FINALLY ordered an RO setup! What should I know?

[NewJersey]

I ordered a buckeye hydro due to many good recommendations on here. 75gpd.
I also sprung for the asov kit, manual flush, and dual tds inline meter.
What should I know about using this?
I've been modifying my tap water based off a ward labs report for the last couple years.
What are some good calculators to use for building for various styles from RO?
This is the final piece I've been meaning to control in my process, excited to get going! Thanks all

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I have been using Bru'n Water since before I put my RO system together, and really all I had to do was change my base water from my well water numbers to the ridiculously low RO numbers and everything just followed.

About all I can recommend is to make sure you pull some water through the system every week. Otherwise, they just work, and sure make dealing with salts/acids easier than my well water

Cheers!

 

[NewJersey]

What values do you put in for RO water?
All zeroes?

 

[mabrungard]

RO water is likely to have ionic content, but low. There is a typical RO profile in Bru'n Water that is in the ball park, but it will vary depending where your raw water quality is.

If you want to understand some of what you should know with RO and the machines, I suggest reading some of the articles here: Bru'n Water Articles. There is a comprehensive set of articles on the Care, Operation, and Maintenance of RO machines in Zymurgy written a couple years ago. AHA members have access to those Zymurgy articles.

 

[soccerdad]

While you have Matin's ear, find out what you can about storage (pressure) tanks with stored RO water. 75 gpd is great, but is you store less than 3 it will take some time to prep 8 gallons for a brew day

 

[day_trippr]

It's probably stupid of me to even do so but I ratioed my Ward's Lab test against my RO water TDS (300 vs 10) and adjusted the mineral content accordingly. Most entries are "1", one is a "2", so, yeah, why bother?

I think with just a bit of planning the OP will do just fine. I have a 100gpd system that literally pumps out a bit over 4 gallons per hour, and with my typical brew day needs between 19 and 20 gallons for my 10 gallon batches (on a 3v2p herms rig - so there's a minimum HLT volume of 10 gallons to consider) I just need to pull the trigger ~5 hours before firing up the burners...

Cheers!

 

[Punx Clever]

Oh, man, talk about a can of worms!

I have an RO system now, since my domestic supply comes from a well and has enough iron in it to rust fiberglass... It has a coarse particulate filter, an activated carbon filter (when I replace it, it will be a fine particulate since my well water doesn't have chlorine/chloramine compounds), and two RO membranes. I get about 4-5 gph production at an input pressure of 30-40 psi. The system is rated at 100 gpd.

First off, I borrowed my buddy's LaMotte water test kit to check both my well water and water produced by my RO system and use the values from that in Bru'n Water. The numbers from the RO sample are very low, but slightly different than the default RO profile in Bru'n Water.

Second off, I added an inline TDS meter to my RO setup. I let the RO run until I get below 15 ppm on the TDS, then start collecting brewing water.

I have had the setup for over a year now with no noticeable (objective - TDS readings, subjective - taste, aroma) changes in filter performance. It's probably about time to think about replacing filters/membranes on a time-basis though.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Oh, man, talk about a can of worms!

I have an RO system now, since my domestic supply comes from a well and has enough iron in it to rust fiberglass... It has a coarse particulate filter, an activated carbon filter (when I replace it, it will be a fine particulate since my well water doesn't have chlorine/chloramine compounds), and two RO membranes. I get about 4-5 gph production at an input pressure of 30-40 psi. The system is rated at 100 gpd.

Two membranes... and your system is rated at 100 gpd? Hmmm.
Are your membranes plumbed in series or in parallel?

Russ

 

[Punx Clever]

Two membranes... and your system is rated at 100 gpd? Hmmm.
Are your membranes plumbed in series or in parallel?

Russ

Your right, I misremembered. Apparently it's a 300gpd unit. Stealth-RO300™ System with Upgraded KDF85/Catalytic Carbon Filter

I suppose my 30-40psi well water is the cause of the ~100gpd actual production rate.

• Produces up to 300 GPD (gallons per day)/12 GPH (gallons per hour) of ultra-pure, low PPM water (Flow rates of RO systems are based on source water @ 65 psi/77°/500 ppm)

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

You have a double whammy of low pressure AND cold temperatures.

Your membranes are plumbed in parallel.

That vendor uses special magic and often configures systems with magically high recovery (low waste water flow).
Can't tell you how many of their systems we've fixed for customers.
If you are feeding that system hard water, I'd install a different flow restrictor so you don't prematurely scale the membranes.

The carbon they use - they recommend changing it very frequently - you'd be better off with two carbon prefilters. A single 10" carbon filter for a 300 gpd RO is not enough.

Russ

 

[Punx Clever]

You have a double whammy of low pressure AND cold temperatures.

Yup. Not that big of a deal though, I'm OK with slower production rate... I just collect water the day before brewing.

Your membranes are plumbed in parallel.

Concur.

That vendor uses special magic and often configures systems with magically high recovery (low waste water flow).
Can't tell you how many of their systems we've fixed for customers.

This falls in the category of "don't look a gift horse in the mouth". Christmas present form the old man.

If you are feeding that system hard water, I'd install a different flow restrictor so you don't prematurely scale the membranes.

It's been a while since I set everything up, but if I remember right I actually adjusted the supplied restrictors to provide a much higher bipass rate

The carbon they use - they recommend changing it very frequently - you'd be better off with two carbon prefilters. A single 10" carbon filter for a 300 gpd RO is not enough.

Russ

I'm coming from a well, and consequently don't have issues with chlorine/chloramine. My understanding was that the carbon block protected the membranes from damage due to chlorine/chloramine... am I incorrect?

 

[Jag75]

You have a double whammy of low pressure AND cold temperatures.

Your membranes are plumbed in parallel.

That vendor uses special magic and often configures systems with magically high recovery (low waste water flow).
Can't tell you how many of their systems we've fixed for customers.
If you are feeding that system hard water, I'd install a different flow restrictor so you don't prematurely scale the membranes.

The carbon they use - they recommend changing it very frequently - you'd be better off with two carbon prefilters. A single 10" carbon filter for a 300 gpd RO is not enough.

Russ

If we have a couple carbon filters should we run the RO system after those filters?

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

It's been a while since I set everything up, but if I remember right I actually adjusted the supplied restrictors to provide a much higher bipass rate. I'm coming from a well, and consequently don't have issues with chlorine/chloramine. My understanding was that the carbon block protected the membranes from damage due to chlorine/chloramine... am I incorrect?

If you installed both flow restrictors in the same line, you'll get LESS waste water flow - you want more waste water flow.
Ah... right. of course. You do not need to buy their $30+ carbon replacement filter.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

If we have a couple carbon filters should we run the RO system after those filters?

It depends. Might want to give us a call.

Russ
513-312-2343

 

[Jag75]

It depends. Might want to give us a call.

Russ
513-312-2343

Ok thanks . We are in the process of getting things set up . I'll get a hold of you when we're at that step.

 

[Punx Clever]

If you installed both flow restrictors in the same line, you'll get LESS waste water flow - you want more waste water flow.
Ah... right. of course. You do not need to buy their $30+ carbon replacement filter.

Like I said, it's been a while (and quite a few beers) since I installed the system...

I realized what I said and edited the post... but you must have grabbed the quote before I did. Might have cut the 2:1 bypass in half. Short of pulling apart the waste line to see, I couldn't say one way or the other though.

 

[BarryBrews]

I use a 30 gallon water storage barrel that sits on a cart which I refill right after brewing. This allows the RO water to be slowly dripped into the barrel and I don't end up missing when it's full and have a flood. The convenience of the barrel means I can pump the needed water and not have to lift carboys and splash water everywhere.

EZ Water Calculator works great for me.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

I use a 30 gallon water storage barrel that sits on a cart which I refill right after brewing. This allows the RO water to be slowly dripped into the barrel and I don't end up missing when it's full and have a flood. The convenience of the barrel means I can pump the needed water and not have to lift carboys and splash water everywhere.

Do you have a float valve in your barrel and an auto shut off valve (ASOV) that shuts the RO system down when the barrel is full?

 

[BarryBrews]

Do you have a float valve in your barrel and an auto shut off valve (ASOV) that shuts the RO system down when the barrel is full?

I've consider many options. My water storage barrel only has the two bungs on the top and I just didn't want to ruin the integrity of the barrel. I fill the RO at a drip rate which keeps the pressure high for use at the refrigerator. And the barrel is easily candled for volume checks.
Are you aware of a float valve that would work in a barrel bung hole? Thank you.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Most of the time people do not want to mount the float valve through the side wall - so they rig up a simple mount for it like one of these.

 

[NewJersey]

Most of the time people do not want to mount the float valve through the side wall - so they rig up a simple mount for it like one of these.View attachment 723867View attachment 723868

Oh, so the ASOV doesn't ship "ready to go"?
I guess I'm gonna have to buy some stuff and rig it together

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

The ASOV kit includes
*Auto Shut Off Valve
*Check Valve
*Float Valve

Each installation is unique, so really doesn't make sense for us to offer mounting hardware. Remember the float valve has an integrated bulkhead mount - so if you have a properly sized hole in your sidewall you don't need anything else

 

[BarryBrews]

Hmmm....

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Sure - you could drill a hole right through the wall to mount the float valve. Just make sure the barrel didn't previously contain anything nasty, and that it is food grade HDPE.

Russ

 

[BarryBrews]

Yep, water storage barrel from Amazon and there's that maintaining the integrity thing.

There's this at Amazon

which would fit in the bung hole. Thank you for making me check. Maybe...

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Yep - be aware those have BSPP (parallel) threads, not NPT threads.

 

[NewJersey]

The ASOV kit includes
*Auto Shut Off Valve
*Check Valve
*Float Valve

Each installation is unique, so really doesn't make sense for us to offer mounting hardware. Remember the float valve has an integrated bulkhead mount - so if you have a properly sized hole in your sidewall you don't need anything else

Does anybody have a link to some kinda kit I could order to make this work?

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks...c-Plated-Steel-Perforated-Square-Tube/3049417and
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-4-ft-x-1-375-in-Steel-Perforated/3059255

 

[NewJersey]

I'm gonna use this in a spike solo.
Is there some kinda "neater" way to do this using the 1.5" TC in the basket?

 

[k-daddy]

I'm gonna use this in a spike solo.
Is there some kinda "neater" way to do this using the 1.5" TC in the basket?

Not sure about the Spike Solo but this is working for me on my Spike boil kettle. Just some metal strapping I doubled over for strength and a clamp for security. Hasn't failed me yet. I ordered the "adjustable" ASOV option from Buckeye as the "fixed" option looked as though it wouldn't work with the input water line coming in vertically. Russ @ Buckeye is very helpful and easily accessible... great source if you're looking for an RO system.

 

[NewJersey]

So, any clue what I've done wrong?
Tds meter reads 148ppm in and 243ppm out.
Plz halp, fam

 

[NewJersey]

Also, what is in the pic with the black plastic in the bag?
There were NO INSTRUCTIONS whatsoever from buckeye hydro.

 

[NewJersey]

I let it run for like 10 minutes with little change.
I'm not happy so far.

 

[day_trippr]

You would have to have hooked your product line to the waste output from the membrane to do that, or something similar.

Talk to Russ. He'll get you squared away...

Cheers!

 

[NewJersey]

You would have to have hooked your product line to the waste output from the membrane to do that, or something similar.

Talk to Russ. He'll get you squared away...

Cheers!

I guess I'll have to.
Again, I'm shocked there were literally no instructions.

 

[day_trippr]

Stuff happens, could have been a simple oversight. Give Russ a chance to get things squared up.
The stuff in the plastic bag are parts for a saddle clamp mounted drain for your waste line from the membrane. That's a necessity for operation unless you have some other means of disposing the effluent...

Cheers!

 

[NewJersey]

Stuff happens, could have been a simple oversight. Give Russ a chance to get things squared up.
The stuff in the plastic bag are parts for a saddle clamp mounted drain for your waste line from the membrane. That's a necessity for operation unless you have some other means of disposing the effluent...

Cheers!

I have a sink for the effluent.
Gonna look at it again tomorrow.
Not feeling good tho.
If I have to throw it out and buy another I'm good with that too.
Anyone here recommend something that just works "out of the box" with instructions etc?

 

[NewJersey]

How much effluent should there be compared to how much RO filtered water?
When running it, it seemed to be 50/50 by eye.

 

[day_trippr]

There are dependencies on source water temperature and pressure, but typically there's somewhere around 3:1 to 4:1 input volume to RO output with the other parts discharged down the drain. This ratio can be tweaked by sizing the flow restrictor on the waste water side along with the input pressure to the membrane, which may require a booster pump depending on the net household water pressure past all of the pre-filters.

Cheers!

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Should have been a multi-page instruction set in the box. We can email those to you, or you can always download them from the website. I could go through and answer all your questions here, but 3 minutes of looking at the instructions would probably be better.

Russ