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Fermentation temperature for IPA

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Iberwolf

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Hello guys, I doubt with respect to fermentation temperature of an IPA I drew.
Well, I'm thinking of doing a triple fermentation without mature beer, so you can give maximum flavor and aroma of hops.
What do you think? Yeast I will use is the Fermentis US 05. I look forward for your help.
 
this post is all kinds of confusing.

if the question is what temp should you ferment 05 at...i'd go with 66ish.
 
Well, I'm thinking of doing a triple fermentation without mature beer, so you can give maximum flavor and aroma of hops.

Iberwolf, I think I remember you saying before your google translate sometimes does funny things. Can you explain what you mean by this part? Are you thinking of doing 3 additions of dry hops maybe? Sometimes people use the term "secondary fermentation" when they mean racking to a secondary vessel for dry hopping, but it's a misnomer used that way as there is really no additional fermentation going on unless you are adding sugars.
 
Iberwolf, I think I remember you saying before your google translate sometimes does funny things. Can you explain what you mean by this part? Are you thinking of doing 3 additions of dry hops maybe? Sometimes people use the term "secondary fermentation" when they mean racking to a secondary vessel for dry hopping, but it's a misnomer used that way as there is really no additional fermentation going on unless you are adding sugars.







this post is all kinds of confusing.

if the question is what temp should you ferment 05 at...i'd go with 66ish.

Yes, I used Google translator because I was in my snack time at work and do not have much time so I decided to use Google translator. I apologize for having created this very confusing topic: / Well, I'm also undecided on the type of fermentation that will choose to brew beer (single, double or triple stage) I read in some blogs that use a triple fermentation, the hop flavors can about further out than the double and single fermentation. As I am thinking of leaving beer maturation part (to feel the fresh hop flavor), I don't know what the most appropriate type of fermentation and what the ideal temperature to ferment properly.
 
No worries! Just trying to clarify so we can help you. I think you are probably talking about the technique of adding multiple additions of dry hop to try to improve the aroma that you get compared to a single addition. In other words you would put in one dry hop addition, several days later add another, etc. I haven't really tried it before but some folks do say it improves the results. Personally I would suggest doing this all in the same vessel though, each time you transfer to another vessel you risk exposing the beer to oxygen and infection. As I mentioned these are not really additional "fermentations" anyway, as you are not adding sugars just dry hops. You also don't want to age a hoppy beer as the aroma will start to fade, so as soon as you are done dry hopping you should get it packaged.

As far as temp I agree with atom 66* sounds fine for the primary fermentation for US-05, at the end of fermentation you could let it warm up a bit. Mostly you want to dry hop at least room temp or warmer.
 
Hello guys, I doubt with respect to fermentation temperature of an IPA I drew.
Well, I'm thinking of doing a triple fermentation without mature beer, so you can give maximum flavor and aroma of hops.
What do you think? Yeast I will use is the Fermentis US 05. I look forward for your help.

When you write that you are doing triple fermentation do you mean that you will transfer (e.g. by siphon or pump) the fermenting wort from the primary fermentation vessel (e.g a carboy or bucket or conical) to a secondary vessel and then later transfer it to a third vessel?

Or does triple fermentation referred to three different additions of dry hops during fermentation?
 
No worries! Just trying to clarify so we can help you. I think you are probably talking about the technique of adding multiple additions of dry hop to try to improve the aroma that you get compared to a single addition. In other words you would put in one dry hop addition, several days later add another, etc. I haven't really tried it before but some folks do say it improves the results. Personally I would suggest doing this all in the same vessel though, each time you transfer to another vessel you risk exposing the beer to oxygen and infection. As I mentioned these are not really additional "fermentations" anyway, as you are not adding sugars just dry hops. You also don't want to age a hoppy beer as the aroma will start to fade, so as soon as you are done dry hopping you should get it packaged.

As far as temp I agree with atom 66* sounds fine for the primary fermentation for US-05, at the end of fermentation you could let it warm up a bit. Mostly you want to dry hop at least room temp or warmer.

Then I will make an addition of dry hops missing seven days for fermentation, do you think? With regard to beer maturation, I think I do well not to make the maturation?
 
No worries! Just trying to clarify so we can help you. I think you are probably talking about the technique of adding multiple additions of dry hop to try to improve the aroma that you get compared to a single addition. In other words you would put in one dry hop addition, several days later add another, etc. I haven't really tried it before but some folks do say it improves the results. Personally I would suggest doing this all in the same vessel though, each time you transfer to another vessel you risk exposing the beer to oxygen and infection. As I mentioned these are not really additional "fermentations" anyway, as you are not adding sugars just dry hops. You also don't want to age a hoppy beer as the aroma will start to fade, so as soon as you are done dry hopping you should get it packaged.

As far as temp I agree with atom 66* sounds fine for the primary fermentation for US-05, at the end of fermentation you could let it warm up a bit. Mostly you want to dry hop at least room temp or warmer.

While fermentation, you say to make a first step to 66F for 10 days and another 10 days to 69F?
 
When you write that you are doing triple fermentation do you mean that you will transfer (e.g. by siphon or pump) the fermenting wort from the primary fermentation vessel (e.g a carboy or bucket or conical) to a secondary vessel and then later transfer it to a third vessel?

Or does triple fermentation referred to three different additions of dry hops during fermentation?

No, I was speaking in various beer fermentation levels as for example: 1 fermentation: 4 days at 68F
2 fermentation: 10 days at 69F
3 69F fermentation: 14 days at 66F
 
No, I was speaking in various beer fermentation levels as for example: 1 fermentation: 4 days at 68F
2 fermentation: 10 days at 69F
3 69F fermentation: 14 days at 66F

Okay, we would refer to that as all one fermentation. I would call what you are listing the "fermentation schedule" - i.e. 4 days at 68, 10 days at 69, etc. In general I would recommend starting on the lower side for the yeast's temp range then gradually let it rise. Or just keep it at one temp until it's finished fermenting, the main thing you want to avoid is letting the yeast cool too much and drop out early. So if I were doing this beer with US 05 I might start at 65-66, keep it there a few days then let it rise up to 69-70, and probably start dry hopping around day 7-10. I usually have my IPA's packaged by 2 wks as they are best young and more aging just leads to loss of hop character.

Does that help?
 
Okay, we would refer to that as all one fermentation. I would call what you are listing the "fermentation schedule" - i.e. 4 days at 68, 10 days at 69, etc. In general I would recommend starting on the lower side for the yeast's temp range then gradually let it rise. Or just keep it at one temp until it's finished fermenting, the main thing you want to avoid is letting the yeast cool too much and drop out early. So if I were doing this beer with US 05 I might start at 65-66, keep it there a few days then let it rise up to 69-70, and probably start dry hopping around day 7-10. I usually have my IPA's packaged by 2 wks as they are best young and more aging just leads to loss of hop character.

Does that help?

It helped a lot! What is the time you usually leave the IPA to ferment?
 
It helped a lot! What is the time you usually leave the IPA to ferment?

Here's what I do, but realize there are lots of ways to skin a cat and folks have different preferences. I also tend to pitch good sized healthy starters and use yeast strains whose behavior I am familiar with.

- Ferment about 7-8 days - I like to see that the krausen has dropped and the beer is pretty clear.
- dry hop 3-7 days
-(sometimes) cold crash for about 24 hrs
-package (for me this is kegging)
 
Here's what I do, but realize there are lots of ways to skin a cat and folks have different preferences. I also tend to pitch good sized healthy starters and use yeast strains whose behavior I am familiar with.

- Ferment about 7-8 days - I like to see that the krausen has dropped and the beer is pretty clear.
- dry hop 3-7 days
-(sometimes) cold crash for about 24 hrs
-package (for me this is kegging)
Then you ferment the beer in 15 days at the most, right?
 
Then you ferment the beer in 15 days at the most, right?

Yes, it's usually in the keg by 15 days. I do pay attention to the yeast though as I mentioned - good sized healthy starter, oxygenate the wort. If bottling you just want to make sure it's fully fermented first.
 
Yes, it's usually in the keg by 15 days. I do pay attention to the yeast though as I mentioned - good sized healthy starter, oxygenate the wort. If bottling you just want to make sure it's fully fermented first.

And how would I know if it's fermented 100 percent? I tend to bottle in bottles with sugar, but soon I will have a co2 filling system because my is stainless steel fermented
 
And how would I know if it's fermented 100 percent? I tend to bottle in bottles with sugar, but soon I will have a co2 filling system because my is stainless steel fermented

The standard way is to take gravity readings several days apart and make sure they are stable. In practice I don't really do this anymore and just take a single reading, but until you get a feel for fermentations and particular yeasts I would recommend going the safe route and taking readings.
 
Here's what I do, but realize there are lots of ways to skin a cat and folks have different preferences. I also tend to pitch good sized healthy starters and use yeast strains whose behavior I am familiar with.

- Ferment about 7-8 days - I like to see that the krausen has dropped and the beer is pretty clear.
- dry hop 3-7 days
-(sometimes) cold crash for about 24 hrs
-package (for me this is kegging)

LOL. I know you are trying to be as helpful as possible but I'm not sure idioms like "to skin a cat" translate that well into other languages

But yeah. I try to get my IPAs packaged as soon as possible to preserve the hop character. Usually about 2 weeks for me as well
 
LOL. I know you are trying to be as helpful as possible but I'm not sure idioms like "to skin a cat" translate that well into other languages

But yeah. I try to get my IPAs packaged as soon as possible to preserve the hop character. Usually about 2 weeks for me as well

OMG, that went right over my head. Sorry Iber, hope that didn't confuse your translation!
:D

edit: I just did it again! over my head, sheesh
 
Don't worry, I understood what you meant. How can you check that fermentation is over? Measure the density?

Okay good. See my post #16 above, yes the safest way is measuring the specific gravity over 2 readings a few days apart. Do you have a hydrometer?
 
yeah, take readings a stable final gravity over 3 days or so will let you know its done fermenting. Most beers I give another week to finish up, but IPAs I package right when its done
 
No, I was speaking in various beer fermentation levels as for example: 1 fermentation: 4 days at 68F
2 fermentation: 10 days at 69F
3 69F fermentation: 14 days at 66F

Ok thanks I understand now. Like others have replied that is one fermentation with multiple temperature steps.

When you are just starting out you might want to just stick to a couple of temperature levels. Perhaps 7 to 10 days at the optimal temperature for whatever yeast you are using, in the case of US-04 that is ideally 59 to 68F with the middle sweet spot of 64, until fermentation is complete as determined by steady gravity readings near the expected final gravity. Most brewers I know do not do the small multiple temperature fermentation steps for ales that you have described above.

If you are planning on using a temperature schedule like the one quoted above I think you'll end up with a better final product if an idea of why you are setting the temperature for a certain number of days to a particular level. That is you should be aware of what it is are you trying to achieve with each level.

Many brewers when brewing lagers will begin fermentation in the mid 50s F and then when the wort is about 75% attenuated will raise the wort temperature for a few days up to the mid to high 60s F to do a diacetyl rest in order to complete the fermentation process. Often the changes between temperatures are gradually made over a period of days although this isn't universal.

</My $.02> Good luck.
 
yeah, take readings a stable final gravity over 3 days or so will let you know its done fermenting. Most beers I give another week to finish up, but IPAs I package right when its done
Thanks for your help m00ps!
 
Ok thanks I understand now. Like others have replied that is one fermentation with multiple temperature steps.

When you are just starting out you might want to just stick to a couple of temperature levels. Perhaps 7 to 10 days at the optimal temperature for whatever yeast you are using, in the case of US-04 that is ideally 59 to 68F with the middle sweet spot of 64, until fermentation is complete as determined by steady gravity readings near the expected final gravity. Most brewers I know do not do the small multiple temperature fermentation steps for ales that you have described above.

If you are planning on using a temperature schedule like the one quoted above I think you'll end up with a better final product if an idea of why you are setting the temperature for a certain number of days to a particular level. That is you should be aware of what it is are you trying to achieve with each level.

Many brewers when brewing lagers will begin fermentation in the mid 50s F and then when the wort is about 75% attenuated will raise the wort temperature for a few days up to the mid to high 60s F to do a diacetyl rest in order to complete the fermentation process. Often the changes between temperatures are gradually made over a period of days although this isn't universal.

</My $.02> Good luck.
Yes, I'm trying to put together a timeline of fermentation with different temperatures but not and what are the most viable options I have to end up with a good product. Maybe 2 or 3 steps with different temperatures and one of those steps with a high temperature could make a difference in fermentation. While I don't buy a co2 filling system, I'm going to have to make the fermentation in the bottle.
 
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