Move the gas over first. You shouldn't even need to turn it off or release any as it is already at equilibrium.
Hmm, it says nearly 12'. I recall using another calculator (Can I tell you which one? No.) that led me to think 5' was just fine. I think I recall it added temp as a variable as well.I use this calc for balancing.
when I was assembling my kegging setup, I made the mistake of first purchasing 1/4" vinyl bev tubing and barbs. Had pour problems and ultimately replaced the vinyl bev line with 3/16, but kept the 1/4" barbs. A cup of hot water softens the vinyl enough to slip it onto a hose barb. Unfortunately, it also makes it impossible to remove, as you have discovered. I ended up cutting the vinyl a hair beyond the barb, then caaaarefully slitting the remaining ring with a razor blade. If you plan to do this swap regularly, get a QD to keep the line from shrinking.OK, so maybe I am not going to add the 12' line to the mix. I got home tonight and was absolutely unable to remove the gas line from the carbing cap. I figured I would at least at the 3/16' ID 12' line, but it had a quite different OD which made it inflexible as all get out. I tried exposing it to some very hot water, but could not the picnic tap into it. There was a whole 'nother problem at the other end of the 12' line, but I never got that far.
The good news is that the keg is getting very light, and it has to kick soon. Both of the pints I poured tonight had very good carb levels and head retention. I will do my part to make sure it kicks soon!
I had to look up "carbing lid" to see what all the fuss was about. The one I saw pictured only had a gas inlet and a PRV. No liquid port at all. Seems one could create the same function on standard lids by replacing the gas tube with some PVC tubing and an aeration stone. No?