First brew: Looking for pointers on anything dumb I'm doing.

[AttentionAaron]

I'm a beginner brewer, trying to make something for my dad (a Hefeweizen from a 1-gal homebrew kit). I've done few dry runs for part of the process.

I'm currently looking for pointers on anything dumb I'm doing.

I'm using a 5-gal bucket to sanitize things, but I should have used a wider bin to allow things like the thermometer to get fully soaked. I'm sanitizing things, including the carboy, by scooping water w/ a bowl/tupperware, and coating it.

• Some good things I think I'm doing: I think I'm keeping things clean, and I'm keeping a close eye (on my practice run) w/ keeping the water at 155 degrees for the "specialty grain" steep.
• Some challenging things:
  • The specialty grain steep (for 20 minutes), where I have to keep the water at 155 degrees to avoid releasing unwanted tannins(?) was a monk-like exercise in meditation.
  • I found it esp. difficult to hold the cheese cloth (a rag, in the practice run) in the water but above the bottom, while holding the thermometer. I also found it difficult to correct the temperature back to 155. (If it's at 153, and I keep the flame on until 155, there's heat from the stove top that continues to transfer into the pan, carrying it to 157 + the analog thermometer I had was simply slow to read)

I'm glad I did this as a practice round, b/c I missed that I need to cool the wort, b/c yeast are ingrateful bastards who don't like the hot, near-boiling water that I give them. I did not have the ice, and thus my gratitude that this was a practice round.

I have a lot of little improvements incoming like using a digital thermometer, finding clearer "cues"/signals to wash my hands (I plan to just dip them in the sanitizing solution), and most of all, reduce the fatigue during the steeping (and probably boiling) process.

That all said, do you have ideas off the top of your head of dumb things to avoid? I wonder if there's anything specific that I should share (there's a lot of steps, 19+ that I wrote down).

I'm a beginner, so I'm likely missing something important. Thank you so much for your time!

 

[mac_1103]

• The specialty grain steep (for 20 minutes), where I have to keep the water at 155 degrees to avoid releasing unwanted tannins(?) was a monk-like exercise in meditation.
• I found it esp. difficult to hold the cheese cloth (a rag, in the practice run) in the water but above the bottom, while holding the thermometer. I also found it difficult to correct the temperature back to 155.

I think you're worrying about this part too much. It's OK if you steep a little lower than 155 (but as you note, steeping too hot can cause problems). Just heat the water to 155, turn off the heat, drop in the bag and let it stand for 20-30 minutes.

As for sanitizing, assuming that you're using Starsan or something similar, a long soak isn't really necessary. Mopping things with a rag is usually sufficient. A spray bottle can also be very effective.

Getting the chlorine out of your water is pretty important. Other than that, maybe tell us what kit you're using and we can give more specific advice.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Welcome to HomeBrewTalk @AttentionAaron .

Steeping does not require precise temperature control. Heat the water to 155F, add the grains, maybe swirl the bag every five minutes for 20 minutes, then remove the grains and heat to a boil. Some kit instructions use a process where the grains are added at "flame on" then removed after 20 minutes (assuming the water doesn't get above about 160F in those 20 minutes).

Sanitize the carboy by pouring a small amount of sanitizer into the carboy then swirl the carboy to get all the inside surfaces wet (pour out the excess). A spray bottle filled with sanitizer works well applying sanitizer to items that are too big to dunk in the pail.

When cooling in a kitchen sink, it's more important to have ice at the end of the cool down. I have extra fridge space, so I always have a couple of 1 gal jugs of cool (42F) water. In the last stage of the cool down, I'll use the 42F water + ice to get the wort from about 80F to pitching temperature.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I'm a beginner brewer, trying to make something for my dad (a Hefeweizen from a 1-gal homebrew kit). I've done few dry runs for part of the process.

I'm currently looking for pointers on anything dumb I'm doing.

I'm using a 5-gal bucket to sanitize things, but I should have used a wider bin to allow things like the thermometer to get fully soaked. I'm sanitizing things, including the carboy, by scooping water w/ a bowl/tupperware, and coating it.

• Some good things I think I'm doing: I think I'm keeping things clean, and I'm keeping a close eye (on my practice run) w/ keeping the water at 155 degrees for the "specialty grain" steep.
• Some challenging things:
  • The specialty grain steep (for 20 minutes), where I have to keep the water at 155 degrees to avoid releasing unwanted tannins(?) was a monk-like exercise in meditation.
  • I found it esp. difficult to hold the cheese cloth (a rag, in the practice run) in the water but above the bottom, while holding the thermometer. I also found it difficult to correct the temperature back to 155. (If it's at 153, and I keep the flame on until 155, there's heat from the stove top that continues to transfer into the pan, carrying it to 157 + the analog thermometer I had was simply slow to read)

I'm glad I did this as a practice round, b/c I missed that I need to cool the wort, b/c yeast are ingrateful bastards who don't like the hot, near-boiling water that I give them. I did not have the ice, and thus my gratitude that this was a practice round.

I have a lot of little improvements incoming like using a digital thermometer, finding clearer "cues"/signals to wash my hands (I plan to just dip them in the sanitizing solution), and most of all, reduce the fatigue during the steeping (and probably boiling) process.

That all said, do you have ideas off the top of your head of dumb things to avoid? I wonder if there's anything specific that I should share (there's a lot of steps, 19+ that I wrote down).

I'm a beginner, so I'm likely missing something important. Thank you so much for your time!

Welcome to the group!

It's hard to tell from a lot of the chatter here but we all started out as beginners. Brewing beer isn't that hard if you follow some simple rules. The above comments are solid pointers you're always going to follow.

Keeping everything clean including your work area is great advice but sanitizing is key.

Keep notes of every brew you do including tasting notes after it's done. A notebook works fine. I recently found mine that I first started using 40 years ago. I use Beer Smith now.

Everyone here is very helpful so keep learning and asking questions! Also have fun!

 

[BRbarfanTimmy]

I'm using a 5-gal bucket to sanitize things, but I should have used a wider bin to allow things like the thermometer to get fully soaked. I'm sanitizing things, including the carboy, by scooping water w/ a bowl/tupperware, and coating it.

I use a five gallon bucket for sanitizing (starsan). As the others have mentioned use a spray bottle for oversized items. I like the "swedish-style" dishcloths for wiping things down. You will spend a lot more time cleaning and sanitizing than you think, and its absolutely necessary. Take notes and have a process for the different steps from brewing to bottling to cleanup. Cleaning and sanitizing are not the same and there are a lot of posts on this.

• I found it esp. difficult to hold the cheese cloth (a rag, in the practice run) in the water but above the bottom, while holding the thermometer. I also found it difficult to correct the temperature back to 155. (If it's at 153, and I keep the flame on until 155, there's heat from the stove top that continues to transfer into the pan, carrying it to 157 + the analog thermometer I had was simply slow to read)

I brew in a five gallon pot and use a binder clip to hold the grain bag in place. You can also use a long wooden spoon placed on the pot and tie the bag to it. I would highly recommend a digital thermometer too. I use a Thermapen to take temps during steeping, boiling, and cool down. Just dip in sanitizer in between uses. 100% agree with the comments on temp management from the others.

That all said, do you have ideas off the top of your head of dumb things to avoid? I wonder if there's anything specific that I should share (there's a lot of steps, 19+ that I wrote down).

Forgetting the priming sugar when bottling is a pretty common miss. Also make sure you have everything you need before you start the brewing process - tools and ingredients. Finally, patience is the biggest thing I've learned so far. Fermentation is never by the book, nor is carbonation and bottling time. Like you I have an obsession with cleanliness which is super important, but second to that is patience.

Welcome to the group!

 

[SFC Rudy]

Read the first few chapters of How to Brew by John Palmer. And watch this
https://www.homebrewersassociation....er/how-to-brew-video-series-with-john-palmer/

 

[sixstring]

I'm a beginner brewer, trying to make something for my dad (a Hefeweizen from a 1-gal homebrew kit). I've done few dry runs for part of the process.

I'm currently looking for pointers on anything dumb I'm doing.

I'm using a 5-gal bucket to sanitize things, but I should have used a wider bin to allow things like the thermometer to get fully soaked. I'm sanitizing things, including the carboy, by scooping water w/ a bowl/tupperware, and coating it.

• Some good things I think I'm doing: I think I'm keeping things clean, and I'm keeping a close eye (on my practice run) w/ keeping the water at 155 degrees for the "specialty grain" steep.
• Some challenging things:
  • The specialty grain steep (for 20 minutes), where I have to keep the water at 155 degrees to avoid releasing unwanted tannins(?) was a monk-like exercise in meditation.
  • I found it esp. difficult to hold the cheese cloth (a rag, in the practice run) in the water but above the bottom, while holding the thermometer. I also found it difficult to correct the temperature back to 155. (If it's at 153, and I keep the flame on until 155, there's heat from the stove top that continues to transfer into the pan, carrying it to 157 + the analog thermometer I had was simply slow to read)

I'm glad I did this as a practice round, b/c I missed that I need to cool the wort, b/c yeast are ingrateful bastards who don't like the hot, near-boiling water that I give them. I did not have the ice, and thus my gratitude that this was a practice round.

I have a lot of little improvements incoming like using a digital thermometer, finding clearer "cues"/signals to wash my hands (I plan to just dip them in the sanitizing solution), and most of all, reduce the fatigue during the steeping (and probably boiling) process.

That all said, do you have ideas off the top of your head of dumb things to avoid? I wonder if there's anything specific that I should share (there's a lot of steps, 19+ that I wrote down).

I'm a beginner, so I'm likely missing something important. Thank you so much for your time!

Alrighty, I'm pretty new myself compared to the veterans around here. So here's my input from a newer brewer (btw, this is not going to contradict anything you've already had posted, because they know their sheet )

Here goes:
I sanitize everything in my kitchen sink pretty much and never had an issue. The big thing is to use a good sanitizer. Starsan is so good. It's a bit pricey but I've never had a bad batch of beer, so I consider it worth the cost.
Sanitizing everything you use is pretty much the golden rule. I even sanitize my brew kettle even though boiling the wort is going to do that job for me too. I just make sure it's all done.
Next don't then put your nicely sanitized gear down on an un-sanitized surface. Or you just reversed all that fun sanitizing process. I unroll some tin foil (aluminum foil to you) and then spray it down with sanitizer and lay all my kit on that. siphon, stirring spoon, etc.
If you keep things clean, you really can't go wrong with the rest I think.

Steeping grains - The range is a bit more forgiving than keeping it at 155. All the kits i've brewed always say between 150-165. And no one's complained yet. What I do is bring it all the way up to 165, then plop the grain bag in, turn the heat off, tie it to the side of the kettle handle and let it sit for the 20 minutes it calls for to steep. Never thought about moving it about or anything. I just leave it there, go read a chapter of a book or pour a beer, make sure I have all my other steps ready to go, etc. You definitely don't need to hold the bag though. If you don't have handles on your brew kettle, then just find a wooden spoon or kitchen utensil that will fit across the diameter of the kettle and tie the bag to that. (got a bit of wood in your garage or something? Dowel rod?)

Once you're done with steeping and bring it to boil, just be super careful of boil over on the stove. It's really really easy to cause if you take your eyes off it for a moment when adding the malt. Be ready to pick up the pan/kettle/pot off the heat and then let it back down. Or have a spray bottle of starsan mixture. If you spray it onto the wort that's boiling up, it will help keep it from boiling over (I can't guarantee it always works, I've had to throw the spray bottle and grab the kettle multiple times, but it does help).

Then when you're cooling from boiling to get it to yeast pitching temp, if you have nothing else, just put it in an ice bath. It'll use a fair bit of ice, but you can easily prepare ahead of time by putting some water into some large container that will sit on its own and not tip over. Then stuff that in the freezer. The bigger the block you can make the better. Do as many of those as you can and you'll cool that wort down in no time. Especially if it's only a little 1 gallon batch.

While you cool things down, make sure that EVERYTHING you are now going to touch the wort with is sanitized again. Spray it down. Doesn't need a big dunk.

And most importantly, once you're at the right temp, and you've moved your wort into the fermenter, don't forget to add the yeast It's more common than you think.

Then just leave the beer alone for 2-3 weeks. Literally, don't touch it. Just let it sit in a cool (65ish), dark place. Make sure the the airlock remains filled with water to the correct level, but otherwise leave it be. Oh and if you have a little tray/container to put the fermenter in, do so, in case you get a lot of blow off mess (krausen i think it's called, but I don't rightly know). But it's easier to clean up any mess it makes from a container than from your carpet

After it's sat for 2-3 weeks, then bottle it.
If you don't have any bottles, then buy some beer that has BROWN bottles and use those. But make sure you (yep, you've guessed it) sanitize them properly.
I used to just dump mine in the dishwasher on the sanitize cycle so it steamed their bollocks off. But rinse them with starsan mixture too, so they're completely done.
When you bottle, if you forgot to use the priming sugar, or want to use sugar at the bottling stage, then now you just need to measure out enough table sugar to each bottle. I found table sugar works, but my bottles didn't all turn out the same fizziness. So I'd advise maybe three quarters of a tea spoon (others might say half, others may say different. I never got reliable results, so I can't say for certain what the best amount is. I can tell you the carbonation tablets will really fizz your beer pretty massively. So if you use those, cut them in half and put half in a bottle. Those things went nuts in my bottles. Open and got a foam volcano.

Hopefully that helps you and anyone else that's new too.
The best advice (aside from sanitizing everything) I can give is to not be afraid and just give it a shot. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how good the beer turns out.

 

[IslandLizard]

Very good instructions! ^

After it's sat for 2-3 weeks, then bottle it.

Let me add:
After those 2-3 weeks, it's recommended to take 2 gravity samples, 3 days apart. Only if they match and are close to the expected final gravity (FG), it's usually safe to bottle.
Otherwise, let them be in a warmish place for another week, and take readings again. Etc....

 

[sixstring]

Very good instructions! ^


Let me add:
After those 2-3 weeks, it's recommended to take 2 gravity samples, 3 days apart. Only if they match and are close to the expected final gravity (FG), it's usually safe to bottle.
Otherwise, let them be in a warmish place for another week, and take readings again. Etc....

I knew I'd forgotten something (I always forget it during brew day too)

 

[IslandLizard]

I knew I'd forgotten something (I always forget it during brew day too)

If that's worst you're forgetting during brew day, you doing very well!

 

[sixstring]

If that's worst you're forgetting during brew day, you doing very well!

Yup, I have forgotten it more times than I've used it. Almost forgot the yeast on my last batch but noticed it as i turned around to get my dolly ready to haul the fermenter into the other room (I know 5 gallon buckets aren't that bad to move, but I'd rather avoid any accidents. So I just use my costco cosco dolly that turns into a little hand cart thing, and wheel it into the other room. Saves accidents and saves my back if i lift it badly (which I have done in the past).

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Yup, I have forgotten it more times than I've used it. Almost forgot the yeast on my last batch but noticed it as i turned around to get my dolly ready to haul the fermenter into the other room (I know 5 gallon buckets aren't that bad to move, but I'd rather avoid any accidents. So I just use my costco cosco dolly that turns into a little hand cart thing, and wheel it into the other room. Saves accidents and saves my back if i lift it badly (which I have done in the past).

Safety first!

 

[ncbrewer]

You can see from the posts above that there are quite a few items involved here. There are a lot more, too. I highly recommend getting How to Brew, E4. As it suggests, ideally you would read the first ten chapters before brewing. But at a minimum read the first chapter before brewing.

I'll note that since this book came out, yeast manufacturers have changed their recommendations: 1) Dry pitching is fine. 2) Aeration is not normally needed.

 

[Skeeter686]

I ensure that everything is clean prior to the boil, but because it's going to be boiled, I don't think there's a need to be obsessive about sanitizing things prior to the boil. I mean, it won't hurt anything, but why make more work for yourself? On the other hand, sanitizing after the boil is very important.

About the only thing that occurs to me which I don't think has been mentioned is for the extract addition. You'll probably want to bring things to a boil and then turn off the heat prior to adding the extract (liquid or dry). Liquid could collect on the bottom of the pot and scorch. Dry will get sticky and start clumping because of the steam, which will make it more annoying to use. After it's dissolved, resume your boil.

Also, nice job on doing a dry run! You've already discovered that it helps you to identify things you forgot about or that you could make more efficient.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

A couple of alternative approaches for adding DME/LME

• add it after removing the steeping grains (around 155F). There's little or no steam at this point.
• when adding it to boiling wort, make a 'slurry' using with some of the water.

I've used both approaches with DME and could provide additional details if there is interest.

 

[AttentionAaron]

This is a gold mine of information! I look forward to going through this when my power's back on/computer's available. Thank you! (Esp. on the temp management for steeping, oh my gosh)

 

[sixstring]

A couple of alternative approaches for adding DME/LME

• add it after removing the steeping grains (around 155F). There's little or no steam at this point.
• when adding it to boiling wort, make a 'slurry' using with some of the water.

I've used both approaches with DME and could provide additional details if there is interest.

Skeeter:
About the only thing that occurs to me which I don't think has been mentioned is for the extract addition. You'll probably want to bring things to a boil and then turn off the heat prior to adding the extract (liquid or dry). Liquid could collect on the bottom of the pot and scorch. Dry will get sticky and start clumping because of the steam, which will make it more annoying to use. After it's dissolved, resume your boil.

Wait. What? You can do this and it's ok?
I always just followed the instructions on the BB kits and it never mentions to add before the boil is rolling.
I'd much prefer to add it first and then get it boiling, since it's not fun to stick your hands over the top of a boiling kettle and get scalded by steam.

 

[Skeeter686]

Wait. What? You can do this and it's ok?
I always just followed the instructions on the BB kits and it never mentions to add before the boil is rolling.
I'd much prefer to add it first and then get it boiling, since it's not fun to stick your hands over the top of a boiling kettle and get scalded by steam.

I believe I've seen kits with instructions to add extract late in the boil, but I don't believe that's common. For such a kit, I would pause the boil before adding the extract. For one thing, you don't want liquid extract settling to the bottom and scorching.

Regarding BrewnWKopperKat's suggestion, I don't see why there would be any problem with adding the extract before the boil. Just make sure it's dissolved (i.e., not settled on the bottom) before cranking up the heat.

A little extra time in hot water shouldn't affect the extract in any significant way. It's not even boiling yet, so I don't even think it would affect the color.

 

[sixstring]

I believe I've seen kits with instructions to add extract late in the boil, but I don't believe that's common. For such a kit, I would pause the boil before adding the extract. For one thing, you don't want liquid extract settling to the bottom and scorching.

Regarding BrewnWKopperKat's suggestion, I don't see why there would be any problem with adding the extract before the boil. Just make sure it's dissolved (i.e., not settled on the bottom) before cranking up the heat.

A little extra time in hot water shouldn't affect the extract in any significant way. It's not even boiling yet, so I don't even think it would affect the color.

That's a pretty golden little nugget of info there. That right there would potentially prevent the boil overs. It's always when adding the DME that I see the wort start to rise like a loony. I'd love to save myself that worry. The scorch on the bottom isn't an issue if you keep stirring all the time you add the LME. It doesn't get to sit then, just stays in motion. The DME is what gives me the worry about boil over. Think Begby from Trainspotting. That is a boil over. He is DME being added to boiling wort It's gonna go. (btw, that book/film. One of the best ever)
Ok, gonna add the DME and LME in before boil starts on sunday and see how it works out. If i can avoid that rising boil then that makes my brew day 100% less stressful That's the only part that stresses me out, as the stove isn't cheap and spilling wort all over it and possibly wrecking the stove electrics, etc, makes me worry.

 

[mac_1103]

There was a recent thread about ways to dissolve DME. Several older ones too.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Wait. What? You can do this and it's ok?

It is.

[...] it never mentions to add before the boil is rolling.

With regard to boil intensity, see Boiling Wort Visual Reference (link). I limit the boil to levels 1 or 2.

Ok, gonna add the DME and LME in before boil starts on sunday and see how it works out. If i can avoid that rising boil then that makes my brew day 100% less stressful

You will want to include all the water 'up front' as well.

The two gold choices when brewing with DME/LME are

1. all the DME/LME & water in the kettle at the start of the boil, or
2. half the DME/LME & half the water at the start with the rest added around the end of the boil

The 'start of boil' water volume should also include water that is boiled off during the boil.

My guess is that a lot of bad 5 gal batches are

• all the LME up front (and the LME is stale)
• start with 2.5 gal of water (and not account for boil off)
• a hard rolling 60 min boil

which leaves around 1.5 gal at the end of the boil. Assuming an recipe for an OG 60 IPA, the start of the boil SG is 120. And at the end of the boil (assuming 1.5 gal), it's roughly SG 200. Topping off with 3.5 gal will back to 5 gal and OG 60, but it won't undo any of the reactions of boiling a highly concentrated wort.

A little extra time in hot water shouldn't affect the extract in any significant way. It's not even boiling yet, so I don't even think it would affect the color.

As best I can tell, the color impact for a 60 min boil is around 1 SRM. The basis for this observation comes from a two part Basic Brewing Radio episode in Aug/Nov 2005. If the lightest possible color is desirable, avoid LME, shorten the boil, and add half the DME late in the boil. Depending on the style of beer, rice solids and brewers crystals have essentially zero color so they could be used in place of some of the DME (up to 25% ?) Clarity (or lack of clarity) will have an impact on perceived color.

 

[Skeeter686]

With regard to boil intensity, see Boiling Wort Visual Reference (link). I limit the boil to levels 1 or 2.

This is awesome! An actual point of reference for describing boil intensity... I'm used to discussions along the lines of, "It was boiling, like, really good, you know?"

 

[sixstring]

It is.

With regard to boil intensity, see Boiling Wort Visual Reference (link). I limit the boil to levels 1 or 2.

That's pretty useful. It doesn't look like those boil levels aside from the violent ones are even close to 212F. I watch my water temp all the time, and I try to make a rolling boil (closer to a violent at this point according to that video you posted, which is really cool) by hitting about 209F. Maybe I should reduce my "boiling" temp down. That would solve quite a lot actually.

You will want to include all the water 'up front' as well.

That's where I may run into a problem. My kettle doesn't hold 5 gallons, well it does but it'll be right at the brim then

My guess is that a lot of bad 5 gal batches are

• all the LME up front (and the LME is stale)
• start with 2.5 gal of water (and not account for boil off)
• a hard rolling 60 min boil

My brewers best kits always just say to add all the extract up front when it's boiling and only fill the kettle to 2.5 gallons and then top off with water when it's in the fermenter. And then start adding the hops at specific intervals.

Here's an excerpt:

4. START BOIL
Bring your wort to a gentle, rolling boil. Add all of the included LME
and DME to the boiling wort. Continuously stir the extract into the wort
as it returns to a gentle, rolling boil

Thanks for all the followup, Brewn. More notes made for next brew day

 

[sixstring]

There was a recent thread about ways to dissolve DME. Several older ones too.

That's a great read. Thank you, mac.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

With regard to boil intensity, see Boiling Wort Visual Reference (link). I limit the boil to levels 1 or 2.

That's pretty useful. It doesn't look like those boil levels aside from the violent ones are even close to 212F. I watch my water temp all the time, and I try to make a rolling boil (closer to a violent at this point according to that video you posted, which is really cool) by hitting about 209F. Maybe I should reduce my "boiling" temp down. That would solve quite a lot actually.

Water boils at 212F at sea level. At my altitude, it boils at 210F. At levels 1 & 2, the wort is boiling at 210F.

---

My brewers best kits always just say to add all the extract up front when it's boiling and only fill the kettle to 2.5 gallons and then top off with water when it's in the fermenter

If you look at the books by Palmer (as well as Chris Colby and others) that talk about brewing with DME, they recommend full volume boils with a kettle that supports it.

If the kettle or heat source is too small for a full volume boil, then the "wort a / wort b" technique is recommended. And, for 5 gal batches, they include additional water (starting with ~ 3 gal for "wort a") to account for the water boiled off (~ 0.5 gal, but it varies based on equipment) to end up with 2.5 gal at the end of the boil.

In How to Brew, 4e, chapter 9, 3rd paragraph, there is a sentence that mentions problems that can occur with highly concentrated boils.

If you are getting good results using the kit instructions, continue to use it. OTOH, if you think the beer could be better, either a bigger kettle (full volume boil) or the "wort a / wort b" approach appear to be easy paths forward.

 

[sixstring]

I really need to pick that book up off my table and read it I think. It's sitting here looking at me now, asking why I've not read anything in it.

I do get great results from the kit instructions. But I am planning to give the wort a/b method a shot soon to see how it turns out.

 

[Willy]

When I used DME/LME back in the day - I always brought the kettle to a slow boil ... Finish most of the boil time before adding ME. Say 10 min left in the boil... shut off the heat. Carefully and slowly add the malt extract and mix well. Then ... Turn on heat and reboil some more. not sure if that is the preferred method today but that was the "instructions" at the time.

Lots of great advice here. I think I have an older edition of Palmer classic with lots of phallicies. Haha. Even the experts are just human.

 

[ncbrewer]

I do get great results from the kit instructions. But I am planning to give the wort a/b method a shot soon to see how it turns out.

I agree 100% - continuous improvement.