Filtering
- Thread starter WTexan
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
jaytizzle
Well-Known Member
No need to filter. Cold crashing is the best thing you can do. Cold crash for 2-3 days then commence your bottling routine.
Hi WTexan! Can you tell us what your process is like?
How many batches have you done?
What do you use to siphon?
How long do you ferment?
Have you used a secondary (bright tank)?
Have you used any clarifiers like whirlfloc or gelatin?
How many batches have you done?
What do you use to siphon?
How long do you ferment?
Have you used a secondary (bright tank)?
Have you used any clarifiers like whirlfloc or gelatin?
jaytizzle
Well-Known Member
No worries. By cold crashing I mean chilling the beer down to refrigerator temps. I put my whole carboy in my refrigerator at 32F for 2 or 3 days then take it out and rack to secondary or rack to my keg (I don't bottle but you could rack straight to bottling bucket). This basically makes everything settle out and pack into a tight cake at the bottom of the fermenter. You get FAR less trub into your next vessel when using this method.
homebrewdad
Well-Known Member
Here's the thing - you can't TRULY filter your beer; some of that sediment in bottles is caused by yeast falling out of suspension. Unless you have a means of force carbing, you have to have that yeast to carb up your bottles for you.
Your best bets are to use something like whirflock or Irish moss in your boil, to go with a nice long primary (3-4 weeks), to consider a secondary, and to cold crash your beer (stick it in the fridge for a couple days before you rack it to the bottling bucket).
Eveen with all of the above, you will still have a little sediment in your bottles. This is part of a naturally carbed beer.
Your best bets are to use something like whirflock or Irish moss in your boil, to go with a nice long primary (3-4 weeks), to consider a secondary, and to cold crash your beer (stick it in the fridge for a couple days before you rack it to the bottling bucket).
Eveen with all of the above, you will still have a little sediment in your bottles. This is part of a naturally carbed beer.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
bleme said:
I have brewed somewhere around 5 batches. I finish fermenting when I get 3 consecutive reading from my hydrometer. I do use a secondary fermenter for an additional 6-7 days (probably not necessary but, I do it). I use Irish moss and add it 15 min before boil is finished.
autobaun70
Well-Known Member
Whirfloc can not be bragged about enough. Also, don't rush getting it out of the primary, especially on quick fermenting ales. Something to try, let them go a week or two beyond when you think they are done, cold crash, then bottle. The longer time in the primary combined with the cold crash will give you a nice tightly compacted slurry, which greatly improves clarity.
WTexan said:
Like homebrewdad said, you have to have some yeast or your beer won't carbonate. You can minimize the yeast by bulk conditioning longer, using a secondary and/or cold crashing. A side effect is that it will probably take your bottles a little longer to carb up.
