FastFerment conical fermenter??????

[ElmCityWobblyPops]

The main reason I have number one is for yeast harvesting, I have never done this yet but will be starting. Just thinking that cleaning it is the easier it should be.

I just got one for Xmas as well, and I would have to agree to skip #1.

I would just put the ball on, pitch the yeast, let it ferment completely and then remove and clean the ball. Don't see the point in doing it repeatedly. When I collect yeast from a carboy, I just leave about an inch of beer on it, once the rest has been racked off. Swirl, and dispense into clean, sanitized mason jars, trub and all. Any hop trub and beer is going to protect the yeast. No need to go overboard on the cleaning.

 

[PeteNMA]

Yeah, you generally do more damage trying to wash yeast. Just pour the slurry out into a sanitized mason jar, leave about a quarter inch of headroom and stick it in the fridge. You can always step it up in a starter if you feel the need, or use it directly in a couple of weeks.

 

[CTS]

Well, seeing as the top of the fermented is pretty large i think i will sanitize a mesh bag and pour the wort through that first and then skip my first step.

Just checked my final gravity and looks like i have my first stuck fermentation. Its at 1.020 when it should be around 1.014, guess i let it ferment to long at a low temp. Might take my sanitized spoon and stir it up see if i can make it finish, otherwise going to have a slightly sweeter beer i guess.

 

[jbb3]

Well, seeing as the top of the fermented is pretty large i think i will sanitize a mesh bag and pour the wort through that first and then skip my first step.

Just checked my final gravity and looks like i have my first stuck fermentation. Its at 1.020 when it should be around 1.014, guess i let it ferment to long at a low temp. Might take my sanitized spoon and stir it up see if i can make it finish, otherwise going to have a slightly sweeter beer i guess.

Exactly what I do. I use a large funnel and place a sanitized fine mesh bag in the funnel when I drain wort from the BK into the FF.

I will do my first collection ball dump right after primary (5-7 days). Then if needed, another dump after another 3-5 days (but not always needed). Most of the yeast is still in suspension or floating on the top. There will be plenty of yeast to collect in your final collection ball.

 

[jbb3]

...Just checked my final gravity and looks like i have my first stuck fermentation. Its at 1.020 when it should be around 1.014, guess i let it ferment to long at a low temp. Might take my sanitized spoon and stir it up see if i can make it finish, otherwise going to have a slightly sweeter beer i guess.

Probably just need to raise the temp to the top of the range for the yeast strain you're using.

 

[Kampenken]

Hi Guys, a few questions for you as my brother uses a FF and isn't online (yeah, hard to believe!) and now my other brother got one this Christmas (I use a Chronical- also Christmas present!).

In my experience with yeast harvesting, I found trub clogs an issue (in my Chronical) if much past 7 days on first drop. So like you I've filtered going into the fermenter.
1) Do any of you who filter into FF, pull yeast before 2 weeks? If so, when?
2) Does anyone put CO2 in collection ball before reopening valve for next pull? If so, how do you know when it's filled up enough?
3) Have you bottled directly from FF? I understand you knock on the sides to drop trub a day or so early. Then just put in priming sugar and good to go?

Thanks

 

[jbb3]

Hi Guys, a few questions for you as my brother uses a FF and isn't online (yeah, hard to believe!) and now my other brother got one this Christmas (I use a Chronical- also Christmas present!).
In my experience with yeast harvesting, I found trub clogs an issue (in my Chronical) if much past 7 days on first drop. So like you I've filtered going into the fermenter.
Thanks

There is someone not on the internet?!? That is surprising... Sounds like you guys made out well for Christmas!

I've put approximately 15 or so batches through the FF. Below are my methods/experiences.

1) Do any of you who filter into FF, pull yeast before 2 weeks? If so, when?

When draining from the BK into the FF, I use a large funnel with a mesh bag placed in the funnel to provide some filtering of the wort as it enters the FF.

After 5-7 days, if the collection ball is full and there is enough trub so that it is backed up into the conical, I'll change the CB at that time.

You can place a flashlight up against the FF and slide it down from the top of the wort to the bottom of the conical. You'll see a change in how much illumination is seen when/if you hit any backed up trub.

2) Does anyone put CO2 in collection ball before reopening valve for next pull? If so, how do you know when it's filled up enough?

For a CB change at day 5-7, I typically don't fill the CB with CO2. If there is enough trub that requires a second CB change after the 5-7 day change, yes I will fill the CB with CO2. I just give the CB 3 shots of CO2.

3) Have you bottled directly from FF? I understand you knock on the sides to drop trub a day or so early. Then just put in priming sugar and good to go?

Prior to converting to kegging, I would drain from the FF into a bottling bucket. I did not bottle directly from the FF though I've seen some on this thread that have.

Currently I have a house ale in the FF. Care was taken during the mash to ensure clear wort was drained into the BK. That along with the mesh bag filter when draining from the BK into the FF, I have very little trub in the collection ball. This time around, I will not need a CB change at all. I have also had IPA's that required 3 CB changes. And everything in between...

I hope this helps.

 

[Kampenken]

Thanks that's all very helpful!

Yeah, 2014 Christmas myself and the first FF brother cashed in, this year the other one joined conical fermentation.

Yes, I too use a mesh bag to keep the yeast pull cleaner. So you keep the CB open the whole time? I thought that most would keep it closed until ready for the first pull? Good suggestion about the flashlight.

I still bottle, so what is 3 shots of CO2? 1 sec each?

I don't understand no CB change. Maybe you mean you just drop off one CB (all yeast)? That would make sense, as I expect you're not kegging all that yeast!

Thanks again, I'll be sure to pass it along to Brother Dinosaur...

 

[jbb3]

...So you keep the CB open the whole time? I thought that most would keep it closed until ready for the first pull?

I still bottle, so what is 3 shots of CO2? 1 sec each?

I don't understand no CB change. Maybe you mean you just drop off one CB (all yeast)? That would make sense, as I expect you're not kegging all that yeast!

I start with the valve closed. After pitching my yeast, I wait 12-24 hours until activity starts then open the valve for the remainder. Obviously you have to close the valve for intermediate CB change(s) but it's immediately re-opened after the swap.

About 1-2 seconds for each CO2 shot. I'm not overly concerned with making sure the O2 is completely evacuated. Just an additional precaution during secondary.

By no CB change I mean I don't replace a full CB with an empty one then reopen the valve (between primary & secondary). So I won't remove the CB until the end of fermentation (no intermediate change with an empty CB). Whatever is in the CB at the end either gets dumped &/or the yeast harvested.

BTW, no intermediate change of the CB is a rarity. I typically change it at least once between primary & secondary. I guess my trub management from MT to BK to FF was better than usual this time around. Plus it's a simple clean ale with only 2oz of hops.

 

[Wawster]

I've put about 10 batches through my FF now.

1:I didn't bother with the CO2 in the collection ball. There are two schools of thought on this. Some folks feel the oxygen will get into the beer and cause problems. Personally, I've not experienced this. I think the big bubbles, and short time the air is in the beer as it goes through doesn't give it time to oxygenate the beer, but others feel differently. Like I said, I've experienced no staleness or other taste issues with the beer without using any CO2.

2: I also bottle, and I've experimented with bottling from the FF. It can be done, but there are a few issues with it. The priming sugar is the biggest. There's always a bit of sediment that doesn't drop out, no matter if I bang the sides or not. If you bottle directly from the FF, you have to pour in the primer solution, and stir it up. This suspends that remaining sediment, in my experience.It will settle out in the bottle, but I'd prefer it wasn't in there in the first place. The other method is to use fizz drops. I've done this, and it came out ok, but it just didn't feel right. I prefer to drain the FF into a bottling bucket now and bottle from there.

 

[Kampenken]

I start with the valve closed. After pitching my yeast, I wait 12-24 hours until activity starts then open the valve for the remainder. Obviously you have to close the valve for intermediate CB change(s) but it's immediately re-opened after the swap.

About 1-2 seconds for each CO2 shot. I'm not overly concerned with making sure the O2 is completely evacuated. Just an additional precaution during secondary.

By no CB change I mean I don't replace a full CB with an empty one then reopen the valve (between primary & secondary). So I won't remove the CB until the end of fermentation (no intermediate change with an empty CB). Whatever is in the CB at the end either gets dumped &/or the yeast harvested.

BTW, no intermediate change of the CB is a rarity. I typically change it at least once between primary & secondary. I guess my trub management from MT to BK to FF was better than usual this time around. Plus it's a simple clean ale with only 2oz of hops.

Thanks again, hope I don't wear out my welcome with a few more questions!

Why do you open the valve so quickly afterwards? I'd have thought that maybe it was best to keep closed until first pull, even if you open and then let it rest a few hours before a change. I guess I figured the yeast would drop all into the CB (ale yeast) and would that be a negative so far off the beer, and then.... I sit here and think about my Chronical. All the yeast would also drop down past the bottom elbow, never gave it a 2nd thought and it works just fine!

And, is it that the trub settles down first (at the bottom) then the yeast on top (of course some mixed in)? This makes some sense to me, I've pulled off yeast and found a lot of trub, tried to drop the first part and seem to get more yeast afterwards. I now filter into my Chronical and have found a lot less trub (as well as now trying out a hop basket, which I may return and use a dyi hop spider instead).

Thanks again, its great to share experiences here as always, so I appreciate your insight!

 

[Kampenken]

I've put about 10 batches through my FF now.

1:I didn't bother with the CO2 in the collection ball. There are two schools of thought on this. Some folks feel the oxygen will get into the beer and cause problems. Personally, I've not experienced this. I think the big bubbles, and short time the air is in the beer as it goes through doesn't give it time to oxygenate the beer, but others feel differently. Like I said, I've experienced no staleness or other taste issues with the beer without using any CO2.

2: I also bottle, and I've experimented with bottling from the FF. It can be done, but there are a few issues with it. The priming sugar is the biggest. There's always a bit of sediment that doesn't drop out, no matter if I bang the sides or not. If you bottle directly from the FF, you have to pour in the primer solution, and stir it up. This suspends that remaining sediment, in my experience.It will settle out in the bottle, but I'd prefer it wasn't in there in the first place. The other method is to use fizz drops. I've done this, and it came out ok, but it just didn't feel right. I prefer to drain the FF into a bottling bucket now and bottle from there.

Yeah understand that #1 point well, there's always 2 views (or more!) in home brewing. When I started to harvest, I read a lot about washing and then a lot about not. I ended up first making oversized starters and worked from them, worked fine and still do once in awhile, but most are now slurry pitches.

#2, we need an exBeeriment on this one! I've been curious about kegging to avoid all the movement of the beer during bottling, and thought a bit of sediment in the bottle is small price to pay if it improves the final product. I transfer from my Chronical very carefully and stir in priming sugar and fill carefully but always wonder if the same beer in a keg would be different? If it was then I would think adding a racking port to the FF would be ideal for this, as I assume the bottling from that large outlet has its challenges, though I guess those that do would use some sort of reducer to bottle.

Thanks for your input!

 

[jbb3]

Thanks again, hope I don't wear out my welcome with a few more questions!

Why do you open the valve so quickly afterwards? I'd have thought that maybe it was best to keep closed until first pull, even if you open and then let it rest a few hours before a change. I guess I figured the yeast would drop all into the CB (ale yeast) and would that be a negative so far off the beer, and then.... I sit here and think about my Chronical. All the yeast would also drop down past the bottom elbow, never gave it a 2nd thought and it works just fine!

And, is it that the trub settles down first (at the bottom) then the yeast on top (of course some mixed in)? This makes some sense to me, I've pulled off yeast and found a lot of trub, tried to drop the first part and seem to get more yeast afterwards. I now filter into my Chronical and have found a lot less trub (as well as now trying out a hop basket, which I may return and use a dyi hop spider instead).

Thanks again, its great to share experiences here as always, so I appreciate your insight!

The longer you wait to open the valve, the more chance the trub has to compact in the bottom of the conical and create a clog so it won't drop into the CB.
Once the yeast becomes active, it's either in suspension or floating on top. My first few batches in the FF, I used to open the valve immediately. Even though I didn't see any detrimental effects from opening the valve immediately, I decided to wait 12-24 hours and open the valve after the yeast becomes active to give them the best conditions without risking a clogged conical. I have seen others have a clogged conical (mostly from impatience I think) but I have not had to deal with any clogs.

 

[Wawster]

I also haven't seen any clogs, but I leave the valve open from the get-go. Although, one batch, I had to go overseas for a few weeks, and when I got back the ball was as full and compacted as I've ever seen it. The trub/sediment was definitely up in the valve into the conical, but one good empty took care of that - the air bubbles from the empty ball dislodged the sediment and allowed it to go into the ball. Had a few moments of scare, though....

Exbeeriment!! Love it! When I bottled directly from the FF, the 1/2' hose really filled the bottles super-fast - it took quite a bit of finesse and control to do it slowly. I didn't use a reducer. I used a 1/2" hose and a 1/2" bottling tube/spring valve. I don't know if a keg would be different, but I also wonder about the extra handling and movement of the beer in the bottling bucket, even though I too am very careful.

BTW, I've found jbb3's advice to be top notch He aint bad for a 'lanta boy

 

[Kampenken]

I also haven't seen any clogs, but I leave the valve open from the get-go. Although, one batch, I had to go overseas for a few weeks, and when I got back the ball was as full and compacted as I've ever seen it. The trub/sediment was definitely up in the valve into the conical, but one good empty took care of that - the air bubbles from the empty ball dislodged the sediment and allowed it to go into the ball. Had a few moments of scare, though....

Exbeeriment!! Love it! When I bottled directly from the FF, the 1/2' hose really filled the bottles super-fast - it took quite a bit of finesse and control to do it slowly. I didn't use a reducer. I used a 1/2" hose and a 1/2" bottling tube/spring valve. I don't know if a keg would be different, but I also wonder about the extra handling and movement of the beer in the bottling bucket, even though I too am very careful.

BTW, I've found jbb3's advice to be top notch He aint bad for a 'lanta boy

Wawster thanks for your advice and to the 'lanta boy's advice too! Always enjoy sound advice and others thoughts. I've got the answers to my questions, and bottling from the FF may not be the best approach, (esp with a 1/2" filler!) though I may try once from my conical via the racking port- maybe pull off 1/2 into a bottling bucket and bottle 1/2 from the conical. The CB activity makes sense, I wonder if lagering might require a different approach since they're bottom feeders, though none of us have tried a lager yet. I know my brother had a clog from letting the trub sit for about 2 weeks, likely an IPA. He's now filtering on the way into the FF.

Thanks again to both of you, much appreciated

 

[gotbags-10]

Thinking about doing a BIG beer in my fast ferment. One that I plan to take full advantage of secondary fermenting. I'm wondering how long the co2 blanket from the initial ferment will last? Days,weeks? I plan on topping it off with co2 every so often. Just trying to get a feel for how often I should do it. Recipe calls for a 10 day secondary then a 40 day tertiary fermentation at 50 degrees.

 

[jbb3]

... I wonder if lagering might require a different approach since they're bottom feeders, though none of us have tried a lager yet...

I don't brew lagers so I can't comment from experience. But I have seen folks talk about lager yeast needing more "contact" with the wort. Not sure I buy that but please refer back to the first sentence...

 

[jbb3]

Thinking about doing a BIG beer in my fast ferment. One that I plan to take full advantage of secondary fermenting. I'm wondering how long the co2 blanket from the initial ferment will last? Days,weeks? I plan on topping it off with co2 every so often. Just trying to get a feel for how often I should do it. Recipe calls for a 10 day secondary then a 40 day tertiary fermentation at 50 degrees.

I've never done a long term tertiary but I would think you risk more by opening the top, even if it's to add a CO2 shot, then if you just left it alone.

The CO2 blanket folks talk/write about is not as thick and stable as many think. Just the act of opening the top will cause air to mix with the CO2 and may introduce contaminants as well.

The CO2 is not going anywhere if the FF is left sealed and it's not displaced with air from a CB change. I think I would leave the top closed and the FF undisturbed for the duration.

Just my two cents...

 

[Wawster]

+1 with jbb3 on the CO2 blanket. Leave it sit.....

 

[Wawster]

Kampenken...
Soot...might not be the best advice, but it's worked for the 'lanta boy and me so far

 

[abbysdad2006]

Ok so this just happened, I was mounting the brackets onto my new stand and the bolt snapped. Either the pilot hole was too small or not deep enough. Does anyone know the size of the bolt?

View attachment 1454275655250.jpg

 

[NateBrew]

Yeah, mine snapped off too after it was all installed. I had the thing filled with wort and the head just popped off one of the top bolts.

 

[MrKelly]

Ok so this just happened, I was mounting the brackets onto my new stand and the bolt snapped. Either the pilot hole was too small or not deep enough. Does anyone know the size of the bolt?

If the socket you used was a 7/16" then it was a 1/4" lag screw and needs at least a 1/8" pilot hole. Maybe one step bigger would be better. Grip the drill bit at it's end because those diameter bits are not normally very long.

If you used a 1/2" socket, then it is a 5/16" lag and needs a 7/32" pilot.

I think there might have been both at one time or another, not sure.

 

[abbysdad2006]

If the socket you used was a 7/16" then it was a 1/4" lag screw and needs at least a 1/8" pilot hole. Maybe one step bigger would be better. Grip the drill bit at it's end because those diameter bits are not normally very long.

If you used a 1/2" socket, then it is a 5/16" lag and needs a 7/32" pilot.

I think there might have been both at one time or another, not sure.

Thank you. I appreciate the help.

 

[Dade0]

That is exactly what happen to me. Buy good screws before install. Well the part about how a bracket came off the wall due to a screw in the top hole breaking .

 

[Menhir]

I drilled an additional hole in each bracket and added an extra screw just in case.

 

[abbysdad2006]

Ya I got new screws drilled a better pilot hole. Finished it last night, kinda just need to put wheels on it to move it around when full.

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

Wheels r good

 

[abbysdad2006]

Wheels r good

Ya, I've got lawn mower wheels I need to put on.

 

[signpost]

Well, I finally set up my FastFerment. I didn't have a stand and didn't have a place to mount it to the wall. Finally got a stand and set it up.

It's filled with a 6.5 gallon batch of my altered version of the Ol' Bitter Bastard from the recipe section. Other than a lack of airlock activity likely due to the lid not sealing thoroughly (maybe I didn't tighten it enough, maybe the gasket is lame), everything is looking good so far, but I have a couple questions. I apologize if these have been asked and answered earlier in the thread.

1) The thermowell - the instructions said to be careful to not over tighten, so you don't strip the threads. I was pretty careful. I got a few drops of leakage. No biggie, but there is some gummy dried up wort on the side of my fermenter. What are the chances I can give it another 1/4 turn or so and fix that issue?

2) The collection ball - are people generally leaving the valve to the collection ball open right away from yeast pitching? Or are people leaving it closed to let the yeast have more surface contact with the beer until a ways through primary?