FC not cooling...

[ILMSTMF]

Thankfully, I don't have a batch fermenting.

Ashamed to admit that laziness has lead to leaving a used FV in FC for 2 months. Was planning to harvest the yeast so, I left it all in cold FC. Note, the heating wire was disconnected from the temp controller. Door was not open often at all so I assume the cold side would kick on as needed with a target temp of 1.5C

Anyway, I just went to check and controller is reading 21C............ The fridge light is on so I know the cold side control is functioning as it should. Just seems the compressor isn't cooling the FC.

• I have completely powered off the temp controller. I'll wait a day before trying to turn it back on.
• The FC shares the garage with clothes dryer. For the past week, the dryer has been running with the exhaust hose venting into garage (short version - repairman botched it last week and is coming to fix tomorrow). The garage doors have remained open while dryer is running. Walking in garage is not uncomfortable. A bit steamy at worst. This may be unrelated to fridge compressor taking a dump but figured I'd mention it.

I welcome any advice and thoughts, thank you!

 

[PCABrewing]

How old is the fridge?
Many older refrigerators (GE, Hotpoint etc..) have a defrost timer that sometimes stops working (sticks).
It prevents the compressor from running for a predetermined period to allow the evaporator coils to defrost.
Frequently giving it a spin with a screwdriver will make it remember it's job and start it working again.
The timer is located at the bottom of the fridge behind the front rail, and there is a hole for a screwdriver for diagnostic purposes.
This failure could match your symptoms and the fix is cheap/free.

 

[ILMSTMF]

How old is the fridge?

OLD.... Couldn't say! Was picked from the curb - someone previously used as a one tap kegerator.
It's a full size, single door fridge with freezer compartment at the top of it. Compartment has its own door (within the fridge, again - the exterior of the fridge is one tall door to access the inside).

Many older refrigerators (GE, Hotpoint etc..)

I don't even know the brand. Maybe Amana? Hopefully there's some label on it - will report back.

This failure could match your symptoms and the fix is cheap/free.

Let's hope so! I'm not mechanically inclined. I'll try to find what you're referring to, thanks very much!

 

[ILMSTMF]

Finally got around to this... Couldn't find the dial you referred to. Here are some photos including a diagram. I thought it might be the overload protector (which, I think, is the black rectangle). There's an empty hole on the top (see picture) but there is nothing on the other side of that port.

I watched this too, not sure if it applies to my fridge.





Anyway, I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks!

 

[ClaudiusB]

Thankfully, I don't have a batch fermenting.

Ashamed to admit that laziness has lead to leaving a used FV in FC for 2 months. Was planning to harvest the yeast so, I left it all in cold FC. Note, the heating wire was disconnected from the temp controller. Door was not open often at all so I assume the cold side would kick on as needed with a target temp of 1.5C

Anyway, I just went to check and controller is reading 21C............ The fridge light is on so I know the cold side control is functioning as it should. Just seems the compressor isn't cooling the FC.

• I have completely powered off the temp controller. I'll wait a day before trying to turn it back on.
• The FC shares the garage with clothes dryer. For the past week, the dryer has been running with the exhaust hose venting into garage (short version - repairman botched it last week and is coming to fix tomorrow). The garage doors have remained open while dryer is running. Walking in garage is not uncomfortable. A bit steamy at worst. This may be unrelated to fridge compressor taking a dump but figured I'd mention it.

I welcome any advice and thoughts, thank you!

1. If the refrigerator's thermostat is not bypassed, ensure it's turned to its max.
2. Open the black box and check the overload with a meter
3. Check the starting PTC with a meter, depending on the compressor between 4-10 Ohms.
My Heier's incubator PTC measures 5 Ohms cold.
3. Report back

 

[ILMSTMF]

1. If the refrigerator's thermostat is not bypassed, ensure it's turned to its max.

The cold dial inside is set to 7 out of 7.

2. Open the black box and check the overload with a meter
3. Check the starting PTC with a meter, depending on the compressor between 4-10 Ohms.

No idea how to do this lol

 

[ClaudiusB]

@ILMSTMF open the cover plate to the left as shown on the plate to expose the parts.

 

[ILMSTMF]

@ILMSTMF open the cover plate to the left as shown on the plate to expose the parts.

I don't have a meter... and if I did, I wouldn't know how to use it lol

 

[ClaudiusB]

"I don't have a meter... and if I did, I wouldn't know how to use it lol"
We can use a jumper wire if you feel comfortable. Are there any brewing buddies who could help?
You could purchase a replacement starting PTC resistor. They cost around $20.00 and only require you to remove the cover for the installation.

 

[ILMSTMF]

Are there any brewing buddies who could help?

I wish! Nobody local.

Alas, need to find the time to tinker with it. Free time coming at a premium these days...

 

[ILMSTMF]

@ILMSTMF open the cover plate to the left as shown on the plate to expose the parts.

Also @PCABrewing

I haven't brewed in a year!
Before I try that PTC replacement, here's the latest. With the fridge powered on, I checked the compressor which was hot to the touch. Not burning but notably warm. I tapped hit in various places with a hammer (old wive's tale maybe?) Left it overnight, fridge still not cooling. Is this useful information? Thank you!

 

[ClaudiusB]

Also @PCABrewing

I haven't brewed in a year!
Before I try that PTC replacement, here's the latest. With the fridge powered on, I checked the compressor which was hot to the touch. Not burning but notably warm. I tapped hit in various places with a hammer (old wive's tale maybe?) Left it overnight, fridge still not cooling. Is this useful information? Thank you!

The compressor will get warm with one winding continuously being energized. The PTC (positive temperature coefficient ) resistor is required to start the compressor with a high current. After a few seconds, the PTC's resistance increases because of self-heating, which lowers the current in the starting winding.

 

[ILMSTMF]

The compressor will get warm with one winding continuously being energized. The PTC (positive temperature coefficient ) resistor is required to start the compressor with a high current. After a few seconds, the PTC's resistance increases because of self-heating, which lowers the current in the starting winding.

Do you recommend I purchase a multimeter to check the ohms first or skip that and purchase the starting PTC resistor? Thank you!

 

[ILMSTMF]

-polite bump-

 

[Broken Crow]

Polite response; Given the amount of time that has passed over this thread, it's positive to see that you are determined and don't mind taking the time to do the research. While I get endlessly frustrated by folk who copied something they saw online without understanding and expect simple answers, you don't appear to fall in that category as you are asking if you should buy a multimeter....Here's the thing: If you don't already own one, then it's unlikely a simple "Try this" will solve your issue (at least not to your own full satisfaction. You have shown a desire to actually learn (a rare and admirable quality we don't see enough of online these days - Kudos!)
If you have the time, here's a site that explains pretty much everything you need, including links and at least starting points to look up anything that doesn't make immediate sense, though it's very well written and should arm you with all the knowledge to fully understand and solve the problem yourself;
https://www.refrigerationbasics.com/RBIII/rb1.htm
This is well meant and I get the sense that you'd enjoy it.... I hope I'm not coming off as a condesceding a**wipe and actually offering something of value.

 

[ClaudiusB]

Do you recommend I purchase a multimeter to check the ohms first or skip that and purchase the starting PTC resistor? Thank you!

A multimeter is a valuable tool for solving electrical problems around the house and in your brewery.
The failure mode of the two PTC modules I replaced over the years was internal arcing between the PTC disks and contacts.
If your module opens up, look for any signs of arcing and try a temporary cleaning fix.
I would replace the PTC module based on the two problems I had with the same symptoms.