• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

FastFerment conical fermenter??????

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Another great idea! Wow. I am going to do this the next time I rack out of the fermenter into a keg. Thanks! So basically, you put a blanket of CO2 from purging the keg into the fermenter before racking into the keg?

Here's what I do
Lift fermenter above keg.
Fill clean keg with starsan. Seat lid. Jumper liquid post to another keg. Push starsan out with co2. Pressurize to 15psi or so. Invert keg, leaning towards gas post. Depress gas poppet to get out remaining star San(I trim my gas dip tube to be flush with the keg). Add a couple more psi if I fully emptied it. Attach the hose I will use to transfer beer to keg, letting the pressure in the keg flush out the o2/air. Attach the hose to fermentor out. Run a second hose from gas post to return in fermentor(high side "sample" port in your case). You could also just get a barb elbow and replace the airlock with it. They are sold pretty cheap at the big box stores, near the brass and compression plumbing fittings.
Open fermentor valve. Beer goes in, displacing the co2 in the keg and putting it back in the fermentor, instead of air being sucked in. Once the keg is nearly full, tilt it a little to put the gas post at the highest level, allowing that extra pint to fit in. I then just open the lid clamp and seat the lid with 30 psi, then close the clamp. You don't want your lid poorly seated if you are naturally carbing.
This is a fully closed loop. The only air making it in anywhere is the little bit in the gas hose, which is negligible and can be purged if you desire. You can also unseat the liquid hose QD(when you first purge it) and attach the gas hose to purge it, then reattach the liquid QD.
If you want to prime/naturally carb in the keg, just add your priming solution to the fermentor, through the bung hole with a funnel beforehand. Doing so will also allow you to bottle directly from the keg immediately after transfer or, you can bottle any remaining beer directly from the fermentor after the keg is full.
Taking it a step further, when I bottle from a primed keg, I under prime and immediately force carb a little. That way, when I bottle, there is a little bit of co2 in the beer and it bubbles up enough to fill the headspace.

This method gets 99% of the air out of the keg, while using less co2 than purging a keg at 15psi or so multiple times.

Now, I will note that I do this with a Speidel. When I'm doing this, there is no airlock present as it is replaced with the gas return from the keg. If you are using a second spigot to return the gas to the fermentor, you could possibly have suckback occur. I don't think that it is likely, but it could happen. If that is the fact, go with replacing the airlock with a properly sized barb or price of tubing connected to the gas hose.
Hope that all makes sense...
 
My question is in regards to that air bubble that's created when changing out the collection ball after primary fermentation. Since there is always some residual yeast stuck to the cone leading to the collection ball, is there any concern with the air bubble kicking that dead yeast back up and mixing with the beer? I'm noticing a "yeast bite" every time I ferment in my FF. I have an older model without a sampling port, so I've even racked from the top to avoid any residual yeast and still getting this off flavour and aroma.
 
My question is in regards to that air bubble that's created when changing out the collection ball after primary fermentation. Since there is always some residual yeast stuck to the cone leading to the collection ball, is there any concern with the air bubble kicking that dead yeast back up and mixing with the beer? I'm noticing a "yeast bite" every time I ferment in my FF. I have an older model without a sampling port, so I've even racked from the top to avoid any residual yeast and still getting this off flavour and aroma.


I don't think that is your problem. I've never had the problem and I keg from the bottom of the fast ferment. My process, I empty the ball two days before I plan on kegging, reattach and give anything clinging to the walls a chance to fall into the ball, letting gravity do it's part. A lot of people just drop the ball and bottle or keg at the same time.
 
Check out a way that I came up with to rack from the fastferment into the keg with minimal oxygen exposure. I used tubing attached to a gas disconnect as my blow off tube (had a carbonation cap connected to the disconnect going into some sanitizer). I purged a keg with co2, then racked into the keg straight through the dip tube using the liquid disconnect, and co2 is sucked back into the fermenter from the keg through the tubing that was originally my blow off tube. I call it a closed loop system. I am sure people have done this before, but check it out!

https://youtu.be/RVilNE_ewo0
 
Check out a way that I came up with to rack from the fastferment into the keg with minimal oxygen exposure. I used tubing attached to a gas disconnect as my blow off tube (had a carbonation cap connected to the disconnect going into some sanitizer). I purged a keg with co2, then racked into the keg straight through the dip tube using the liquid disconnect, and co2 is sucked back into the fermenter from the keg through the tubing that was originally my blow off tube. I call it a closed loop system. I am sure people have done this before, but check it out!

https://youtu.be/RVilNE_ewo0

Thanks for sharing this video! I am going to have to try that next time.

What size tubing did you use for both ends?
 
Thanks for sharing this video! I am going to have to try that next time.

What size tubing did you use for both ends?

No problem!! I am glad to share it! I used 3/16'' tubing as the tube going from gas disconnect into the top of the fermenter and I used 5/16'' going from the bottom of the fermenter to the liquid disconnect (5/16'' is just big enough to fit on the tubing adapter on the bottom of the fast ferment when racking). :mug:
 
So..... I have been using my FastFerment for about a year and a half. I am wondering if anyone has done the following: I am Brewing Monday. I plan on using the yeast cake that has settled out of a NE IPA. Has anyone racked the beer via siphon out of the fastferment and into their keg or secondary and the put a new wort on the yeast cake that has dropped into the collection ball? I It just seems so compacted and I wonder if there would be a problem. I plan on throwing a barelywine on top of cake.... compacted in the collection ball. I don't want to wash the yeast, just drop in the new beer. Anyone have experience with this?
 
So..... I have been using my FastFerment for about a year and a half. I am wondering if anyone has done the following: I am Brewing Monday. I plan on using the yeast cake that has settled out of a NE IPA. Has anyone racked the beer via siphon out of the fastferment and into their keg or secondary and the put a new wort on the yeast cake that has dropped into the collection ball? I It just seems so compacted and I wonder if there would be a problem. I plan on throwing a barelywine on top of cake.... compacted in the collection ball. I don't want to wash the yeast, just drop in the new beer. Anyone have experience with this?

I have taken a collection ball full of yeast cake from a previous batch and dumped about 1/3 of the amount into a new wort batch and had great results.
So if you were planning on leaving the yeast cake in the CB and just adding a new batch of wort on top, I would change your plan slightly.
I would close the valve and remove the CB. Rack the new batch of wort into the FF. Then dump about 1/4 to 1/3 of the yeast cake from the CB into the wort and let sit for 24-36 hours. You should start to see activity already.
Install a nice empty, clean, sanitized CB and open value.
Assuming the yeast cake was stored cool, you should be pleased with the results.
Report back how it goes.
 
I have taken a collection ball full of yeast cake from a previous batch and dumped about 1/3 of the amount into a new wort batch and had great results.
So if you were planning on leaving the yeast cake in the CB and just adding a new batch of wort on top, I would change your plan slightly.
I would close the valve and remove the CB. Rack the new batch of wort into the FF. Then dump about 1/4 to 1/3 of the yeast cake from the CB into the wort and let sit for 24-36 hours. You should start to see activity already.
Install a nice empty, clean, sanitized CB and open value.
Assuming the yeast cake was stored cool, you should be pleased with the results.
Report back how it goes.

That actually was option B. The current batch is at mid 60's as it is dry hopping now. I have an extra CB which would allow me to do this. I was considering taking the current CB, inverting it into a large mason jar then when I am racking the new wort, add a couple of ounces to the jar, stir then add to the FF...
I will indeed report back. Thanks.
Anyone just add the new wort to the yeast compacted in the CB?
 
Check out a way that I came up with to rack from the fastferment into the keg with minimal oxygen exposure. I used tubing attached to a gas disconnect as my blow off tube (had a carbonation cap connected to the disconnect going into some sanitizer). I purged a keg with co2, then racked into the keg straight through the dip tube using the liquid disconnect, and co2 is sucked back into the fermenter from the keg through the tubing that was originally my blow off tube. I call it a closed loop system. I am sure people have done this before, but check it out!

https://youtu.be/RVilNE_ewo0

Nice, going to have to try that.
 
No problem!! I am glad to share it! I used 3/16'' tubing as the tube going from gas disconnect into the top of the fermenter and I used 5/16'' going from the bottom of the fermenter to the liquid disconnect (5/16'' is just big enough to fit on the tubing adapter on the bottom of the fast ferment when racking). :mug:

bought everything to set this up. Going to be tough getting that Fastferment nosel into that 5/16 tube. I assume you soften the tube with some boiling water?
 
So question for all you closed system no oxygen guys. How do you check on you beer in the fastferment? How are you looking in and knowing your beer does not have an infection? I wish they would make a clear top, so you could look down in. I've asked them about that a couple of times.
 
So question for all you closed system no oxygen guys. How do you check on you beer in the fastferment? How are you looking in and knowing your beer does not have an infection? I wish they would make a clear top, so you could look down in. I've asked them about that a couple of times.


I'm still a newb (only about 5 batches since Christmas) but I've removed the lid on more than one occasion on more than one batch to check and never had an issue. Oxygen is lighter than the C02 in the FF. As long as you're not churning things around and put the lid back on promptly, shouldn't be an issue.
Simply my very positive experience with my FF
 
Hi, first post and new to brewing. Few comments on Fastferment conical and racking.

I am now on my second two-can brew with some ambition to move to more advanced recipes when I have worked out the basics. Few comments having done some recent research and as a beginner.

The build quality of the Fastferment was actually quite good - I suspect that it has improved somewhat over the last few years since its inception as many of the poor build quality comments seem to be some time ago.

The threads do need PTFE tape to seal correctly, but I had no issues getting it all water tight first time.

It is very easy to clean and sterilise, does ferment quickly and allows for a longer 'secondary'.

I purchased the sample tap which is invaluable, but no other accessories. I ended up getting a second-hand stool from ebay (GBP8) and cutting a hole in it - works perfectly, easy to do, looks ok and plenty of old stools on ebay. (see pictures).

Additionally I have been looking at O2 less racking which is very easy with the fastferment... I ran a test by purging lines and King Keg barrel with CO2 and running the beer from the Fastferment into the tap of the King Keg - this is not closed loop with air allowed through both caps, but with some hose fittings and ball valves from ebay (~GBP10 total) could be made so by running a line from the lid of the King Keg to the lid of the FastFerment - that is the next experiment.

video: https://youtu.be/rqunN_4G5rM

1497898009789.jpg
 
I'm still a newb (only about 5 batches since Christmas) but I've removed the lid on more than one occasion on more than one batch to check and never had an issue. Oxygen is lighter than the C02 in the FF. As long as you're not churning things around and put the lid back on promptly, shouldn't be an issue.
Simply my very positive experience with my FF







I just carefully remove the lid. There is a layer of CO2 on top of the beer. CO2 is heavier than Oxygen, so it separates the beer from the oxygen.

Not true. If it was, we would walk around in co2 and the oxygen would float to the atmosphere.
Or, at minimum, I would suffocate if I were laying on the floor in a room with no draft.
Gasses mix with even the slightest disturbance.
Example, a fart in a room with no draft doesn't stay in one place.

I'm curious if FF are marketing this disinformation because it keeps coming up in this tread.
 
Not true. If it was, we would walk around in co2 and the oxygen would float to the atmosphere.
Or, at minimum, I would suffocate if I were laying on the floor in a room with no draft.
Gasses mix with even the slightest disturbance.
Example, a fart in a room with no draft doesn't stay in one place.

I'm curious if FF are marketing this disinformation because it keeps coming up in this tread.

Great example! LOL
 
Not true. If it was, we would walk around in co2 and the oxygen would float to the atmosphere.
Or, at minimum, I would suffocate if I were laying on the floor in a room with no draft.
Gasses mix with even the slightest disturbance.
Example, a fart in a room with no draft doesn't stay in one place.

I'm curious if FF are marketing this disinformation because it keeps coming up in this tread.


This is mostly true, though worth noting that an atmosphere / weather system represents a considerable disturbance.

CO2 / Air in a barrel is analogous to oil and water in a jar - it is true that the CO2 will settle and form a layer over the beer.

This effect is evidenced if you ever visit a distillery - the washbacks / mashtuns are always in rooms with raised walkways - it is very dangerous to be walking around on the ground in case of a CO2 build up, which would sink to the floor and could form a layer deep enough to suffocate a person.

I would imagine if one very carefully stirred from the top of a barrel one could limit, but not totally prevent, O2 exposure in the barrel.
 
700ml of air (which is what the collection ball would contain unless you are in a complete O2 environment) contains ~147ml (21%) of oxygen and ~546ml of nitrogen that would be be mixing with (if your headspace hasn't been disturbed) ~9.5L of CO2.

If it miraculously mixed instantaneously with your headspace as it arrived, that headspace would now contain ~1.5% oxygen, which would be pushed out rather quickly as that's how the headspace is developed to begin with unless you are topping with CO2 before sealing the FF.

Of course, gasses don't mix instantaneously. If they did, when you farted, everyone in the room would smell it at the same time.

Besides, don't wineries sparge with nitrogen to get the O2 out?

I don't feel that FastBrewing is misrepresenting the almost nil chance of oxygen spoilage when switching the ball out, and they do point out that some fill the ball with distilled water or CO2 when switching if they do feel it is a risk. I'll bet there's a lot of great bottles of beer that have been consumed made from the FF with that small O2 bubble having been in there though.
 
700ml of air (which is what the collection ball would contain unless you are in a complete O2 environment) contains ~147ml (21%) of oxygen and ~546ml of nitrogen that would be be mixing with (if your headspace hasn't been disturbed) ~9.5L of CO2.

If it miraculously mixed instantaneously with your headspace as it arrived, that headspace would now contain ~1.5% oxygen, which would be pushed out rather quickly as that's how the headspace is developed to begin with unless you are topping with CO2 before sealing the FF.

Of course, gasses don't mix instantaneously. If they did, when you farted, everyone in the room would smell it at the same time.

Besides, don't wineries sparge with nitrogen to get the O2 out?

I don't feel that FastBrewing is misrepresenting the almost nil chance of oxygen spoilage when switching the ball out, and they do point out that some fill the ball with distilled water or CO2 when switching if they do feel it is a risk. I'll bet there's a lot of great bottles of beer that have been consumed made from the FF with that small O2 bubble having been in there though.

Agreed. I have 25+ batches through mine and have never had one be oxygenated because of this.
 
Wondering if anyone knows the thermowell size. Want to order a new probe for the stc 1000 from auber instruments but have no idea which one to get.
 
I have 2 to make starters in for my 20 gallon batches...love them. Only thing, don't tighten the couplings too tight...plastic strips easy and use way more tape than they suggest.
 
How have the members here dealt with the issue of the lid gaskets not staying in place, and occasionally falling into the beer. I sanitize the gaskets so it's not a contamination problem, but the lids don't seal very well. I have tried the original flat, the flat silicone, and now the round gaskets, and none of them are reliable.
 
I have the older silicon one, and while it would seal, it would only seal if the lid was on really tight, so tight that I couldn't get the cover off without some persuasion from a hammer.

So now I use some cheap dollar store craft foam that is about 2mm or so thick, place the silicon one in first and then the craft foam one, and it seals every time, and isn't a PITA to get the cover back off.
 
I have now used both styles. The flat silicone and the new round hollow one. I just take some time to make sure the seal is seated under the threads of the lid all the way around. I have never had an issue with them falling into my beer.
I do like the new round gasket better. Once I make sure it is seated nicely it really takes quite a bit to get it to pop out. It also seals nicer and the lid comes off easier.
I use a double layer of the flat gaskets, it seals nicely. I must say I have never had to use a hammer to remove the lid. A few swear words yes, hammer no.
 
With the flat silicon one, it sealed the cover on so tight that I couldn't get it off. Had no choice. The flat silicon fits into the cover well, but plastic on silicon on plastic and it is hard to remove.

It doubled up with the craft foam, works wonders. Silcon seals the fermenter, but with the foam between it and the top of the fermenter, the cover doesn't stick. Still tight, and still sealed. Been using Conan yeast all summer and it ferments like a biotch, bubbled the air lock so hard had to refill it with starsan!
 
Back
Top