Filtering before bottling help???

[felix213]

im about to order a double filter, to filter from the fermintator to the bottling bucket, i need to know how many microns do i need, and do i need a carbon filter then a sediment filter, my main worry is that i will over filter and it will be watered down, by the way im using Mutons gold continental pilsner beer kit, Help please?

 

[Yooper]

im about to order a double filter, to filter from the fermintator to the bottling bucket, i need to know how many microns do i need, and do i need a carbon filter then a sediment filter, my main worry is that i will over filter and it will be watered down, by the way im using Mutons gold continental pilsner beer kit, Help please?

When you filter, you need a kegging set up to "push" the beer. You can't do it by gravity. Are you certain you need a filtering set up? You're talking about hundreds and hundreds of dollars to get the complete set up.

Why don't you just do what many of us do, and not filter? I let the brew sit in the fermenter a couple of weeks, then carefully rack to the bottling bucket without sucking up sediment, and then bottle.

Here's a picture of one of my hoppy beers:

It's perfectly clear- no filtering!

 

[felix213]

filtering cuts alot of time in clearing in the bottle and since im using carb. drops instead of sugar it will be even faster, i dont want any sediment in my beer at all, it not real expensive at all to filter, look

the difference is that im going to use a $7 dollar drill pump to run throught the filters, i just need to know what microns do i need for sediment and for carbon, by the way found this cheap on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0768995301&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

[o4_srt]

If you're bottle conditioning, you might end up filtering out the suspended yeast, and having to repitch to carb, negating the point of the filter.

The cream ale I just bottled was so clear, you could read a newspaper through the glass, no filter used.

It's impossible to remove sediment from the bottle when bottle conditioning because that sediment is the yeast that caused your beer to carbonate. Without it, no carbonation.

To avoid settlement in the bottle, your only option is to keg, force carbonate, then transfer to a bottle. But then, why bottle if you keg, unless entering into competitions or transporting? Additionally, this setup will cost you several hundred.

 

[felix213]

im using the muntons 2 can kit, they told me it wouldnt have any sediment i just want to make sure that theres nothing in the bottles, im fermintating for a week(until airlock stops bubbling) then to bottling bucket straight to bottles(use carb. drops) and leave bottled for for about 2 weeks then fridge and drink, do you think i will have any sediment, i plan on leaving in bottling bucket for a day for sediment to settle

 

[felix213]

If you're bottle conditioning, you might end up filtering out the suspended yeast, and having to repitch to carb, negating the point of the filter.

The cream ale I just bottled was so clear, you could read a newspaper through the glass, no filter used.

It's impossible to remove sediment from the bottle when bottle conditioning because that sediment is the yeast that caused your beer to carbonate. Without it, no carbonation.

To avoid settlement in the bottle, your only option is to keg, force carbonate, then transfer to a bottle. But then, why bottle if you keg, unless entering into competitions or transporting? Additionally, this setup will cost you several hundred.

im using carb drops

 

[Yooper]

filtering cuts alot of time in clearing in the bottle and since im using carb. drops instead of sugar it will be even faster, i dont want any sediment in my beer at all, it not real expensive at all to filter, look http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZKLgztoLVM

the difference is that im going to use a $7 dollar drill pump to run throught the filters, i just need to know what microns do i need for sediment and for carbon, by the way found this cheap on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0768995301&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I don't even know where to start- that system is a disaster! Without co2 to purge the system, you're risking oxidation. He states he keeps a bleach solution it in- that will ruin your beer unless you rinse it well! It's BAD, BAD, BAD all around. Even if you manage to filter the beer, without oxidizing it (unlikely)- how will you carb it up without a keg and co2?

I really think this idea needs some more thought. A Munton's kit is a bad kit anyway- it won't make quality beer to begin with. There are much better options to make good homebrew. Filtering is not routinely necessary with good kits, and I wouldn't throw "good money after bad" like my momma used to say.

But, if you filter out the yeast, your beer will NOT carbonate in the bottle. There will be yeast/sediment in any bottle conditioned beer, as that's where carbonation comes from.

 

[felix213]

I don't even know where to start- that system is a disaster! Without co2 to purge the system, you're risking oxidation. He states he keeps a bleach solution it in- that will ruin your beer unless you rinse it well! It's BAD, BAD, BAD all around. Even if you manage to filter the beer, without oxidizing it (unlikely)- how will you carb it up without a keg and co2?

I really think this idea needs some more thought. A Munton's kit is a bad kit anyway- it won't make quality beer to begin with. There are much better options to make good homebrew. Filtering is not routinely necessary with good kits, and I wouldn't throw "good money after bad" like my momma used to say.

its my first batch and i plan to bottle, i like light beers(miller light, bud light, etc,) anything you recommend for my next batch

 

[o4_srt]

im using the muntons 2 can kit, they told me it wouldnt have any sediment i just want to make sure that theres nothing in the bottles, im fermintating for a week(until airlock stops bubbling) then to bottling bucket straight to bottles(use carb. drops) and leave bottled for for about 2 weeks then fridge and drink, do you think i will have any sediment, i plan on leaving in bottling bucket for a day for sediment to settle

Where to start?

1. You will have sediment. Get used to it, it's homebrew.

2. Do not bottle when bubbling stops. Bottle after your specific gravity is stable over several days, then add a few weeks.

3. After bottling, leave the beer for 3 weeks at 70 degrees minimum. Then refrigerate for 3-5 days before drinking.

4. Do not leave in bottling bucket for a day. Leave it in your primary fermenter or 3-4 weeks, it will be plenty clear. But, you will have sediment, as the yeast that carbonate your beer will settle on the bottom of the bottle when their job is complete.

5. Visit howtobrew.com and read the entire book. Additionally, spend as much time on the forums as you can. You have much to learn.

 

[Yooper]

its my first batch and i plan to bottle, i like light beers(miller light, bud light, etc,) anything you recommend for my next batch

Well, lagers are really tough to do well. They require a lot of temperature control, and tons of time (like 4-6 months!).

How do you feel about a cream ale? Like Genesee Cream ale? Those are fairly quick, cheap, and easy, and they have some great kits at austinhomebrew.com or northernbrewer.com that can give you good quality.

 

[felix213]

Where to start?

1. You will have sediment. Get used to it, it's homebrew.

2. Do not bottle when bubbling stops. Bottle after your specific gravity is stable over several days, then add a few weeks.

3. After bottling, leave the beer for 3 weeks at 70 degrees minimum. Then refrigerate for 3-5 days before drinking.

4. Do not leave in bottling bucket for a day. Leave it in your primary fermenter or 3-4 weeks, it will be plenty clear. But, you will have sediment, as the yeast that carbonate your beer will settle on the bottom of the bottle when their job is complete.

5. Visit howtobrew.com and read the entire book. Additionally, spend as much time on the forums as you can. You have much to learn.

im only using cooper carbination drops to carbinate, this is why i want to filter

 

[o4_srt]

im only using cooper carbination drops to carbinate, this is why i want to filter

Those carb drops are just sugar. You still need yeast to convert the sugar to co2. The co2 will then be absorbed into the beer, since it can't escape the bottle. When the yeast are done, they fall to the bottom of the bottle. Unavoidable unless kegging.

 

[felix213]

Well, lagers are really tough to do well. They require a lot of temperature control, and tons of time (like 4-6 months!).

How do you feel about a cream ale? Like Genesee Cream ale? Those are fairly quick, cheap, and easy, and they have some great kits at austinhomebrew.com or northernbrewer.com that can give you good quality.

ive tried them and they are ok, but these muntons or coopers can kits for like cervesa or american light , are they not good, im a beginer and i like this type of beers, what should i do, the more simple the better

 

[kable]

The cream ale and blond from Brewing Classic Styles have been a big hit for my non microbrew friends.

 

[o4_srt]

ive tried them and they are ok, but these muntons or coopers can kits for like cervesa or american light , are they not good, im a beginer and i like this type of beers, what should i do, the more simple the better

See my step 5 above. The best thing you, as a beginner, can do is educate yourself.

You cannot make American lager without a more complicated, and costly process.

I agree with yooper, cream ales are the closest you can get.

 

[felix213]

Those carb drops are just sugar. You still need yeast to convert the sugar to co2. The co2 will then be absorbed into the beer, since it can't escape the bottle. When the yeast are done, they fall to the bottom of the bottle. Unavoidable unless kegging.

what do you think, or should i just keg it

 

[Yooper]

ive tried them and they are ok, but these muntons or coopers can kits for like cervesa or american light , are they not good, im a beginer and i like this type of beers, what should i do, the more simple the better

Well, Munton's and Coopers kits are junk in my opinion. They don't make a quality product, and may be barely drinkable.

Cervasa and American Lights are lagers. They require cold fermentation, long periods of cold storage, etc, and are among the most difficult brews even for experienced brewers. The "kits" that call themselves by Cervesa and American Light kinda lie to new brewers- making you think you'll make something like that. You cannot. Not without a lager yeast and specialized techniques.

That's why I suggested a cream ale. They are pretty easy, and with a good quality dry yeast like nottingham in a cool basement or room (can you do that in Texas?), you can get a very good beer. The key for any brew is to keep fermentation temperatures UNDER 70 degrees. Not many beers can taste good if the temperature gets above 70 degrees.

But if you can maintain a temperature under 70 degrees, this kit: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produ...d=356&osCsid=e5a5e40d40af2ff8525158e9ee76032b with the "extract" version would be great!

 

[felix213]

Well, Munton's and Coopers kits are junk in my opinion. They don't make a quality product, and may be barely drinkable.

Cervasa and American Lights are lagers. They require cold fermentation, long periods of cold storage, etc, and are among the most difficult brews even for experienced brewers. The "kits" that call themselves by Cervesa and American Light kinda lie to new brewers- making you think you'll make something like that. You cannot. Not without a lager yeast and specialized techniques.

That's why I suggested a cream ale. They are pretty easy, and with a good quality dry yeast like nottingham in a cool basement or room (can you do that in Texas?), you can get a very good beer. The key for any brew is to keep fermentation temperatures UNDER 70 degrees. Not many beers can taste good if the temperature gets above 70 degrees.

But if you can maintain a temperature under 70 degrees, this kit: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produ...d=356&osCsid=e5a5e40d40af2ff8525158e9ee76032b with the "extract" version would be great!

i under 70 no way not in texas in this season, what else would you recommend?

 

[o4_srt]

i under 70 no way not in texas in this season, what else would you recommend?

Honestly not a whole lot. Unless you can keep your fermentation temperature down in the 60-70 range, your beer isn't going to be that great. Do a search for swamp cooler, it's a cheap, easy way to control fomentation temperature.

After watching that video, I don't see why they wouldn't work, but I'm concerned about the sanitation of those things. Seems like they would be difficult to keep clean.

I honestly think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Many commercial craft breweries bottle condition, and contain sediment in the bottle.

 

[felix213]

Honestly not a whole lot. Unless you can keep your fermentation temperature down in the 60-70 range, your beer isn't going to be that great. Do a search for swamp cooler, it's a cheap, easy way to control fomentation temperature.

After watching that video, I don't see why they wouldn't work, but I'm concerned about the sanitation of those things. Seems like they would be difficult to keep clean.

I honestly think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Many commercial craft breweries bottle condition, and contain sediment in the bottle.

but is it cheaperand less hastle to keg? as far as the recipe goes there has to be good beer brewing around here because its the only supplier around the southwest from NM to TX and they all brew and keep buying i doubt they are all making pisswater?

 

[brettwasbtd]

I honestly think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Many commercial craft breweries bottle condition, and contain sediment in the bottle.

+1

The key here is when bottling, be careful to rack as little yeast as possible. Then, try to keep the beers in the fridge at least a week before drink. The yeast sediment will be a nice compact layer at the bottom. I have had crystal clear ales this way. The swamp cooler is a good idea as well. You can investigate saisons which tend to like a little hotter temperatures. If you can't swing that you will just have to plan ahead in the future and brew during the winter months

 

[o4_srt]

but is it cheaperand less hastle to keg? as far as the recipe goes there has to be good beer brewing around here because its the only supplier around the southwest from NM to TX and they all brew and keep buying i doubt they are all making pisswater?

It's more expensive to keg, equipment wise.

Please, please read the book I linked to. It will help you out a lot.

Many people order from online suppliers. Muntons and coopers kits will make beer, just not very good beer. The book I linked to has a bunch of recipes that should be better than any Munton or Cooper kit.

 

[Yooper]

but is it cheaperand less hastle to keg? as far as the recipe goes there has to be good beer brewing around here because its the only supplier around the southwest from NM to TX and they all brew and keep buying i doubt they are all making pisswater?

Many brewers have fermentation chambers set up, if they live in hot climates. If anybody tells you that you can ferment good beer over 72 degrees, they are lying to you. Especially if you like "clean" lagers- no way you can do it without making some modifications. Even if you like fruity, estery English styles, you still wouldn't ferment them above 72 degrees.

You've received good advice in this thread. Instead of craigtube for advice, try looking at some well-regarded beer making tools, like this: http://howtobrew.com/ That's a free online version of his book. Craigtube and other youtube videos may be good, or may not be. If something seems to easy to be true, though, it probably is.

 

[prrriiide]

its my first batch and i plan to bottle, i like light beers(miller light, bud light, etc,) anything you recommend for my next batch

Do a Kölsch.

Easy, light, crisp ale that packs a lot of flavor. I did one last fall, and it was really a hit with my friends. They're already asking me for another batch.

AFA fermenting, you pretty much have 2 choices in Texas: ferm chamber or swamp cooler. But you have to keep your ferm temps down - 70° or less for the wort temp - not the ambient temp.

If you go to Wally World or Kroger, you can get a 10 or 20 gallon rope-handled tote. Fill it about 1/2 way up with water, set your bucket in it and put a t-shirt over your bucket. One tip I discovered...be sure to use an older t-shirt. A new one will not wick the water up the way an old one will and you'll be pouring water over the top of your bucket every 2-3 hours. Put a fan on it and you have a swamp cooler. I have brewed a number of very good beers using this method.

I am currently in the process of building a 3-chambered ferm box because I want to better control my temps. If you don't want to do that you can pick up a cheap freezer on Craigslist or at a garage/estate sale. A Johnson analog temp controller will only set you back about $75 with shipping.