First Lager

[sjm1027]

Made my first 5 gallon batch yesterday. I am using the fast ferment conical fermenter but my question has to do with the process.

I cracked my grain and put it in muslin and steeped for 30 minutes
Why wouldn't the instructions tell you to also put the hops pellets and Irish Moss in separate muslin bags as well? I even called the place I purchased the kit and asked after the fact and he said it wasn't necessary??
I ran into a problem when adding my wort to the fermenter... The wort wouldn't go through the funnel with a the strainer. I kept the strainer on but had to first pour the wort into a mesh bag then pour that through the funnel strainer. It still took me a ton of time. What do you guys do? I can't believe you spend 1 hour + pouring 5 gallons of wort into the fermenter? Or maybe I'm wrong?

Thanks
Steve

 

[Dirt_McGirt]

I don't have a conical, but it looks like the top opening is about 9-10" wide? If you're careful pouring, can you transfer without a funnel? Or maybe get a different funnel with a wider bottom spout?

 

[sjm1027]

I don't have a conical, but it looks like the top opening is about 9-10" wide? If you're careful pouring, can you transfer without a funnel? Or maybe get a different funnel with a wider bottom spout?

I guess my question is to you all strain your wort into your fermenter?
Could I just pour directly the way it was from pot to fermenter without straining or do you really need to strain the wort to get the sludge from the hops pellets out. That's why I am asking if all of you put your hops pellets and Irish moss in a muslin bag?

 

[Dirt_McGirt]

I normally strain through a mesh strainer because I typically don't use hop bags in the boil, nor do I bag my irish moss. It doesn't slow things down much - nowhere near the timeframe you're talking about with using a funnel.

I forgot to strain on my last batch though, and just poured it all in. My understanding is that it'll come out fine and the sediment aill all settle at the bottom. The only concern is with how easy it'll be to wash and harvest the yeast afterward.

 

[Hayden512]

I actually siphon my wort from my kettle to my fermenter. I don't use a hop bag and just keep the cane off the bottom right above the trub. Never have had an issue. Anything I accidentally suck up packs nicely into the yeast cake.

 

[jerryboy]

No need to filter out the hops and other material, I don't generally. But with the fast ferment, why not use the collection ball to pull that stuff out after if you don't want it in the beer. Just delay pitching yeast for a bit.

 

[standpoint]

I don't filter at all going into my fermentor and never had an issue. As mentioned above, it would be problematic to harvest yeast if you don't filter though.

 

[Ungoliant]

I use whirlfloc tablets, a fine nylon hop bag for all hop/adjunct additions, and I also double filter my wort with an additional mesh bag around my funnel/strainer.

That, along with a good hot and cold break, I always have pretty clear beer.

 

[EthanH]

I think everybody else answered most of your questions, but regarding the Irish Moss...

The point of Irish Moss is to get the smaller particles to stick to the larger bits of moss (which then settles out of the wort). It's maximally effective if it can circulate through the wort, usually during the last 10-15 min of the boil.

 

[EthanH]

And as an additional note: I always use a hops bag for boil additions (but not dry hop) and I've never strained going into or coming out of the fermenter.

 

[sjm1027]

Thanks everyone, Looks like I will try my next batch without straining. I found that to be the biggest pain.
I was worried the narrowest part of the conical fermenter would get clogged.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[sjm1027]

I checked the fermenter tonight and it's 75 hours into my lager primary. Looks like the gasket feel into the wort when I was tightening the cover. I never heard it fall in. So being new and impatient I opened the cover to check the problem, found the gasket fell in and I put teflon tape around the threads 2 times around and tightened it up. Now the center piece of the lock is suspended BUT still no bubbles. I still have activity at the bottom of the conical fermenter BUT I am worried I may have infected the batch. I was careful but thought it was best to get it sealed. Comments, was it a bad move or not?At what point do I taste and decide to scrap or continue on with the batch?
Thanks

 

[BigFloyd]

At what point do I taste and decide to scrap or continue on with the batch?
Thanks

When it's completely finished fermenting. Even then it won't taste as good as the final, mature product. It will be "green".

Actual lagers are more of a challenge than basic mid-gravity ales. Are you doing this with a real lager yeast? How much yeast did you pitch and into what temperature wort? Did you aerate or oxygenate the wort before pitching? Are you taking steps to control fermentation temps? What are your cold lagering plans? These things all make a big difference in the brewing of a lager.

 

[sjm1027]

When it's completely finished fermenting. Even then it won't taste as good as the final, mature product. It will be "green".

Actual lagers are more of a challenge than basic mid-gravity ales. Are you doing this with a real lager yeast? How much yeast did you pitch and into what temperature wort? Did you aerate or oxygenate the wort before pitching? Are you taking steps to control fermentation temps? What are your cold lagering plans? These things all make a big difference in the brewing of a lager.

It was a dry lager yeast from the kit.
1 packet
Yes I did a vigorous stir for 5 minutes
Temp plan is what ever the room temp is.
I don't have plans other than the room the fermentor is in stays around 58 degrees and that's the best I can do for right now.

Just checked it this morning and the float is at half. Very little pressure and the activity on the bottom seems to have slowed.

one more question is how do I know if it's done or not if your air lock has no activity? What do you gauge this to. Do I use a Hydrometer and get it as close as the directions say it should be after 1st fermentation?

I'll just hope for the best.

 

[jmh286]

It was a dry lager yeast from the kit.

Temp plan is what ever the room temp is.


one more question is how do I know if it's done or not if your air lock has no activity? What do you gauge this to. Do I use a Hydrometer and get it as close as the directions say it should be after 1st fermentation?

Lagers really need cooler temperatures than your 58 degree room will give them. The yeast will increase the temperature inside the container as much as 7 or 8 degrees F during fermentation.

Are you planning on incorporating a diacetyl rest? After the majority of fermentation is completed, the fermenter is slowly warmed to ~68F to help the yeast process out diacetyl. Not doing this could result in a buttery flavor in your beer, that usually isn't pleasant.

The only way to know for sure if your beer is finished fermenting is to check with a hydrometer. The rule of thumb is if you get a stable reading for 3 days in a row, your beer is at it's final gravity. That doesn't necessarily mean that it's finished, and with lagers you still have several steps to take before you'll be able to drink it. I typically lager at ~34F for 3 weeks to a month before I start carbonating my lagers.

In the end, you'll still make beer, and there is a learning curve to this hobby. Don't get discouraged if you aren't blown away by your first beer, your process will get better and your beer will get better. Keep at it!

 

[BigFloyd]

It was a dry lager yeast from the kit.
1 packet
Yes I did a vigorous stir for 5 minutes
Temp plan is what ever the room temp is.
I don't have plans other than the room the fermentor is in stays around 58 degrees and that's the best I can do for right now.

.

It depends on what sort of kit you're using. Some "lager" kits include a generic ale yeast while others use an actual lager yeast like 34/70.

Don't put too much faith in your airlock showing activity or not. One little bitty leak is all it takes for the CO2 to escape, resulting in no bubbles. Let it ride a few weeks then take a hydro reading. That will tell you for sure if it's done.

Until you can control temps consistently in the low 50's and have the ability to cold lager for 5-8 weeks, you'll get better results with ales.

 

[sjm1027]

I found in my kit the hydrometer readings.
Estimated Original Gravity = 1.049
Estimated Final Gravity = 1.012
Estimated ABV = 4.9

When I take a hydrometer reading tomorrow after 1 week in primary (No activity) What should I expect or need to see for a reading before I move to secondary? I am using a conical fast ferment so I will be removing the ball at bottom holding the yeast. I don't know when to go from primary to secondary or when to remove the bottom section.
Thanks

 

[sjm1027]

I took a SG reading today at 1.018. Finished should be 1.012. I am now officially in the secondary. Very easy to do with the conical fast ferment. I will have to work on the seal before my next batch but this beer tastes great already. We'll see if I messed up or not.
My question is, will the beer always get to 1.012 or how do I know for sure when I am done? Do I just keep taking weekly readings and if nothing happens in a week I am ready to bottle?
Surprising the beer was very clear, from 1 to 5 on clarity it was a 3.5 and the color looked great.

Thanks for all your support thru this
Steve