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First time using BRY-97

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Old threat, but for those reading it, make sure you use the Lallermand Pitch calculator for your volume, gravity and fermentation temperature. Many BRY-97 lag complaints are due to under pitching.
 
when was the last time you used bry 97. i think its possbile they may have corrected the cell count. my last batch took off like a rocket with only one pack of yeast . i think it was 1.050 wort. it literally started in a few hours was all . i love this yeast btw
super clean ale yeast at 70 degrees
 
Probably about 6 months. Hopefully they updated their calculators if they changed it. I've not had a problem with lag, but I do pitch at least what is recommended.
 
Well, if I pitch at the end of a brew day, I like to see activity by the morning or soon there after. BRY-97, under pitched, might take a day or two to kick off. Many complain, but their underpitching is the reason for the lag. Lallermand offers a pitching calculator online, and it would be wise to use it, should you wish to pitch the recommended amount.
 
fwiw, I use two rehydrated packs per 5.5 gallons for the 1.069 IPA I brew with bry-97 and if I pitch by 4pm on brew days it'll reliably be bubbling before I go to bed that evening. Lallemand's calculator calls for 17 grams/two 11 gram packs for that pitch...

Cheers!
 
@CodyRonan : But what if there is more to "slow starts" than just pitch rate?

Over the last 10 years, I've brewed smaller (2.5 gal or less) batches with a number of strains of dry yeast (US-05, S-04, Nottingham, BRY-97, Verdant, New England, WLPD-001, WLPD-066).

I've mentioned the Lallemand pitch rate calculator in a number of threads over a number of years. It's a useful tool. But I'm not convinced it's the only answer to "slow starts".

Without getting precise about measuring "slow starts", and setting aside whether or not "slow starts" are a bad thing, I suspect that there are a number of additional factors to "slow" (vs "normal" vs "fast") starts
0) a measurable definition of "under pitch", "over pitch", and "proper pitch".
1) wort temperature over the first 24 hours
2) wort clarity at time of pitch
3) amount of trub in the fermenter
4) rehydrate vs sprinkle (vs use a starter)

One anecdotal from about a year ago: I sprinkled 1/2 sachet of BRY-97 into a 2.5 gal batch of OG 60-ish wort at around 68F. The goal was to let the wort cool down to 65F while the yeast was getting started. The pitch rate was less than recommended, but I saw a faster start (based on observing krausen on top of the wort). The beer seems to "come out fine" either way (slow start or faster start).
 
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@CodyRonan : But what if there is more to "slow starts" than just pitch rate?

You could be right. But with this yeast, based on my readings, it's often when people have thrown in 1 packet when they should have thrown in 2.

Over the last 10 years, I've brewed smaller (2.5 gal or less) batches with a number of strains of dry yeast (US-05, S-04, Nottingham, BRY-97, Verdant, New England, WLPD-001, WLPD-066).

I've mentioned the Lallemand pitch rate calculator in a number of threads over a number of years. It's a useful tool. But I'm not convinced it's the only answer to "slow starts".

Without getting precise about measuring "slow starts", and setting aside whether or not "slow starts" are a bad thing, I suspect that there are a number of additional factors to "slow" (vs "normal" vs "fast") starts
0) a measurable definition of "under pitch", "over pitch", and "proper pitch".

Well, depends on the yeast, and the wort.

1) wort temperature over the first 24 hours
True. Pitch calc takes into account temp.

2) wort clarity at time of pitch

I don't know about this one (no, really, I don't). They say some trub is a good thing these days.

3) amount of trub in the fermenter
4) rehydrate vs sprinkle (vs use a starter)

Yeah they say it hits the ground running better if rehydrated; certainly if there is a starter although that's unusual and neither is needed for dry yeast as per manufactures instructions and experience. Certainly not for your micro batches.

One anecdotal from about a year ago: I sprinkled 1/2 sachet of BRY-97 into a 2.5 gal batch of OG 60-ish wort at around 68F. The goal was to let the wort cool down to 65F while the yeast was getting started. The pitch rate was less than recommended, but I saw a faster start (based on observing krausen on top of the wort). The beer seems to "come out fine" either way (slow start or faster start).

agree - it all seems to work itself out in the end. Normally people go the other way - cooler to ferment temp, but yeah all good.

I don't really have any more on the subject. I just wanted to note for prosperity that many underpitch this yeast and suggest the calculator.
 
fwiw, I use two rehydrated packs per 5.5 gallons for the 1.069 IPA I brew with bry-97 and if I pitch by 4pm on brew days it'll reliably be bubbling before I go to bed that evening.

A data point for sprinkled vs rehydrated. BRY-97 with a best by date of 'Dec 2024'.

Yesterday, I brewed an all-grain APA (in the spirit of an early 2000s SNPA) yesterday. 92% base malts; 8% C40; Perl for bittering, Cascade for flavor, Centennial for aroma. 2.5 gal into fermenter, OG 53. 'game day' decision to switch from WLPD-001 to BRY-97. (full disclosure: recipe/process includes YOS + OxBlox + mash cap + Irish Moss + 1.15g Wyeast yeast nutrient @ 10)

Sprinkled 1/2 sachet BRY-97 (5.5 g) into the wort at 71F at 4pm (5.8 g recommended). Note that the wort included added yeast nutrient.

This morning at 6am, I saw 'early signs' of active fermentation; and at 10 am there was a solid layer of krausen on top of the wort.

Wort had cooled from 71F (4 pm yesterday) to 66F (6am this morning), but the yeast didn't seem to care. I'm targeting 67F (wort temperature) for this beer.

So, with sprinkling, maybe 12 to 18 hours to match your 'reliably bubbling' observation.

5.5 gallons [...] 1.069 [...] Lallemand's calculator calls for 17 grams/two 11 gram packs for that pitch...
Pitched into wort at 65F?



FWIW, I 'stumbled into' the approach of pitching warm and letting the wort cool to desired fermentation temperature when using Verdant. In my (limited) experiences, Verdant (and New England) don't like to start at 65F, but will ferment at 65F if started warmer.
 
i also pitch most of my ale yeast 65 to 70. is that too cold or too warm?
 
i also pitch most of my ale yeast 65 to 70. is that too cold or too warm?
It's a good range for pitching the yeast.

But what is the intended fermentation temperature?

My experiences are
  • at 65F, some strains are very sluggish when starting (e.g. Verdant, New England)
  • at 70F, some strains need a blow-off tube (e.g. Windsor)
When I'm working with a 'new to me' strain, I target 67F for pitching temperature and on-going fermentation.



There appear to be some strains that will work, but very slowly, below 65F. IMO, US-05 is one of them (I've fermented it at 60F in the past). BRY-97 may be another strain that is (relatively) tolerant of fermentation temperature if given time.
 
My with my basement brewing space is currently around 60F, and I have some Diamond Lager in stock to work with. But opportunity for a 'split batch' with BRY-97 ('no' trub in one, 'more' trub in the other). I also tried out rapidly cooling wort (kitchen sink) then doing a hop steep (@170F) - it worked, but that may be a post in a different thread.

2.75 gal (end of boil), OG 56. Let trub sett for a number of hours. Split into two 1.25 gal batches.

Pitch BRY-97 @ 67F: 3.2g fermenter 1; 2.6 g fermenter 2. Let wort cool to ambient (~ 60F).

40 hours later, fermenter 1 is has a 'dusting' of krausen on top; fermenter 2 has 0.5' of krausen.

suggested pitch rates
- 1.25 gal @ 67: 2.6 g
- 1.25 gal @ 60: 3.2 g

So long start (by any definition), but fermenter 2 (under pitch at 60F, but with more trub) visually started a couple of hours sooner. (eta ~ 50 hours after pitching: based on visual observations of the krausen layers, feels like fermenter 1 is about 9 hours behind).

So with a pitch rate of 1 sachet in 5 gal for 'standard' strength beers, maybe (maybe) wort temperature and amount of trub are more important than pitch rate for avoiding a 'slow' start. I doubt I'll follow up on this idea any time soon. I'm more interesting in working with Diamond Lager (and the Flash Brewing kit yeast) this winter.
 
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