Fermentation to bottling transfer time

[Nikoenig]

Hi all, I have a question that has been bothering for a while now: do I need to bottle as soon as the fermentation is finished (same gravity) or can I let it sit in the fermenter?
Does that impact re taste at all?

I have brewed 3 batches so far and feel like i might be bottling a tad early.

 

[JonM]

Nope - you can (and should) leave it in the fermenter for a while after fermentation is complete, like maybe a week or two (but even longer is okay too). It helps to clear the beer by letting the yeast drop out of suspension after they've finished the fermentation.

 

[masskrug]

I've always let it sit for three weeks, even though primary fermentation is probably done in one. There are some off flavors clean up.

 

[Nikoenig]

Wow, thanks for the replies.

It all makes sense now, my hefeweizen was good but I can definitely see it being a lot better had I left it in the fermenter another couple of weeks.

That leads to another question though, will there still be enough yeast left to eat the priming sugar and create carbonation in the bottles?

 

[dobe12]

Yes, there will still be plenty of yeast. The only time you need to worry about reyeasting before bottling is when your beer sits for a very long time (6+ months or more) or if the alcohol level is at or above the yeasts limit.

 

[BigFloyd]

The progression of fermentation depends on several factors. The biggest ones are pitch rate (did you pitch enough healthy yeast?), good aeration/oxygenation if using liquid yeast (O2 needed for reproduction), gravity, yeast strain used and temperature control.

For a medium gravity ale with a good pitch rate, take the first reading at 10-12 days. Take another 4 days later. If they're exactly the same and not unusually high, it's done fermenting and cleaning up (which typically takes 3-4 days).

 

[jigtwins]

The progression of fermentation depends on several factors. The biggest ones are pitch rate (did you pitch enough healthy yeast?), good aeration/oxygenation if using liquid yeast (O2 needed for reproduction), gravity, yeast strain used and temperature control.

For a medium gravity ale with a good pitch rate, take the first reading at 10-12 days. Take another 4 days later. If they're exactly the same and not unusually high, it's done fermenting and cleaning up (which typically takes 3-4 days).

Really good info. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Nikoenig]

Thanks for the feedback, it's going to make a huge difference in the future. Really appreciate it.

Right now i get okay beer but flavours are a bit rough, following your suggestion should help define the flavors.

The next step for me is to control carbonation a bit better...

 

[BigFloyd]

Thanks for the feedback, it's going to make a huge difference in the future. Really appreciate it.

Right now i get okay beer but flavours are a bit rough, following your suggestion should help define the flavors.

The next step for me is to control carbonation a bit better...

Most likely, the thing that's causing flavor issues is that you're pitching and/or fermenting at too warm of a temperature. For most ales, 18*C (64*F) beer temp is excellent for the first 4-5 days after which you can let it finish around 20*C.

 

[Nikoenig]

It's winter here in Melbourne so I had to buy a heatpad that keeps my fermenter at 22*c constantly but I cannot change that. I thought that was okay though.

 

[BigFloyd]

It's winter here in Melbourne so I had to buy a heatpad that keeps my fermenter at 22*c constantly but I cannot change that. I thought that was okay though.

That's a bit on the warm side for many ale yeast strains and will produce anything from mild fruity esters to some pretty funky flavors (from strains like Nottingham). What's the ambient air temp in your house this time of year? Around 16*C air temp is excellent during the active part of fermentation. You can then apply the heat pad after things have settled down.

You can actually change the temp at which the heating pad shuts off by plugging it into a controller outlet box built with an STC-1000.

 

[Nikoenig]

Thanks for the reply.

It's actually around 17/18*c inside my house but I thought that was too cold, isn't it? Doesn't it depend on the yeast type?

So technically:
Primary fermentation about 18*c for a week or so (that's when it bubbles)
Secondary fermentation slightly warmer 22*c for a couple of weeks to refine the flavors - dry hopping can happen at this point in time
Ready to bottle with priming

Did I get that right???

If I choose to buy a temp controller, can I trust eBay for that?

 

[BigFloyd]

Thanks for the reply.

It's actually around 17/18*c inside my house but I thought that was too cold, isn't it? Doesn't it depend on the yeast type?

So technically:
Primary fermentation about 18*c for a week or so (that's when it bubbles)
Secondary fermentation slightly warmer 22*c for a couple of weeks to refine the flavors - dry hopping can happen at this point in time
Ready to bottle with priming

Did I get that right???

If I choose to buy a temp controller, can I trust eBay for that?

Those temps are okay, but just leave it in the primary. No secondary needed for most beers.

eBay is fine so long as you get an STC-1000, Ranco or Johnson.