first all grain brew

[manfield8]

This weekend I will be doing my first all grain brew, been doing extracts for last 6 or so years. any tips the season veterans can offer? FYI I have a cooler set up from Keg connections with 10 gallon brew kettle & wort chiller, going to try a Blue moon clone

 

[RM-MN]

My suggestion is to try something that doesn't include wheat or rye. Their kernels are smaller and harder so they often don't get properly crushed leading to poor mash efficiency. They also don't have a husk which can lead to a stuck mash or sparge. If you insist on a Blue Moon clone, use rice hulls (cheap) to replace the missing hulls on the wheat and don't be too disappointed if you have a low OG reading.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

My suggestion would be skip the cooler and do BIAB with everything in the BK.

Theres really nothing to it...Crush real fine. Steep grains in bag at around 152 pull bag, boil chill done.

Get a mill if you plan on doing all grain. You can control the crush and buy base malts in bulk and save money.

Depending on were you live (outdoor temps) you could even kill the power/propane while you mash so you dont need to worry about over heating the mash....kill power, walk away for an hour while drinking beer, come back hoist the bag and start the boil....that simple

 

[kh54s10]

My suggestion would be skip the cooler and do BIAB with everything in the BK.

Theres really nothing to it...Crush real fine. Steep grains in bag at around 152 pull bag, boil chill done.

Get a mill if you plan on doing all grain. You can control the crush and buy base malts in bulk and save money.

Depending on were you live (outdoor temps) you could even kill the power/propane while you mash so you dont need to worry about over heating the mash....kill power, walk away for an hour while drinking beer, come back hoist the bag and start the boil....that simple

Works if you set up for BIAB. I am not and detest brewing BIAB. Wet, hot, sticky, messy and does not save much time......

 

[manfield8]

My suggestion would be skip the cooler and do BIAB with everything in the BK.

Theres really nothing to it...Crush real fine. Steep grains in bag at around 152 pull bag, boil chill done.

Get a mill if you plan on doing all grain. You can control the crush and buy base malts in bulk and save money.

Depending on were you live (outdoor temps) you could even kill the power/propane while you mash so you dont need to worry about over heating the mash....kill power, walk away for an hour while drinking beer, come back hoist the bag and start the boil....that simple

Well since I already invested in a cooler system don't think I will be skipping that. Maybe in the future.

 

[OpenSights]

I’m lucky to have a club and friends to teach me.

I started out on my own on extracts. I’ve a bit more than you, but not by much. I just did my first solo AG, and if you’ve ever steeped grains in your kettle, no different than the tun, just clean your tun while you wait for the boil, make sure your sparge warter is right.... I over did mine.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Works if you set up for BIAB. I am not and detest brewing BIAB. Wet, hot, sticky, messy and does not save much time......

Come on now....lets be open....there is zero " hot sticky Mess"

That is something derived from people that refuse to except that BIAB actually makes the exact same beer without the equipment and bought a ton of stuff for lots of money for no reason....this is fact....cheers

 

[Homergah]

Come on guys. The OP stated the equipment he has, the brew he is planning, and is just looking for tips on THAT scenario. Great goobers jeebus! The rice hulls are a good idea. And....

RELAX.
DON'T WORRY.
HAVE
A
HOMEBREW.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Well since I already invested in a cooler system don't think I will be skipping that. Maybe in the future.

Your not loosing anything just because you bought a cooler, doesnt mean you need to use it...save it for the beach

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Come on guys. The OP stated the equipment he has, the brew he is planning, and is just looking for tips on THAT scenario. Great goobers jeebus! The rice hulls are a good idea. And....

Likin your positivity...cheers to that

 

[Kickass]

I watched a lot of youtube videos about mashing a sparging. Some good, some bad. Inherently, you can kind of determine the bad ones pretty quickly.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Come on now....lets be open....there is zero " hot sticky Mess"

Agree...I cut an hour off my fly sparge brew day and I reduced the amount of hot sticky mess I had to deal with during sparging. I don't have anything against a multi-vessel setup (they are especially great for 10+ gal batches) and some electric systems look great for brewing indoors. I still run into people that, when I describe my setup, talk about how they started with a single pot and "upgraded"...I fly sparged for 20 years and I "upgraded" to a single pot.

Tips to the OP: attempt to get accurate measurements of your volume and gravity 1) pre-boil 2) post-boil and 3) into the fermenter. The biggest difference with all-grain recipes is that there is not a simple formula about x lbs of extract into y gallons of liquid = 1.050 OG. It will take a few batches to tune in your process and understand your efficiency. The different measurements will help you identify areas to focus. Once you get a ballpark efficiency for your process and equipment you can tune grain amounts to hit your target gravity.

 

[kh54s10]

Come on now....lets be open....there is zero " hot sticky Mess"

That is something derived from people that refuse to except that BIAB actually makes the exact same beer without the equipment and bought a ton of stuff for lots of money for no reason....this is fact....cheers

Zero hot, sticky, mess = If and only if you have set up properly for BIAB. I have a 5 gallon pot for on the stove. It will hold only enough for a low gravity brew. I have no hoist so it is a hot sticky mess. Yes, you can make the same beer. But you have to plan ahead and make sure you have the right set up. I can't properly drain 12+ pounds of hot, sticky, messy grain.

 

[kh54s10]

c

Agree...I cut an hour off my fly sparge brew day and I reduced the amount of hot sticky mess I had to deal with during sparging. I don't have anything against a multi-vessel setup (they are especially great for 10+ gal batches) and some electric systems look great for brewing indoors. I still run into people that, when I describe my setup, talk about how they started with a single pot and "upgraded"...I fly sparged for 20 years and I "upgraded" to a single pot.

cTips to the OP: attempt to get accurate measurements of your volume and gravity 1) pre-boil 2) post-boil and 3) into the fermenter. The biggest difference with all-grain recipes is that there is not a simple formula about x lbs of extract into y gallons of liquid = 1.050 OG. It will take a few batches to tune in your process and understand your efficiency. The different measurements will help you identify areas to focus. Once you get a ballpark efficiency for your process and equipment you can tune grain amounts to hit your target gravity.

Comparing BIAB to fly sparge is disingenuous. It is much closer to batch sparging. Why in the world would be sparging with a fly sparge be at all a sticky mess? Every thing is contained...

I might "upgrade to a single pot'' someday, but it will require a good bag or mesh container, and will require some sort of sparging.

IMO, BIAB requires much more thought than a pot and a bag......

 

[Beardless]

+1 on figuring out/tuning your grains and volumes to get a post boil gravity and volume where you want. Take into consideration your boil losses, false bottom loss, boil kettle sediment and volumes of tubing (maybe small) etc. I ran a “fake” brew the day before to figure out some of my losses and got me in the ballpark. Just filled things up and moved water around.

Sparge slowly with the grain bill you’re using, maybe start with a higher qt/lb ratio for strike water. A batch or no-sparge method is best for beginning all grain, lots of info out there on those. Make sure you preheat your cooler (while heating your strike water dump some boiling water in the cooler and close it up, helps save time so your strike water isn’t too low and you have the “how am I going to heat this back up” moment, dump it before mash in). Use some online calculators to help figure out strike water temps and volumes, if you know some of the inputs add em in, otherwise the generic numbers work and you can fine tune.

Most importantly as noted above- relax, don’t worry, have a homebrew!

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Zero hot, sticky, mess = If and only if you have set up properly for BIAB. I have a 5 gallon pot for on the stove. It will hold only enough for a low gravity brew. I have no hoist so it is a hot sticky mess. Yes, you can make the same beer. But you have to plan ahead and make sure you have the right set up. I can't properly drain 12+ pounds of hot, sticky, messy grain.

I brew 25# in my kitchen with hardwood floors....believe me...if it was a hot sticky mess the boss would put a quick end to it.....I cant imagine BIAB without a hoist.....Not being disrespectful at all but why dont you have a hoist?.. It so easy to do

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Comparing BIAB to fly sparge is disingenuous. It is much closer to batch sparging. Why in the world would be sparging with a fly sparge be at all a sticky mess? Every thing is contained...

You have to deal with the limitation of a 5 gal kettle and they OP has a 10 gal kettle. A 10 gal kettle will support full volume mash of a 1.090 beer and much more with a dunk or pour over sparge. My GF does stove top small batch BIAB. It is a very easy process that can make great beer. It is not the ONLY process out there, but I don't run around making fun of people that enjoy their 3 tier system, or RIMS system, or a Grainfather system, etc.

With BIAB I just lift up the bag and let it drain. I don't have to deal with vorlaufing, or emptying out and cleaning a lauter tun, etc. I also had to transfer from my mash vessel to my lauter tun...but I know most people mash have a combined vessel. I was looking to upgrade to a 3 tier system until I found BIAB I am glad I did not go the cooler route.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

This weekend I will be doing my first all grain brew, been doing extracts for last 6 or so years. any tips the season veterans can offer? FYI I have a cooler set up from Keg connections with 10 gallon brew kettle & wort chiller, going to try a Blue moon clone

Congratulations! It's really fun getting in to AG.
As mentioned already, maybe leave out wheat for the first few brews (and rice, oats, rye and corn). You could try replacing the wheat with pale malt - it won't be the same, but should still be really good.
A cooler set-up is a great option - it's really simple and consistently makes great beer. IMO, it's the simplest system to start with.
Everyone hates having to deal with water to start out, but it's quite important to have water that's at least passable for what you're brewing. You don't need to get too technical, but your mash pH will need to be somewhere in the range. For a blue moon, you'll need some acid, even with RO water. Are you using RO, or tap water? Do you have a water report?

 

[kh54s10]

Come on now....lets be open....there is zero " hot sticky Mess"

That is something derived from people that refuse to except that BIAB actually makes the exact same beer without the equipment and bought a ton of stuff for lots of money for no reason....this is fact....cheers

I brew 25# in my kitchen with hardwood floors....believe me...if it was a hot sticky mess the boss would put a quick end to it.....I cant imagine BIAB without a hoist.....Not being disrespectful at all but why dont you have a hoist?.. It so easy to do

I started brewing on a 3 tier gravity system before BIAB became popular. I had a glass cooktop and would not trust doing bigger than 3 gallon BIAB on it. Since I already had my 3 vessel system I see no need to rig a hoist. I am not sure my aluminum porch ceiling would support it anyway. And don't want to build a frame.

Since I don't have the hoist, AGAIN it is a hot, wet, sticky mess.

I have done BIAB and the only advantage I see is that you only use one pot.

Face it.... There are some of us who prefer brewing with more than one pot.

 

[kh54s10]

Congratulations! It's really fun getting in to AG.
As mentioned already, maybe leave out wheat for the first few brews (and rice, oats, rye and corn). You could try replacing the wheat with pale malt - it won't be the same, but should still be really good.
A cooler set-up is a great option - it's really simple and consistently makes great beer. IMO, it's the simplest system to start with.
Everyone hates having to deal with water to start out, but it's quite important to have water that's at least passable for what you're brewing. You don't need to get too technical, but your mash pH will need to be somewhere in the range. For a blue moon, you'll need some acid, even with RO water. Are you using RO, or tap water? Do you have a water report?

He is just starting all grain. I wouldn't complicate things with water. I have been brewing for 7 3/4 years and don't own a pH meter. I have never used acid and I would rate most of my beers favorably with moderately priced commercial craft beers.
Water treatment is in the plan. Just haven't gotten everything together yet. A move and another move in the near future has that on hold.

 

[manfield8]

Congratulations! It's really fun getting in to AG.
As mentioned already, maybe leave out wheat for the first few brews (and rice, oats, rye and corn). You could try replacing the wheat with pale malt - it won't be the same, but should still be really good.
A cooler set-up is a great option - it's really simple and consistently makes great beer. IMO, it's the simplest system to start with.
Everyone hates having to deal with water to start out, but it's quite important to have water that's at least passable for what you're brewing. You don't need to get too technical, but your mash pH will need to be somewhere in the range. For a blue moon, you'll need some acid, even with RO water. Are you using RO, or tap water? Do you have a water report?

No to the RO water, or at least I think it's a no just went and got spring water from wally world. I will have to take a look at it when I get home tonight.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

He is just starting all grain. I wouldn't complicate things with water. I have been brewing for 7 3/4 years and don't own a pH meter. I have never used acid and I would rate most of my beers favorably with moderately priced commercial craft beers.
Water treatment is in the plan. Just haven't gotten everything together yet. A move and another move in the near future has that on hold.

There's a good chance you have soft water, in which case you'd still make quite good beer without modifying your water. If the OP has water high in (bi)carbonates, and tries to brew a blue moon clone, they could end up with poor conversion, harsh bitterness and astringency.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

No to the RO water, or at least I think it's a no just went and got spring water from wally world. I will have to take a look at it when I get home tonight.

Most spring water is OK to use, but you need to check the label. It should list the Calcium, chloride, sulfate and bicarbonate levels. Find them and post on here to see if the water's ok to use.

 

[ApolloSimcoe]

My tips are strictly beginner tips. I would mash in at a ratio of 1.1 qts per gallon. Hold back additional hot/boiling water. If you come in to low on the mash temp you can use some to raise the mash. Likewise i would keep some cold brewing water on the side to lower mash temp if needed.
Make sure you have a good crush on your grains.
Heat up strike water first, then heat up sparge water during the mash.
As you are nearing your preboil volumes monitor the gravity draining from your mash. Once you reach 1.008-1.012 stop sparging.

 

[kh54s10]

Heat up strike water first, then heat up sparge water during the mash.
As you are nearing your preboil volumes monitor the gravity draining from your
mash. Once you reach 1.008-1.012 stop sparging.

This is assuming a fly sparge.. If doing a batch sparge these numbers do not apply!

 

[kh54s10]

There's a good chance you have soft water, in which case you'd still make quite good beer without modifying your water. If the OP has water high in (bi)carbonates, and tries to brew a blue moon clone, they could end up with poor conversion, harsh bitterness and astringency.

When I lived in Rhode Island my water was considered among the best for drinking in the Northeast. Since moving to Florida I am not sure. I suspect the water has a lot more hardness due to the limestone that is in the ground..

Either way, I have not done much to analyze the water or to correct anything. My beers have been very good in both states. I am sure that with additions they could be made better, but that is something that I will do at some point. It is not a high priority at the moment.

 

[Kirkwooder]

First off, relax. It's just beer. You have made beer before. AG is just making beer at a higher level.

Don't worry too much about water chemistry. I have brewed nearly 100 batches and have never worried too much about water chemistry. Does it make a difference? Well, yes, and a sizable one, however, you have made beer before and all you are adding to this brew day is the sugar extracting process. It may be a very scientific process, but it's not rocket science. House wives, monks, and hillbillies like me have been doing this since the beginning of time. Some very good beer was made before anyone even knew what yeast was. While water chemistry makes a huge difference in the final product, most water can make good beer. Give it a go, and correct any issues you are intolerant of in the next brew.

Know that a Blue Moon clone does not have a lot of complexity to hide off flavors. Keep that in mind. Pay close attention to your chill and and even closer attention to your sanitation and fermentation temps.

Heat more water than you think you will need. It never fails when doughing in, you find yourself a few degrees low every time you don't have any more hot water to add. Like ApolloSimcoe mentioned, have some cold brewing water handy also. Too high a mash temp is as bad or worse than too low.

Have a home brew and boil....Hard! Let it roll long and hard. You can always ad water if you lose too much. Leave the crap in the pot when you rack off your wort. Hop debris and hot break have no place in your fermentor, and with a beer as light as Blue Moon don't chance the off flavors or added haze they may bring along.

Above all, enjoy yourself, after all you are making beer. What is cooler than that?

 

[ApolloSimcoe]

This is assuming a fly sparge.. If doing a batch sparge these numbers do not apply!

Based on the system the OP bought it sounds like they will fly sparging. I guess we need more info from the OP for clarification

 

[ApolloSimcoe]

What's the main difference between extract brewing and all grain? With extract you are given a measured amount of sugars to make your beer. With all grain you as brewer need to extract those sugars. And as a beginner AG brewer that should be your focus. You have a new AG system and are raring to go, but have yet to use. After you have successes with your system and failures, and you will have both, you will start to work out the kinks and learn your system and efficiency. Once you feel you have that nailed then you can start adding other layers, like water chem, pH, step mashes etc.
I think that when people have been brewing for extended periods they tend to forget that you have to learn to crawl first. There will be responses like "I just jumped right in to AG, water Chem, pH etc and my beer is great". I've never had those beers so who knows how they are. I believe that starting with a strong foundation and building on that is the best way to go. Pay attention to details, this is what really separates great beer from average beer. You can't effectively focus on 100 new details on your first go. Focus on the important ones and build on that. Your beer will thank you.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

I think that when people have been brewing for extended periods they tend to forget that you have to learn to crawl first.

This is obviously a shot at my suggestion that the OP consider their water (and that's quite OK). I'm not suggesting they get right in to water chemistry - I know it's daunting and many experienced brewer don't bother too much with it. But, I've lost count of the number of new brewers who've had major issues with pea soup looking beer, beer that tastes like bandaids or overly biting or astringent, or have efficiency below 50%, most of which give up fairly quickly (not to be seen on HBT again). The issue most of the time is water. The advice given by brewers who (by chance) have had luck with their water without having to modify it is "I've brewed n batches and never worried about water, therefore you don't need to either". It's poor advice. It's like saying my Grandmother lived to 95 smoking a pack of cigarettes a day, so cigarettes won't hurt you. My first few batches were like pea-soup. Nobody would touch them. It turned out I have close to zero Calcium in my water - simply adding a small amount of Calcium chloride to my water made a huge difference. I wish I'd known from the start. What advice do I give to new brewers? Either:
1. Tell an experienced brewer where your water comes from (city/town supply). Most of the time, there is enough information on the internet to get a rough idea of the water and some basic advice can be given (eg. add 2 tsp of Calcium chloride to the mash, or use 3% acid malt in the grist). It doesn't need to be complicated.
2. Use RO water with 1/2 tsp of Calcium chloride added per gallon.

The OP has said they have spring water to use. That ranges from almost RO to water with insanely high alkalinity. A quick look at the bottle to see Calcium and Bicarbonate levels will mean water becomes a known quantity, and helps a new brewers worrying mind be at ease.

There's no need early on to worry about every ion level, alkalinity, measuring pH etc, but a basic water focus can help many new brewers get good beer early on.