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First wort hopping in BIAB - add hops to mash?

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misterkidd

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Hi all,

I'm a BIAB brewer and I'd like to try first wort hopping. John Palmer advises that, in traditional mash and sparge, you add the hops to the boil kettle during first running. I understand that the sparge process can take some time (don't know, never done traditional all-grain brewing) - perhaps half an hour. In my process, however, I just remove the grain bag after the mash and turn on my electric element and proceed straight to boil. Therefore, if I added a first wort hopping addition at this stage, I imagine that the hops would have less time to "do their thing" before the start of the boil.

Therefore, I see two options :

1) I could add the hops when I remove the BIAG bag, and not worry about the hops having less time in the mash, or;
2) I could add the hops actually during the mash, to make up for the time the hops would have spent in the wort if I was sparging

Any thoughts on which is best? Thanks in advance!
 
I did exactly what was suggested in a recent batch. I did it before I knew it was called First Wort Hopping and to me it just reduced the vigorous bubbling that occurred when I added hops.

I've actually started using my grain bag to hold my hops after watching a fellow brew do that. Dump the grains back in the plastic bag and rinse off the bag and I'm ready to hop.
 
I use to FWH, hop stand, hop burst, dry hop and combinations of all, now I just mash hop for all my hop flavor and aroma. You may have to use a little more but it gives me the results I want and it also helps cut down kettle trub.
 
I did exactly what was suggested in a recent batch. I did it before I knew it was called First Wort Hopping and to me it just reduced the vigorous bubbling that occurred when I added hops.

I've actually started using my grain bag to hold my hops after watching a fellow brew do that. Dump the grains back in the plastic bag and rinse off the bag and I'm ready to hop.

I had the exact opposite reaction when I tried first wort hopping. That was the only time I couldn't control the hot break and had a nasty boil over on the kitchen range. Now I wait until the hot breaks falls back in before I add any hops.:rockin:
 
I've been doing this for years, just add the FWH additions right after you lift the grains out. Works well, no change in boil overs vs a straight up 60 minute addition that I can see.

I use pellet hops for FWH and 60 minute addition. I sometimes use commercial or homegrown leaf hops for late or flameout additions. I do use a paint strainer bag for leaf hops as now have 2 of them sitting around.
 
Thanks all. I'm gonna try fwh at the end of the mash when i take out the bag as-per the general consensus. I don't tend to have boil over issues - big kettle, usually smallish batches. Thanks for introducing me to malt hopping, wobdee - one for the armoury for later.
 
Do you guys use about the same amount as a 60 min addition, or more/less? Because i guess you do this instead of 60 min, right?
 
I use a little less in order to achieve the same IBUs as a 60 min addition would yield. Yes, I do FWH in lieu of the 60 min addition.
 
Do you guys use about the same amount as a 60 min addition, or more/less? Because i guess you do this instead of 60 min, right?

If it makes a massive difference style wise I will but usually I don't need to. My last batch went up 3 or 4 IBUs between boil hops and first wort hops. If it switched from being middle of the IBU scale for a beer to the 3/4 of the IBU max I'd consider adjusting it. Hops are cheap so I don't mind throwing an ounce out since I don't have a way to save them yet unless I'm making another beer in 2-3 days and I keep them frozen.
 
What is the reason anyone does FWH? Does it extract more bitterness from the hops?
 
What is the reason anyone does FWH? Does it extract more bitterness from the hops?

As i understand it (I'm the OP - haven't actually done it yet), you get all the bittering of a 60 minute addition (plus an extra 10%), but also :

1) hop flavouring, similar to a later hop addition
2) a less harsh, more rounded bitterness
 
Those are the reasons I do it for. I generally swap 60 minute additions for FWH almost 1:1. Since it does seem to lend a little flavor to the beer, I don't do it for beers that I only want a bittering charge with no flavor.
 
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