Fixed PRV vs 'regular' PRV and other Pin Lock questions

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videojunkie1208

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I happened across a great deal on a bunch of old soda kegs that are all pin lock. Most of them have what I think of as a standard PRV on the top where you can pull the ring and release the pressure. A couple of them have what I think is a fixed PRV, where there is no ring, and on the bottom looks like a burst valve/membrane.

The ones with the fixed PRV do not look like it is possible to replace with the standard type. Should I go ahead and replace those lids with new ones?

Second: the posts seem to have 2 types of gaskets on them. On the posts where they were relatively easy to take apart, they had a 'flat' style gasket, On the posts where they were difficult to remove, they all had an O-ring that was crushed beyond recognition. Any idea where I can get these flat rubber washers?

Third: Gas dip tube length. nearly all of the dip tubes are different lengths, ranging from nearly 2" to less than 1/2". Should I replace these so that they are all standard 2" lengths?
 
There is no need to replace the fixed prv on pin locks. When I want to release pressure, I use an extra gas disconnect, pin lock depressor (example), or a small screwdriver. If I'm in a hurry I just press the poppet with my finger nail. If you prefer to have them all the same, you can either get replacement lids or drill out the fixed prv and install a weldless prv (example).

As far as the flat o-rings, there was a thread on here that had all of the different o-rgin sizes, but for the life of me, can't find it right now. Homebrewfinds has one but only links to amazon listings of round o-rings. I believe the dip-tube o-rings are size #109
(5/16" ID, 1/2" OD, 3/32" Width). Check out Fastenal, McMaster, or Grainger for the flat or x-shaped gaskets.
 
1. Prv: I have 2 pin locks and 4 ball lick. I've had a replacement lid on my wishlist for probably 8 years. It seems like a need, but every time I need to bump my cart, something else seems more important. It is not a cost issue, rather a cost-effective issue. They work, no need to replace at this time. Replace all of the gaskets and buy a small tub of keg-lube.

2nd. I don't remember where I got the flat gaskets. Most likely morebeer.com or amazon, but I've ordered so many things from so many places that I can't recall. I'll try and look for old orders when I have time, but someone eill probably have the answer soon.

3rd. Gas diptube length - Dealers choice. But I would try to be sure that it doesn't go into the liquid if the keg is really full
 
I have 8 pinlock kegs. All of them use this O-ring under the dip tubes.

EC9DD65B-1084-47BF-AABA-DF7F9E198F65.jpeg


I have shortened all of my gas dip tubes to about 3/4” long; just enough to leave the shoulder for the O-ring to seal against. I’ve never wished for a manual PRV; YMMV.
 
One other obaservation, the bottoms of several of them look like they have been beaten to "round" them out instead of the original trough in the edge (several of them have the dip tube at the edge, and a small trough imprinted in the steel). It doesn't look like there any scratches, but is this normal, or was a previous owner trying to 'fix' the bottoms? They look a bit like some amateur kettle drums!
 

It's the right size, but I don't know anything about the suitability of Viton rubber for beer or food-grade applications. But the same seller has these Buna-N x-profile o-rings for cheaper per unit. Buna-N, as I've read is the normal material of the standard o-rings.

https://www.amazon.com/USA-Sealing-...A+Sealing+Inc+dash+109&qid=1586967231&sr=8-19
 
Just replace the flat o-rings with the standard o-rings, they work fine.

The other PRVs are auto-reset, if they over pressure, it vents and then closes.
I don't believe that there are any more parts available for the auto-reset lids if you have problems.
One just has to replace the lid, or seal the valve.
You can buy new lids for ~12-15 bucks a piece, if you want the pull ring variety.

As others have advised, replace all five o-rings in the kegs, don't mix up the parts.

Some pin lock kegs, the diptube went to the center to a dimple, some went to the side and there was a trough so to speak, that allowed the last to drain.

You can cut the gas tube down if you want, to get a couple more pints in the kegs, otherwise they work fine. I cut down most of mine with a tubing cutter, it takes a while because they are stainless steel.

There is another style of lid that a section shears out and the lid is then trash, sort of like a fuse, that were used as well.

There are two main manufacturers of the kegs, Corneluis and Firestone/Spartanburg.
There is also a slight difference in the handle as well, the Firestone kegs, the handle is a complete circle and the Cornelius kegs, there is a notch at each plug.
The plugs on top of the kegs don't interchange.
Most corny keg lids are standard, pin lock and ball lock, although there is the oddball racetrack lid kegs out there as well.

Hope this helps, I sold ~2-3000 kegs and have had plenty of experience with them.
 
Here is a picture of what I am describing with the o-rings.

Left, square.
Middle, new
Right, squashed old.

Looks like someone had smaller than normal rings and crushed them.
 

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Those lids were probably not fixed but are the originals. What you see is the emergency release and that is set. You can "fix" them by buying an addon prv. I have done that with two lids. It's slightly less expensive than a new lid but you have to drill it out. I don't like the fix myself as you have to be careful about placement in the lid. It becomes harder to get the lid on. I would just recommend getting a new lid if you want a manual release.
 

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