Fermentation might not have been complete.... bottling now!

[jageorge72]

Did a Brooklyn Brew Kit about 6 months ago, so this is only my second batch. Very new at this. I am using one of those Munton's extract 40 pint kits.

It says in the instructions after adding yeast to wait 4 to 6 days before bottling. It took about 2 days for the yeast to take off because I think I got it too cold in my ice bath when cooling the wort down initially. I left enough space in my fermenter that nothing bubbled out through the airlock. I couldn't tell if it was still bubbling, but just assumed it was done. It has been 5 or 6days since the yeast took off.

Anyway..... as I was filling bottles and getting down near the sludge in the bottom, I opened the top of the fermenter and looked in. I can still see little bubbles popping up here and there. Maybe that is a result of me filling bottles? ....or possibly the yeast still working!

So what happens if the yeast is not quite done, and prime it with a little sugar for carbonation & cap the bottles? Any quick answers are much appreciated...... bottles are full and about the be sealed. Help!

 

[WayFrae]

If fermentation was not complete and you prime the bottles then you will have overcarbonated beer at best and bottle bombs (literally exploding bottles) at worst. You should invest in a hydrometer (~$7) to see if fermentation is finished before bottling in the future. There is no way to know if it was completely finished fermenting without a gravity reading from a hydrometer. If I were you I would put all the bottles in a sealed container like a rubbermaid bin to contain any bottle bombs. After a few weeks if the bottles haven't exploded then you should be good to go!

 

[jageorge72]

Well..... bottling is complete. I did cut back on the sugar a bit just in case. So..... if these bottles were to explode, when can I expect the bombs to start going off? A day? A week? Is there still a chance they can explode when I refridgerate them?

 

[flars]

You brewed this 6 months ago and bottled today?

 

[MikeBergan]

You brewed this 6 months ago and bottled today?

No, he is on a different kit this time. He's just trying to relate that this is only his 2nd brew, but it got worded a bit confusing, I guess.

 

[surffisher2a]

how many days has it been since you brewed this batch that you just bottled?

For future reference: ignore the time on just about every kit you buy. You should almost never bottle a beer after only 6 days of fermenting. Most beers should go at least 20 days and some even longer than that before you bottle or keg.

 

[jageorge72]

how many days has it been since you brewed this batch that you just bottled?

For future reference: ignore the time on just about every kit you buy. You should almost never bottle a beer after only 6 days of fermenting. Most beers should go at least 20 days and some even longer than that before you bottle or keg.

I brewed it last Saturday, and botteled it today.... Friday. Today is the 7th day, but probably only the 5th day since the fermentation took off. I was just trying to follow the instructions. I have another can of Munton's, so I'll learn from the mistakes I make this time.

So..... it has been a few hours. No explosions yet.

 

[Braufessor]

Put them in a tub.

Do you have a hydrometer??? If you do, you could open one and check the final gravity of the beer you bottled. If it is 1.014-1.02 you will probably have overcarbonated beer. If you test it and it is 1.030..... you are going to have bottle bombs.

And, yes, those kit instructions SUCK. My biggest pet peeve in brewing - the obviously bad/wrong directions that beginners are given in their kits.

 

[J187]

I don't really understand why you'd have gone ahead and sealed the bottles after getting a very good answer from Wayfrae within minutes of your question. Bottle bombs are not a game. People have ended up in the hospital. I understand you were victim to bad kit instructions but you were given the chance to handle it responsibly.

 

[IslandLizard]

I don't really understand why you'd have gone ahead and sealed the bottles after getting a very good answer from Wayfrae within minutes of your question. Bottle bombs are not a game. People have ended up in the hospital. I understand you were victim to bad kit instructions but you were given the chance to handle it responsibly.

Well said!
Why even ask questions if you're not going to wait for an answer?
+10 on all the suggestions above.

Depending on how active that yeast is, how much fermentable sugar is left in those bottles, the temperature you're storing them at, how strong the bottles are, etc., they can start exploding anytime from 2 days to 3 months or longer from now.

If you stick them in a plastic tote with a lid on you could contain some of the mess, but when one explodes, it may trigger others by flying glass shards, and the sheer force. When you pick one up it's like holding a live grenade.

 

[jageorge72]

Well the beer was in bottles sitting out in the open and I needed leave the house soon for a few hours. I did not want it to get contaminated by sitting out in the open. Also.... I do not have a hydrometer. I'll definitely get one for next time.

Bottles are in sealed coolers right now. So ignoring the instruction in the kit......... how many days do I leave them sit before putting them in the fridge, and how many days should they sit in the fridge before drinking?

 

[Braufessor]

*In regard to the hydrometer, I would try to get one now and open one of those bottles ASAP to check the gravity. That will give you a really good idea of any potential problems you might have. Local Homebrew store? Can you borrow one quick from someone?

*How long....... Well, a properly finished beer, with the correct amt. of priming sugar, stored at upper 60's/low 70's..... probably around 10-20 days to carbonate properly. Generally, once it is carbonated to desired levels, once they are cold they are good to drink.

-the problem though is that you really don't have the "properly" part of this. You don't know what you are working with. As mentioned above - these could be fine....... they could be overcarbed...... they could blow up...... they could blow up in 3 days, 3 weeks or 3 months...... that is really why you need to try to get your hands on a hydrometer ASAP and see what it is you have on your hands.

In the future - GENERAL guideline (but a hydrometer is the only way to know for sure.)

*Pitch proper amt of yeast at proper (mid-upper 60's) temperature.

*Primary ferment..... at least in the beginning, I would just let it go 14-21 days (if dry hopping you can do that during this time).

*Take hydrometer reading at that point to confirm your gravity is where it needs to be...... but, in general, under proper conditions, your beer is going to be done by this point (after 14 days). Bigger beers could take longer and require a secondary fermentation. Then transfer to bottling bucket, add priming sugar and bottle.

But, again, the ONLY way to really know is taking hydrometer readings and knowing that fermentation has ceased.

 

[rocketsan]

This is an awesome recipe for disaster...good luck...


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[jageorge72]

*In regard to the hydrometer, I would try to get one now and open one of those bottles ASAP to check the gravity. That will give you a really good idea of any potential problems you might have. Local Homebrew store? Can you borrow one quick from someone?

*How long....... Well, a properly finished beer, with the correct amt. of priming sugar, stored at upper 60's/low 70's..... probably around 10-20 days to carbonate properly. Generally, once it is carbonated to desired levels, once they are cold they are good to drink.

-the problem though is that you really don't have the "properly" part of this. You don't know what you are working with. As mentioned above - these could be fine....... they could be overcarbed...... they could blow up...... they could blow up in 3 days, 3 weeks or 3 months...... that is really why you need to try to get your hands on a hydrometer ASAP and see what it is you have on your hands.

In the future - GENERAL guideline (but a hydrometer is the only way to know for sure.)

*Pitch proper amt of yeast at proper (mid-upper 60's) temperature.

*Primary ferment..... at least in the beginning, I would just let it go 14-21 days (if dry hopping you can do that during this time).

*Take hydrometer reading at that point to confirm your gravity is where it needs to be...... but, in general, under proper conditions, your beer is going to be done by this point (after 14 days). Bigger beers could take longer and require a secondary fermentation. Then transfer to bottling bucket, add priming sugar and bottle.

But, again, the ONLY way to really know is taking hydrometer readings and knowing that fermentation has ceased.

Thanks for the thorough answer. There is a brew shop in town, so I will try to get a hydrometer today. In the instructions, it says 4 to 6 days, or IF using a hydrometer, when the gravity remains at a constant figure below 1008 degrees.

I have never used a hydrometer (obviously), so what readings would indicate "bottle bombs", and what range would signify success? The numbers to me at this point are meaningless. That's why I'm posting in the Beginners forum.

FYI, this is a Munton's Premium Lager 40 pint beer kit.

 

[Shred]

Among all of the bottle bomb concerns you've seen above, a properly conditioned beer requires much longer before you bottle. Yeast creates diacetyl during fermentation. Diacetyl will leave behind an undesirable buttery flavor in your beer.

If left to condition at warmer temps (68-70F) after primary fermentation is complete the yeast will go back and clean up this byproduct. That means no less than a total of 3 weeks before bottling (2 to finish fermentation or as long as is necessary and AT LEAST a week to condition).

 

[Shred]

Thanks for the thorough answer. There is a brew shop in town, so I will try to get a hydrometer today. In the instructions, it says 4 to 6 days, or IF using a hydrometer, when the gravity remains at a constant figure below 1008 degrees.

I have never used a hydrometer (obviously), so what readings would indicate "bottle bombs", and what range would signify success? The numbers to me at this point are meaningless. That's why I'm posting in the Beginners forum.

FYI, this is a Munton's Premium Lager 40 pint beer kit.

The closer to 1.008 you are the safer you can feel. If it reads north of 1.015 I'd be concerned.

 

[stru]

A friend of mine, who doesn't take advice, did the same exact thing. Two weeks later his house was like a war zone. Bottle bombs are no joke.

 

[Braufessor]

Just a general estimation..... assuming you used the right amt. of priming sugar and there is no bacterial infection in the beer:
Under 1.012 - I would feel pretty safe
1.012-1.018 - I would expect overcarbonation, cautiously optimistic no bombs.
1.018+ - I would be worried about exploding bottles, and the higher it is, the more I would worry.

To be honest, I don't think you are going to get 1.008 gravity in an extract beer.

 

[worlddivides]

Thanks for the thorough answer. There is a brew shop in town, so I will try to get a hydrometer today. In the instructions, it says 4 to 6 days, or IF using a hydrometer, when the gravity remains at a constant figure below 1008 degrees.

That sounds like pretty crappy advice since a lot of beers will rarely finish below 1.010 (and thus won't get to 1.008 or lower no matter how long you wait). The normal advice is that you take 2-3 gravity readings over several days (when you're about ready to bottle) and if the gravity reading stays the same for more than 3 days, then the fermentation has probably stopped and it is safe to bottle.

 

[J187]

That sounds like pretty crappy advice since a lot of beers will rarely finish below 1.010 (and thus won't get to 1.008 or lower no matter how long you wait). The normal advice is that you take 2-3 gravity readings over several days (when you're about ready to bottle) and if the gravity reading stays the same for more than 3 days, then the fermentation has probably stopped and it is safe to bottle.

well in fairness, the instruction are for THAT beer, not a lot of other beers... so the beer is SUPPOSED to finish at that gravity. However, I agree with you! It's crappy advice to give it a number at all... gravity varies. Just a constant reading over three days, whatever it is, as long as it's within reason - if it's 1.018 for three days, that's a different story.

 

[jageorge72]

Just an update..... no exploding bottles here, but the beer is quite flat. I guess there's nothing that can be done at this point. So the fermentation must have finished like the directions said, but I didn't need to skimp on the priming sugar. Oh well..... learned some lessons here. Next batch will be better.

 

[QuercusMax]

You may need to let it sit another week or two before it will be fully carbonated. It's only been 10 days. I'd take a few bottles and put them in a warm-ish place (68-75 degrees F) for a week, then let them chill in your fridge for 2 days. You may find there's no problem at all.

 

[jageorge72]

I did notice there is a layer of something at the bottom of the bottles. Could it be the priming sugar?

 

[QuercusMax]

Most likely yeast and other sediment. You'll notice that in commercial bottle-conditioned or unfiltered beers as well. Next time you try a Bell's or Sierra Nevada, look for the thin layer of sediment at the bottom.

This is why you shouldn't drink your homebrew straight from the bottle - you should carefully decant it, otherwise you'll be slugging down a bunch of yeast. (You really shouldn't drink any beers from the bottle, as a glass is a much better serving vessel for numerous reasons, but that's another discussion.)

 

[WayFrae]

This is why you shouldn't drink your homebrew straight from the bottle - you should carefully decant it, otherwise you'll be slugging down a bunch of yeast.

+1, also because brewer's yeast is a natural laxative.