First lodo biab

[Twinkeelfool]

I have been reading up on lodo techniques and saw some of the modifications for BIAB. I have a robo brew, but I still have my BIAB bag.

I did the bakers yeast and sugar de oxygenation of the full volume water, lowered the bag super slowly, capped the mash with foil. I can’t really do much about the boil with the robo, so boiled as normal. And I no chill, again, not sure how ideal that is.
It wasn’t really that hard, keen to see how it turns out. I did a rice lager ( I do lots ).
I also picked up a spunding valve, which is currently on its first keg.

 

[Brooothru]

I have been reading up on lodo techniques and saw some of the modifications for BIAB. I have a robo brew, but I still have my BIAB bag.

I did the bakers yeast and sugar de oxygenation of the full volume water, lowered the bag super slowly, capped the mash with foil. I can’t really do much about the boil with the robo, so boiled as normal. And I no chill, again, not sure how ideal that is.
It wasn’t really that hard, keen to see how it turns out. I did a rice lager ( I do lots ).
I also picked up a spunding valve, which is currently on its first keg.

Sounds like a good start. An easy addition would be incorporating some BTB 'Trifecta' into the mash water and a second dosing just prior to the end of boil. You didn't mention it, but if you sparge and/or "squeeze the bag" at the end of mash, any splashing will re-introduce D.O. into the wort and cancel out much of the mitigation you previously accomplished. Trifecta in the mash will help reduce it but won't fully eliminate it. I haven't BIAB'd in several years. I believe it's a good method to be used in home brewing but is really hard to make compatible with low oxygen brewing due to the potential for splashing when pulling the grain bag out of the mash and draining the wort into the boil vessel.

I hope you end up seeing a difference in your finished beer. It's really not difficult to incorporate some very easy steps into your brew day to improve your beer. My experience has been that the differences may be subtle but are definitely there. I believe that the beers are "brighter" initially, but the biggest benefit comes from them staying fresher longer, especially highly hopped beers that use New World and "juicy "Pacific Rim hops. Oxygen is not the friend of beer. The negative effects of even a small amount of D.O. happen quickly and are permanent. The only answer to countering these effects is eliminating as much as you can both hot side and cold side.

 

[Twinkeelfool]

When I pulled the bag I did it very slowly and let it sit just above the surface, but yes, it’s not ideal. I have been toying with upgrading, and a company here in aus has a malt pipe that hangs from the top of the kettle, and can be slowly drained from underneath. Might be better. For now, I’ll do a few and see how it goes.

What is the ideal setup for draining the mash to the kettle?

 

[jdauria]

I was doing LODO with BIAB for several years and used a pulley to pull the bag just above the wort level and stopped squeezing. I have since switched to an Anvil Foundry and have not dialed it in for LODO yet, but one thing I saw one the low oxygen website..was someone else who uses an electric system, drains the Foundry after the mash via pump to a brew kettle (with mash cap on that also) and then transfers back via the pump to the Foundry for the boil. I suppose that as the wort drains out of the bottom, the bag could be squeezed as there would very little splashing, I have been considering trying that method on an upcoming brew.

 

[Brooothru]

I was doing LODO with BIAB for several years and used a pulley to pull the bag just above the wort level and stopped squeezing. I have since switched to an Anvil Foundry and have not dialed it in for LODO yet, but one thing I saw one the low oxygen website..was someone else who uses an electric system, drains the Foundry after the mash via pump to a brew kettle (with mash cap on that also) and then transfers back via the pump to the Foundry for the boil. I suppose that as the wort drains out of the bottom, the bag could be squeezed as there would very little splashing, I have been considering trying that method on an upcoming brew.

I've got an all-in-one Braumeister that I retro-fitted with a low-oxygen kit that allows the entire vessel to be filled with strike water above the top of the malt pipe to float a mash cap, so no splashing during the mash. I fill it to a volume that, when the malt pipe is pulled out to drain, the bottom is still in contact with the top of the wort. It gravity drains without splashing until the level in the BV is equal to the level remaining in the grain bed, using that as my full volume of wort. I then pull the malt pipe, sparge the grains with a gallon or so of 76C water and let it drain into an old plastic brew bucket. I use the wort run-off for yeast starters.

So, no splash during the mash, no sparge (so no splashing there), and no pumping from mash to another vessel and back again for the boil. I also got away from boiling the strike water to remove D.O. since the process of post boil cooling and pumping back into the BV results in oxygen pickup itself. I've found that the Yeast Oxygen Scavenging method works best for me and my equipment setup.

 

[Summa_Brewologica]

I've got an all-in-one Braumeister that I retro-fitted with a low-oxygen kit that allows the entire vessel to be filled with strike water above the top of the malt pipe to float a mash cap, so no splashing during the mash. I fill it to a volume that, when the malt pipe is pulled out to drain, the bottom is still in contact with the top of the wort. It gravity drains without splashing until the level in the BV is equal to the level remaining in the grain bed, using that as my full volume of wort. I then pull the malt pipe, sparge the grains with a gallon or so of 76C water and let it drain into an old plastic brew bucket. I use the wort run-off for yeast starters.

So, no splash during the mash, no sparge (so no splashing there), and no pumping from mash to another vessel and back again for the boil. I also got away from boiling the strike water to remove D.O. since the process of post boil cooling and pumping back into the BV results in oxygen pickup itself. I've found that the Yeast Oxygen Scavenging method works best for me and my equipment setup.

This seems like a lot of caution to keep oxygen out (Brooothru, dude, I love your profile pic, btw).

Is the payoff really that good? I guess I’ve always associated low oxygen with the cold side not really thinking hot side would be that big an issue as long as you weren’t purposefully slopping wort around.

 

[Twinkeelfool]

Doing a Koelsh today, just waiting on the yeast to do their thing with the water.