque.craigslist.org/app/6013510540.html

 

[jmark]

And even then, the thermal mass of the fermenter will prevent the wort from changing with fluctuations throughout the day. It'll probably stay at about the average temp.

I don't think this is close to accurate. Without temperature control fermentation itself will raise the beer temperature several degrees depending on the strain. Some strains don't have any difficulty raising the temp 10-15 degrees. The beer I have going right now is using Conan and to keep the beer at 67, my fridge chamber is having to stay at around 62-63. Keeping temperatures under control for the first few days of fermentation is truly vital if you want to produce that 'wow' beer.