FastFerment conical fermenter??????

[jbb3]

Anyone purchasing the new 14 gallon fastferment? I may pick it up soon.

I have been thinking about making the leap to 10 gal batches so the 14 gal FF would fit right into that plan. I still have to work through a keggle conversion so not quite ready yet.
Report back if you beat me to the punch.

 

[elreplica]

I have been thinking about making the leap to 10 gal batches so the 14 gal FF would fit right into that plan. I still have to work through a keggle conversion so not quite ready yet.
Report back if you beat me to the punch.

" Do it! Do it! What are you waiting for?" (In my best Awnie Dutch Schaefer voiceover)

 

[Fast_Rack]

@shelbymedic - Email me at [email protected] if you need anything answered specifically.

@elreplica - I grew up in Grand Lake, NS and my grandfather had a cottage in Bridgewater


Cheers Guys!

 

[elreplica]

@shelbymedic - Email me at [email protected] if you need anything answered specifically.



@elreplica - I grew up in Grand Lake, NS and my grandfather had a cottage in Bridgewater





Cheers Guys!

Hey Mitch, remember you sharing that with me back when you were prereleasing the fast ferments...I bought two with all the fixings before they went public...

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

This may have been covered in one of the 111 pages at some point (I did read about 105 pages a while back) but here we go: have any of you (with a sampling port installed) tried dry hopping bagless in the fermenter, crashed it, then racked out of the sampling port? This would be realistically the closest way to mimic a professional dry hop at a brewery in a nice SS conical. I want to try it with the pale ale im going to make next.

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

Looks like my 2.5 year old FF gave up the ghost. Somehow a small crack developed just below the mounting point. Lost almost 1/2 gal of brew, before SWMBO discovered it. The beer is fine but the FF is finished.

 

[pshankstar]

Looks like my 2.5 year old FF gave up the ghost. Somehow a small crack developed just below the mounting point. Lost almost 1/2 gal of brew, before SWMBO discovered it. The beer is fine but the FF is finished.

Wow that really stinks! Do you have any idea what may have caused the crack? I'll make sure to look mine over. I have had mine for two years come this June.

Out of curiosity it is above or below the mounting bolt? I wonder if they get weak after X number of batches? Also how many batches did you get with it?

Again I'm sorry to hear this happened but I'm glad you were able it catch it before you lost the entire brew.

 

[elreplica]

Looks like my 2.5 year old FF gave up the ghost. Somehow a small crack developed just below the mounting point. Lost almost 1/2 gal of brew, before SWMBO discovered it. The beer is fine but the FF is finished.

You have be careful not to overtighten those mounting grommets. In order to use it now you could JB Weld or epoxy it and either get or make a FF stand. I hung my two on the wall but imagine that it would stress those mounts over time.

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

You have be careful not to overtighten those mounting grommets. In order to use it now you could JB Weld or epoxy it and either get or make a FF stand. I hung my two on the wall but imagine that it would stress those mounts over time.

Do you have any idea what may have caused the crack?

Out of curiosity it is above or below the mounting bolt? How many batches did you get with it?

The crack was below the mounting bolt.
No idea what caused the crack. I suspect elreplica may be right, although I could not say for sure. Perhaps sideways stress from moving my rolling stand might be the issue. Perhaps the sideways stress of opening the FF against the silicone seals. Could be just dumb luck.
I have brewed 28 batches since Jan of 16, so 14 batches, is all I have record of.

No JB weld or epoxy, no thanks. I just ordered another one.

 

[elreplica]

The crack was below the mounting bolt.

No idea what caused the crack. I suspect elreplica may be right, although I could not say for sure. Perhaps sideways stress from moving my rolling stand might be the issue. Perhaps the sideways stress of opening the FF against the silicone seals. Could be just dumb luck.

I have brewed 28 batches since Jan of 16, so 14 batches, is all I have record of.



No JB weld or epoxy, no thanks. I just ordered another one.

Well..you've got two...just like me...looking at the bright side!

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

So I received my new FF today.
They are the next generation from my previous ones. I have to hand it to the folks at FF, they are listening and improving their product.
I like the new lid design. The little grooves molded into it seem to make it easier to grip when opening or tightening. I wish I could get one for my othe r old one.
The new, smaller diameter hose, attachment and clip are nice!
The clip actually will stop the flow. I have always been a bit anxious about the old hose introducing too much air. Stopping the flow, was not going to happen with the old clip and hose. It also will not work with the standard bottle fillers without some jury rigging. I will also have to get a bit longer hose to reach the bottom of my keg. I don't care, I keg and I am excited to try the new set up.
Jury's still out on the new round gasket. One thing for sure, it doesn't fall out. I put it in place and shook the heck out of the lid and it stayed in place.
I have had no real issues with the doubled up flat silicone gaskets I currently use.
It also appears that they have left a wider lip on the mouth so things will seal better. Might be just my imagination.
Overall, I like the improvements I see. As they say, the proof is in the pudding I mean, brewing.

Insert the usual disclaimers here; unsolicited, no affiliation, ya dee yah.

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

So I received my new FF today.
They are the next generation from my previous ones. I have to hand it to the folks at FF, they are listening and improving their product.
I like the new lid design. The little grooves molded into it seem to make it easier to grip when opening or tightening. I wish I could get one for my othe r old one.
The new, smaller diameter hose, attachment and clip are nice!
The clip actually will stop the flow. I have always been a bit anxious about the old hose introducing too much air. Stopping the flow, was not going to happen with the old clip and hose. It also will not work with the standard bottle fillers without some jury rigging. I will also have to get a bit longer hose to reach the bottom of my keg. I don't care, I keg and I am excited to try the new set up.
Jury's still out on the new round gasket. One thing for sure, it doesn't fall out. I put it in place and shook the heck out of the lid and it stayed in place.
I have had no real issues with the doubled up flat silicone gaskets I currently use.
It also appears that they have left a wider lip on the mouth so things will seal better. Might be just my imagination.
Overall, I like the improvements I see. As they say, the proof is in the pudding I mean, brewing.

Insert the usual disclaimers here; unsolicited, no affiliation, ya dee yah.

So the bottle fill attachment is now a 3/8" fitting instead of the 1/2"? Wonder if they would just sell me the fitting for mine, as I have found that the 1/2" just fills bottles too fast (even with a spring loaded bottle filler wands), and I end up getting too much foam in the bottle, not to mention a larger head space from the larger displacement of the 1/2" bottle filler.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

A solution to where we can dry hop bagless in our Fastferment Conicals:

our Fastferment conicals have a nice collection ball at the bottom that collects all the yeast and trub into the ball which works perfectly....If we don't dry hop bagless into it. The pellets expand and clog the 1 inch opening at the bottom of the conical, leaving wasted beer in the collection ball. My resolution is to not use the collection ball with beers that I plan to dry hop. Without the collection ball at the bottom, the yeast, trub, and hops will compact at the bottom and I will rack out of the sampling port that I have installed on the side of the conical. Leaving the particulate matter in the fermenter allows it to eventually compact together with time (and while cold crashing), which limits the beer that I would be wasting by dropping the trub, yeast and hops earlier in the process. As long as the sediment stays below the sampling port, after cold crashing which compacts the sediment, I can easily rack everything except the very small amount of beer that is sitting on top of the sediment. the compacted sediment will displace the beer above the sediment, leaving less wasted beer in the end. Having a racking arm in other conicals helps as you can move it around to choose where you want to drain the beer from within the conical. There is limited information on dry hopping freely (without mesh bags) in the fast ferment on here, so I believe this will be a decent method. On top of racking from the port, I am connecting a bouncer inline filter which should catch any hop sediment that I may drain out of the fermenter.

I have attached a picture below, which is at about 18 hours of cold crashing. I will cold crash for 72 hours. I have also added gelatin, as a fining agent. I will post a video of the racking process when it is time. This is my first time attempting this method, as I usually just bag the hops. I should include that I dry hopped with 3 ounces of citra into this nice, citra pale ale that I am looking forward to. 3 ounces of dry hops looks to be good for staying below the racking port level (along with the yeast and trub).

 

[Jwin]

Here's an idea(I don't own a FF, happy Speidel owner)
Many mention taping on the sides to get the sediment/hops to drop. Why not drop a large, flat stirbar into the fermentor and get a decent size neodymium magnet and use the stir bar to "scrub" the sides of the fermentor from the outside? You could put the stir bar in when you pitch and just stick the magnet to it and rest it on the side until ready to crash, or a day or so before dumping the trub.
May take some experiments to get the right magnet to make sure the stir bar lays flat, instead of standing on it's end.
This may help settle hop debris as well.
Just a thought...

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Here's an idea(I don't own a FF, happy Speidel owner)
Many mention taping on the sides to get the sediment/hops to drop. Why not drop a large, flat stirbar into the fermentor and get a decent size neodymium magnet and use the stir bar to "scrub" the sides of the fermentor from the outside? You could put the stir bar in when you pitch and just stick the magnet to it and rest it on the side until ready to crash, or a day or so before dumping the trub.
May take some experiments to get the right magnet to make sure the stir bar lays flat, instead of standing on it's end.
This may help settle hop debris as well.
Just a thought...

I like your idea! There is something similar for fish tanks to clean the inside wall of the glass. My only concern would be possibly scratching the plastic on the inside of the conical which would later increase chances of infection. Of course if the stir bar is softer than the material that the conical is made out of, it should not scratch. Will have to experiment with it. Very innovative idea.

Ok. I just tested your idea inside a plastic bucket with water and I think this is going to work! I think i may actually connect the ball and put the magnet in now to get all the debris out so I can rack normally. I think ill still use the inline bouncer filter to catch any leftover hop debris just in case. Cheers!

View attachment trim.57365640-6235-4E02-808E-CEE162D23D2D.MOV

 

[Jwin]

I can't tell by the video, but I would be sure to use a stir bar that is flat, without the rib/dimple in the center.
Also, using the ball at the end of fermentation is a bad idea in my opinion. I don't think it's what it is meant for. It's good to do it at 2-24 hours(once for trub, then reconnect to harvest yeast). Using it at the end of fermentation introduces a lot of o2. Would probably be better off just opening the valve and dumping the trub into a Tupperware or bucket or something. That way, you avoid the big bubble going up through the beer. Conversely, you sck oxygen into the top, but that's still better than the bubble through the beer.
A good strong magnet would hold the bar better as well, lowering the chances of you losing it in the ball valve. If it hits the valve, i bet you won't get it out without a strong magnet. My guess is that when you drop it in, it would go straight to the valve anyway.
I don't think scratching should be a concern with any stir bar. Should be pretty rounded and you'd have to use a large electromagnet to cause enough friction for it to be an issue.


A further thought. One could potentially rig up a large bar and a stirplate like mechanism to mix your priming solution into the beer. Not so sure how well it would work, since it's a nonflat surface, but would be cool to see.

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

I can't tell by the video, but I would be sure to use a stir bar that is flat, without the rib/dimple in the center.
Also, using the ball at the end of fermentation is a bad idea in my opinion. I don't think it's what it is meant for. It's good to do it at 2-24 hours(once for trub, then reconnect to harvest yeast). Using it at the end of fermentation introduces a lot of o2. Would probably be better off just opening the valve and dumping the trub into a Tupperware or bucket or something. That way, you avoid the big bubble going up through the beer. Conversely, you sck oxygen into the top, but that's still better than the bubble through the beer.
A good strong magnet would hold the bar better as well, lowering the chances of you losing it in the ball valve. If it hits the valve, i bet you won't get it out without a strong magnet. My guess is that when you drop it in, it would go straight to the valve anyway.
I don't think scratching should be a concern with any stir bar. Should be pretty rounded and you'd have to use a large electromagnet to cause enough friction for it to be an issue.


A further thought. One could potentially rig up a large bar and a stirplate like mechanism to mix your priming solution into the beer. Not so sure how well it would work, since it's a nonflat surface, but would be cool to see.

I just made a video of your idea and I am trying it on this batch. I have attached the URL below. Thanks for the awesome idea. with the collection ball, it is big enough to where you should only have to change it once if you are dry hopping. I do not change out the collection ball at all without dry hopping, as the trub and yeast fill up 1 collection ball and the rest of the beer is crystal clear (this may differ with others who have different systems and brewing techniques. With dry hopping, you would have to change out the ball once and yes, a huge oxygen bubble comes through from the collection ball up through the top of the beer and out of the top. oxygen exposure was my biggest worry with the fastferment but after reading this entire forum and consulting with the company that makes the product, the oxygen bubble that comes up through the beer is does not do anything noticeable to your product. it is in contact with the beer for about 1 second and it is in the form of a bubble that does not disperse throughout the beer but instead goes straight to the surface of the beer. When this occurs, the air lock immedeatly starts bubbling (I use a blow off tube) which confirms that oxygen is getting pushed out as soon as it goes in (oxygen is lighter than co2).

https://youtu.be/XmMn2F9IC9Y

 

[Jwin]

https://youtu.be/XmMn2F9IC9Y[/url]

True, but not.
I would advise not opening the valve until you are ready to bottle. That way, any o2 pickup will hopefully be taken care of by the bottle conditioning.
The result of the bubble is just room air mixing with the co2 in the fermentor. That mixture is what leaves the airlock.

Is there any reason why you couldn't dump the trub at full krausen, then reattach and open the ball valve and use that for hops? That way, any added o2 is scrubbed by the active fermentation.

Also, a stronger magnet on the outside may help you jump the stand. I have a neodymium magnet that is about the size of a stack of 6 or 7 dimes that will grab my stir bar through a wood table from a half foot away. Check Amazon. They're pretty cheap.

Not trying to nitpick here or anything. It's just that, cold side o2 control made the single biggest improvement to my hoppy beers, especially in shelf life. I have IPAs that sit in kegs for a few months and still taste great. Six weeks used to be about the max before I went OCD about cold side o2. It hasn't been much financial investment either. It's all about process. I now close loop transfer with fully purged kegs and lines. Huge impact.
If I sent half a cubic foot of air through my finished beer, I might cry a little. Cheers

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

A solution to where we can dry hop bagless in our Fastferment Conicals:

our Fastferment conicals have a nice collection ball at the bottom that collects all the yeast and trub into the ball which works perfectly....If we don't dry hop bagless into it. The pellets expand and clog the 1 inch opening at the bottom of the conical, leaving wasted beer in the collection ball. My resolution is to not use the collection ball with beers that I plan to dry hop. Without the collection ball at the bottom, the yeast, trub, and hops will compact at the bottom and I will rack out of the sampling port that I have installed on the side of the conical. Leaving the particulate matter in the fermenter allows it to eventually compact together with time (and while cold crashing), which limits the beer that I would be wasting by dropping the trub, yeast and hops earlier in the process. As long as the sediment stays below the sampling port, after cold crashing which compacts the sediment, I can easily rack everything except the very small amount of beer that is sitting on top of the sediment. the compacted sediment will displace the beer above the sediment, leaving less wasted beer in the end. Having a racking arm in other conicals helps as you can move it around to choose where you want to drain the beer from within the conical. There is limited information on dry hopping freely (without mesh bags) in the fast ferment on here, so I believe this will be a decent method. On top of racking from the port, I am connecting a bouncer inline filter which should catch any hop sediment that I may drain out of the fermenter.

I have attached a picture below, which is at about 18 hours of cold crashing. I will cold crash for 72 hours. I have also added gelatin, as a fining agent. I will post a video of the racking process when it is time. This is my first time attempting this method, as I usually just bag the hops. I should include that I dry hopped with 3 ounces of citra into this nice, citra pale ale that I am looking forward to. 3 ounces of dry hops looks to be good for staying below the racking port level (along with the yeast and trub).

Dry hopping is a breeze, I just use muslin bags that came with beer kits from OBK. Put the hops in the bag, tie the top tight so they don't escape when they break down, and viola.

I do want to get this however.

Slides in the mouth, is about the height of the FF, so should hold more than you would ever need to dry hop. 19" High, 4" diameter

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

I can't tell by the video, but I would be sure to use a stir bar that is flat, without the rib/dimple in the center.
Also, using the ball at the end of fermentation is a bad idea in my opinion. I don't think it's what it is meant for. It's good to do it at 2-24 hours(once for trub, then reconnect to harvest yeast). Using it at the end of fermentation introduces a lot of o2. Would probably be better off just opening the valve and dumping the trub into a Tupperware or bucket or something. That way, you avoid the big bubble going up through the beer. Conversely, you sck oxygen into the top, but that's still better than the bubble through the beer.
A good strong magnet would hold the bar better as well, lowering the chances of you losing it in the ball valve. If it hits the valve, i bet you won't get it out without a strong magnet. My guess is that when you drop it in, it would go straight to the valve anyway.
I don't think scratching should be a concern with any stir bar. Should be pretty rounded and you'd have to use a large electromagnet to cause enough friction for it to be an issue.


A further thought. One could potentially rig up a large bar and a stirplate like mechanism to mix your priming solution into the beer. Not so sure how well it would work, since it's a nonflat surface, but would be cool to see.

What little bit of air that is in an empty ball wouldn't do anything to your beer. It flows up through and the bulk of it goes out the air lock. Hasn't done anything bad to my batches.

 

[Jwin]

What little bit of air that is in an empty ball wouldn't do anything to your beer. It flows up through and the bulk of it goes out the air lock. Hasn't done anything bad to my batches.

I just don't get this thinking that it leaves the airlock...
If I fart in the shower and leave the door cracked, my fart doesn't leave the shower. If your FF was 95+% full of beer, I get it. But it's not.
Ill leave it there. Not trying to troll...

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

O2 is lighter than CO2.

While some CO2 will get pushed out through the airlock, the bulk of the O2 from the ball is going out through the airlock, and residual gets pushed out from CO2 gassing off of the beer, whatever O2 left, being lighter, it gets pushed out.

I have put 15+ batches through my FF, and what little air from an empty ball gets pushed up through the solution, doesn't effect the beer any, not that I have experienced anyway.

 

[Jwin]

(oxygen is lighter than co2).

https://youtu.be/XmMn2F9IC9Y

vs.

O2 is heavier than CO2.

While some CO2 will get pushed out through the airlock, the bulk of the O2 from the ball is going out through the airlock, and residual gets pushed out from CO2 gassing off of the beer, whatever O2 left, being lighter, it gets pushed out.

I have put 15+ batches through my FF, and what little air from an empty ball gets pushed up through the solution, doesn't effect the beer any, not that I have experienced anyway.

That's not how gases work. If it were, we would suffocate or burst into flames. Gases mix.
<B>I'm not debating the fact that anyone can make good beer.</b> I just hate the concept that the o2 magically exits the airlock, because it doesn't. If the manufacturer told you that, it's snakeoil. Gases mix almost instantly. The whole thought of the "co2 blanket" has been disproven time and again. There's a reason brewers purge kegs and breweries have VERY tight cold side o2 control. Any benefit of off gassing is offset by the suckback of cold crashing.
IMHO, the best method post fermentation would be to rig up something to feed co2 into the fermentor and open the valve, without the ball, to dump the yeast. Displacing the trub with co2. Then, feed it co2 for the coldcrash suckback.
See those who transfer and cold crash under co2. All for good reason.
Now, if your kegs/bottles only last a couple weeks, it doesn't matter nearly as much as something aged for months.
Anyway, I've said my part. I hope you cats read into it and don't take it personally. Then again, if your happy where you are, I raise a pint to you! Happy brewing!

 

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

Yeah, I wrote that backwards. Explanation is correct, just the initial statement is backwards. O2 is lighter than CO2

That is true about breweries purging kegs and such with CO2 and pushing beer from fermentor to brite tank with CO2.....but then they are also dealing with much larger volumes than in a FF ball. Even a small corny keg at 5+gallons is much larger than the 700ml ball on a FF.

Not enough to worry about. Some purge the ball with CO2 before reattaching. I don't have that ability since I don't keg and bottle everything, hence no CO2 source.

And as I said...have been doing it since I have gotten the FF, to no ill effect, 15+batches through, pretty sure I would have detected any oxygenation by now.

 

[Dade0]

I have a Cuisipro Magnetic Spot Scrubber for getting to spots on carboys. Same premise check it out. $10

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

I have a Cuisipro Magnetic Spot Scrubber for getting to spots on carboys. Same premise check it out. $10

This is definitely an ideal product! Is the silicone scrubber food safe silicone that could soak in the fermenter for a couple weeks without leaching? An alternative way to dry hop (the way the I actually used and like better) is to just not use the collection ball and to rack out of the sampling port. I dry hopped with three ounces of citra (as I mentioned in a previous post), and with the yeast and trub all together, it was still an Inch below the racking port. Using the Bouncer Inline Filter when racking out of the sampling port helps catch any hop bits that may still be freely floating. I actually made a video of me doing this. My beer is super clear in my keg with no hop debris. BTW I don't work for Bouncer or anything, I just like this little filter.

https://youtu.be/UAORCG95f2U

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

I will rack out of the sampling port that I have installed on the side of the conical. Leaving the particulate matter in the fermenter allows it to eventually compact together with time (and while cold crashing), which limits the beer that I would be wasting by dropping the trub, yeast and hops earlier in the process. As long as the sediment stays below the sampling port, after cold crashing which compacts the sediment, I can easily rack everything except the very small amount of beer that is sitting on top of the sediment. the compacted sediment will displace the beer above the sediment, leaving less wasted beer in the end. Having a racking arm in other conicals helps as you can move it around to choose where you want to drain the beer from within the conical. There is limited information on dry hopping freely (without mesh bags) in the fast ferment on here, so I believe this will be a decent method. On top of racking from the port, I am connecting a bouncer inline filter which should catch any hop sediment that I may drain out of the fermenter.

I've tried a number of different things with the Fast Ferment. The way I've found to give me the best results are to ferment my beer, once fermentation is done I close of the valve to the collection ball.

I've battled to many times with yeast and trub sticking in the throat above the collection ball. I also have a sampling port above the throat area. I've found that racking out of the sampling arm makes a whole lot of sense to me. I don't waste much useful beer and my beer is always clean that I'm kegging, I couldn't say the same when I kegged through the throat and out the bottom. I don't like the idea of trying to clean the throat area nearly as much as taking clean beer out of the sampling port.

During this whole time the valve stays closed. You could remove the collection ball or leave it on as it's isolated with the valve.

The next step isn't really necassary, but it's what I do. I've got an addition "sampling valve" up in my head space. When I'm racking to the keg, I hook a spare co2 tank up to this valve, purging the lines first (oh, I do purge my racking line with co2 as well. Then, while opening the racking valve...I coordinate this with cracking co2 regulator for very little flow. All I'm trying to do is displace the head space with fresh co2 rather than sucking in through the airlock, or other spaces. What I look for is moving the airlock to a slightly pressurized condition where the water is slightly shifted. If I open my flow a bit more...my other hand is on the regulator.

Like I said, you certainly don't have to do that last part...but coming out the sampling port makes a lot of sense to me on the Fast Ferments.

 

[Jwin]

I've tried a number of different things with the Fast Ferment. The way I've found to give me the best results are to ferment my beer, once fermentation is done I close of the valve to the collection ball.

I've battled to many times with yeast and trub sticking in the throat above the collection ball. I also have a sampling port above the throat area. I've found that racking out of the sampling arm makes a whole lot of sense to me. I don't waste much useful beer and my beer is always clean that I'm kegging, I couldn't say the same when I kegged through the throat and out the bottom. I don't like the idea of trying to clean the throat area nearly as much as taking clean beer out of the sampling port.

During this whole time the valve stays closed. You could remove the collection ball or leave it on as it's isolated with the valve.

The next step isn't really necassary, but it's what I do. I've got an addition "sampling valve" up in my head space. When I'm racking to the keg, I hook a spare co2 tank up to this valve, purging the lines first (oh, I do purge my racking line with co2 as well. Then, while opening the racking valve...I coordinate this with cracking co2 regulator for very little flow. All I'm trying to do is displace the head space with fresh co2 rather than sucking in through the airlock, or other spaces. What I look for is moving the airlock to a slightly pressurized condition where the water is slightly shifted. If I open my flow a bit more...my other hand is on the regulator.

Like I said, you certainly don't have to do that last part...but coming out the sampling port makes a lot of sense to me on the Fast Ferments.

]

Assuming you purge your keg, you could just feed the gas out of the keg back into the FF and save some co2.
Put a couple psi on the keg and it will purge the beer line for you. Just connect the QD first, then put the hose on the FF.
Same thing I do with my Speidel when I don't pressure transfer (depends on how my back feels that day).

P.s. sexy airlock

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

Thanks JWin!

 

[Brewmegoodbeer]

Assuming you purge your keg, you could just feed the gas out of the keg back into the FF and save some co2.
Put a couple psi on the keg and it will purge the beer line for you. Just connect the QD first, then put the hose on the FF.
Same thing I do with my Speidel when I don't pressure transfer (depends on how my back feels that day).

P.s. sexy airlock

Another great idea! Wow. I am going to do this the next time I rack out of the fermenter into a keg. Thanks! So basically, you put a blanket of CO2 from purging the keg into the fermenter before racking into the keg?