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First brew - didn't work out

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Another good online tutorial is Chris Holst's Homebrewing for the Absolute Beginner on eGullet.org. Chris does a really nice job of working up from extract to extract with steeped grains to partial mashes, explaining everything along the way. He does recommend 1L PET bottles and 2gallon batches to start with, which is not smile upon here but makes a lot of sense for those who are unsure and just want to test the waters. The recipes scale up easily.

Chad
 
OK...so, heres my new plan:

buy this:
Brewing Basics Equipment Kit (midwest supplies)
and this:
Bottles 12 oz. Amber (per 24) (midwest supplies)

Now, I already have enough unhopped malt extract, hops, dextrose, and such to make about a four gallon batch.

Heres my new question:

After reading through the How to Brew site
(particularly right here:
http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1-1.html)

I realized he never put in any form of dextrose, is this because his malt contained enough sugar?

With what I have, how would I know if my malt contains enough sugar or if I needed to add dextrose, and how much to add?

next question

does the ingrediant kit located here seem too complicated for my skill level? It contains things that I'm not sure how will mix in and don't know exactly what they are. Should i just stick with the recipe I was trying to make originally? It seems more simple. Just unhopped malt extract syrup, dextrose, hops, and yeast.

Also, mike's (i think his name was mike) video didn't include a section on adding dextrose either. Is this something I would add before I'd start the hour long boil of my wort or would I put it in with the flavoring/aroma hops?

Thanks, you guys have been a big help so far.


By the way, what do y'all think of this: http://www.totse.com/en/drugs/booze_the_legal_drug/beer.html
 
Well, I would absolutely avoid any recipe or technique that has you had sugar to it (except for bottling, to prime). Sugar is not an ingredient in good beer. Oh, there are exceptions, like making a higher gravity "big" beer but none of that applies right now.

I didn't get through the entire process in that link you showed, so maybe it gets better. When I see "sugar" and "bleach" in the instructions, I have a hard time getting through the whole process.

John Palmer doesn't have the step where you add sugar in his book because you shouldn't. Malt extract and/or grains have a sugar called maltose in it and that's what you want to use.

Even though a recipe that uses dextrose seems simple, it isn't any simpler than leaving it out. A good basic recipe might look like this (adapted from howtobrew.com):

Cincinnati Pale Ale
Ingredients for a 5 gallon batch

3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped
2 lb. Amber dry malt extract
1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget
1 oz. of 5% Cascade
dried ale yeast

You'd bring about 2 gallons of water to a boil, take it off the heat and add the malt extract. Stir well, and bring back to a boil. Add the nugget hops and set the timer for 60 minutes. When you have 10 minutes left on the timer, add the cascade hops. When the timer dings, put it in the sink in an ice bath to cool. When under 90 degrees, put in the fermenter and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. When it's 70 degrees, sprinkle on the yeast and put on the lid and airlock. Ferment for 2 weeks and then bottle.

Now, that recipe you have picked out is fine for a beginner. It seems to be a braggot, though, not really beer. That's fine if it's what you want, but honey doesn't really add sweetness to a beer because it ferments. I would say to think of a beer style you like and then pick a recipe or kit in that style. If you like Blue Moon, for example, you can make a beer similar to that. If you like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, you can make a beer similar to that. It's all pretty easy, just following a recipe.
 
Just a comment along the lines of saving some money - I have never bought new bottles. I just go to my local beverage store and ask for empties that have been returned. I can get as many cases for 5 cents a bottle as I can carry. Just make sure they are re-usable, not screwtop. Sam Adams or Saranac work best in our area. make sure you clean them well and sterilize them, but once you have a stockpile, you can keep re-using them. My friends know to bring back the empties (hoping for refills!)
 
Well, I am a little surprised at some of the responses to this thread, but I guess it's understandable.

It's damn-sure a good thing there is a resource like this for new brewers.

Luckily when I started--after a long time hearing about sugar and bleach and pet bottles and on and on--I was lucky enough to get turned on to the Papazian books and the Palmer online tutorial.


I must say that you guys have been an unbelievable resource for me as I have become a more adept, but still learning, brewer.
 
Since you are buying from Midwest Supply, I would suggest reading the .PDF file on the bottom of the ingredient kit web page.

Also, when you order from them, select the check box indicating that you want them to ship you the free DVD. I found both of those resources very informative and neither one of them will cost you an extra dime on top of what you are already ordering.

Also, the .PDF is usually printed out and shipped with your ingredient kit and is usually customized to the exact kit you ordered, so that will answer any questions you have about when to add certain ingredients.
 
the_bird said:
No!!! It's "The Turd Bag!"

(who actually seems like a nice enough guy and all, but whose methods leave a bit to be desired.... and he's starting with a can of hopped extract, so the procedures are different from what you should have been following).


Oh Great! I am now stupider for watching that video, thanks a lot. At least he says several times to check with your LHBS to find out the better way....

Will95GT : Don't worry though these forums have some very experienced brewers and a vast store of great information. You will do fine, good luck.
 
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