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FastFerment conical fermenter??????

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Thanks! Ya i realized afterwards that tape on the union fitting threads was wrong, It's off now. Only problem I have is the thermowell leaks ever so little. Not enough to actually drip but still has a little water around the fitting.

Problem I have with brewing in December is the cold weather and use of a chiller. Even though we had record breaking weather the past week, that seems to be coming to an end. Have to find an alternative way to chill the wort.

What i did with my thermowell, which did leak ever so slightly, is to stretch a keg post o-ring over it. Seems to work, as it has not leaked for about 10 brews so far.

Barney
 
What i did with my thermowell, which did leak ever so slightly, is to stretch a keg post o-ring over it. Seems to work, as it has not leaked for about 10 brews so far.

Barney

Great idea! Will have to give it a try. Do you clean the thermowell after every brew? The fact that it leaks just a little bit tells me it's probably a good place for contamination to happen.
 
Great idea! Will have to give it a try. Do you clean the thermowell after every brew? The fact that it leaks just a little bit tells me it's probably a good place for contamination to happen.

By clean, if you mean pull the thermowell out every time, no i do not. It is too scary tightening it up every time into the plastic threads. Too scared I might strip em. But i do thoroughly wash after every batch with oxy clean in my home made carboy washer. Havent had an infection yet (knock on wood)

Barney
 
How are you guys controlling ferm temps with this thing? Don't think it will fit in my chest freezer.

Thanks.
 
By clean, if you mean pull the thermowell out every time, no i do not. It is too scary tightening it up every time into the plastic threads. Too scared I might strip em. But i do thoroughly wash after every batch with oxy clean in my home made carboy washer. Havent had an infection yet (knock on wood)

Barney

I was going to try your o-ring trick but figured I will try more Teflon tape and that seemed to work. So far no leaks.

As for temp control I built this yesterday and have a winter ale In it as we speak. Going to rotate frozen 2l every day or so and see how it works.

View attachment 1450492907340.jpg

View attachment 1450492918513.jpg
 
Here's my temp control solution. It'll hold 2 FF. The chamber build link is in my signature below if interested.

7 - Fully assembled.jpg

8 - Control panel - painted.jpg
 
I was going to try your o-ring trick but figured I will try more Teflon tape and that seemed to work. So far no leaks.

As for temp control I built this yesterday and have a winter ale In it as we speak. Going to rotate frozen 2l every day or so and see how it works.

You have the right idea. Just need enough nylon tape and make sure to wrap the tape in a clockwise direction to make a seal.

I like your mini chamber build. You might want to paint your fiber board bottom to seal it from liquids as there will be spills. Did you leave enough headroom for an airlock?
 
You have the right idea. Just need enough nylon tape and make sure to wrap the tape in a clockwise direction to make a seal.

I like your mini chamber build. You might want to paint your fiber board bottom to seal it from liquids as there will be spills. Did you leave enough headroom for an airlock?

Ya probably will do that, it already had some liquid spilled on it. The plan is to be able to take it apart once the main fermentation is done so the yeast can clean up any off flavours.

I cut a small hole in the top cardboard for the airlock. I know this isn't the best for keeping the heat out but I like to see bubbles! :)

So far so good on the temp as its at 16.1 C or just under 61 F. Visual fermentation hasn't started yet though.
 
Ya probably will do that, it already had some liquid spilled on it. The plan is to be able to take it apart once the main fermentation is done so the yeast can clean up any off flavours.

I cut a small hole in the top cardboard for the airlock. I know this isn't the best for keeping the heat out but I like to see bubbles! :)

So far so good on the temp as its at 16.1 C or just under 61 F. Visual fermentation hasn't started yet though.

You could always put an upside down glass over the airlock... ;)
 
You could always put an upside down glass over the airlock... ;)

Haha, yup totally could but seeing as the temp is at 15.1c (59f) when i got home from work i don't think the air getting in is making a difference. Still hasn't started to ferment, might take the ball and dump it back in the top tomorrow night if still nothing showing.
 
One thing to be wary of is the airlock bubbling as a sign of fermentation. When I used mine for the first time I thought things weren't fermenting but it turned out that I just didn't have a good seal between the screw on lid and the body of the fermentor. Consequently, the CO2 would go out the leak rather than the airlock, so no bubbles. When I opened it up to check it, there was a nice thick krausen on top of the wort and it was going along nicely.
 
Well last night i replaced that 3 piece airlock (hate those) for the one piece. This morning the liquid was pushed down in the airlock and krauzen was starting to form. I have been doing this long enough to know that 24 plus hours of not starting to ferment is not a worry but I changed so much this past brew day, new fermenter, made a water profile, fermenting cold. Looks all good now! Starting to ferment at 60f
 
Well last night i replaced that 3 piece airlock (hate those) for the one piece. This morning the liquid was pushed down in the airlock and krauzen was starting to form. I have been doing this long enough to know that 24 plus hours of not starting to ferment is not a worry but I changed so much this past brew day, new fermenter, made a water profile, fermenting cold. Looks all good now! Starting to ferment at 60f

A little off topic but what yeast strain are you using? 60 deg is a bit low for most ale strains.
 
A little off topic but what yeast strain are you using? 60 deg is a bit low for most ale strains.

I'm using Safale S-04, should be more then in the temp range.

Fermentation range = 53.6 to 77 deg
Ideal range = 59 to 68 deg
 
I'm using Safale S-04, should be more then in the temp range.

Fermentation range = 53.6 to 77 deg
Ideal range = 59 to 68 deg

Good deal. S04 does have a wide range but give it plenty of time at the bottom of the range, &/or consider ramping up the temp some after the first 5 days to help it finish.
 
Good deal. S04 does have a wide range but give it plenty of time at the bottom of the range, &/or consider ramping up the temp some after the first 5 days to help it finish.

Will do! Plan is to take the "box" off after a few days and let it warm up. Have to see how it actually pans out.
 
Yup, I also have had success with Safale S04 at the bottom end of the range, but as jbb3 said, give it plenty of time.
I also got fooled by the not-so-spectacular-seal on the top of the FF. I've learned to disregard it, even with the silicone gasket seal. I've depended on hydrometer measurements.
 
One thing to be wary of is the airlock bubbling as a sign of fermentation. When I used mine for the first time I thought things weren't fermenting but it turned out that I just didn't have a good seal between the screw on lid and the body of the fermentor. Consequently, the CO2 would go out the leak rather than the airlock, so no bubbles.

I purchased another O-ring and stack the two. Even then, the last brew wasn't bubbling until I adjusted the thing. Now I can see it chugging along merrily.
I know checking the SG is the correct way to find when fermentation has stopped. At least now, I have a visiul indication of progress.
 
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Hey people, I just got one of these for xmas, can u give me a few bullet points on how to get this ready for br day, like the threads and stuff like that. There us just so much info, thanks.
 
Hey there abbysdad, There's a lot of posts in this thread that talk about it, but, here's thew basics in a nutshell:

1: Carefully sand the top to make sure it's flat. Use a block of wood and about 150 grit.
2: Carefully clear the mold residue from the top and bottom threads. I used a really sharp Leatherman knife.
3: Wrap the bottom threads in teflon tape - go with the threads.
4: Wrap the Thermowell in teflon tape. Be very careful putting this in - don't tighten to much - it ca strip.
5. I wrapped the ball threads in teflon tape before attaching it to the coupler- not everyone does.
6. The O-ring at the bottom of the union valve is all-important. And it can come off during cleaning. Pay particular attention to this or you'll lose it.
7. The silicone seal for the FF lid isn't always a good seal. Don't count on it. But I have teflon tape on the lid threads, and have found that in conjunction with the silicon gasket, I can get a consistently good seal.
8: I tend to dump the ball after about a week. I've found that there is sediment that sticks to the sides of the FF...for me, banging on it causes an internal landslide that helps with this.

That's the basics I can think of. Please chime in everyone with anything I've forgotten! :)
 
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I did nothing but wrap threads, with the supplied Teflon tape, at the thermal well and bottom ball valve connection. Just make sure you wrap properly. Three to four turns.

I purchased another silicone ring for the top from adventures in home brewing and get a very nice seal.
The o-ring for the ball valve is a bit of a pita, (like all ball valves) be careful.

I only have 6 brews in my conical so, by no means an expert.
I dump the collection ball after 7 days or so. Wash rinse and sanitize.
I do it again at about 10 days and once more a couple days before kegging.

I read that others are worried about the air moving through the fermenting wort when putting the empty ball back on and opening the valve. I don't worry about it. I don't feel the large bubbles are dissipating enough to cause harm on their way through. Also the large bubbles help dislodge trub and send it down to the collection ball.

I also read that some people don't open their collection ball until after their fermentation. I have had no issues with meeting my final OG numbers when leaving the collection ball open during fermentation.
 
Make sure to clean everything very well!! lots of manufacturing oils left on the valves. Also fill with water and let it sit for a few days to make sure no leaks, especially from the thermal well. Took me a few try's before it would not leak.

Oh! And I have noticed that i will have to start putting in 5.5g in order to get 5g out.
 
Don't sand the top until you verify you need to. If the top most surface ring is noticeably smoother than the rest of the fermenter and very flat, then you you have a newer version that won't need it.
 
Oh! And I have noticed that i will have to start putting in 5.5g in order to get 5g out.[/QUOTE said:
CTS - good point. I figure on 2 ball empties, and that really lowers the volume. It puts me at 5.5 Gal also.
 
CTS - good point. I figure on 2 ball empties, and that really lowers the volume. It puts me at 5.5 Gal also.

Thanks! The more i think about my process i could be up to 4 but 3 ball empties for sure.

1. After putting wort in let everything settle out in ball. Clean and replace.

2. Once primary is done empty ball and replace. Depending on the yeast used this might have to be done twice.

3. After yeast is gone let remaining trub settle out to the bottom before racking to keg.

Found in the fast fastbrewing website the collection ball holds 700 ml of fluid.
So at 3 dumps that's 2100 ml or .55 gallons


Maybe I'm doing it to much though, could probably skip the 2nd yeast dump and just leave the remaining yeast in there with the trub.
 
Thanks! The more i think about my process i could be up to 4 but 3 ball empties for sure.

1. After putting wort in let everything settle out in ball. Clean and replace.

2. Once primary is done empty ball and replace. Depending on the yeast used this might have to be done twice.

3. After yeast is gone let remaining trub settle out to the bottom before racking to keg.

Found in the fast fastbrewing website the collection ball holds 700 ml of fluid.
So at 3 dumps that's 2100 ml or .55 gallons

Maybe I'm doing it to much though, could probably skip the 2nd yeast dump and just leave the remaining yeast in there with the trub.

I would skip #1. Everything else looks good. My opinion; Some folks get too hung up on trub removal before primary even starts. Trub reduction and clarity will come later.
 
I would skip #1. Everything else looks good. My opinion; Some folks get too hung up on trub removal before primary even starts. Trub reduction and clarity will come later.

The main reason I have number one is for yeast harvesting, I have never done this yet but will be starting. Just thinking that cleaning it is the easier it should be.
 
I would skip #1. Everything else looks good. My opinion; Some folks get too hung up on trub removal before primary even starts. Trub reduction and clarity will come later.

I do this to make my yeast collection cleaner.
 
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