Fastest beer grain to glass?

[berninga87]

You're all idiots. Every single one of you. I'm the only one that actually knows how to brew around here, and none of your experiences are worth a rat's a$$, so you can all stop speculating.

In all seriousness, though, it's amazing how people will share their limited experience as gospel truth. I know I'm going out on a limb here, and many of you will be highly offended by this, but.... Different people have different experiences. I know, I know, that's blasphemy. You know what else? Different people have different tastes. Oh god, I'm probably going to be lynched for that one.

Remember: the OP simply asked for a quick turn around recipe. He didn't ask for your opinion on whether a beer should be rushed or not. If you want to give your opinion and some advice that's fine, but this thread is just idiotic. You people are all up in arms over when is the best time to drink a beer. COME ON! How about the best time to drink it is WHEN EVER THE HELL YOU WANT TO.

Seriously.

Still X2

 

[berninga87]

Hey Zymergist! Love you man! But you are dead wrong on this one.

The OP asked (see above) what is the FASTEST a beer can be brewed? No recipe requested. Just how fast.....and in the Beginning Brewing Forum.

What kind of site would this be, if the only answers he got were:

10 days

35 days

14 days

etc. ?

It would be uninformative and boring as hell.

If somebody posts something like this in the "NOOB AREA" and doesn't get some real thoughts, opinions, and debate, then I will turn in my membership.

Thoughts, opinions, and debate are what can make forums like this great. How they are presented is what makes the difference between beneficial and not worth the hassle.

 

[TheZymurgist]

Hey Zymergist! Love you man! But you are dead wrong on this one.

The OP asked (see above) what is the FASTEST a beer can be brewed? No recipe requested. Just how fast.....and in the Beginning Brewing Forum.

What kind of site would this be, if the only answers he got were:

10 days

35 days

14 days

etc. ?


It would be uninformative and boring as hell.

If somebody posts something like this in the "NOOB AREA" and doesn't get some real thoughts, opinions, and debate, then I will turn in my membership.

You're right, his question was vague, and I read into it. I'm not saying we shouldn't debate. I am saying we ought to be careful about when and where the debate should be had. The OP hasn't responded to this thread at all. I can only assume they've been turned off by the bickering.

I do think this subject is a matter of opinion, and not worth debating since people's experience and tastes differ so greatly. But that's just my opinion.

Cheezy, I agree with your argument in this thread (but, again, it's only an opinion that we happen to share,) but I also disagree with your method of communicating it. Besides, won't this lesson be learned eventually with time and experience? I remember being over-eager when I first started in this hobby, but now I find myself on the other extreme. I tend to let things sit longer than is needed. Granted, I'm not making wheats or other beers that have a short shelf life. I just think it might be more effective to say something like "It can be done, but here's why it's better not to" rather than "Don't do, you have no idea what you're doing, noob." Especially on something as subjective as this.

 

[dogpoundbrewery]

I light abv pale ale fermented at 68-69 Fahrenheit with Nottingham will be done in 3 days cold crash primary for 2 days keg force carb enjoy on day 6

 

[TheZymurgist]

Good contribution, Diane.

 

[boydster]

Good contribution, Diane.

I just giggled a little.

Personally, I don't like Notty in the high 60's, but 05 seems to do really well in the 67-68 range as far as being a fast fermenter with few off flavors. I made a 4.5% blonde ale with 05 and some Cascade that I bottled after 7 days. If I kegged it, it would have easily been ready inside of 10 days. It may have been ready to package sooner, but I tend to brew and bottle on the weekends.

 

[cheezydemon3]

Yeah, we will just keep disagreeing. I think a WHOLE lot was learned by a lot of people in this thread, which wouldn't have happened without some direct language and some offense taken.

Glad I could help.

 

[Thedutchtouch]

Well, this thread certainly took off, I was waiting for high krausen to pass before I replied. My question was purposefully vague as it was more of a theoretical inquiry than planned brewing practice. It is good to know that there are beers that can be brewed quickly, or what types of beers can mask green, which is why this was a 'timeframe of grain to glass' discussion, not 'why is having a pipeline good'. I have just finished my keezer, and will be able to have 4 kegs on tap eventually(only installed 2 taps for now) so I will be developing my pipeline over the next few months, however have been caught in a situation before where a batch was contaminated or otherwise unable to be drank (hasn't happened to me yet but something like the broken carboy stories) so it would be nice to be able to brew a quick replacement batch if planning a party or some other scenario where buying a few cases of nascar beer is the alternative.

 

[cheezydemon3]

Well, this thread certainly took off, I was waiting for high krausen to pass before I replied. My question was purposefully vague as it was more of a theoretical inquiry than planned brewing practice. It is good to know that there are beers that can be brewed quickly, or what types of beers can mask green, which is why this was a 'timeframe of grain to glass' discussion, not 'why is having a pipeline good'. I have just finished my keezer, and will be able to have 4 kegs on tap eventually(only installed 2 taps for now) so I will be developing my pipeline over the next few months, however have been caught in a situation before where a batch was contaminated or otherwise unable to be drank (hasn't happened to me yet but something like the broken carboy stories) so it would be nice to be able to brew a quick replacement batch if planning a party or some other scenario where buying a few cases of nascar beer is the alternative.

Buckets are cheap, and if you have space, the flip side is "How long can a beer go from grain to glass". It is far better to have buckets full of beer that is conditioning and ready to go into a keg, than to brew a quickie spur of the moment.

That said, **** HAPPENS I have 5 full kegs/1 empty keg, ingredients for 2 beers sitting unused, and 3 empty buckets at the moment

Thanks for posting the question.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

I regularly do a Mild with an OG of 1.039, a very light hop profile and a relative high FG (for the OG) in 7 days on a regular basis. It is a session beer and I have not filled my pipeline yet.

My pitching rates are excellent but my temp control is only OK, and I use S04 which will blast you with fruitiness if the temp is a bit high. Guess what...love the beer. I has never really "improved" with aging for the 6-pack of every batch that I age.

I have a Rye Porter that is similar.

 

[AnOldUR]

I have 5 full kegs/1 empty keg, ingredients for 2 beers sitting unused, and 3 empty buckets at the moment

Well, that can only mean two things. One, you're not drinking enough. Two . . . . come to think of it, there is no two. You're not drinking enough!

 

[Flipadelphia]

I mostly brew beers around the 1045-1070 range and I leave them in primary for about 3 weeks. Could I keg quicker? I guess, but I am not in a hurry. Plus I rarely take FG readings, so that ensures it's plenty done.

 

[Ilan34]

Reading this thread is depressing because it obviously doesn't apply to people who bottle. Lol. K egging is definitely not in my foreseeable future. I typically do go 6-7 weeks from grain to glass.

Primary for 21 days. Cold crash for 3 days. Bottle for at least 3 weeks. Cold condition for 3 days. And drink. All told, it's almost 7 weeks grain to glass. I've cut that time line by a week for wheat beers or IPAs.

I do understand the concept of racking as soon as the beer is done. However, even if active fermentation is done in two days, isn't it often the case that the yeast continues to chew down on the last remaining 10% or so? Also, when people are racking to keg on day 6 or whatever, are they taking 3 gravity readings, or does it not matter when kegging to get a stable final gravity?

 

[IL1kebeer]

I do understand the concept of racking as soon as the beer is done. However, even if active fermentation is done in two days, isn't it often the case that the yeast continues to chew down on the last remaining 10% or so?

Active fermentation is more like 3-5 days for most ales with a healthy fermentation. I typically give it a couple if days after that for the yeast to clean up. I know that they are done when the beer is clear. I always taste it before I rack to make sure that there aren't any off flavors. I check FG as well.

Also, when people are racking to keg on day 6 or whatever, are they taking 3 gravity readings, or does it not matter when kegging to get a stable final gravity?

When I create a new recipe I take multiple readings to get a feel for how that beer ferments and to also ensure that it's done before I rack. I keep those beers in the primary for longer than my regulars.

If its a recipe that I've been brewing then I pretty know much know when it's done, but I still take a sample before racking to make sure it hit FG and to taste.

Reading this thread is depressing because it obviously doesn't apply to people who bottle.

Yeah, it takes longer to carbonate, but that doesn't stop ones that bottle from being able to conduct a healthy fermentation, which means the possibility for a faster turn around (if they so choose).

 

[Ilan34]

Well, the next recipe on deck is the Centennial Blonde. This will be my fourth batch using precise temperature control and fifth using pure O2. I've already been doing yeast starters with a stir plate since the summer. So maybe with the light grain bill, I'll try bottling after 8-10 days, depending upon the FG.

 

[IL1kebeer]

Well, the next recipe on deck is the Centennial Blonde. This will be my fourth batch using precise temperature control and fifth using pure O2. I've already been doing yeast starters with a stir plate since the summer. So maybe with the light grain bill, I'll try bottling after 8-10 days, depending upon the FG.

You look like you are will on your way in terms of fermentation control.

Learn the signs of a finished fermentation and let the beer tell you when it's done, not the other way around. If the yeast are cleared, it has hit FG, and there are no off flavors (diacetyl, acetaldehyde) then you are good.

 

[IL1kebeer]

No one asked for it, but here it is anyway. 11 days grain to glass 7.3% ABV 1.072OG American Stout. Must use proper pitch rate, yeast nutrient, temperature control of wort (not ambient), and pure O2. Frickin delicious.

American Stout
American Stout (13 E)
Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 5.03 gal
Boil Size: 6.50 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
End of Boil Vol: 5.75 gal
Vol into Fermenter: 5.25 gal
Final Bottling Vol: 5.03 gal
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage
Date: 12/01/13
Equipment: Biab 8 Gallon Kettle 10 Gallon Cooler
Efficiency: 80.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 80.0 %

Prepare for Brewing
Create a yeast starter (266 billion cells)
Clean and Prepare Brewing Equipment
Total Water Needed: 7.39 gal

Water Prep
7.43 gal Corona, CA Water 1 -
4.00 g Baking Soda (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 -
1.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3 -

Mash Ingredients
11 lbs 4.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (1.8 SRM) Grain 4 83.3 %
12.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 5 5.6 %
12.0 oz Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) Grain 6 5.6 %
12.0 oz Roasted Barley (500.0 SRM) Grain 7 5.6 %

Mash Steps
Mash In Add 4.22 gal of water at 168.9 F
Mash at 153.0 F 60 min
Batch sparge with 2 steps (Drain mash tun , 3.17gal) of 185.0 F water
Add water to achieve boil volume of 6.50 gal
Estimated pre-boil gravity is 1.061 SG

Boil Ingredients
1.20 oz Magnum [12.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 62.3 IBUs
0.50 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining 9 -
1 Capsule White Labs Servomyces (Boil 5.0 Mins) Nutrient
2.00 oz Centennial [9.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 12.9 IBUs
Estimated Post Boil Vol: 5.75 gal and Est Post Boil Gravity: 1.072 SG
Vol into Fermenter: 5.25 gal

Cool and Transfer Wort
Cool wort to fermentation temperature
Transfer wort to fermenter
Run pure O2 with Morebeer Regulator and disposable O2 tank for 90 seconds
Pitch Yeast and Measure Gravity and Volume

Fermentation
12/01/13 - Primary Fermentation (14.00 days at 67.0 F ending at 71.0 F) - CONTROL THE TEMPERATURE OF WORT, NOT AMBIENT

Bottle/Keg
Date Bottled/Kegged: 12/09/13 - Carbonation: Keg with 10.74 PSI
Age beer for 3.00 days at 38.0 F
12/12/13 - Drink and enjoy!


View attachment 165945

Update on this 11 day grain to glass American Stout.

Just won a Gold in a fairly large homebrew competition. Fast turn arounds are possible


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[Hello]

Update on this 11 day grain to glass American Stout.

Just won a Gold in a fairly large homebrew competition. Fast turn arounds are possible


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

Awesome! Congrats!

 

[BansheeRider]

Update on this 11 day grain to glass American Stout.

Just won a Gold in a fairly large homebrew competition. Fast turn arounds are possible


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

You get good carbonation after three days at 10psi? What temp is your beer while on the gas?

 

[IL1kebeer]

You get good carbonation after three days at 10psi? What temp is your beer while on the gas?

Kept this one at 30psi for 3 days. I only put my serving pressure in my beer software regardless on how I decide to carb it.


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