Fermzilla Questions

[Consigliere]

Has anybody else using the Fermzilla and doing closed transfers had trouble with the floating dip tup not staying submerged in the beer? In attempting a closed transfer just now, the dip tube has repeatedly stopped drawing beer and started drawing gas (presumably CO2). After transferring about 3 gallons, I finally abandoned the closed part, released the pressure (unsettling all of the trub, of course), and opened up the lid. I took the dip tube, float, and filter out, cleaned them up and sanitized them, then added a stainless steel shackle (also sanitized) to try and get the damn filter to stay immersed. I put the whole set up back in, closed the lid, hooked up the CO2 line, and purged thoroughly, leaving the beer under about 4 psi. Now I am waiting for the trub to settle back down so I can transfer the rest.

Has anybody else had this sort of trouble with that floating dip tube? Any suggestions would be welcome.

have not had this issue but I do not use the filter. I believe some of these have 3 mount points and will change the angle and depth of the intake for beer.The furthest one to the end I believe gives the most depth. Maybe check that out?

 

[tc53]

Thanks. Yes, I have used the filter for about 5-6 batches now, and I've experimented with all three of the points where you can attach the float. I've had occasional issues with all three. I've read that some people have slipped a sanitized 7/16" SS nut onto the tube where it attaches to the filter and also where the beer is drawn in, apparently it's a snug enough fit that it stays put and keeps the intake submerged, but still near the surface. For now, I hope the shackle I attached will enable me to get that last two gallons moved into the keg. I'll try the 7/16" nut next time around.

 

[micraftbeer]

I experimted with a lot of different things with floating ball dip tubes in kegs. Never went the stainless washer/but direction but that seems like it would work.

Things I found:
1. Thin wall silicone tubing (1 mm wall thickness) is more flexible, less likely to get jammed up against the side. I bought it from Amazon.

2. Make sure the tubing isn't too long. The standard tubing length is for the big FermZilla. You need to cut it so it hangs down and makes an 'L' shape when it hits trub, not a 'J' shape. If too long, the tube will hit trub first and prop up the end of your tube to stick out.

3. In keg, sometimes ball would stick to the side. I could unstick it by briefly disconnecting the reconnecting ball lock, as this would jar the tubing from the sudden flow stoppage and get things to reposition. Better than shaking the keg and disturbing the sediment.

4. But best solution was when I changed over to FLOTit 2.0. Instead of a ball and loop arrangement, it uses a float with an offset hole in it. This does an awesome job of keeping the tube opening under liquid level. Combined with his double filter screen, you can get super low without leaving anything but a puddle of beer on the trub.

 

[Beerstein]

Has anybody else using the Fermzilla and doing closed transfers had trouble with the floating dip tup not staying submerged in the beer? In attempting a closed transfer just now, the dip tube has repeatedly stopped drawing beer and started drawing gas (presumably CO2). After transferring about 3 gallons, I finally abandoned the closed part, released the pressure (unsettling all of the trub, of course), and opened up the lid. I took the dip tube, float, and filter out, cleaned them up and sanitized them, then added a stainless steel shackle (also sanitized) to try and get the damn filter to stay immersed. I put the whole set up back in, closed the lid, hooked up the CO2 line, and purged thoroughly, leaving the beer under about 4 psi. Now I am waiting for the trub to settle back down so I can transfer the rest.

Has anybody else had this sort of trouble with that floating dip tube? Any suggestions would be welcome.

my floating dip tube would never stay submerged. I almost gave up on it until I tried the stainless nut. That worked the charm!

 

[tc53]

I experimted with a lot of different things with floating ball dip tubes in kegs. Never went the stainless washer/but direction but that seems like it would work.

Things I found:
1. Thin wall silicone tubing (1 mm wall thickness) is more flexible, less likely to get jammed up against the side. I bought it from Amazon.

2. Make sure the tubing isn't too long. The standard tubing length is for the big FermZilla. You need to cut it so it hangs down and makes an 'L' shape when it hits trub, not a 'J' shape. If too long, the tube will hit trub first and prop up the end of your tube to stick out.

3. In keg, sometimes ball would stick to the side. I could unstick it by briefly disconnecting the reconnecting ball lock, as this would jar the tubing from the sudden flow stoppage and get things to reposition. Better than shaking the keg and disturbing the sediment.

4. But best solution was when I changed over to FLOTit 2.0. Instead of a ball and loop arrangement, it uses a float with an offset hole in it. This does an awesome job of keeping the tube opening under liquid level. Combined with his double filter screen, you can get super low without leaving anything but a puddle of beer on the trub.

4. But best solution was when I changed over to FLOTit 2.0. Instead of a ball and loop arrangement, it uses a float with an offset hole in it. This does an awesome job of keeping the tube opening under liquid level. Combined with his double filter screen, you can get super low without leaving anything but a puddle of beer on the trub.

Thanks, BeerSnobby, for the suggestions. I took a look at the FLOTit 2.0, and it looks pretty good. While the photos all seem to show it being used in a keg, I'm guessing it would work well in the FermZilla also. Are you using it in a FermZilla?

 

[Scottyward]

Has anybody else using the Fermzilla and doing closed transfers had trouble with the floating dip tube not staying submerged in the beer? In attempting a closed transfer just now, the dip tube has repeatedly stopped drawing beer and started drawing gas (presumably CO2). After transferring about 3 gallons, I finally abandoned the closed part, released the pressure (unsettling all of the trub, of course), and opened up the lid. I took the dip tube, float, and filter out, cleaned them up and sanitized them, then added a stainless steel shackle (also sanitized) to try and get the damn filter to stay immersed. I put the whole set up back in, closed the lid, hooked up the CO2 line, and purged thoroughly, leaving the beer under about 4 psi. Now I am waiting for the trub to settle back down so I can transfer the rest.

Has anybody else had this sort of trouble with that floating dip tube? Any suggestions would be welcome.

What I started doing for all of my floating dip tubes, whether for kegs or fermenters is: I ordered very good quality stainless steel spiral key rings about an inch diameter and a pack of stainless steel nuts. The nut is looped on the Ring and added to the end of the dip tube looped on the spiral ring that exists. The gives enough weight to keep the tube end under the liquid surface. Of course full sanitation of all items.

 

[micraftbeer]

Thanks, BeerSnobby, for the suggestions. I took a look at the FLOTit 2.0, and it looks pretty good. While the photos all seem to show it being used in a keg, I'm guessing it would work well in the FermZilla also. Are you using it in a FermZilla?

Yes, I am. I cold crash in the FermZilla at end of fermentation, so it makes a good yeast cake at the bottom. You can see from the picture that there's a tiny little pool of beer left on top of the yeast cake.

 

[StayThirsty]

I really love floating dip tubes but I’ve had this problem as well. My solution is to attach a magnetic stir bar to the end of my tube. Then I hold a neodymium magnet outside the Fermzilla and “steer” the end of the tube to a position right above the yeast bed. This technique has allowed me to leave very little clear beer in the Fermzilla.

I’ve also used this to solve a related problem: when the end of the tube is too far below the surface and starts picking up yeast while clear beer is still in the Fermzilla.

It seems to me that it’s safe for a Teflon coated stir bar to be in prolonged contact with my beer. I’ve used various ways to attach the stir bar to the tubing but they have always involved a plastic tie-wrap snug around the stir bar.

 

[GoodTruble]

I went to get equipment ready for brew day tomorrow and had an unwelcome surprise - mildew build up on one the plastic fermzilla keg posts. (I think a bit of orange peel got jammed in there during my last brew - a wit).

I luckily have a back up set of keg posts (using the orange one from the line cleaning kit). So brew day is still on without need for the mildew post.

But any tips for cleaning the mildewy plastic post? The mildew build up was visible on the bottom tip, but I could see it up in the tube as well. I flushed it with a line cleaning kit using OneStep. Then soaked in hot water with unscented dish soap. I then plan to soak it in hot water with OneStep (which allegedly does not degrade plastic). Any other suggestions? Should I just pitch and buy nee ones?

Thanks

 

[micraftbeer]

I think you're good with the One Step soaking treatment. Definitely don't soak in Star San.

 

[Malty Matt]

I have the all rounder. I like it quite a bit for a few reasons - very easy closed transfers, floating dip tube for clean beer into keg and i pressurize about half my ferments (majority of time I use pressure is very end of fermentation to get a jump on carbonation). I find it does a good job of temperature with the thermowell but the thermowell is a bit of a pain to keep secured and leak free. I have stripped at least one Duotight fitting due to difficulty to install the nut.

I do find it a bit of a pain to get sealed and apart. A strap wrench is a must to me. Getting the lid off can be tricky and I have never tried to pry it off for fear of damaging the plastic.

I don’t know about longevity. Currently at about 6 months regular use with the plastic pressure kit and no issues so far.
Overall it is my go to fermenter. Would be nice to have a better closed/dry hopping method and ability to dump trub (I have the all rounder) but for the price I think it’s a great value.

I second the strap wrench. Didn't have one at first but learned quickly after coming across the suggestion. Another suggestion I haven't added yet was putting a stainless nut on the floating dip tube. I need one for the All Rounder and kegs.

Have you tried the magnet trick for dry hopping? I've used it twice now with a lot of success. Two food safe magnets, muslin bag, and release when ready.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTP4ZP...t_i_NJRHQTX90Q4H6Y6M673X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[earachemyeye69]

Um..... that’s not going to work. Any recommendations on temp twister height in a 27l with a float tube?

 

[Malty Matt]

Um..... that’s not going to work. Any recommendations on temp twister height in a 27l with a float tube?

Are you talking about the excess tubing sticking out of the top? If so, a $3 multi-purpose pipe cutter from Lowes or HD.

If you are worried about the floating dip tube getting tangled then I think that's a common design flaw many have with the Fermzilla.

 

[earachemyeye69]

Yeah, float tube getting tangled. Just curious if there’s an ideal height of the twister. Seems that pushing it down so the float doesn’t get stuck under the coils might work.

 

[Smudgey]

Pushing the temp twister down will sacrifice a few handles of beer - its quite nice when the dip tube draws right down near the butterfly valve...

 

[micraftbeer]

I use one of these on the outside of my FermZilla All Rounder. Thermowell on the inside, cooling from the outside. Works great.

 

[hottpeper13]

The ring attached to the float ball broke on mine and I'm just going to let it set down by the valve on my next ferment.

 

[kartracer]

Got my Fermzilla Tri-conical yesterday for small batches. I have a 20 gallon and 7 gallon SS conicals (latter was a mistake for small batches, hence my Fermzilla purchase.) I did plenty of research before purchasing it and yesterday I attached all the parts, put about a gallon of water with some PBW, gave it a good shake, put on my spunding valve, set pressure to 20 PSI to see how pressure would hold.

I had water leaking from the top of the collection jar, even though I hand tightened it as best I could. Here's my primary problem/complaint: the manual says to tighten the triclover lid until there are no threads on the jar showing. I had about one thread or a bit less showing, but I didn't want to engage heavy duty tools to tighten more (I will have to get the strap wrench apparently.) I used keg lube on the O rings, and I ALSO USED KEG LUBE ON THE THREADS OF THE JAR. I thought I read that suggestion somewhere. Was that a mistake or OK? Of course, now I can't separate the lid from the jar. :-(

Any tips on tightening/removing the lid from the collection jar? The top lid gave a small fight. but it came off much easier.

TIA and Hoppy Holidaze to all!

Mike

 

[hottpeper13]

My suggestion is, I wish I just got the Spike in the first place. you get what you pay for. mine sits empty now!

 

[micraftbeer]

I'm guessing your problem must've been from the krausen overflow. I use my fermzilla all rounders a lot. I hand tighten the lid fairly tight, and don't use any keg lube on the lid or seal. I always have to use the oil filter wrench to get the lid off, but never at risk of collapse.

I've never had a krausen overflow mainly because of the cavernous headspace, but also usually run like 1-2 psi via spunding after the first 24 hours, and that does make a big difference on krausen. On other fermentors in the past where I did get an overflow, I do recall that dried crust being a serious glue.

Lastly, I have several different fermentors, and I find the opposite trend of @hottpeper13 - I find I usually grab the All Rounder and skip the stainless conical. All Rounder is just so easy to clean, has so few parts to assemble/disassemble, and it's small enough to just stick in my beer fridge to cold crash.

 

[kartracer]

No krausen, just my initial cleaning/pressure test. So today, I removed as much of the keg lube from the threads as I could. That stuff is stubborn. I removed the O ring from the collection jar and screwed on the lid. Halfway on it meets a fair bit of resistance, then past that goes on all the way.
So next test with the O ring in place, I won’t be afraid to tighten past that resistance point knowing it has room to go without cracking the jar.

 

[Panderson1]

I have used my Firmzilla around 60 batches (all 10 gal). Never had a problem w the jar. I never use keg lube. I wash the O ring off. Only issue is sometimes it's really hard to take it apart (using that band tool).

 

[rmchair]

For the lid, a plastic interior car trim kit has good tools to wedge in there without destroying. I bought one of ebay for $12 to pop those evil plastic rivets in car dash.

 

[Panderson1]

Has anyone used the new Hop Bong Pressure Pack for FermZilla?

Tempted to give this a go. It's a pain dry hopping from the bottom. I have to remove trub/ yeast twice (at least) before dry hopping otherwise the yeast falls into the jar and the hops don't move.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/hop-bong-pressure-pack-fermzilla-2.html

 

[Panderson1]

^ Finally pulled the trigger on this. So far so good. Should be dry hopping in a few days. The quality seems pretty good. The C clamps work great