Fermentation Problem/Wort Chiller Issue

[snachreiner]

I have done about 4 batches of beer (select varieties) and all have come out well. I use standard brew packs that I get at my local supply store and I have a fairly straight forward brewing process down at this point. However, my last two batches seem to not ferment as well as my last batches. For example after about a day there is visibly no activity. I use Whites Lab yeast and have had success in the past with it. The only thing I can think of that has been different is I have started to use a Wort Chiller to cool faster. I add it into my pot with about 20-30 mins left in my final boil (as per instructions) to sanitize it. Could this be causing some negative reaction? Also, the last two batches have also come out black in color. At first I thought this was OK because the first batch was a darker holiday ale, but the more recent one was an Oktoberfest, which I'm pretty sure should not be black... Thoughts?

 

[Spartangreen]

I wouldn't look at the wort chiller as a root cause for darker than expected beer.
It would have to be something else.

 

[barleyboy]

I have done about 4 batches of beer (select varieties) and all have come out well. I use standard brew packs that I get at my local supply store and I have a fairly straight forward brewing process down at this point. However, my last two batches seem to not ferment as well as my last batches. For example after about a day there is visibly no activity. I use Whites Lab yeast and have had success in the past with it. The only thing I can think of that has been different is I have started to use a Wort Chiller to cool faster. I add it into my pot with about 20-30 mins left in my final boil (as per instructions) to sanitize it. Could this be causing some negative reaction? Also, the last two batches have also come out black in color. At first I thought this was OK because the first batch was a darker holiday ale, but the more recent one was an Oktoberfest, which I'm pretty sure should not be black... Thoughts?

The wort chiller shouldn't have any effect on the color. If you are doing extract brewing, as I assume you are, make sure you remove the kettle from the burner while adding the extract. If you don't it could scorch he extract and make it much darker.
As for the assumed fermentation troubles, don't use the air lock as a fermentation gauge. Plenty of great batches have been made without a single bubble visualized. If you question the fermentation, take a SG reading with a hydrometer. That's the ONLY way to know if it's fermenting. I don't recommend doing this often, just when the beer should be done. Too often sampling increases contamination risk. The reason the air lock activity is less than your previous batches is probably due to the lower wort temp. It will ferment slower at lower temps. Or perhaps some sort of leak in the lid. Just RDWHAHB!

Cheers!

 

[Holy_Hops]

You could also consider making a yeast starter if you've just been pitching the vial directly in the cooled wort.

Each beer is its own unique animal, though. Sometimes they'll start fermenting right away & sometimes it could take up to 3 days. It all depends on a number of variables.

Beers will also appear darker before and during fermentation. The true color you're going for will show itself once it's in the glass!

 

[snachreiner]

Thank you all for some great feedback.

BarleyBoy - I never thought about pulling the kettle off the burner to ensure the extract does not get scorched. That could be the culprit as I did see some scorching on the bottom of the kettle during cleanup. Also, my OG was like 1.068 which is I feel is decent. I will be taking another reading in a week when I swap to a secondary, so I will be able to check the progress then.

Holy Hops - I have will have to give this a try on my next batch. I keep wanting to do it, but then my brew day comes up and I never got around to doing it. Next time for sure.

 

[Yesfan]

I've been told here that partial boils will result in darker colored beers compared to being able to do a full boil. The wheat beer I did has an orangish color to it instead of a golden due to me only boiling 2.5 gallons vs the full 5. It still tastes pretty good though.

I know you mentioned you have 4 batches under your belt, but assume the last two were darker beers to start with? Maybe those dark beers are darker than normal for a partial boil.

 

[duboman]

A couple tings to consider for the next batch:

Consider adding at least half of the extract as a late addition, last 15 minutes of the boil and it will help lighten the color of your beers and yes, be sure to remove from heat while adding to prevent scorch. Also, if you continue to use liquid yeast then you need to start making starters to ensure proper pitching rate: http://www.yeastcalc.com will help you calculate proper pitch rate for any beer you brew. Aeration of the wort prior to pitching is also very important so be sure you are really getting a lot of O2 going prior to pitch by shaking, stirring and mixing like crazy. O2 is paramount to the growth phase of yeast and reduces lag time.

 

[CBXBob]

Snachreiner, if you see scorching on the bottom of your pot, it's a very possible culprit for darkening. And if your OG was 1.068 and you didn't do a starter with your liquid yeast, that is why you had a delayed start on your fermentation. High gravity beers need a lot of active yeast, liquid yeasts have lower cells counts than dry. So you need a starter with them. I'm only one year in to the hobby(70 gallons ), and now have gravitated to using dry yeasts (for ease of use, storage etc.), and sometimes doubling even those with high gravity beers. Just re hydrating the yeast, not making starters. I found the pro/con sticky to be a lot of help in deciding how/what/when in brewing. in fact all of the sticky's are great reads, and super informative. The hobby rocks, and HBT is awesome

 

[Pie_Man]

On the issue of fermentation, I would begin to do several things to ensure a good fermentation and finished beer:

• Make a starter several days in advance using a pitching rate calculator like mrmalty.com, or yeastcalc.com
• Make sure you add plenty of oxygen at pitching time.
• Keep your yeast happy during fermentation by fermenting at the appropriate temperature for the strain of yeast. Note that the temperature of your beer is what matters and not the ambient room temperature.
• Give the beer ample time to ferment and use gravity readings to determine completeness and attenuation.

The darkening of your beer is most likely a result of a portion of your extract caramelizing on the bottom of the kettle and darkening your wort. To avoid this, you can add about 50% (or more) of your extract during the last 15-20 minutes. I always stir the extract in which seems to help a little as well. Fermentation can also alter the color of your beer, I know things like pitching rate and fermentation temperature can have slight affects on the finished color, but if your wort is dark to start off with, it's probably the caramelized extract. Good luck and keep brewing.

 

[snachreiner]

Thanks again everyone for the tips for the future to help improve things. I got home yesterday and there was a lot of activity both visibly in the Carboy and through my blow off tube. This morning before I left for work there was a nice healthy kraeusen forming and the color has lightened up as well. It seems I just was not patient enough on this one (it is true RDWHAHB). I will defiantly be trying a yeast starter on my next batch and will also be removing the kettle from the burner.