FAQ: Aluminum Pots for Boil Kettles?

[z987k]

here's what it looks like after boiling water in a aluminum pot for a hour to build a layer ...its not rust.

well not rust in the sense that isn't not ferric oxide, but yes it is aluminum oxide.

I'm a noob, but I'm curious about what is the purpose of putting a valve at the base of the boiling kettle? Does this just make it easier to empty into a fermenting bucket or carboy?

yes that's exactly it.

 

[Charlie182]

Hey guys. Check this site out.

Home - Pimp My Kettle

and check out the kettles on Ebay.

eBay Seller: fantasticpimpmykettle: Art from Dealers Resellers, Art items on eBay.com

 

[Willie3]

Aluminum has such a stigma associated with it that it is hard to overcome. I have a friend that has been brewing since the early 90's and is set on the fact that aluminum is extremely bad for your health that he will never consider using it in brewing and never drink any homebrew that was made with it.

I know that the facts on aluminum have been challenged and stated but there are those people that will never trust what is learned to be true. I strictly use SS and have considered using aluminum since it is so inexpensive in comparison, but have not bitten the bullet. I am in the process of building a sculpture and have two keggles (needing some welding for ports) that I plan to use. I like the fact that I can buy a 60qt AL pot for cheap and never have to worry about boil amt, but have no idea how to weld so either way I will need to pay for welding and since I already have those keggles I mines as well go with them.

How would you get someone who is set in their ways to trust the reports written on AL? It is impossible to change the strips on a tiger!

- WW

 

[slnies]

Education eliminates ignorance, but it does not quell bull headed pride. S.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Education eliminates ignorance, but it does not quell bull headed pride. S.

slnies, this above reply made all this thread reading worth the time it took, thanks.

The reasons I prefer ss vs aluminum is ss being less heat conductive and should be better at reducing the mash temperature loss as fast as a aluminum MLT.
On boil kettles a ss keg with its bottom thickness of the same as a aluminum kettle the ss must have a slight advantage at reducing a chance of scorching provided the same the same BTU heating is applied again due to the lower conductivity of ss vs alumimum. Call me cheap, HLT, MLT and boil kettles will all start out as ss 15.5 gallon kegs. JMO's and ideas.

 

[MikeInCtown]

here's what it looks like after boiling water in a aluminum pot for a hour to build a layer ...its not rust.

OK, I'm really confused. I have a pile of aluminum pots at work that I'm going to be using for brewing (also buying a 40 quart for dedicated use and insertion of valve) and none of the pots have that brown look to them. They've been used for years and all look like plain old aluminum pots. I even cleaned one really good (a 32 quart pot) and let water boil all afternoon and it looks the same now as it did when I started. These have all had acidic stuff in them like tomato bases.

BTW, is a 40 quart pot plenty good enough to do full boil batches for 5 gallons? I want to go big enough but not so big that I price myself out of one and not so big that I can't get it on the stove as I don't have a dedicated turkey fryer burner yet.

 

[slnies]

MikeinCtown,
Do your pots all look grey? Or are they bright? I will go out on a limb and guess that they are grey or metalic but not quit shinny. If this is the case then your pots are just fine. S.

 

[BarleyWater]

BTW, is a 40 quart pot plenty good enough to do full boil batches for 5 gallons? I want to go big enough but not so big that I price myself out of one and not so big that I can't get it on the stove as I don't have a dedicated turkey fryer burner yet.

That's a pretty big kettle for a stove top, same size as mine. It works fine for 5 gallon batches, I can boil 8 gallons without too much boilover worry, but you do have to keep an eye out. I would not be so sure that a stove could get something like that up to a rolling boil.

 

[MikeInCtown]

It's a big commercial stove. I had no problem bringing 6 gallons of tap water to a boil in less than an hour when I tested with a large pot last time. Up until I used that aluminum pot, I was splitting my full boil batch between two small, cheap, stainless 20 quart pots.

 

[FlyGuy]

OK, I'm really confused. I have a pile of aluminum pots at work that I'm going to be using for brewing (also buying a 40 quart for dedicated use and insertion of valve) and none of the pots have that brown look to them. They've been used for years and all look like plain old aluminum pots. I even cleaned one really good (a 32 quart pot) and let water boil all afternoon and it looks the same now as it did when I started. These have all had acidic stuff in them like tomato bases.

If they are that well used, then the oxide layer is already well developed on your pots. No need to boil water in them before brewing -- that only applies to new pots that have never been used before.

 

[Brett3rThanU]

So I brewed yesterday using my new 30 quart aluminum pot and was wondering what effect the beer would have if a good oxide layer hadn't been developed? I put my pot in the oven at 350F for 15 minutes or so, but it didn't look any different coming out. When I was done brewing, I noticed the darker look to it inside where the wort was boiling. That darker part must be the oxide layer. Since this wasn't there after the oven, I assume it didn't build up an oxide layer. What's the worst that's going to happen to my brew?

 

[BarleyWater]

So I brewed yesterday using my new 30 quart aluminum pot and was wondering what effect the beer would have if a good oxide layer hadn't been developed? I put my pot in the oven at 350F for 15 minutes or so, but it didn't look any different coming out. When I was done brewing, I noticed the darker look to it inside where the wort was boiling. That darker part must be the oxide layer. Since this wasn't there after the oven, I assume it didn't build up an oxide layer. What's the worst that's going to happen to my brew?

You MAY end up with a slight metalic flavor, but that probably won't happen. Yeasts tends to have an affinity for metals, so any metals in solution in the wort will probably be used up as yeast nutrient. It would take quite a bit to show through in the final product. At least now you have the oxide layer built up so you don't need to worry next time.

 

[schweaty]

'There is more aluminum in a common antacid tablet than would be present in a batch of beer made in an aluminum pot.'

That's directly from How to Brew by John Palmer.

 

[SILVER13ACK]

If you haven't heard it yet, you gotta checkout the brewing networks podcast on Metals.

The Brewing Network.com - Brew Strong: Brew Strong: 09-29-08 Metals that Affect Your Beer

It also might be a good idea for the mods to put this link in the original post of this thread.

 

[NikolausXX]

I have brewed 3 4 batches of beer in an aluminum turkey fryer pot. I have had no problems with off taste or problems other than boil overs, which were minimal. Good to have a spray bottle on hand to spray the foam or it will foam over.

 

[TerapinChef]

I'm thinking of going with aluminum for my HLT but Im a bit worried about the fact that I'd most likely have way more stuff on this pot than any others. (Sightglass and thermometer on top of ball valve) and I haven't any experience with drilling/welding/weldless fittings on aluminum. Any input on this? It would be easier for me to go weldless, just so you know...

 

[Bitterdrinker]

Just a little question concerning aluminum. I am expandind to all grain, and I have read that using aluminum pots will taint the flavors of the brew. If I were to buy a couple turkey fryers to heat my strike and sparge water, would it have the same affect. Those pots are aluminum and it seems a rather inexpensive alternative.

Thank
Bitter

 

[RCCOLA]

Using aluminum is fine a long as it is properly prepared before you brew in it.It needs an oxidation layer built up to seal the pores in it before you brew.To do it clean it with your preferred brew wash then boil water in it for about an hour at a higher liquid level than you intend to brew with it at.You may want to drain and boil once more just to be safe.This will oxidize the pot (dark layer)and seal it.After this don't use acid based cleaners on it or you will remove the oxidation layer.I've been brewing in my alum. turkey friar pot for awhile now and my beer has no off flavors from it.I have also heard of baking your pot in the oven to oxidize it.Hope this eases your mind.Most people who say not to ever use alum. haven't properly researched it.

 

[slnies]

Well, I can see no harm in trying the weldless stuff first, the aluminum will work a lot easier than SS so all you need to drill holes is a hole saw and an arbor. If the weldless doesn't work out, take it to a welder and have the fittings TIG'ed in. My other suggestion would be to get all of your fittings for the weldless application in aluminum, this way if you need to weld you do not have to buy more fittings, the other plus, is no galvanic reaction due to electrolysis. S.

I'm thinking of going with aluminum for my HLT but Im a bit worried about the fact that I'd most likely have way more stuff on this pot than any others. (Sightglass and thermometer on top of ball valve) and I haven't any experience with drilling/welding/weldless fittings on aluminum. Any input on this? It would be easier for me to go weldless, just so you know...

 

[Grinder12000]

NOT that I'm a member of the search police but there is a pretty active thread in the Beginner forum right now.

 

[joe6pack]

So the oxide layer on the aluminum pot... does that stay put unless you use an acidic cleaner? I guess what I'm asking is do you have to boil water in it each time, or just the once? It seems to be a waste of water and propane/electricity if you have to do that each time.

My dad has a huge old aluminum army stock pot that I think I might have to snag so I can do full boils.

 

[Yooper]

So the oxide layer on the aluminum pot... does that stay put unless you use an acidic cleaner? I guess what I'm asking is do you have to boil water in it each time, or just the once? It seems to be a waste of water and propane/electricity if you have to do that each time.

My dad has a huge old aluminum army stock pot that I think I might have to snag so I can do full boils.

Once you have it, it should stay on. If you use an acidic cleaner, or scrub it off, you'll have to redo it. But I've never needed to with mine.

 

[joe6pack]

Excellent. Thanks Yooper Brew.

 

[BSBD]

Would there be any benefit to anodizing an aluminum pot?

 

[hcarter]

FWIW, I used my deep fryer turkey pot the other day, no off flavors or smells and everything is fermenting fine.

 

[Nightbiker]

I do full-boils in an aluminum turkey friar pot -has a SS valve on it (weldless bulkhead). This pot has served well, has no off-flavors or other issues that Im aware of. The only thing I've done to it is to put the valve in it.
Its serving in this capacity until I get around to converting a sanke keg into a keggle -and even then I'll probably still use it for 5gal boils (6gal to 5g finished product). This beastie holds 10+ gallons. Once the keggle is built, I'll probably turn the aluminum pot into the HLT.

 

[madewithchicken]

If you did not find enough info on this page there is another great one on the subject.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f45/aluminum-safe-92231/index5.html

 

[parkke]

Just to clarify, oxide layers form on most metals at varying rates. Aluminum forms a thin protective oxide layer very quickly. New pots already have an oxide layer, but benefit from boiling or heating in an oven in order to grow the layer a little thicker and close the oxide pores.

Aluminum oxide chemically identical to sapphire and is one of the hardest known substances. It is used extensively as abrasive on sandpaper. Anodizing an aluminum pot would grow the oxide layer thicker, but I believe it is unnecessary and costly unless you have the setup to do it yourself.

Also, I can't really see an issue with food tastes/smells/whatever getting passed to the wort since the oxide layer is pretty much impermeable.

Feel free to add/correct anything I missed.

 

[0202]

This seems like an appropriate place to tack this question:

I have a 20qt aluminum pot. Built up a dark grey oxide layer by boiling water
for an hour and a half up to above the handle bolts. On my first brew day, after
transferring to a carboy I realized that the wort completely stripped the Oxide
layer from my pot.

Haven't heard any comments on that.

I intend on using it again, just wondering why the Oxide layer is now gone. I
boiled 3 gallons with 3.3lb DME and 3lb LME, 3oz glacier/vangard for 60min.

I also stirred often.

 

[7Enigma]

This seems like an appropriate place to tack this question:

I have a 20qt aluminum pot. Built up a dark grey oxide layer by boiling water
for an hour and a half up to above the handle bolts. On my first brew day, after
transferring to a carboy I realized that the wort completely stripped the Oxide
layer from my pot.

Haven't heard any comments on that.

I intend on using it again, just wondering why the Oxide layer is now gone. I
boiled 3 gallons with 3.3lb DME and 3lb LME, 3oz glacier/vangard for 60min.

I also stirred often.

I've found pretty much the same thing. The area below the liquid level (where the wort is) is more shiny than the area just above the level. I've taken the opinion that it doesn't matter. Just use the pot like any other pot and be happy. You will not get a flavor from the aluminum and there is no health risk as other posters have mentioned aluminum is regularly used in antacids in significantly higher levels with no side effects.