First Cider Batch

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AidanSavage

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I've been reading these forums for a while now, and with christmas coming up, I decided that I'd give making hard cider a try. I also realize I should have posted this before I went ahead and started the first batch I've done, so I'll just preface this thread with "It's actively fermenting at this stage."


As for specifics, here's what I used:
  • 2 cans of Kroger store brand frozen conc juice (vit c only)
  • 1 large green apple (was nearing end of shelf life and the 2 cans of frozen werent quite a gallon)
  • 1 small red del. apple (fairly fresh, but for same reason as above)
  • 1 tablespoon of clover honey
  • 1/4 cup of regular white sugar
  • 3.0 to 3.8 grams of Nottingham yeast (scale I had to hand did not have decimal ability)
  • Water*

*Enough water to bring the 1 gallon glass carboy up to the 1 gallon point.

What I did first was, after sanitizing the carboy, funnel, and my arms, I mixed each can of the concentrate with 1 can of hot water (2 cans concentrate, 2 cans water) then poured into the carboy. I added 4 more cans of water, which would bring it up to ~.75 gallons. With the remaining 32 oz that would bring it up to a full gallon, 16 oz was used to dissolve the sugar and honey on the stove, then added to the carboy.

The remaining 16 oz was put into the same pot I used for the honey and sugar. To it I added the diced apples (skin included) and heated until simmering. Ran this concoction through the blender until it was the consistency of thick applesauce. Poured into a fine mesh sieve resting on the pot, then pressed for the juice. Juice, along with some finely crushed "sauce" that made it through the sieve, was then poured into the carboy.

Capping the carboy with the stopper, thumbed the whole (instead of airlock), swirled the stuff around to get a reasonably even mixture. Since I was using the Nottingham yeast, which calls for 100 mL/4 oz per .5-1 gram of yeast to hydrate, I poured off 16 ounces of the juice into a sanitized cup and added the yeast. After 10 minutes, the yeast was clearly working as the cup of juice was starting to ferment. Pitched the contents back into the carboy, capped with the stopper and airlock, swirled to mix as best as possible and set it in the morning room's only shaded corner. Time of locking: 00:15 this morning (11/27/2014).

Roughly an hour later the fermentation wasnt vigorous, but clearly taking place. ~9 hours in (which was when I woke up after passing out in the spare bedroom at my parents' house), vigorous fermentation was clearly present and taking place as the apple bits that made it through were further up the neck of the carboy (krausen?) instead of suspended at the surface. Sniffing at the airlock gave a yeasty smell with a small hint of apple.

15-16 hours in, fermentation still going at the same rate, but the "sniff test" was now giving a stronger apple scent. Unsure if that's from the apple bits in the neck or not, but I'll be optimistic.





Now then, for the questions~

1) First, because I could not purchase a hydrometer, mostly because I didnt think to ask about it and/or could not afford one if I did, I have no way of taking hard measurements. Because of this, if I let it run until fermentation falls off, would adding an undiluted can of concentrated AJ (12 oz) be a good method to reintroduce any flavors that may have been lost? I understand the other things that will occur if I do this, but these will be addressed in other questions.

2) (this one's a double) I do plan on bottling after primary, and intend on bottle conditioning (I know of and will do the soda bottle control). Would it be recommended to add a 1/4 cup of sugar (total batch is only a gallon instead of 5) as a primer in addition to the can of concentrate to lessen the impact on the flavors I'm trying to reintroduce? (As an alternative for a more visual presentation, what do you think about using an apple wedge [1/8th or smaller of a small apple) per bottle to provide the priming and a visual impact?) For the second part, because of the potential for the batch finishing fermentation before I'm able obtain bottles (whether purchase, f&f, or scavenging), is it reasonable to cool it down to ~35 degrees via storage inside a garage? Not sure if it'd be considered cold crashing or not, but I'll readily admit I jumped without thinking it through entirely. So I'd like to know if this would be suitable for storing it in a controlled fashion until bottles are available.

3) Finally, last question for now, if I allow it to ferment to the end, regardless of storing at low temp or not, would it still bottle condition if I transferred it from primary to a bottling solution (at the moment this'll likely be using a 1 gallon pitcher and a funnel to bottle)? Or would I need to agitate the carboy a bit to return a bit of yeast to suspension in order to bottle condition?


Last but not least, here's an imgur album with a couple pictures: https://imgur.com/a/swNSw 1: purchased supplies; carboy/lock ~$6, notty ~$4, juice concentrate ~$2.5. 2: carboy at ~9 hours in. 3: closer picture of fermentation at ~9 hours.



Oh, one last question, regarding picture 2, I'm under the assumption that the light-cream colored layer is going to be what ends up as the yeast cake. Would it be worth trying to wash/preserve some of that after going to bottle even if I still have roughly 3/4ths of the notty package left (just in case of viability problems)?
 
It sounds like you did your homework!

I take it you're going for a sparkling cider so I'll answer your questions under that assumption.

Question 1: Adding a can of FAJC is a good way of back-sweetening. It also works great for primering your cider before bottling.

Question 2: I would not add any primer sugar. I'd let the FAJC do that work for you. As far as the apple wedge, I think it "sounds" like a great idea but in the end I suspect you'd end up with a bloated soggy apple floating in your bottles with deteriorated pieces floating around. I'd skip that if it were me but A+ for some ballin' creative thinking.

Question 3: Yes it would still bottle condition. Really, bottle conditioning is just about letting the flavors meld together.

Your other question: I wouldn't try to save the yeast. Unless you're a survivalist or in prison with no access to a LHBS its not worth the risk or hassle in my opinion.

Good luck and keep us posted on how it turns out!
-Matt
 
1) FAJC is great for back sweetening. I've never tried it without using K Meta or K Sorbate to sterilize yeast. I suppose you could pasteurize your bottles so that your yeast dies and doesn't create a bottle grenade. I had a Mason jar go into re-ferment mode and nearly take out the kitchen. I Found shards of glass months afterwards, and in places I never would have expected.

2) I have back sweetened with 5oz of dextrose sugar per 5 gallons. Do 1 oz. For one gallon. FAJC may contain way too much sugar to bottle condition with. See above explosion of the Mason jar. Maybe you could use the FAJC, and then pasteurize after a few days? I've never tried it, but it doesn't mean it couldn't be done. I'm sure someone with more experience could chime in on this one

I've used the dextrose for carbonation, but added sucralose for back sweetening. It seems to work, most people really enjoy the artificially sweetened Cider I make in bottles. Since I started kegging, I moved away from this and used the K meta and FAJC to sweeten it.

Skip the apple. It will make everything brown and cloudy. Garnish with an apple slice or a cinnamon stick when serving. That's the good stuff, right there.

3) ciders can condition for a long time, especially if the abv is high. The longer, the better with high abv ciders/apelwein. After a year, my apelwein was stellar. The early tastes were good, but the older stuff was great. It sounds like yours is less than 7%, so it should be good regardless of time. Let it sit at room temperature to carbonate (2 weeks) and then set it in the garage.

3.1) you can definitely save the yeast. I sanitize a large 1qt Mason jar, swirl up my yeast after I keg/bottle with the remaining 6oz of Cider liquid, and dump it all into the sanitized jar. I've used the same strain of WLP002 for 7 generations. It still produces great ciders. I just dump it all in when fermenting, no starter required.

Out of curiosity, what yeast did you use? I've found ale yeasts appeal to my tastes as opposed to wine/champagne yeasts.

My LHBS also has non sugar sweetener / flavorings for wine/beer/ciders. It's made by ld Carlson, so it's ok stuff. It may be worth checking into, as they have an apple flavor that you can do into your Cider to give it the apple sweetness that sometimes gets stripped with fermentation. I just kegged a 6% Cider made with Indian Summer apple cider, (my wife's favorite), WLP002, and cherry flavoring. Preliminary tastes are good, we'll see if I need more cherry once it fully carbs up.

Best of luck with future ciders!
 
Out of curiosity, what yeast did you use? I've found ale yeasts appeal to my tastes as opposed to wine/champagne yeasts.

Nottingham is what was used after personal research and recommendation from LHBS. I did use an amount of yeast on the higher side of the scale based on packet directions, so I've considered drawing off a cup or so off the top, storing that in a sanitized mason jar that will be chilled the same as the carboy itself to slow any yeast action leftover. However, instead of pouring off from the mason jar, I'd be able to use said jar's contents as a refresher of sorts for active yeast once I rack for bottling to make sure it'll carb in the bottle.

As for too much sugar from the FAJC, I intend to pasteurize according to pappers' thread (10 minutes at 170) once the test bottle shows the level of carbonation I'd like.


Another question, as well. If I cannot get an autosiphon, what would be the best way to get the cider off the sediment that wouldnt risk pouring it out with the sider? Perhaps a cheesecloth or coffee filter to pour the cider through?

Also, is it a risk if the cider's exposed to open air when transferring to storage containers, even if it's the minimally unavoidable exposure?
 
Another question, as well. If I cannot get an autosiphon, what would be the best way to get the cider off the sediment that wouldnt risk pouring it out with the sider? Perhaps a cheesecloth or coffee filter to pour the cider through?

Also, is it a risk if the cider's exposed to open air when transferring to storage containers, even if it's the minimally unavoidable exposure?

My disclaimer is that I am no expert in the matter. Additional research and cross referencing my blather with more reliable sources is recommended. :p

I would go out and get an auto siphon. It will solve both of these issues. You can also pick up a bottling wand to make bottling easier. I used a racking cane once time. I struggled with trying to get the flow going, gave up, went to the LHBS and bought the auto siphon. I've since purchased several of them (various sizes, brewing mishaps, etc). I use them all the time for beer and Cider.

It sounds like your tipping and pouring from one container to another? Are you transferring using vinyl tubing? I wouldn't worry too much about open air, but splashing and oxidizing by pouring through a cheesecloth could pose some problems. If possible, use a racking cane or tube get to control the transfer between vessels. You could use techniques to clear your sediment like cold crashing or gelatin finings (or both) to minimize your sediment transfer, but you do want a little bit of yeast to go with it if you want that carbonation level in bottles.

If you're careful with the transfer when bottling, the small residual yeast left over will be sufficient to carbonate your Cider. I haven't had a problem with bottle carbing, and haven't needed to add yeast to assist with carbonation. With bottle conditioning the remaining yeast cells will eat the sugars to create a tiny amount of alcohol and co2. It will settle out on the bottom of the bottle. It's a matter of being careful when pouring so as to not disturb the bottom sediment and keep your Cider clear. You will kill your yeast when you pasteurize, halting fermentation and leaving residual sweetness.

Notty is a good choice. There was an article I read in Zymurgy that did a side by side comparison between several yeast strains and the same recipe of Cider. It seemed that ale yeasts were preferred over the wine yeasts, since they don't tend to dry out as much.

Best of luck with the Cider!
 
There will be plenty of yeast when you bottle you'd have to let it sit for months before it was a problem. But save and reuse the yeast.

Definitely do not pour the cider through a strainer. It will oxidize faster. Get a piece of tubing about 6 feet long and siphon carefully. An auto siphon is easiest but a tube is next best.
 
I use an auto siphon but a racking came is just as good. Just put in one place in the carboy and the first slurp will have sediment, toss that, the rest will be clear.
 
Alright, just posting a quick update, as of an hour ago, the fermentation is noticeably slower, and I'm guessing that the yeast is nearing the end of the sugars present. I am wondering if this is considered too fast, as at midnight, it'd have only been about 72 hours since the yeast was pitched. It's probably safe to contribute this to the amount of yeast added, but I'm worried if this is going to produce a noticeable yeasty taste even if cold-crashed several times.

No picture at hand, but it's bubbling more than the 3rd image on the imgur album I linked, but the airlock activity is about 1 every 15 seconds.
 
Just let it go. Give it some time. When it looks like it has stopped take a gravity measurement.
 
Just let it go. Give it some time. When it looks like it has stopped take a gravity measurement.

No hydro presently to take a measurement, though I intend to try and pick one up if they arent an excessively high price (working on a budget), as bottling equipment will take a bit of a priority this month unless I can convince parents to pick some up for christmas this year. That being said, once it's slowed to the point I'm only picking out bubbles in the cider every 15-30 seconds, it'll be stuck in the garage to cold crash and wait until bottling equipment is at hand.
 
Triple scale hydrometer less than $7 on Amazon and free shipping if you have Amazon Prime.
 
It's cider. Give it time to ferment. I usually give mine several weeks in primary. Do not trust it is done when bubbles stop. Bottle bombs suck.

Hydrometers are cheap. It is the most important tool that you need.

As far as bottles, go ask a bar that serves craft beer. They are usually glad to get rid of them. Then you need a $5 tube and a bottling wand a capper and caps. You could also use plastic soda bottles as long as your process is such that you will not get bottle bombs.

I had a cider this weekend that was still and sweet. I mixed with my English bitter. Yummy
 
Alright, another update and question. First, having been nearly 1 week fermenting, I'll be shoving the cider out into the garage at my parents' house where the cider will be chilling for 1.5-3 days and then bottled this weekend, assuming I can get hold of materials necessary, otherwise it'll just stay there for a bit longer.

Now the question. Has anyone ever seen a chart like the one at http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm ? Due to not having a hydro at the start, I've been looking at methods to get a rough estimate of the OG/SG before pitching the yeast. From what I've been able to recover as far as info, the total sugar amount, allowing for some guessing, is roughly 172 grams per liter, and that line on the chart comes out to an OG/SG of just under 1.065. Would this be a reasonable assumption to use as the first figure once I'm able to measure the FG?
 
Leave it in the house for a few weeks. You want the yeast to eat up some of the potential off flavors like sulfur. Be patient is your 2nd major lesson. First is buy hydrometer
 
Alright, another update and question. First, having been nearly 1 week fermenting, I'll be shoving the cider out into the garage at my parents' house where the cider will be chilling for 1.5-3 days and then bottled this weekend, assuming I can get hold of materials necessary, otherwise it'll just stay there for a bit longer.



Now the question. Has anyone ever seen a chart like the one at http://www.brsquared.org/wine/CalcInfo/HydSugAl.htm ? Due to not having a hydro at the start, I've been looking at methods to get a rough estimate of the OG/SG before pitching the yeast. From what I've been able to recover as far as info, the total sugar amount, allowing for some guessing, is roughly 172 grams per liter, and that line on the chart comes out to an OG/SG of just under 1.065. Would this be a reasonable assumption to use as the first figure once I'm able to measure the FG?


Get another bottle and measure the gravity. That should be close.
 
Alright, so today I was able to check up on the cider. Several things I noticed- first, the cider has not cleared, though a lot of the apple bits that got through my impromptu juicing adventure have settled on the cake, so I'm guessing the haze to it is from that. Second, with absolutely no airlock activity, and no bubbles visible in the cider (until agitated as I brought it in for taste sampling), I'm reasonably sure the yeast has been sufficiently chilled so that it started dropping out of the cider, though I've not seen much change in the yeast cake's appearance besides the apple bits.

Third, and the most important bit: the taste! To do this, since there's little headspace, I used fresh straws (individually sealed in plastic, not the paper crap). I removed the airlock, set it aside in a small/narrow cup to avoid losing any water in it, and dipped the straw through the stopper's hole, capped it with a finger, then pulled it out. Since there was not a whole lot to taste with this method, I took my time. Initial taste was sort of tart, but felt overwhelmingly dry, almost like a champagne, with about as much taste. A second taste had the same dryness, but had a definite apple flavor if I wasnt imagining things. I'm wondering how much of that dryness might be from dissolved CO2 that hasnt been agitated out, and if that will ease when bottling.

At any rate, my intentions now are to either purchase another carboy along with bottling materials or a glass gallon of juice from the store when I pick up the FAJC. Said container will be what I rack into for bottling out of, after sweetening to taste. Pictures to come later!
 
Whoa there. Have you thought through how you stop carbonation and when? Bottle bombs are not fun. If you want no carbonation then you need to kill yeast chemically or using heat.

Give it 2 weeks at 34-36 degrees and it may clear more if you want it to.
 
Whoa there. Have you thought through how you stop carbonation and when? Bottle bombs are not fun. If you want no carbonation then you need to kill yeast chemically or using heat.

Give it 2 weeks at 34-36 degrees and it may clear more if you want it to.

I've decided against trying a carbed cider for a first batch, so I'll be pasteurizing no later than an hour after I finish bottling. As for clarity, I dont mind the haze too much as long as it's got a desirable taste due to it being a first batch. For me, the first batch is more akin to a proof of concept, and from the second batch and going forward, I can afford to work with the variables more.
 
With what's coming up this month, I may not be able age them for that long. At best they'll be aged for ~2 weeks before being sent with my parents to a holiday "work" party on the 19th, as well as family coming up the day after. So the first couple batches I brew will be drunk young almost in their entirety.

My two main concern going forward though, is since I'll be brewing in small batch increments (1gal), are yeast viability and hydro measurements in late fermentation. The reason I'm concerned about yeast viability is that I would like to continue using Nottingham yeast. However, if my LHBS does not sell it in anything smaller than 11g packs, it would mean needing to brew 3 side by side batches to use all the yeast at once (~3.8g is max pitch rate per gallon). Or brewing 1 gal at a time and hoping the yeast remained viable after 2 weeks of being opened (despite taped shut and stored in a seal ziploc bag). In situations like this, would it be worth considering trying to recover from the yeast cake to immediately begin a successive batch?

As far as hydro measurements, my concern is that, depending on the amount of liquid required to get a reasonably accurate measurement, I may only get two chance to measure the FG to see if I obtained the goal I wanted for that gallon batch. I know wine thieves can allow you to both measure and return the sample, but I dont know if my LHBS will carry one small enough for 1gal carboys (midwest certainly doesnt).
 
UPDATE!

Cider was just bottled! Still had a haze, but whether or not it clears with age, I dont care. Since I could only find a 3qt glass jug of apple juice (no, apple cider (Santa Cruze 'organic' apple juice, 96oz jug)), which was emptied into three 1qt containers, I had to fill bottles in 2 batches. First batch was 3 bottles (and a minor overflow of the first bottle) at the "full" sweetness, and the second batch was 7.5 bottles at a milder sweetness.

Flavor profile is rather interesting as well. No longer overwhelmingly dry, it has definite apple flavors, a bit tart, with the alcohol punch being not being so overwhelming or obvious. For a first batch, it's definitely not Woodchuck, but it's not apple vinegar either.

Pasteurizing wont take place tonight, but I'll look at doing it tomorrow. Until then, and if I decide not to pasteurize, they're going to be stuck inside the bottom shelf of the fridge. Tomorrow I'll be doing a second batch with the santa cruze brand.
 
If you don't pasteurize make sure you do not let them warm up or it will start fermenting again. Good luck and welcome to a new obsession
 
UPDATE!



Cider was just bottled! Still had a haze, but whether or not it clears with age, I dont care. Since I could only find a 3qt glass jug of apple juice (no, apple cider (Santa Cruze 'organic' apple juice, 96oz jug)), which was emptied into three 1qt containers, I had to fill bottles in 2 batches. First batch was 3 bottles (and a minor overflow of the first bottle) at the "full" sweetness, and the second batch was 7.5 bottles at a milder sweetness.



Flavor profile is rather interesting as well. No longer overwhelmingly dry, it has definite apple flavors, a bit tart, with the alcohol punch being not being so overwhelming or obvious. For a first batch, it's definitely not Woodchuck, but it's not apple vinegar either.



Pasteurizing wont take place tonight, but I'll look at doing it tomorrow. Until then, and if I decide not to pasteurize, they're going to be stuck inside the bottom shelf of the fridge. Tomorrow I'll be doing a second batch with the santa cruze brand.


Pasteurize. Pasteurize. Pasteurize.
 
With what's coming up this month, I may not be able age them for that long. At best they'll be aged for ~2 weeks before being sent with my parents to a holiday "work" party on the 19th, as well as family coming up the day after. So the first couple batches I brew will be drunk young almost in their entirety.



My two main concern going forward though, is since I'll be brewing in small batch increments (1gal), are yeast viability and hydro measurements in late fermentation. The reason I'm concerned about yeast viability is that I would like to continue using Nottingham yeast. However, if my LHBS does not sell it in anything smaller than 11g packs, it would mean needing to brew 3 side by side batches to use all the yeast at once (~3.8g is max pitch rate per gallon). Or brewing 1 gal at a time and hoping the yeast remained viable after 2 weeks of being opened (despite taped shut and stored in a seal ziploc bag). In situations like this, would it be worth considering trying to recover from the yeast cake to immediately begin a successive batch?



As far as hydro measurements, my concern is that, depending on the amount of liquid required to get a reasonably accurate measurement, I may only get two chance to measure the FG to see if I obtained the goal I wanted for that gallon batch. I know wine thieves can allow you to both measure and return the sample, but I dont know if my LHBS will carry one small enough for 1gal carboys (midwest certainly doesnt).


The yeast should be fine for a couple weeks. Many say not, but some do it all the time.

Even better, save the yeast from this batch. There are calculators to se how much to use.
 
Did u do a plastic test bottle?

Is it getting hard yet?

No to both. All 10 bottles are in the fridge at cold-crash temps. Everything was done immediately after pulling the carboy out of the fridge, racking, backsweetening, bottling, capping, then immediately back into the fridge. Having dug around at my parents house, their canning pot is too short for the bottles, so unless they've got a deeper one in the basement, stovetop's out.

In the meantime, I'm gonna enjoy my late breakfast as I drink the half-bottle.

edit: almost forgot I took a picture!

jh2JXMc.jpg



(dear god the fullsize is massive, I suppose that's what I get for using an iphone to take the picture)
 
The bottles don't need to be submerged to pasteurize. I use a spaghetti pot. The necks are exposed. It's all about heat transfer from the water to the cider. The water cools off as the cider temp rises.
 
Alright, final update. Bottles were pasteurized and stored on the 8th. Finally cracked open a second one (first was last Friday) tonight, taste was much better. Not a lot of tart, apple flavor's more pronounced, overall pretty good. No woodchuck or strongbow on hand to compare though. Cleared up more than in the last photo as well, though not as clear as straight apple juice. Did notice some stuff that settled in the bottle, whether it was dead yeast or just bad mixing I dunno.

The drinkability is made even better when I did 1/3rd AJ 2/3rd hard cider. Eases the bite quite a bit, so I'll probably be making ice cubes out of apple juice.
 

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