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FastFerment conical fermenter??????

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I agree with the comments that this thing is very difficult to hang up when full. I like the idea of transferring to a keg, oxygenating and pumping into the fermenter with co2.

The lid is a weak point. I had to screw it on so tight, second time I used it I cracked the lid, anybody else have this issue? They want $15 for a new cap, kind of surprised there is no sort of warranty. I am going to try to repair the cracked one and put in a thicker gasket as someone else suggested, then I won't need to thread it so tight.

I didn't need the thermowell so I threaded in a small valve for sampling instead.

By the way, the valve fills with gunk and has to be fully disassembled to clean it. You won't see the gunk until you take it apart. After messing with it I realized that the valve handle comes off and is also a wrench to disassemble the valve. A few instructions such as this would have made life easier.

A couple of other things: There is a bit of a mess when you close the valve and remove the collection ball due to the volume between the valve and ball.
Don't forget to loosen the airlock after you screw on an empty ball or you will suck in the fluid in the airlock.
 
A couple of other things: There is a bit of a mess when you close the valve and remove the collection ball due to the volume between the valve and ball.
Don't forget to loosen the airlock after you screw on an empty ball or you will suck in the fluid in the airlock.

I haven't changed the collection ball yet but have a drip pan ready. Thanks for the comments!

Did you experience suck back when opening the valve?

I didn't think that would be an issue since the wort in the fermenter and the air in the collection ball are really just trading places. But I'm using a one piece bubbler air lock for cold crashing so that won't be an issue in my case.
 
...
BTW, I considered doing what others suggested as far as letting the wort sit and settle for a day then empty the collection ball prior to pitching the yeast. Then I wondered if maybe the fermenting action of the yeast is part of what helps the solids fall out and collect in the collection ball?

As you can see in the photo, solids are setting on the bottom of the cone but they are not getting down into the collection ball.

I'm sure we'll all figure out the best method of using this fermenter with time and comparing notes... :mug:

I've not gotten mine loaded up for the first run yet, but has anyone considered using a hose connection and draining trub into a bucket, particularly when you have as much as jbb3 does in the pic he posted? That looks like it would take forever (after it's disturbed with each cycle) to drain into the ball, and would take numerous dumps.

I'm thinking trub management before the fermenter would be a good idea to avoid this much.
 
I filled up my fastfeent with a ~3.5 gallon batch and pitched a yeast starter about 50 hours ago.

My first issue was that, like many others, the screw top was not on tight enough. After a few hours I could smell the fermentation and figured I had a leak. I tightened the top as hard as I could and saw plenty of bubbles. Mystery solved.

My next issue was that yeast wasn't dropping into the collection ball. I just took off the ball and found what I think is mostly wort. I dumped it and reattached it. When I opened the valve, things dumped in and filled the collection ball and I'm hoping that broke the clog and it will all settle in nicely now.

Has anyone else had the clogging issue? Any tips to fix it? I tried shaking the whole thing but I couldn't get it loose. I think someone mentioned poking it with a clothes hanger. That sounds reasonable.

Attached is a picture of right before I disconnected the collection ball. The lighting makes it hard to see, but that's all beer/wort in the ball. In the V you can see three layers. Maybe someone who knows more than me can identify them. From top to bottom: beer, yeast, trub?

I'm seeing the potential in this thing though! Not giving up on it yet.

image.jpg
 
I've not gotten mine loaded up for the first run yet, but has anyone considered using a hose connection and draining trub into a bucket, particularly when you have as much as jbb3 does in the pic he posted? That looks like it would take forever (after it's disturbed with each cycle) to drain into the ball, and would take numerous dumps.



I'm thinking trub management before the fermenter would be a good idea to avoid this much.


I think from I recall in the past, the best way to use conicals stainless or the fast ferment is to let it sit for 4-8 hours after adding the wort then drain the trub and add the yeast. I would also open the valve to let the yeast settle into the collection ball.

I still haven't gotten to use mine yet, but I think with our collective efforts we will get this fermenter dialed in!!!


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
So I just ran off my batch from the fast fermenter into a keg and had a couple notes for people.

1) When I took off the ball I didn't notice that the o-ring that is on the union valve stuck to the ball side of the union and when I put the hose on it leaked as I ran it out.

I dumped my collection ball for the first time today and the same thing happened to me! The o-ring seal from the valve assembly stuck to the coupler on the collection ball...

I know you only lost a little from the spill so it wasn't a disaster or anything. But by posting your experience, I noticed the o-ring and put it back in it's rightful place prior to re-attaching the ball.

Thanks for posting!! :mug:

FYI - My collection ball was about half full of solids. I wanted to go ahead and dump it so I could have the bubbles go up through the cone when I re-attach the new ball and hopefully help additional solids fall out in the collection ball.

I decanted as much of the clear liquid off the ball as I could and poured it back into the fermenter.

Is that a good thing to do? Who knows?? Trying to figure out the best method...
 
So how many batches will that little O2 tank oxygenate?

You only need to use it for about a minute so probably a few batches; not sure though since I don't use one. For my aeration I just use an aquarium pump with hose and a diffusor stone from Walmart (this pump to be exact http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tetra-Whisper-Air-Pump-10-30-Fish-Aquatic-Pets/10291813 )cost me less than $20 for everything.

After the wort is cooled I'll siphon about half of it through a strainer into my bucket; will turn on the pump after I get about a gallon in. After I have about half or so into the bucket will then just dump the rest through the strainer. Put the lid on loosely to keep anything from falling in, but not to pinch the air line, and then go clean up while the pump aerates the wort for me. After about 30 minutes pull the air line out and pitch the yeast.
 
You only need to use it for about a minute so probably a few batches; not sure though since I don't use one. For my aeration I just use an aquarium pump with hose and a diffusor stone from Walmart (this pump to be exact http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tetra-Whisper-Air-Pump-10-30-Fish-Aquatic-Pets/10291813 )cost me less than $20 for everything.

After the wort is cooled I'll siphon about half of it through a strainer into my bucket; will turn on the pump after I get about a gallon in. After I have about half or so into the bucket will then just dump the rest through the strainer. Put the lid on loosely to keep anything from falling in, but not to pinch the air line, and then go clean up while the pump aerates the wort for me. After about 30 minutes pull the air line out and pitch the yeast.

A trip to Wally World and $20 is certainly more my speed. I'm spending a considerable amount on this obsession errr... hobby as it is. My wife has been very supportive up to this point but's she's beginning to get that look on her face... ;)
 
So how many batches will that little O2 tank oxygenate?

It really depends on how much O2 you release per second... If you turn the valve wide open, 2-3 batches. If you throttle it back to 25% output - you can get many more obviously...

As for using the aquarium pump - they will certainly work but you must run them considerably longer to get the same % of oxygen into the wort..

The compressed O2 is sterilized as well. An assumption on my part but would seem logical when you consider how they separate O2 from nitrogen & argon when recovering it from the atmosphere.
 
Yeah the O2 only need a minute or two and the aquarium pump between 30-45 minutes, but I usually start it up while transferring and just let it go while I do my clean-up so doesn't really add any time to my brew days.
 
Yeah the O2 only need a minute or two and the aquarium pump between 30-45 minutes, but I usually start it up while transferring and just let it go while I do my clean-up so doesn't really add any time to my brew days.

Yup... Make sense...

Clean up sucks.... LOL
 
I think from I recall in the past, the best way to use conicals stainless or the fast ferment is to let it sit for 4-8 hours after adding the wort then drain the trub and add the yeast. I would also open the valve to let the yeast settle into the collection ball.



Could anyone see a problem in waiting longer, like possibly 24 hours, before draining the trub and adding the yeast? Also, would you want to hold off on oxygenating until right before you add the yeast?
 
I think from I recall in the past, the best way to use conicals stainless or the fast ferment is to let it sit for 4-8 hours after adding the wort then drain the trub and add the yeast. I would also open the valve to let the yeast settle into the collection ball.

Could anyone see a problem in waiting longer, like possibly 24 hours, before draining the trub and adding the yeast? Also, would you want to hold off on oxygenating until right before you add the yeast?
 
Good information on the use of the fermenter.

I just received mine yesterday. Unboxed this evening and it is well built but they need to work on the finish around the top. Mine had a ridge around the inside of the opening that was a much as 1/8" above what should be the seal surface. The mold separation line also extended on to the seal surface. I understand why people have had issues with leaking.

So I got to work on it and used a utility knife to trim everything flush but you could still catch a fingernail on it. I took some emery cloth and started working on the areas and was able to smooth things out. I attached the valve and thermal well, plugged the hole in the lid by putting a wood dowel in the grommet hole and filled it with water. No leaks even with the unit mostly upside down and the valve open.

Too bad I won't have a chance to ferment anything in it for a few weeks.

I hope they start selling replacement parts such as the thicker seal.
 
So I got to work on it and used a utility knife to trim everything flush but you could still catch a fingernail on it. I took some emery cloth and started working on the areas and was able to smooth things out. I attached the valve and thermal well, plugged the hole in the lid by putting a wood dowel in the grommet hole and filled it with water. No leaks even with the unit mostly upside down and the valve open.

Yeah it does take some work to prepare it and it sounds like you've done that. Were you able to get your top to seal without teflon tape?

I've had a batch fermenting since Sunday and so far so good. But for me, the jury is still out on how effective the collection ball will be in removing trub and ending up with very little sediment to deal with prior to bottling. Collecting yeast may be a bonus down the road but my primary reason for buying this thing is to better deal with sediment removal and avoid racking. Racking suck...
 
Yeah it does take some work to prepare it and it sounds like you've done that. Were you able to get your top to seal without teflon tape?

I've had a batch fermenting since Sunday and so far so good. But for me, the jury is still out on how effective the collection ball will be in removing trub and ending up with very little sediment to deal with prior to bottling. Collecting yeast may be a bonus down the road but my primary reason for buying this thing is to better deal with sediment removal and avoid racking. Racking suck...

Yes it sealed fine after making sure the mating surface was smooth.

Next up:

- stand to fit my fermentation fridge.
- Right angle fitting for a blow off tube for fridge clearance. Going to increase the size of the hole in the lid. Fit a spare SS bulkhead fitting and el I have to gain 2-3 inches clearance.

Someday I might build a fermentation chamber but for now I don't think have the head room to have a ball in place and and airlock in place. I usually just attach a tube and leave it in a container of sanitizer until I rack out of the primary anyway.
 
Could anyone see a problem in waiting longer, like possibly 24 hours, before draining the trub and adding the yeast? Also, would you want to hold off on oxygenating until right before you add the yeast?

I think you could do this as long as your sanitation was excellent, and you were keeping it fairly cool. When I had mine sitting for a while it was at 50f. That said, I have had batches that sat for 5 days before I decided the yeast were just dead and then repitched and things ended up fine.

Definitely wait until pitching time to aerate. You don't want to give any fuel to any wild yeast that got in there.
 
Could anyone see a problem in waiting longer, like possibly 24 hours, before draining the trub and adding the yeast? Also, would you want to hold off on oxygenating until right before you add the yeast?

I had a batch from national hombrewers day sit 24 hrs and the first educated palate that tried it called it out exactly. Your mileage may vary.
 
Hopefully the pic is clear. This gap on both sides speaks volumes about seal with foam ring. About .035 on each side. Counter is dead flat.

1415319604240.jpg
 
Anybody think there is a way to add gasket material to this some how? Was planning on using mine this weekend and noticed my seal is off too
 
Anybody think there is a way to add gasket material to this some how? Was planning on using mine this weekend and noticed my seal is off too

Right now the "work around" is to use teflon tape on the top threads as well. Long term, I definitely want a thicker gasket to deal with the "out of flat" top.
 
Right now the "work around" is to use teflon tape on the top threads as well. Long term, I definitely want a thicker gasket to deal with the "out of flat" top.

Simple long term fix is to take light sand paper and sand the top to make it flat. I did it, took maybe a minute and it sealed perfectly, airlock started bubbling like crazy
 
Simple long term fix is to take light sand paper and sand the top to make it flat. I did it, took maybe a minute and it sealed perfectly, airlock started bubbling like crazy

Yours must have been much closer to flat then mine. Look at the photo posted above by Jeliii. See the gap he has, mine was larger then that on both sides.

I did tape a sheet of sand paper to the table saw top and ran the fermenter back and forth for as long as I could stand it. If I sanded mine flat, I would end up sanding off some of the threads on the two high sides.

Glad you were able to make yours work!

Mine, I need a thick freakin gasket. One that will compress on the high sides and fill the gaps on the low sides when it's tightened down.
 
Yours must have been much closer to flat then mine. Look at the photo posted above by Jeliii. See the gap he has, mine was larger then that on both sides.

I did tape a sheet of sand paper to the table saw top and ran the fermenter back and forth for as long as I could stand it. If I sanded mine flat, I would end up sanding off some of the threads on the two high sides.

Glad you were able to make yours work!

Mine, I need a thick freakin gasket. One that will compress on the high sides and fill the gaps on the low sides when it's tightened down.

Would some type of self adhered weather stripping work? maybe the foam?

I admit - far from sanitary..
 
I was looking into a sheet of 1/4" food grade gasket and just using the original gasket as a template
 
Would some type of self adhered weather stripping work? maybe the foam?

I admit - far from sanitary..

I'm thinking maybe a medium density rubber or silicon.

Whatever the material is they used in the supplied gasket might work for a while if it were about 3 times as thick. Thought it may not stand up to the wear and tear of tightening and loosening the of the top very long.

The RastRack/FastFerment folks said they would look at providing a replacement but who knows how long that will take. It sounds like they are still trying to ramp up their accessories store/delivery.
 
Yours must have been much closer to flat then mine. Look at the photo posted above by Jeliii. See the gap he has, mine was larger then that on both sides.

I did tape a sheet of sand paper to the table saw top and ran the fermenter back and forth for as long as I could stand it. If I sanded mine flat, I would end up sanding off some of the threads on the two high sides.

Glad you were able to make yours work!

Mine, I need a thick freakin gasket. One that will compress on the high sides and fill the gaps on the low sides when it's tightened down.

I had to use 80 grit paper in a sanding block, about 15 min on each side, and there was still a little gap left. Probably got 75% of it.
 
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