Foam board built into the collar or exposed inside?

[ajandrs]

Hey everyone,

The old, beat up, used freezer I bought 4 years ago for $25 to get me into the keezer game finally gave up the ghost. I'm looking at the Insignia 10.2 cf at Best Buy for $240 to replace it, and finally do a nice looking keezer. On the old one I only put a simple 2x4 collar on it because anything more would have been overkill for such an eyesore of a freezer.

I'm curious what your thoughts are on sandwiching a 1" piece of foam board in between .75" boards vs a simple 2x collar and then attaching the pink foam board to it on the inside of the keezer. I like the idea of it sandwiched between the wood for no reason other than it would "look" better that way. But I don't claim to be a thermal engineer and would rather do it which ever way provides the best insulation for the inside of the keezer.

For those of you that have incorporated rigid foam board into your keezer collar, do you have any insight into why you you put it where you did?

 

[mirthfuldragon]

You are going to have to enforce or reinforce the hinge supports on a 1x4, foam-core sandwiched collar. Not a bad thing, but there's more work there. There would need to be something in the design to support the spacing between the wood and the foam - otherwise, the foam would compress when you screw it together, or you would have to do something like an inner and outer collar with foam between them. I understand what you are trying to accomplish, but I do not have any good ways to go about it.

I bought a used keezer with a 2x6 collar, with 1" foam on the inside. I agree that it is not the prettiest thing, but it is functional and isn't work the extra work to bother to change, to me personally. Sometimes, doing it the easy way is, well, easier.

 

[ajandrs]

You are going to have to enforce or reinforce the hinge supports on a 1x4, foam-core sandwiched collar. Not a bad thing, but there's more work there. There would need to be something in the design to support the spacing between the wood and the foam - otherwise, the foam would compress when you screw it together, or you would have to do something like an inner and outer collar with foam between them. I understand what you are trying to accomplish, but I do not have any good ways to go about it.

I bought a used keezer with a 2x6 collar, with 1" foam on the inside. I agree that it is not the prettiest thing, but it is functional and isn't work the extra work to bother to change, to me personally. Sometimes, doing it the easy way is, well, easier.

I've only worked with that rigid pink board once and it was a long time ago, but I seem to remember that it was fairly stiff and not too compressible ... but I had figured I might have to put a block in the sandwich at the hinge points for added support, and possibly a block or two on the long front side as well, or at least around the shanks to keep that area strong when I tighten down the taps.

You are right though that what I am thinking about doing is a lot more work, and just slapping a 1" board on the inside of the collar would take half the time and come together a whole lot easier. Something to think about for sure, thanks for your input!

 

[pigroaster]

Do you need a collar for clearance? You could drill holes in back of lid and use rubber grommets to protect the lines for outside CO2 , power if you want internal fan and a controller temp probe. All can be done without a collar. I can send you a photo but do not know how to post one..Then install a tower to dispense with extra support underneath in the top.

I've only worked with that rigid pink board once and it was a long time ago, but I seem to remember that it was fairly stiff and not too compressible ... but I had figured I might have to put a block in the sandwich at the hinge points for added support, and possibly a block or two on the long front side as well, or at least around the shanks to keep that area strong when I tighten down the taps.

You are right though that what I am thinking about doing is a lot more work, and just slapping a 1" board on the inside of the collar would take half the time and come together a whole lot easier. Something to think about for sure, thanks for your input!

ance for kegs? If not send me an email and

QUOTE="mirthfuldragon, post: 8311217, member: 241074"]You are going to have to enforce or reinforce the hinge supports on a 1x4, foam-core sandwiched collar. Not a bad thing, but there's more work there. There would need to be something in the design to support the spacing between the wood and the foam - otherwise, the foam would compress when you screw it together, or you would have to do something like an inner and outer collar with foam between them. I understand what you are trying to accomplish, but I do not have any good ways to go about it.

I bought a used keezer with a 2x6 collar, with 1" foam on the inside. I agree that it is not the prettiest thing, but it is functional and isn't work the extra work to bother to change, to me personally. Sometimes, doing it the easy way is, well, easier.[/QUOTE]

 

[ajandrs]

Do you need a collar for clearance? You could drill holes in back of lid and use rubber grommets to protect the lines for outside CO2 , power if you want internal fan and a controller temp probe. All can be done without a collar. I can send you a photo but do not know how to post one..Then install a tower to dispense with extra support underneath in the top.





ance for kegs? If not send me an email and

QUOTE="mirthfuldragon, post: 8311217, member: 241074"]You are going to have to enforce or reinforce the hinge supports on a 1x4, foam-core sandwiched collar. Not a bad thing, but there's more work there. There would need to be something in the design to support the spacing between the wood and the foam - otherwise, the foam would compress when you screw it together, or you would have to do something like an inner and outer collar with foam between them. I understand what you are trying to accomplish, but I do not have any good ways to go about it.

I bought a used keezer with a 2x6 collar, with 1" foam on the inside. I agree that it is not the prettiest thing, but it is functional and isn't work the extra work to bother to change, to me personally. Sometimes, doing it the easy way is, well, easier.

[/QUOTE]

At this point I don't need a collar for clearance, but I prefer it over a tower as it gets me what I need without permanently changing the freezer and voiding its warranty ... plus I can change it back to use it as a freezer if I ever wanted / needed to.

 

[kh54s10]

I haven't built one yet but my idea is to use a really nice wood on the outside. Reinforce where needed. Probably some insulation foam and something cheap on the inside. I think I would not just leave the foam only on the inside. I am not getting any younger and I would probably tear up the insulation over time getting the kegs in and out of the keezer.

 

[brew703]

I used foam board on the inside and attached with screws. I used AC silver tape on all seems.
I also have my CO2 bottle on the outside and used bulkhead adaptors to make the connections. http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843430.htm

 

[brew703]

This is how i did my keezer and foam board.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/easy-peasy-no-glue-keezer-build-with-lots-of-pics.632550/

 

[757rex]

This is how I did my keezer collar. I used 1x10 and 1x12 pine boards 1 1/2" rigid foam. I glued FRP panel to the foam on the inside of the collar.

 

[ajandrs]

*EDITED* to account for Rex's design idea above

So here's my plan ... I think.

The plan would be to buy a 3/4" x 2' x 4' sheet of MDF (only $13) and cut strips 4" wide to create the square collar frame, doubling up the back to provide a little more strength for the hinge screws. Then cut 6" face boards to go around the front and sides (will hang down 2" below the main collar). Then I'll put a strip on the top to conceal the pink board, and finally, face the pink board with RFP panel to provide a clean look.

I'll be sealing and painting all surfaces of the collar since it's MDF ... don't want any issues with moisture. I'm also going with 1" pink board as anything bigger would be too thick for my 4" shanks and I don't feel like dropping $60 on bigger shanks.

I've always kept my tank outside the keezer with the hose ran through a tight fitting hole in the collar that I caulked on both sides. Going from a 7cf freezer to a 10.2cf freezer I will have plenty of room to keep it inside so I think I'll start with that approach, I figure the fewer holes in the collar the better. I'll have to run my temp probe and fan wire into the keezer and in the past I've just ran it over the top of the collar and let the lid seal close on top of it. For this build I'm using a 1/4" rubber foam seal stuck to the freezer rim to sit the collar on so I'm going see how it looks running those cables between the rubber foam and the bottom of the collar. Hopefully the weight of the collar will compress the cables into the foam enough to create a decent seal.

 

[ajandrs]

This is how I did my keezer collar. I used 1x10 and 1x12 pine boards 1 1/2" rigid foam. I glued FRP panel to the foam on the inside of the collar.

This looks like a great way to do it, I never considered facing the foam board with something like an FRP panel, but I like it! Thanks for posting that diagram, I think I may just borrow your idea!

 

[ajandrs]

Got home and figured I'd draw it up real quick. Here's how it'll go together.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

I think your idea is fine. You're talking about making a SIP (structural insulated panel). Treat the inside wood well against moisture and you'll be good to go.

ALL HAIL GOOGLE SKETCHUP!

 

[mongoose33]

Not sure you need to add the inside layer. I made a keezer last year and did this to add insulation:

You can cut the foam to friction fit, i.e., hold the ends in with the sides, and use foamboard insulation tabs (with thin screws) to hold the middles to the collar.

Any kind of relatively stiff plastic would serve, just cut a piece approx. 1" in dimension, drill a hole in the middle, and you have something to hold it to the collar.

BTW, the bevel cut in the insulation was to accommodate an angled lip that protruded into the space. I used a bread knife to cut it on a bias. It was actually quite easy to do.

 

[ajandrs]

Not sure you need to add the inside layer. I made a keezer last year and did this to add insulation:

View attachment 572993

You can cut the foam to friction fit, i.e., hold the ends in with the sides, and use foamboard insulation tabs (with thin screws) to hold the middles to the collar.

Any kind of relatively stiff plastic would serve, just cut a piece approx. 1" in dimension, drill a hole in the middle, and you have something to hold it to the collar.

View attachment 572997

BTW, the bevel cut in the insulation was to accommodate an angled lip that protruded into the space. I used a bread knife to cut it on a bias. It was actually quite easy to do.

Definitely don't "need" the inside layer, it's basically just for aesthetics as I don't really like the look of the pink board exposed on the inside. Nothing wrong with it of course, I just prefer a cleaner look. Plus I think the FRP liner will make it a lot easier to keep clean compared to the pink board.

I'm a little nervous to find out if the lid of my freezer will close with this design, I may have to alter the design a little to accommodate an angled lid like you have. In the store it looked like I might be ok, but I won't know for sure until I pick up the freezer and get a better look at it.

 

[mongoose33]

Definitely don't "need" the inside layer, it's basically just for aesthetics as I don't really like the look of the pink board exposed on the inside. Nothing wrong with it of course, I just prefer a cleaner look. Plus I think the FRP liner will make it a lot easier to keep clean compared to the pink board.

I'm a little nervous to find out if the lid of my freezer will close with this design, I may have to alter the design a little to accommodate an angled lid like you have. In the store it looked like I might be ok, but I won't know for sure until I pick up the freezer and get a better look at it.

Whatever floats your boat. Everybody gets to decide what looks good. My biggest concern was that the foam board did not protrude past the inside edge of the freezer so I wouldn't be catching kegs on that as I lifted them out.

BTW, if you're not too far along with this, you might check out this thread; there is no gluing of the collar to the freezer, and you can build it on any flat surface and then transfer to the freezer. You use pickup truck topper tape to seal between the collar and the freezer. It allows you to remove the collar at any time, which has already come in handy for my son's keezer (the one in the photos) as he moved to a different place.

It also will allow you to check for the fit of the lid without having made any permanent installations.

Easy peasy no glue keezer build with lots of pics.

 

[pedgaro]

Hey everyone,

The old, beat up, used freezer I bought 4 years ago for $25 to get me into the keezer game finally gave up the ghost. I'm looking at the Insignia 10.2 cf at Best Buy for $240 to replace it, and finally do a nice looking keezer. On the old one I only put a simple 2x4 collar on it because anything more would have been overkill for such an eyesore of a freezer.

I'm curious what your thoughts are on sandwiching a 1" piece of foam board in between .75" boards vs a simple 2x collar and then attaching the pink foam board to it on the inside of the keezer. I like the idea of it sandwiched between the wood for no reason other than it would "look" better that way. But I don't claim to be a thermal engineer and would rather do it which ever way provides the best insulation for the inside of the keezer.

For those of you that have incorporated rigid foam board into your keezer collar, do you have any insight into why you you put it where you did?

I built mine with 1“ foam board between two pieces of ½” oak veneer plywood.

https://i.imgur.com/DqEARvJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HNeOwIL.jpg?1

 

[ajandrs]

BTW, if you're not too far along with this, you might check out this thread; there is no gluing of the collar to the freezer, and you can build it on any flat surface and then transfer to the freezer. You use pickup truck topper tape to seal between the collar and the freezer. It allows you to remove the collar at any time, which has already come in handy for my son's keezer (the one in the photos) as he moved to a different place.

It also will allow you to check for the fit of the lid without having made any permanent installations.

Easy peasy no glue keezer build with lots of pics.

This is very similar to how I built my now dead keezer (RIP) just without the foam, and I've already ordered the seal tape from Amazon for this new keezer. I agree it's a great way of doing it as it provides a great seal and isn't permanent. I haven't started the build out yet since Best Buy didn't have it in stock, I should be able to pick it up on Monday, but I'll start a new thread for the build out.

 

[ajandrs]

I built mine with 1“ foam board between two pieces of ½” oak veneer plywood.

https://i.imgur.com/DqEARvJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HNeOwIL.jpg?1

I like how you did it with those corner pieces, I assume you made those yourself? I also really like that far left tap handle!

 

[mongoose33]

I like how you did it with those corner pieces, I assume you made those yourself? I also really like that far left tap handle!

I have a few spent 50-caliber cases; I wonder.....

 

[757rex]

Definitely don't "need" the inside layer, it's basically just for aesthetics as I don't really like the look of the pink board exposed on the inside. Nothing wrong with it of course, I just prefer a cleaner look. Plus I think the FRP liner will make it a lot easier to keep clean compared to the pink board.

I'm a little nervous to find out if the lid of my freezer will close with this design, I may have to alter the design a little to accommodate an angled lid like you have. In the store it looked like I might be ok, but I won't know for sure until I pick up the freezer and get a better look at it.

You will have to chamfer the inside edge of the top pieces for the lid to fit. Here are some old pictures of mine before I changed to FRP on the inside. This is on the 7cf insignia freezer from Best Buy. If the height of the 7cf and 10cf freezer is the same. You might want to build a taller collar if you want to be able to fit a keg on top of the hump on the bottom of the freezer. I change the pdf sketch to show the sides and top of freezer.

 

[pbrennan10]

I used 3/4 wood on front and sides with 2x on back. I used 3/16 underlayment board to cover inside of foam. I used half inch foam board because i had it, but doing over I'd pick whatever thickness matched the collar which was prob 1.5 inch.