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First all grain complete!

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theowlman16

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Just finished my first attempt at all grain. I did a recipe similar to Biermunchers Centennialblonde. I used Citra and Cascade due to the shop being out of Centennial. Everything went very well, I did a lot of planning. The only issue I had was I double grinded the grains hoping to help efficiency, but some of the tiny pieces made their way past the false bottom of the mash tun. I pitched at 63 degrees, maybe a bit on the cool side? Now...to secondary or not???
 
Secondary is completely unnecessary, but completely acceptable. Brewer's choice. (I personally think it's a waste of time/not worth the effort/too likely to oxidize or contaminate.)

Couple grain husks won't have any effect. What is the yeast you're using? To me, 63* is perfect, but it is certainly dependent on yeast strain.
 
I vote no secondary!

you have to clean and sanitize another vessel to prep
you have to clean and sanitize once its done
increased risk of infection
unavoidable slight oxidation unless closed transfers

Not that this stuff really makes a difference, but its simpler and cleaner to only do a primary. Use gelatin before bottling or kegging/in keg if your aiming for clearer beer faster, but it will clear up either way in time.
 
I second that a few husks aren't that big of a deal (get too much you wills tart getting some astringency but I am sure you need a bit to get to that point). However, did you recirculate any of your first runnings? Your first couple quarts should be drawn off and returned to the top of your mash bed (gently). You should do keep drawing off until nothing solid wants to come through. That way, your grain bed acts as a filter for you. Then once it has cleared a bit, start collecting in your kettle. If you ever switch to a HERMs or RIMs set up, this becomes unnecessary since you are doing that anyway whenever you are recirculating.
 
I agree. I only do secondary if I'm doing a specialty beer where I need to add ingredients for flavor like a raspberry stout or a habanero beer, etc.

I don't really see it has a pain though to have to sanitize a second. If you can do it properly for the first you should be able to repeat the step without contaminating it and it doesn't take that long anyhow.

I have a homemade false bottom and while it works perfectly most of the time I can get a few grains here and there sometimes that find their way in. I use a filter at the end of my hose when transferring for the boil and that gets everything out. Basically just two brew bags tied to the end of the tube.

And the temperature really depends on the strain of the yeast you're using. Most yeast have the temperature range marked on the packaging.
 
Nottingham yeast. I think I'm in range, just not used to temps that low. Starting to bubble 12 hours after pitchin.
 
That's perfect or even a little high for Notty. Another no vote for secondary.
 
Congrats on the first all grain batch. I am doing my first all grain brewing next month. Will you elaborate on your equipment choices, methods, efficiency, and gravity readings for us about to jump in the all grain pool? Did you mill your own grain or ask the LHBS to do it?
 
"The recommended fermentation temperature range of this strain is 14° to 21°C (57° to 70°F) with good tolerance to low fermentation temperatures (12°C/54°F) that allow this strain to be used in lager-style beer."

Secondary is optional IMHO.
 
Congrats on the first all grain batch. I am doing my first all grain brewing next month. Will you elaborate on your equipment choices, methods, efficiency, and gravity readings for us about to jump in the all grain pool? Did you mill your own grain or ask the LHBS to do it?

I was going to ask why wait until next month until I looked at the calender and saw that there were only 4 day left of this month.:D

I'd suggest you do a little reading about BIAB as with that method it becomes about as easy as steeping specialty grains and very cheap. I would recommend you have your own mill if you want to achieve consistency as LHBS mills get adjusted or worn to the point that your efficiency can be all over the place.:mad:

You may read about poor efficiency with BIAB. My first batch was 80% brewhouse and I've never been that low again. Efficiency is all controlled by the milling of the grain. If the grain is milled poorly, efficiency suffers.:mug:
 
I was going to ask why wait until next month until I looked at the calender and saw that there were only 4 day left of this month.:D

I'd suggest you do a little reading about BIAB as with that method it becomes about as easy as steeping specialty grains and very cheap. I would recommend you have your own mill if you want to achieve consistency as LHBS mills get adjusted or worn to the point that your efficiency can be all over the place.:mad:...

I have read up about it some. I'm the type of guy thar usually dips my toe in to feel the temperature of the water (2 extract with steeping and 1 mini-mash brew, yeast starters for all 3, built a lot of the stuff I needed and bought some second hand), then runs over to the 10 meter platform and jumps in. Luckily, I rarely belly flop.

I am working on my MLT and HLT today in fact. Trying to plan and take as many pre-notes as possible to prepare for the inevitable mishap on brew day.
 
I have read up about it some. I'm the type of guy thar usually dips my toe in to feel the temperature of the water (2 extract with steeping and 1 mini-mash brew, yeast starters for all 3, built a lot of the stuff I needed and bought some second hand), then runs over to the 10 meter platform and jumps in. Luckily, I rarely belly flop.

I am working on my MLT and HLT today in fact. Trying to plan and take as many pre-notes as possible to prepare for the inevitable mishap on brew day.

You might want to try a bag in cooler mash tun. No stuck sparges, just lift the bag to create more filter area.
 
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